Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Discovering UK Gastronomy when you move there is no longer just about randomly trying fish and chips. The country is experiencing a genuine culinary renaissance: reinvention of classics, explosion of artisanal products, and some of the most dynamic street food and market scenes in the world. For an expat, eating well becomes a very concrete way to understand the local culture, build connections… and feel at home.
This guide offers a path to discovering the UK’s food scene at your own pace. It covers classics like the village pub, Sunday roast, afternoon tea with scones and crumpets, as well as specialties such as pie and mash. It also includes tips for shopping like a local and explores London markets and British cheeses. The goal is to give you solid reference points, without needing to try everything at once.
The Pub, Beating Heart of Social Life and Gateway to Local Cuisine
The pub is not just a bar: it’s often described as the village “living room”, a second home open to all. Historically, the “public house” is a place of warmth, shelter, food, and companionship, a function that dates back, in its current form, nearly 2,000 years. If you’ve never been in a pub, some authors go so far as to say you haven’t really seen the country.
It is estimated there are around 45,000 to 50,000 pubs in the UK, from the south of England to Scotland and Northern Ireland. Their golden age dates back to the Victorian era, but they remain essential spaces for social cohesion and collective memory today. Despite a wave of closures (nearly 15,800 pubs have disappeared since the beginning of the 21st century), many remain indispensable neighborhood landmarks.
Understanding How a Pub Works
For an expat, the first shock is often… the absence of table service for drinks. In a traditional pub, you order at the bar, period. The table is for sitting, chatting, eating; the counter is the nerve center where you order and pay.
The simplest approach is to follow this logic:
1. Enter, spot a free table and, if there is food service, note the table number. 2. Go to the bar to order drinks and possibly food. 3. Pay immediately (you don’t “run a tab,” except in special cases). 4. Sit down: drinks are given at the bar, food is generally brought to the table afterward.
In some establishments like gastropubs, hotel pubs, or separate dining rooms, service may be at the table, sometimes via QR code or interactive terminals. As customs vary from place to place, it is perfectly acceptable to politely ask at the counter: “How do you order food here?” to clarify the process.
During busy times, an unwritten rule is that one person from the group takes care of the order to avoid crowding. Nor do you form a queue “French style”: the bartender manages an informal order based on customer arrival. To get their attention, avoid shouting or snapping your fingers; favor eye contact, a slight gesture with your wallet or empty glass. And above all, know what you want before they turn to you.
Another custom: toward the end of the evening, the famous “last orders” is announced about twenty minutes before closing. It’s time for the last round. Then, a short “drinking-up time” allows you to finish your drink, but no more orders are possible.
Drinking Local: Beers, Ciders, and More
In a pub, the word “beer” covers a vast universe: lager, ale, bitter, stout, pale ale, IPA, wheat beer… Most beers are served in a pint (a little more than half a liter) or a half (half-pint). The UK is full of microbreweries and local breweries, and many counters feature several hand-pulled “real ale” pumps, like the famous London Pride.
It is common and well-regarded to ask for a sample of beer before ordering. Also, if you order a Guinness, ask for it first because its two-part pour takes longer than for other beers.
To get started, it’s best to begin with the specialties of the region where you live: amber ale in a Cotswolds pub, black stout in an urban bar, hoppy IPA from an independent brewery… The word “Free House” on the sign means the pub is not tied to a single brewery and can offer a variety of beers.
The pub doesn’t force alcohol. Non-alcoholic drinks, sodas, artisanal lemonades, juices, or even flavored milk are perfectly accepted. Ordering an elaborate cocktail in a very traditional pub, however, will still be frowned upon; the trend is more toward beers, ciders, and simple spirits.
Alongside beer, it would be a shame to ignore cider (made from fermented apples, often served very cold over ice) and, more rarely, perry (pear cider), particularly associated with counties like Herefordshire, Gloucestershire, or Worcestershire.
Snacking or Really Eating: Pub Food
The spectrum ranges from the pub without a kitchen that sticks to bar snacks – crisps (chips), peanuts, Scampi Fries, crunchy pork rinds – to the gastropub serving highly crafted seasonal cuisine. The rise of gastropubs was institutionalized as early as 1991 with the opening of The Eagle in Farringdon, often cited as the precursor of the genre.
The majority of pubs offer simple cuisine like sandwiches, pies, fish and chips, burgers, or Sunday roast. Quality can vary: chains are often criticized for their standardized, pre-cooked dishes, while independent establishments generally offer cuisine with more personality.
To find your way, operators like Liquid History Tours or “Historic Pubs Food Tours” in London offer to combine sightseeing with tastings.
“Rounds” and Tipping: Don’t Mess Up
An institution not to be underestimated if you want to keep your friends: the rounds system. In a group, you each take a turn buying a round for everyone. Refusing to play this game, or “forgetting” your turn, is considered quite a serious breach of etiquette. If you prefer to pay for your own drinks, say so clearly at the beginning, rather than discreetly slipping away at the crucial moment.
Regarding tips, there is no obligation at the counter. The traditional form of thanks is to say “and one for yourself”: the bartender then adds the equivalent of a drink to your bill. You can also round up and say “keep the change.” In areas with table service, a tip of 10 to 15% for good service is common, sometimes automatically included via a service charge.
Finally, two or three golden rules: don’t shout when a glass breaks (it’s seen as disrespectful to the staff), avoid filming or photographing employees without consent, return your empty glass to the bar when you leave, and don’t turn your glass into a trash can for tissues. Loud phone conversations or music without headphones are in very poor taste.
British Cheeses: A National Treasure to Absolutely Discover
For many Francophone expats, talking about cheese spontaneously evokes France or Italy. Yet, the UK is now considered one of the world’s great cheese-making countries, with more than 750 varieties produced and over 700 names listed by the former British Cheese Board. The country experienced a severe decline after World War II, when rationing imposed a uniform “Government Cheddar.” The lifting of restrictions allowed a genuine renaissance: return of traditional recipes, growth of artisans, creation of innovative styles.
Five Main Families, and a Myriad of Specialties
British cheeses are roughly classified into five categories: fresh, hard, soft, semi-soft, and blue.
Fresh cheeses (cream cheese, cottage cheese…) are very moist, white, and to be consumed quickly. Hard cheeses constitute the bulk of British “territorials”: cheddar, Lancashire, Cheshire, Double Gloucester… They are pressed and aged from a few weeks to over two years. Soft cheeses, like Somerset Brie or Baron Bigod, offer a runny center under a bloomy rind. Intermediate ones, like Cornish Yarg or Stinking Bishop, have supple textures, often with a washed, aromatic rind. Blue cheeses (Stilton, Shropshire Blue, Stichelton, Beauvale…) owe their colored veining to Penicillium roqueforti.
Cheddar remains the star: more than half of the annual value of cheese sales in the UK is associated with it.
To see more clearly, a comparison chart can help organize and visualize information, making it easier to compare different elements or options.
| Category | Iconic Examples | Main Texture & Taste |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh Cheeses | Cream cheese, cottage cheese | Very moist, mild, milky, to be consumed quickly |
| Hard Cheeses | Cheddar, Cheshire, Lancashire | Firm to crumbly, nutty, buttery flavors |
| Soft Cheeses | Somerset Brie, Tunworth, Baron Bigod | Creamy, bloomy rind, mushroomy notes |
| Semi-Soft / Washed | Cornish Yarg, Stinking Bishop | Supple paste, flavorful rind, powerful aromas but sometimes mild taste |
| Blue Cheeses | Stilton, Shropshire Blue, Beauvale, Stichelton | Pungent to buttery, marked blue veining |
Some Cheeses to Put at the Top of Your List
It’s impossible to be exhaustive, but some references alone tell part of the country’s culinary soul.
Cheddar, first. Originating from the village of Cheddar in Somerset, it ranges from mild to very mature. In its traditional “West Country Farmhouse Cheddar” version, it benefits from a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and must be produced in a specific area, from local milk, according to a codified know-how. Here, we talk about white cheddar, without coloring, and “mature” rather than “sharp.” An artisanal producer like Keen’s offers a powerful farmhouse cheddar with a pronounced farmhouse character, far from standardized industrial blocks.
Another heavyweight: Blue Stilton. It is the most famous British blue, the only cheese in the country to combine certified trademark and protected name at the European level. It can only be made from pasteurized cow’s milk in three counties (Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire), according to a strict recipe, with manual molding. The paste is buttery, less crumbly than Roquefort, with a marked but balanced blue intensity. Its unpasteurized cousin, Stichelton, revives the style while playing the artisanal card; unable to use the name Stilton, it distinguishes itself by this singular spelling.
Among historical cheeses, Cheshire holds a special place. Mentioned as early as the 16th century, it is one of the country’s oldest documented cheeses. Its dense, semi-hard texture, slight saltiness, and variations in white, red, or blue make it a staple of traditional cheese boards. Appleby’s Cheshire, wrapped in cloth rather than covered in wax, develops a mouthwatering, mineral flavor with a hint of citrus.
Appleby’s Cheshire
Other “territorials” deserve attention: Red Leicester, long fallen into disrepute then resurrected in an authentic version by Sparkenhoe; Double Gloucester, recognizable by its orange color and thick rind, to the point of being used as a projectile in a spectacular cheese-rolling race down a hill; or Lancashire, available in young “Creamy,” more mature “Tasty,” or more industrial “Crumbly” versions.
On the innovation side, the UK is now full of creations that have nothing to envy from their continental counterparts: Tunworth, a British camembert several times voted the country’s best cheese, with notes of mushroom, cabbage, fresh milk; Cornish Yarg, wrapped in nettle leaves (or wild garlic in season), which delicately flavor the paste; Stinking Bishop, a washed-rind cheese with perry (pear cider) of formidable odor but surprisingly mild, herbal paste, popularized by an animated film; Beauvale, a creamy blue in the style of gorgonzola imagined by a Stilton producer; Ticklemore, a goat cheese in the shape of a wheel partially drained in a basket, with a firm texture and clean taste.
This is the number of new cheeses that have recently appeared in the UK, notably in 2024 and 2025, several of which have already won international awards.
Knowing How to Buy and Taste: Some Practical Reference Points
The UK has a dense network of specialist cheesemongers and affineurs. Houses like Neal’s Yard Dairy, Paxton & Whitfield, Rennet & Rind, The Courtyard Dairy, The Cheese Society, or Indie Füde select, age, and ship cheeses from artisanal farms. Rennet & Rind, for example, has won the “Affineur of the Year” title several times.
British cheese boards readily pair with sourdough crackers, crunchy breads, fresh fruit, chutneys, and wines. Some pairings have become classics: Stilton and port or sherry; Wensleydale with fruitcake or apples; cheddar with Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay; Double Gloucester and light Pinot Noir.
To get an idea of the popularity of local cheeses, it’s interesting to look at the work of platforms like TasteAtlas, which rank the top 100 British cheeses based on thousands of filtered reviews (over 2,000 ratings recorded for the British ranking up to 2025). The stated goal is not to deliver a definitive verdict but to encourage curiosity and discovery of regional specialties.
Crumpets, Scones, and the Art of British Snacking
Cravings for sweet and savory are lived here around the kettle. Two icons of home baking play the starring roles: crumpets and scones. By getting to know them, you better understand the national passion for tea-time.
Crumpets: Irresistible Grilled Butter Sponges
Crumpets are small, thick discs, golden on one side, soft and spongy, pierced with holes that literally seem to call for melted butter, honey, or jam. They date back to at least the 17th century, heirs to even older preparations. Originally, a mix of wheat flour, yeast, milk, and eggs poured as a batter onto a griddle. Today, the typical recipe uses flour, water, milk, yeast, baking powder, and salt. The batter rises, then is cooked in small metal rings on a hot griddle. The bubbles from fermentation burst on the surface, leaving these characteristic craters.
In some regions, notably the Midlands and northern England, they are also called pikelets, although this word elsewhere (Australia, New Zealand) refers to kinds of drop scones. In the UK, a “National Crumpet Day” celebrates these soft discs every year, with themed snacks among friends or family.
To elevate a crumpet, toast it twice. This trick yields slightly crispy edges while keeping the interior soft. Once golden, slather it generously with butter and your favorite topping (marmalade, Marmite, honey, spread) so it can seep into its characteristic holes, for a typically British comfort.
Scones: The Pillar of Cream Tea
Scones occupy center stage when talking about afternoon tea. Originating in the UK, their name is said to be derived from the Dutch term “schoonbrot,” meaning “beautiful bread.” First made with oats and cooked on a griddle, they are now primarily prepared with flour and baked, giving that characteristic golden crust.
For airy scones, handle the dough sparingly. Cut cold butter into the dry ingredients for a lumpy texture, then bind with just enough liquid. Roll out the dough and cut out rounds with a cutter without twisting it, for straight edges and even baking. Avoid cutting with a knife, which creates uneven seams and prevents a good rise.
Served warm, split in two, scones welcome the famous jam–clotted cream combination, heart of the “cream tea.” Here again, eternal debate: in Devon, you put the cream first, then jam on top; in Cornwall, it’s the opposite. Legend has it that Queen Elizabeth II herself preferred the second method, jam first.
British scones are less sweet and more tender than their often triangular North American equivalents, and should not be confused with American savory biscuits, even if the appearance can be deceiving. Traditionally round, they come in plain, raisin, or savory (cheese scones) versions. Modern variations add cranberry, chocolate, stronger cheese, or adapt the recipe to gluten-free flours and plant-based milks.
A few technical tips circulate among amateur bakers: use very cold butter, keep the dough a bit thick, prevent egg wash from running down the sides (which risks preventing them from rising), use fine granulated sugar, turn milk into “fake buttermilk” by adding a little lemon juice. Scones freeze very well and can be reheated in the oven or even an air fryer.
Pie and Mash: The Working-Class Fast Food Become London Culinary Heritage
If you live in London or its outskirts, it’s hard to ignore another pillar of popular culture: pie and mash. This simple dish – a pie, one or several balls of mashed potato, and a parsley sauce called “liquor” – long remained the signature of the East End and docklands neighborhoods.
From Street to Specialized Shops
In the 18th and 19th centuries, street vendors nicknamed “piemen” roamed the streets with trays or carts, selling cheap pies. The most common filling: eel, abundant in the Thames. The liquor sauce was originally made from eel juice or cooking water, thickened and flavored with loads of parsley.
The pie trade gradually settled in London from the mid-19th century. In 1844, Henry Blanchard opened in Southwark what is considered the first specialized shop, an “Eel Pie House,” offering meat and eel pies with mash, at a low price. By 1874, there were several dozen stalls, and by the end of the century, over a hundred. These shops then became the popular canteen for dockers and the working classes.
Here is an overview of the evolution in the number of pie and mash shops in London:
| Approximate Period | Estimated Number of Shops |
|---|---|
| Late 19th century | > 100 |
| Mid-1990s | 87 |
| Around 1995–2000 (~25 years ago) | ~60 |
| 2020s | 25–34 |
| Around 2024 | 34 |
During World War II, these places benefited from special tolerance and remained open despite rationing, so popular were they. Today, they struggle against rising rents, gentrification, and diversification of tastes. Many reinvent themselves via online sales, delivery, vegetarian or vegan options, while claiming a Cockney identity.
What Makes Up a Real Plate of Pie and Mash
The canonical format relies on three elements, to which you can add the traditional eels:
Discover the three essential components of the traditional London dish ‘Pie, Mash & Liquor’.
An individual pie, historically eel, now overwhelmingly minced beef.
Smooth mashed potatoes, without butter or milk in the strictest version.
A green sauce, packed with parsley, often made with chicken or vegetable broth rather than eel juice.
The pastry itself often mixes a base of suet pastry and a top of puff pastry or shortcrust. A fun peculiarity: the pie is served upside down on the plate. Alongside, according to tradition, stewed eels or jellied eels complete the picture. For seasoning, no need for subtlety: generously add salt, malt vinegar, chili vinegar, pepper.
The local vocabulary is just as coded: a “one and one” means one pie and one ball of mash, “two and two” two pies and two portions. Ordered quickly, service is very fast.
Addresses, Families, and Modern Challenges
Three family lineages historically dominate the sector: the Cookes (of Irish origin), the Manzes (an Italian family from Ravello who started in ice cream), and the Kellys. Establishments like M. Manze near Tower Bridge – the oldest still-operating shop – or L. Manze in Walthamstow, a listed historic building, tell a story as much social as culinary. Other names resonate strongly: Arments on Walworth Road, Goddards in Greenwich, Harrington’s in Tooting, Robins, Castle’s in Camden, Battersea Pie Station in Covent Garden, The Windmill in Mayfair…
The European eel population has collapsed by 95% since the 1980s, forcing the sector to import mostly from the Netherlands and Northern Ireland. Some businesses have stopped serving it or replaced it with other fish. At the same time, steps are being taken to obtain European recognition (Traditional Speciality Guaranteed) for pie and mash, with the establishment of a common recipe.
For an expat, pushing open the door of one of these houses, even if you choose a beef version and a portion of liquor without eel, is to step into London’s working-class history, its tiled aesthetic, marble tables, wooden benches.
Sunday Roast: Understanding the True British Sunday Meal
If there is one ritual that sums up UK family gastronomy, it’s the Sunday roast. Born in the time of Henry VII in the 15th century, linked to the tradition of eating roast meat after religious service, this meal marked the end of a fast and brought the whole family together. Later, the “beefeaters” associated with the Tower of London helped anchor roast beef in the popular imagination, to the point that the French long nicknamed the British “les Rosbifs.”
Traditionally served on Sunday in the mid or late afternoon, the Sunday roast has gradually moved into the week, particularly in pubs and restaurants that offer it on weekdays or during holidays.
The Essential Components of a Roast
The basic structure is simple in appearance:
A traditional meal generally includes a roasted meat (beef, lamb, pork, chicken, game, or turkey), accompanied by crispy roast potatoes (roasties), Yorkshire puddings (sort of puffed popovers baked in hot fat), gravy sauce based on cooking juices, and a variety of seasonal vegetables like carrots, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, or green beans.
To this are added appropriate condiments: horseradish cream for beef, mint sauce for lamb, apple sauce for pork. Cauliflower served as a cheese gratin (cauliflower cheese), “pigs in blankets” (mini-sausages wrapped in bacon), and sage and onion stuffings often complete the picture.
Sunday Roast is a very popular traditional Sunday meal, often eaten at the pub. It brings families and friends together around a roast, ordered from a chalkboard menu. Some establishments, like The Harwood Arms in Fulham, have made it a specialty of excellence, to the point of being distinguished by the Michelin guide.
Trying It at Home: Organization and Tips
Preparing a complete roast at home remains a logistical challenge rather than a technical feat. Everything can be done in a domestic kitchen, but the key is planning: letting the meat rest, using the oven smartly, preparing in advance what can be (Yorkshire pudding batter, sauces, cutting vegetables).
Some technical principles well anchored in the local culinary culture:
For the meat, choose suitable cuts like rib of beef, rump steak, sirloin, leg of lamb, or shoulder of pork, with bone-in cuts offering more flavor. Use a two-stage cooking method: sear at high heat, then finish in a lower oven. Use a meat thermometer to control doneness (rare: 50–55°C, medium: 63–65°C). Let the meat rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. For potatoes, parboil them, drain, shake to roughen the edges, then roast in very hot fat, turning regularly. For Yorkshire pudding, prepare a smooth batter rested in the cold, pour into scorching hot molds containing smoking hot fat (like roast drippings) for a thermal shock ensuring a hollow center forms.
Modern variations lighten the load: slow cooker roasts and vegetables, “one-tray” versions where meat and trimmings cook together on a sheet pan, or adapting the entire meal in an air fryer.
For vegetarian or vegan diets, the UK now offers a multitude of options: nut roasts, lentil wellingtons, roasted celeriac, various stuffed vegetables, accompanied by vegetable gravy and revisited puddings.
Afternoon Tea: Much More Than Just a Snack
Afternoon tea is perhaps the culinary tradition most immediately associated with British elegance. Its establishment as a real meal dates back to the 19th century, when the Duchess of Bedford, tired of the hunger felt between lunch and a very late dinner, began to have tea, small sandwiches, and sweets brought in mid-afternoon… then invited her friends, popularizing the ritual in aristocratic circles before it spread to the middle class. By the late 19th century, tea-time had become an institution at all levels of society.
The Composition of a Classic Afternoon Tea
A traditional afternoon tea includes:
A British elegant ritual composed of sweet and savory treats, served in the afternoon.
A choice of teas, often black (Darjeeling, Assam, Ceylon, Earl Grey), served in a pot, with milk and sometimes lemon.
A tier of crustless sandwiches, cut into fingers or triangles, with delicate fillings: cucumber, smoked salmon, egg mayonnaise, Coronation chicken, ham and mustard.
Warm scones served with clotted cream and jam, usually strawberry.
An assortment of cakes and small pastries: Victoria sponge, Battenberg, biscuits, mini tarts.
The treats are often presented on a tiered stand: sandwiches on the bottom, scones in the middle, sweets on top. It’s called a “cream tea” when focusing solely on scones, cream, and jam accompanied by tea.
For an expat, trying an afternoon tea at a grand London hotel (Ritz, Claridge’s, Savoy, Brown’s, Fortnum & Mason…) is a gourmet initiation that comes at a cost but leaves a lasting memory. Modern versions sometimes include a glass of champagne, thematic variations (inspired by a series, an author, a season), and extensive tea menus, including infusions, rooibos, green teas.
Small Etiquette Codes
Even if the ceremony is more relaxed today, a few rules remain alive:
During an English tea, place your napkin on your lap and never use it as a handkerchief. For tea, sugar first, then add either lemon or milk, as these two ingredients do not mix. Hold the cup handle between your thumb and forefinger, without raising your pinky. Stir gently without clinking the sides, then place the spoon on the saucer. Sandwiches and scones are eaten with your fingers, in small bites, while cakes may sometimes require a fork. For the scone, split it in two with your hands or a knife, then spread jam first, then cream on each half.
Historically, afternoon tea was a time for light conversation, without controversial topics, and didn’t drag on: half an hour was enough. Today, it has become a celebratory moment, taken more occasionally, to celebrate an event or introduce visitors to a very codified facet of the culture.
Beyond institutions, contemporary UK gastronomy increasingly revolves around seasonality, provenance, and environmental respect. Organizations like the Vegetarian Society or Hubbub publish guides and calendars updated weekly, listing seasonal fruits, vegetables, herbs, fish, and meats. The idea: eat products harvested at the right time in the country, rather than intensive imports, to gain in flavor, nutritional value, and reduce carbon footprint.
Some producers and wholesalers, sometimes active for four generations in regions like Wiltshire or the Cotswolds, supply local restaurants and schools through short supply chains. Thanks to agricultural and storage innovations, British products like carrots or apples are now available year-round. Greenhouse cultivation (eggplants, peppers) also extends seasons.
Seasonality remains a solid guide, however. It can be summarized as follows:
| Season | Some Star Products in the UK |
|---|---|
| Spring | English asparagus (very short season), wild garlic, Yorkshire forced rhubarb, morels, Jersey Royals |
| Summer | Strawberries (e.g., Elsanta from Cheshire and Staffordshire), raspberries, cherries, sweetcorn, abundance of green vegetables |
| Autumn | English apples and pears, wild mushrooms, squashes (Crown Prince, onion squash, acorn squash), pumpkins |
| Winter | Cabbages (savoy, red, cavolo nero), leeks, parsnips, forced rhubarb, imported citrus (blood oranges, Seville oranges) |
Farmers’ markets or weekly markets allow you to meet producers directly. Looking for a mention of seasonal fruit on a restaurant menu or pub board also becomes a good indicator of places attentive to their sourcing.
Where to Shop: Supermarkets, World Food Stores, and Markets
For an expat, gastronomy happens as much at the restaurant as at the supermarket. The UK has a vast network of food chains, covered markets, specialty grocers, and online commerce.
Supermarkets: From Discount to Premium
Big names shape daily life: Tesco (around 4,000 stores), Sainsbury’s, Asda, Morrisons, Waitrose, Co-op, Aldi, Lidl, Iceland, Marks & Spencer Foodhall, Whole Foods, or regional chains like Budgens and Booths. Quality is generally homogeneous, even if each brand cultivates a positioning: low prices for Aldi or Lidl, mid-range for Tesco or Sainsbury’s, emphasis on organic and ethical for Waitrose or Whole Foods, highly refined ready meals and own brands at M&S.
Most supermarkets have extended hours (some hypermarkets used to be open 24/7 on weekdays), although law limits large store openings to six hours on Sunday, typically 10 a.m.–4 p.m. or 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Downtown stores often have fewer services (no parking, fewer carts) and encourage more frequent, smaller purchases.
Most supermarkets offer loyalty cards (e.g., Clubcard, Nectar) providing discounts and specific prices. Self-checkout is very common, and you need to bring your own bags or buy them on site for a few pence.
Stocking Up on World Foods
One of the UK’s great assets for an expat is its diversity. You’ll find in most large supermarkets a “World Foods” aisle where soy sauce, curry pastes, tahini, ramen, Basmati, tortillas, harissa, pierogi, kielbasa, Tex-Mex products, Asian snacks, and more cross paths.
Add to this many specialty grocers, especially in big cities: Chinese supermarkets (SeeWoo, Wing Yip, Hoo Hing, Hang Won Hong), Japanese grocery stores, Indian, Pakistani, or Bangladeshi shops (Indian Spice Shop, Pak Foods, Worldwide Foods, Ozmen, Desi Express), Middle Eastern boutiques (Persepolis, Green Valley), African (Bims African Food Store), Latin American (Mestizo Mexican Market), Eastern European (Kalinka)… Not to mention Italian, German, Russian, or Turkish grocers. For those missing home, brands like British Corner Shop, online, export British brands worldwide… the reverse also exists for foreign products delivered to the UK.
London Markets: Eating the City Outdoors
London is one of the most interesting playgrounds for a food-loving expat. Over a hundred food markets and covered halls dot the capital, from the millennia-old Borough Market to recent halls like KERB Seven Dials Market or the various Market Halls.
Borough Market, near London Bridge, is a historic market over 1000 years old. It operates as a wholesale market early in the morning and as a public market for the rest of the day. You’ll find a wide variety of fresh produce (butchers, cheesemongers, importers) as well as many renowned street food stalls and restaurants. It’s an ideal spot for a quick lunch, but it’s advisable to visit on weekdays to avoid the large weekend crowds.
At the same time, newer, very street food-oriented markets have exploded. Broadway Market in London Fields mixes producers, Caribbean, South American or Asian food stalls, and independent cafes. Netil Market, right next door, condenses in miniature format New York-style pizzas, spicy noodles, sourdough bagels. Maltby Street Market, under the Bermondsey arches, offers a very friendly concentration of burgers, duck fat fries, gyozas, grilled meats… far from Borough’s crowds, but only a mile away.
London’s culinary diversity is illustrated in its many markets: Old Spitalfields Market (Victorian hall with Japanese pancakes and mezzes), Camden Market and Hawley Wharf (street food along the canal), Southbank Centre Food Market (Mediterranean, Asian or British stalls facing the Thames), Victoria Park Market (farmers’ market with local beers and natural wines), and Brixton Village (Caribbean, Japanese, and Ethiopian cuisines).
Large modern halls – Mercato Metropolitano, Seven Dials Market, Market Halls (Oxford Street, Victoria, Canary Wharf), Bang Bang Oriental Foodhall, Eataly – embody a new generation: several dozen counters under one roof, bars, sometimes musical programming and events, for a very flexible experience.
For an expat, these markets offer a double advantage: access to British specialties (pies, puddings, cheeses, pastries) and to a mosaic of international cuisines that reflect the country’s diversity. They also constitute a fantastic backdrop for getting to know the city: many are linked to iconic neighborhoods (Soho, Notting Hill, Shoreditch, Greenwich, Camden, Hackney, Brixton, South Bank…).
Embracing the Food Scene: Between Tradition and Renewal
The UK of clichés – dull, overcooked cuisine – has little to do with today’s reality. London ranks among the world’s great food capitals, blending tradition and creativity, obsession with seasonality, promotion of artisans, and influences from all diasporas.
Chefs like Fergus Henderson (St. John), Margot Henderson (Rochelle Canteen), Jeremy Lee (Quo Vadis), Clare Smyth (Core), Tomos Parry (BRAT), Doug McMaster (Silo, zero-waste pioneer) or the teams at The Clove Club, Fallow, The Harwood Arms, or The Ledbury have shaped a very recognizable style: local produce, respect for the animal (even “nose-to-tail” cooking), reinterpretation of historic recipes, fermentation work, environmental concern.
For an expat, this means you don’t have to choose between fish and chips and sophisticated cuisine. You can, over the weeks:
For a gradual culinary immersion, start by enjoying a Sunday roast at a reputable pub, then recreate a simplified version at home with seasonal vegetables. Next, organize a homemade cream tea with homemade scones, local jam, and clotted cream bought at the supermarket, before treating yourself to a grand afternoon tea at an iconic hotel. Also explore regional cheeses, one per week, buying them from an independent cheesemonger or farmers’ market, and pairing them with a cider, port, or local beer. Finally, treat yourself to an informal lunch in a covered market to taste dishes like traditional pie and mash, a modern crumble, or liquid nitrogen ice cream, and take an interest in the social history these dishes reveal about the neighborhoods you visit.
By relying on a few key reference points – the central role of the pub, the importance of seasonality, the unsuspected richness of cheeses and baked goods, the dynamism of markets, the anchoring of Sunday roast and afternoon tea – UK gastronomy quickly ceases to be a simple postcard backdrop to become familiar territory, nourishing in both the literal and figurative sense. And it’s often through the table that one moves from the status of stranger to that of resident.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
