Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to France means entering a country where religious history is omnipresent – cathedrals, synagogues, mosques, Buddhist or Hindu temples – while living in a fiercely secular Republic. For an expatriate, this combination can be confusing: how to visit a church without making a faux pas, talk (or avoid talking) about religion with colleagues, understand Ramadan at the office or a church wedding, decode religious public holidays in an officially neutral state?
This guide offers a concrete overview of religious practices in France, their implications in daily life, and useful cultural reflexes for expatriates. It is not a theology course or a judgment on beliefs, but rather aims to provide practical keys to navigate this complex landscape with tact.
Secularism: The Essential Framework for Understanding Religion in France
It is impossible to understand religious practices in France without grasping the logic of secularism (laïcité). Legally, the Republic is described as “indivisible, secular, democratic, and social.” In practical terms, this means the State neither recognizes nor funds any religion, aims to be neutral towards all religions, and guarantees both freedom of belief and freedom from belief.
The 1905 law established the separation of Church and State. It prohibits public funding for new places of worship built after this date, while guaranteeing freedom of conscience subject to public order. Parish churches built before 1905 are owned by municipalities or the State but are made available free of charge to religious communities.
The principle of secularism is based on a simple idea: in public spaces, everyone is first and foremost a citizen, without highlighting a specific religious affiliation, while faith belongs to the private sphere. This does not prohibit visible religious practice (processions, discreet symbols, places of worship) but places it within a precise legal framework, which is particularly strict in schools and in the public service.
For an expatriate, two practical points are key. First, one must not confuse the abundance of visible religious symbols (like Gothic cathedrals) with current political influence of religions; these buildings are often perceived primarily as historical monuments. Second, it’s important to understand that the relationship with religion is generally more discreet than elsewhere: for many French people, beliefs are a private matter and not a spontaneous topic of conversation at work or with new acquaintances.
The French Religious Landscape Today
Behind the secular facade, France remains a country shaped by multiple religious traditions. Christianity is still the most significant group, but it is no longer a majority among all age groups, and the number of people declaring no religion is increasing significantly. Islam is the second religion, followed by Judaism and Buddhism, with smaller groups of Hindus, Sikhs, or new religious movements.
Public institutions do not record religion or ethnic origin in general censuses.
General Breakdown of Religious Affiliations
The table below summarizes several major recent surveys focusing on adults, simplifying the orders of magnitude.
| Religious Group / Belief | Range of Recent Estimates (Adult Population) |
|---|---|
| Catholics | Approximately 25–40% depending on source |
| Other Christians (Protestants, Orthodox, etc.) | Approximately 5–9% |
| Muslims | Approximately 5–11% |
| Jews | Around 0.5–1% |
| Buddhists | Approximately 0.5–1% |
| Other Religions (Hindus, Sikhs, etc.) | Approximately 1% or less |
| No religion / Unaffiliated | Approximately 40–50% |
The trends are clear: decline of Catholicism, increase in people declaring no religion, moderate but continuous growth of Islam and Evangelical Protestantism, limited numbers but symbolically strong presence of Judaism and Buddhism.
For an expatriate, this means it is quite common to have in the same office colleagues who identify as “non-practicing” Catholics, observant Muslims, avowed atheists, Protestants, “sympathizer” Buddhists, or those completely indifferent to the religious question.
Religious Practice: Often Low Observance Among Adherents
It is useful to distinguish between declared affiliation and practice. In France, the vast majority of people who call themselves Catholic attend Mass only rarely, sometimes only for major holidays or family events (weddings, baptisms, funerals).
Surveys reveal that weekly religious practice is a minority among all faith groups. However, it remains more frequent among Muslims and Jews than among Catholics.
| Group | Share Declaring Regular Practice (Worship, Communal Prayer) |
|---|---|
| Catholics | Approximately 8% |
| Other Christians | A little over 20% |
| Muslims | A little over 20% (mosque at least weekly) |
| Jews | Approximately one third |
| Buddhists | A little over 20% |
Conversely, many French people describe themselves as “non-practicing” while still observing certain traditions: Christmas dinner, sharing the king cake on Epiphany, Easter egg hunts, or visiting the cemetery on All Saints’ Day, more out of family custom or cultural attachment than religious faith.
Visiting Churches and Cathedrals: Dress Codes and Behavior
In practice, the most frequent religious experience for an expatriate in France will be visiting churches, basilicas, or cathedrals, especially in big cities and tourist sites. Even if France does not enforce a dress code as strict as some churches in Italy or Spain, a few implicit rules are worth knowing.
Attire: Flexibility, But Decency Expected
There is no nationwide formal dress code enforced at the entrance of Catholic churches. In Paris particularly, entry is generally unrestricted, and it is rare for a visitor to be turned away for their attire.
The norm is rather based on an expectation of “appropriate attire” for a place of worship. For a weekday tourist visit, jeans, sneakers, plain t-shirts, or even knee-length shorts generally pose no problem. However, for a Sunday Mass or a ceremony (wedding, baptism, funeral), French people tend to dress more carefully, out of respect as well as social habit.
In some traditional abbeys like Sénanque in Provence, it is necessary to cover shoulders and knees. Bring a scarf or shawl. Men should remove their caps or hats upon entering churches as a sign of respect.
What is clearly inappropriate, however, includes beachwear (swimsuit, bikini top, very low-cut tank tops), very tight or transparent clothing, short shorts, t-shirts with offensive slogans or images. Even if no one would physically eject you, you would attract disapproving looks.
Behavior Inside: Priority to Silence and Reverence
In French churches, whether packed with tourists or nearly empty, the expected attitude is discretion. Visitors are asked to speak softly, not laugh loudly, not run, and above all to respect moments of prayer.
Mobile phones should be at least on silent mode, no calls or ringtones; snacks and drinks stay outside, and smoking is of course prohibited. It is also considered particularly inappropriate to wander around taking photos just centimeters away from people who are deep in prayer, confession, or receiving communion.
When a Mass is in progress, casual visitors are accepted but should sit down quietly to observe or pray, not wander around as on a tourist visit. Only baptized Catholics may receive communion; other participants should remain seated or standing quietly at that moment, which is perfectly acceptable.
Photography: Tolerated But Regulated
Photography policies vary from one building to another. The use of flash is very often prohibited, both for the conservation of artworks and because it strongly disrupts prayer, especially during services. Tripods and selfie sticks are regularly banned.
In some places, photos are allowed outside of services, but visitors are asked to be discreet, not to block passageways, or to stand between the altar and the faithful. Other religious monuments, partially transformed into museums—like the deconsecrated Sainte-Chapelle in Paris—function more as heritage sites: photography is widely tolerated, but the atmosphere is less liturgical.
This is the minimum amount, in euros, that the faithful often leave to light a votive candle in French Catholic churches.
Special Case of Notre-Dame de Paris
Notre-Dame illustrates well the French duality between a state monument and a place of worship. The building belongs to the State, which is responsible for its restoration and security, but the cathedral remains a place of Mass, confession, and prayer.
The management asks visitors to adopt a “respectful attitude in both behavior and attire”. There is no list of prohibited clothing, but bags are checked at the entrance; suitcases and large luggage are refused, as are weapons, dangerous objects, alcohol, drugs, food items, or non-medical assistance animals. Separate lines may be organized for people explicitly coming for a service, with reserved seating.
Services are mainly in French and may include moments of choral or organ music that strongly impact visitors, believers or not. It happens that tourists enter and take photos during a Mass; even if this behavior is common, it is still preferable to refrain from photographing during the liturgy or to do so with great discretion.
Understanding the Calendar: Public Holidays and Religious Festivals
For an expatriate, religious festivals have a very concrete dimension first and foremost: offices closed, schools stopped, shops with reduced hours. France has eleven national public holidays, a significant portion of which are of Christian origin. However, many are now celebrated more as seasonal markers, family moments, or rites of remembrance than acts of faith.
Main Public Holidays with a Religious Dimension
The following table summarizes the major holidays with a religious flavor that are among the national public holidays, along with their meaning and some common contemporary practices.
| Holiday (Public Holiday) | Religious Origin | Contemporary Practices and Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|
| Easter Monday | Resurrection of Christ | Mass, Easter egg hunt for children, family meal |
| Ascension (Thursday) | Ascension of Christ | Services, long weekend, holiday departures |
| Pentecost Monday | Descent of the Holy Spirit upon the apostles | Mass, sometimes a “day of solidarity” for employees |
| Assumption (August 15) | Assumption of Mary | Marian processions, pilgrimages (notably Lourdes) |
| All Saints’ Day (November 1) | Feast of All Saints and the deceased | Laying flowers at the cemetery, chrysanthemums on graves |
| Christmas (December 25) | Birth of Christ | Christmas Eve dinner, midnight Mass, gifts, Christmas tree, nativity scene |
In some regions (Alsace-Moselle), two additional public holidays remain: Good Friday and December 26 (St. Stephen’s Day), a legacy of former concordat systems.
Celebrations with a religious character rooted in popular culture, though not nationally observed holidays.
Celebrated with the traditional king cake, shared among family or friends.
A day for making and eating crêpes, a widely followed culinary tradition.
Carnival day, marked by costumes, parades, and pastries like beignets.
Celebrated with bonfires (Feux de la Saint-Jean) during the summer solstice.
Practical Impact for an Expatriate’s Daily Life
Public holidays generally mean the closure of government offices, banks, and many local shops, although supermarkets and restaurants in tourist areas may be open. Transport operates on a “Sunday service” schedule, with reduced frequency.
It is advisable to plan shopping ahead for holidays like Christmas, Easter, All Saints’ Day, or the Assumption, especially in small towns. Indeed, when a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, it often creates a “bridge” and a long weekend, encouraging many French people to travel and potentially affecting shop availability.
Note that the major festivals of other religions – such as Eid al-Fitr or Yom Kippur – are not national public holidays, but permission for absence may be granted individually to students and civil servants who observe them.
Religion and Professional Life: What to Know
One point that surprises many expatriates is the degree of reserve expected around religion in the public sector. In the civil service, neutrality is the rule: a state employee must not display their religious beliefs in the performance of their duties, either through speech or through conspicuous symbols.
In the private sector, the implementation of a religious neutrality clause in company rules has been possible since 2016, but it must be justified by the nature of the position and applied in a non-discriminatory manner. In practice, many companies tolerate discreet religious symbols (small cross, Star of David, modest headscarf), provided they do not disrupt the service’s operation and are not accompanied by proselytizing.
Students in public higher education are, however, free to express their beliefs – the principle of secularism applying mainly to the institutional framework and teaching staff. In public middle and high schools, a 2004 law prohibits “conspicuous” religious symbols for students, a notion that has sparked intense debate, particularly around the Islamic headscarf or the Sikh turban.
For an expatriate employee, the rule of caution is to avoid spontaneously bringing up religion with colleagues, especially at the beginning, and to favor conversations about culture, food, current events, or leisure. Religion is often placed in the same category as politics or salary: possible topics, but to be handled with care and only when the relationship is well-established.
Catholic Practices: Between Heritage, Pilgrimages, and Parish Life
Even if regular Catholic practice has declined sharply, the imprint of Catholicism remains visible. The great cathedrals – Chartres, Reims, Notre-Dame de Paris, Lyon’s Fourvière – are as much places of liturgy as they are national symbols. Pilgrimages continue to attract crowds, believers or not, to sanctuaries like Lourdes, Lisieux, La Salette, or Le Puy-en-Velay.
Several French cities maintain public traditions of a religious or historical character. These include the Marian procession on August 15 in Lourdes, festivals in honor of Saint Thérèse in Lisieux, the ascent to the Black Madonna in Le Puy-en-Velay, and the Festival of Lights (Fête des Lumières) in Lyon. The latter, born in the 19th century from a tribute to the Virgin Mary, has transformed into a major annual light festival while retaining its origins.
For a Catholic expatriate, integration into a local parish is possible everywhere, even if the average age of regular churchgoers is sometimes high. In large cities, there are also international communities, Masses in English or other languages, and student chaplaincies.
Protestantism: Huguenots, Reformed Churches, and Evangelicals
France has a troubled Protestant history, marked by the 16th-century Wars of Religion, the Edict of Nantes and its revocation, persecutions, and the exile of the Huguenots. Today, Protestants represent a few percent of the population, with a geography still influenced by this past: strong presence in Alsace, the Cévennes, around Nîmes or La Rochelle.
The Protestant Federation of France brings together nearly one thousand six hundred spiritual leaders.
For English-speaking expatriates, international Protestant communities exist in many cities: Anglican chaplaincies, international evangelical churches, bilingual parishes, particularly in Paris, Lyon, Lille, Bordeaux, Caen, the Paris region, and several tourist areas. Practice there is often more informal in terms of attire and musical style than in traditional Catholic parishes.
Judaism: An Ancient and Structuring Presence
France is home to the largest Jewish community in Europe and the third largest in the world. The Jewish presence, attested since antiquity, has been marked by periods of expulsion, emancipation, antisemitism, the Holocaust, and successive reconstructions. Today, the majority of French Jews live in and around Paris, but significant communities also exist in Lyon, Marseille, Strasbourg, Nice, Bordeaux, and Alsace.
In Paris, the Marais district – particularly the Pletzl around Rue des Rosiers – remains a historic center, with synagogues, kosher restaurants, bakeries, and Jewish bookstores. Several large synagogues – such as the Synagogue de la Victoire, the Synagogue des Tournelles, or Notre-Dame de Nazareth – reflect the diversity of rites (Ashkenazi, Sephardic, Liberal, Masorti).
For a Jewish expatriate in France, community structures (synagogues, schools, associations) are numerous and varied. However, a high level of security is in effect: synagogues are generally not freely accessible to the public without prior contact, due to the need to prevent antisemitic acts.
For non-Jews, the best way to approach this heritage is to visit museums, participate in heritage days or the European Day of Jewish Culture, frequent the bookstores and restaurants of the Marais or other neighborhoods, and get informed through specialized guided tours.
Islam: The Country’s Second Religion, Between Visibility and Controversy
Islam is the second religion present in France. Most followers are of North African, Turkish, or sub-Saharan African origin, with a Sunni majority. There are an estimated several thousand mosques and prayer rooms across the country, some very modest, others large-scale, like the Grand Mosque of Paris.
Practice varies, but a significant proportion report observing Ramadan, regularly participating in Friday prayers, or certain festivals like Eid. The wearing of the headscarf, on the rise in recent years, remains the subject of recurrent public debates, as does the place of Islam in public space or the training of imams.
For a non-Muslim expatriate, it is useful to know that the practice of Islam by colleagues is often discreet and adapts to the secular framework of work. Observant individuals organize themselves to pray without disrupting their activity, adapt their leave for festivals, and may indicate they are fasting during Ramadan. It is then appreciated to show respectful curiosity and consideration, such as avoiding insisting on consuming alcohol together during this period.
Not all major mosques are open to visitors, but some organize guided tours or open days, notably during heritage days or interfaith events. Here too, discretion and respect for local instructions (decent attire, removing shoes in the prayer hall, silence) are expected.
Buddhism and Hinduism: Visible Minorities in the Urban Landscape
Buddhism represents a small minority numerically but holds an important place in the French imagination, notably through meditation, Zen, yoga, or travel literature. The country has several hundred centers, ranging from large rural monasteries to modest urban meditation halls. Figures like Alexandra David-Néel or Thich Nhat Hanh have helped spread these practices.
In Paris, the diversity of Buddhism is accessible through places like the Grande Pagode in the Bois de Vincennes (headquarters of the Buddhist Union of France) and the Kagyu-Dzong temple, as well as through the Asian art collections of the Guimet and Cernuschi museums. Most teachings are offered in French, sometimes with English translation, and are open to all, believers or simply curious.
Hinduism is even more of a minority, concentrated around Tamil and Indian communities, but its public manifestations – like the Ganesh Chaturthi processions in Paris – have become well-known events. Hindu temples exist in the Paris region and in some overseas territories (Réunion, French Guiana, Guadeloupe), where the population of Indian origin has maintained practices sometimes blending Hindu rites and Catholic customs.
For an expatriate, participating as an observer in a Hindu procession or visiting a temple open to the public can be an enriching way to grasp the French religious plurality, provided the specific codes are respected (removing shoes, appropriate attire, dietary rules in community dining spaces).
Conversations About Religion: What’s Done, What’s Less Common
Socially, religion is considered a sensitive subject. Many French people, even believers, consider it impolite to directly ask questions like “What religion are you?” or “Do you believe in God?”, especially shortly after meeting. Such questions can be perceived as intrusive, even suspicious, in a context where neutrality is valued.
It is not forbidden to broach the subject of religion, but approaching it through culture (history, holiday symbols, food traditions) is more natural and common than talking about personal faith. Polarized debates are frequent in academic or media circles, while deeper spiritual discussions generally remain the preserve of close circles.
For a practicing expatriate, the best advice is often to let questions come rather than prompt them, and to adapt the tone depending on the interlocutor. Many non-believing French people associate faith with something very private, even marginal, while religious minorities (observant Muslims, engaged Protestants, practicing Jews) may on the contrary be very open to discussion, particularly about comparing dietary practices, holidays, and foundational texts.
Approaching Places of Worship: Some Practical Guidelines
In most cases, visitors are welcome in French places of worship, provided they respect the sacred character for the faithful. The basic attitude – decent attire, low voice, phone off, no food – remains the same whether in churches, synagogues, mosques, or temples.
Access to places of worship differs according to religious tradition: Catholic churches are generally open during the day; synagogues often require prior contact for security reasons; mosques may be closed to non-Muslims outside prayer times; Buddhist or Hindu centers are generally open to all according to posted hours.
A simple reflex is to check information online (official website, community page, opening hours, dress code instructions), and, in case of doubt, to ask politely on site if it is possible to visit and how far one can go. In France, politeness – a clear “hello”, a “please”, a “thank you” – is almost always the best passport, including in a religious context.
For an expatriate, France may seem paradoxical: deeply attached to the separation of State and religion, yet traversed by Christian holidays, Marian processions, historic synagogues, frequented mosques, Buddhist pagodas, and Hindu temples. The key to finding one’s way is to integrate three ideas.
First, secularism does not mean the absence of religion, but the neutrality of public institutions and freedom of conscience. The State does not bless, but it protects – at least in theory – all beliefs, as long as they respect public order.
Principle of Secularism in France
Second, religious practice is mostly discreet. Being a believer is not something spontaneously proclaimed at dinners, in open-plan offices, or on public transport. This is a stylistic difference compared to other countries where the display of faith may be common.
Finally, there is strong intra-religious diversity. Under the label “Catholic,” you will find the cultural Catholic who never sets foot in a church, the weekly churchgoer, the pilgrim; similarly, “French Islam” covers very varied sensibilities, from the non-practicing Muslim to the devout observer, just as Protestantism ranges from well-established historical churches to rapidly expanding evangelical communities.
By keeping these nuances in mind, observing local customs in places of worship, and respecting the French reserve regarding matters of personal conviction, an expatriate can not only avoid faux pas, but also discover a central aspect of contemporary French culture: how a country steeped in religiosity has chosen to politically organize the coexistence of beliefs, and how, on a daily basis, the French navigate this permanent tension between faith, tradition, and secularism.
A 62-year-old retiree, with a financial estate exceeding one million euros well structured in Europe, wanted to repatriate his tax residency to France to benefit from favorable regimes for returning non-resident retirees, secure his civil inheritance situation (French law), and stay close to his family. Allocated budget: 10,000 euros for full support (tax advice, administrative formalities, relocation, and estate structuring), without forced sale of assets.
After analyzing several options (remaining abroad, non-resident status, moving to a neighboring country), the chosen strategy was to target settling in metropolitan France in a region with moderate local taxation and a lower cost of living than Paris (e.g., West or Southwest, up to ~30% cheaper), while benefiting from French legal stability and tax treaties. The mission included: pre-relocation tax audit (exit tax, latent capital gains, treaties), choice of tax regime (income tax, social contributions, potential schemes like furnished rentals as a professional activity), relocation of the primary residence, affiliation with the French Health Insurance, reopening/repatriation of banking relationships, plan for (re)establishing French tax ties (household, center of economic interests), coordination with notary/lawyer and inheritance optimization (gifts, change of matrimonial property regime, life insurance).
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
