Immerse Yourself in Korean Cuisine: A Living Culinary Guide for Expats in South Korea

Published on January 17, 2026 and written by Cyril Jarnias

Discovering local gastronomy in South Korea is not just about learning new dishes. It’s entering a culture where “Have you eaten?” serves as hello, where a simple bowl of soup can tell the story of a region, and where knowing how to use your chopsticks is almost as important as knowing how to order. For an expatriate, the table becomes one of the fastest places to understand Korean society – provided you master a few of its codes.

Understanding the Korean Table Spirit

In South Korea, eating is a profoundly social act. A meal is shared around several dishes placed in the center, with banchan (small side dishes) systematically complementing the bowl of rice. You almost never order an individual plate the Western way: instead, you choose an assortment of dishes for the table, with everyone helping themselves as they wish.

This organization reflects very strong Confucian values: respect for elders, hierarchy, group harmony. You wait for the oldest person to start eating before you serve yourself. You adapt your pace to that of others – finishing well before everyone else can be misinterpreted as a lack of interest or enjoyment.

Grasping these principles allows for a better understanding of why so many dishes seem “strong” or heavily seasoned: they are designed to be eaten with rice, not alone.

Taming the Markets: The Beating Heart of Korean Gastronomy

For an expatriate, traditional markets (sijang) are the best culinary playground. You can find everything there: ultra-fresh products, street food, regional specialties, utensils, but also a concentrated dose of daily life. Prices are often more gentle than in supermarkets, and flavors are more straightforward.

In Seoul: Markets for Every Craving

Several Seoul markets are essential</strong for anyone wanting to understand local cuisine and its products.

Gwangjang Market, founded in 1905, is the country’s oldest permanent market. Originally specializing in fabrics and hanbok, it has become a veritable cathedral of bunsik (Korean snacks/street food). Its aisles are packed with stalls serving:

– bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) ground and fried before your eyes,

– mountains of mayak gimbap (“addictive” mini rice rolls),

– bowls of kalguksu (knife-cut noodles),

– tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes),

– twisted donuts kkwabaegi, sweet hotteok, hodugwaja (small walnut cakes), or the famous dalgona, the sugar candy made viral by “Squid Game.”

Some stalls have become famous far beyond Seoul. The small noodle counter of Cho Yonsoon, highlighted by the Netflix series Street Food: Asia, is mobbed. Further on, Pinchang Noodles, opened in 1977, has been serving its kalguksu for decades. To accompany an assortment of japchae (stir-fried sweet potato noodles) or savory pancakes, the bar-restaurant Hosunseng offers an impressive menu of makgeolli, that white, slightly sparkling rice wine, featured in the show Soju Rhapsody with chef Paik Jong-won.

A little further south, Namdaemun Market is Korea’s largest traditional market, with a history dating back to the 1400s. Under its tunnels and alleyways hides, among other things, a famous “kalguksu alley” and countless popular restaurants. The market operates from 9 AM to 5:30 PM, then reawakens for a night market from 11 PM to 4 AM. It is closed on Sundays. Here, bargaining is still practiced at some stalls, especially outside the food section.

A few metro stops away, Myeongdong embodies another facet of indulgence: that of tourist street food, very staged. Starting around 5 PM, stalls invade the streets until 1 AM. You’ll find great classics – gyeran-ppang (egg bread), corn dogs stuffed with mozzarella and coated with french fries, tornado potatoes, meat skewers, cheese tteokbokki – but also more spectacular options like cheese-grilled lobster tails or giant ice creams. Prices are higher than in neighborhood markets, but remain reasonable: ₩1,500–2,000 for gyeran-ppang, ₩2,000–4,000 for a tornado potato, ₩5,000 for a fried chicken + tteokbokki combo.

For seafood, Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market is a must-visit. This wholesale market, over 80 years old, is open 24/7 for the high-end sections, and nearly all night for the others. You’ll find everything the surrounding sea offers: raw fish (hoe), octopus, shrimp, crab, shellfish, including the famous sannakji (octopus served still squirming). The particularity: you buy your fish or seafood at the market, then have it prepared on-site at an adjoining restaurant. Tables are charged per person – around ₩4,000 at Jagalchi, similar prices at Noryangjin – plus cooking fees and side dishes.

Finally, Seoul has more specialized markets, useful for the expatriate who starts cooking: Majang Meat Market for meat (especially samgyeopsal, pork belly for barbecue), Garak Market for fruits, vegetables, and seafood, Yangnyeongsi Herbal Market or Gyeongdong for medicinal herbs and roots, Mangwon Market for a lively neighborhood market combining fresh produce and street food.

Outside Seoul: Busan, Jeonju, Jeju, Daegu…

Outside the capital, markets remain the best observatories of regional cuisines.

Further north, the city of Jeonju, official birthplace of bibimbap, is home to a very lively Nambu Night Market on Friday and Saturday evenings. About thirty stalls there reinterpret local classics as street food: mini-bibimbap, pancakes, skewers, desserts… The Jeonju Hanok Village, with its alleyways lined with traditional houses, offers the chance to taste bibimbap as well as many variations inspired by this iconic dish.

On Jeju, markets adapt to the island’s rhythm. The Jeju 5-Day Market (market every five days) gathers producers from all over the island, while the Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market, open daily from 7 AM to 9 PM, offers a concentration of local specialties: grilled Jeju black pork, abalone stews, citrus fruits turned into fresh juice, snacks based on seaweed and sweet potatoes. These markets are ideal for understanding the cuisine of an island where rice was long scarce, replaced by millet, barley, and seafood.

In Daegu, Seomun Market combines day market (9 AM–6 PM) and night market on Fridays and Saturdays until 11:30 PM. There you can taste nabjak mandu, flat dumplings filled with vermicelli and chives, or small peanut cakes sold by the dozen.

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Practical Landmarks: Key Markets

To find your way around, here is a concise summary of some major markets and what they offer to a curious expatriate.

Market / City	Notable Culinary Specialties	Main Hours	Closure
Gwangjang (Seoul)	Bindaetteok, mayak gimbap, kalguksu, tteokbokki, hotteok, makgeolli	9 AM–10:30 PM (varies by stall)	Stalls often closed Sun./Mon.
Namdaemun (Seoul)	Kalguksu alley, banchan, varied street food	9 AM–5:30 PM + night market 11 PM–4 AM	Sunday
Myeongdong (Seoul)	Night street food, corn dogs, gyeran-ppang, cheese lobster	Night market approx. 5 PM–1 AM	Daily
Tongin (Seoul)	Yeopjeon lunch box, varied homemade dishes	Lunch box service 11 AM–4 PM	Depends on stall
Noryangjin (Seoul)	Seafood, raw fish, sannakji, restaurants that cook your purchases	24/7 for high-end section, early morning–evening for the rest	Daily
Jagalchi (Busan)	Largest fish market, sashimi, cooked seafood	5 AM–10 PM	Tuesday
Nambu Night Market (Jeonju)	Night street food, mini-bibimbap, snacks	Evenings, especially Fri. & Sat.	Seasonal
Seogwipo Maeil Olle (Jeju)	Jeju specialties, black pork, citrus	7 AM–9 PM	Daily

To get there, forget Google Maps, which is very limited in South Korea. Naver Map or KakaoMap are the reference apps, coupled with a transportation card like T-Money which works on most subways and buses.

Street Food: Eating Standing, Eating the City

Street food – bunsik – is at the heart of popular culture. It is consumed in markets, on sidewalks, but also in small, cheap specialized restaurants. It suits a fast-paced city, where you swallow a snack while walking or waiting for your subway.

A few must-tries are found everywhere, from Seoul to Busan.

Classics to Try

Tteokbokki holds a special place. These cylinders of chewy rice simmered in a red gochujang sauce, sometimes enhanced with fish cakes (eomuk), hard-boiled eggs, or ramen noodles (rabokki), are for many Koreans a Proustian madeleine of childhood. In Myeongdong, a serving sells for between ₩2,500 and ₩4,000, ₩3,000 if you add a cheese skewer. The spice level varies but remains high for an unaccustomed palate.

Sweet-toothed individuals quickly adopt:

– hotteok, thick pancakes filled with brown sugar, cinnamon, honey, nuts, and in Busan with seed mixtures (ssiat hotteok);

– bungeoppang, small fish-shaped waffles filled with red bean paste, cream, or chocolate;

– gyeran-ppang, small brioche-like buns baked with a whole egg in the center;

– tanghulu, fruit coated in hard caramel on a stick, which has become trendy in Seoul.

On the savory side, eomuk (or odeng) – fish cakes skewered on sticks, kept warm in a clear broth – warm hands in winter. A cup of broth is usually given for free. Twigim, various fried items (vegetables, squid, eggs, dumplings) are chosen by weight, often eaten dipped in tteokbokki sauce.

Eomuk (Odeng) and Twigim

The more adventurous can try beondegi, boiled silkworm pupae, sold in a cup as a protein snack, or spicy chicken skewers (dakkochi), chicken feet (dakbal), or even the iconic sannakji.

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Some Street Foods and Their Price Ranges

Specialty	Quick Description	Typical Price Range (₩)
Tteokbokki	Rice cakes in sweet-spicy sauce	2,500–4,000
Corn dog / gamja hot dog	Sausage/mozzarella coated in batter and fries	2,000–4,000 (varies by area)
Hotteok	Stuffed sweet pancake	From 1,500
Gyeran-ppang	Egg bread	1,500–2,000
Bungeoppang	Fish-shaped waffle filled (red bean or cream)	~1,000 for 2–3 pieces
Bindaetteok (large)	Mung bean pancake	~5,000
Jjinmandu (steamed dumplings)	Steamed dumplings (3–5 pieces)	~3,000
Tornado potato	Spiral-cut fried potatoes	2,000–4,000

For an expatriate, these snack bars are perfect for getting acquainted with flavors without blowing your budget. They also allow you to try sometimes disconcerting textures (very soft rice cakes, pastries with red beans, grilled seaweed) without committing to a full meal.

Building a Korean Pantry: Cooking Like the Locals

Settling in South Korea also means, sooner or later, stepping behind the stove. The good news is that a large part of Korean cuisine relies on a relatively narrow core of basic ingredients. Once these “pillars” are in place, a host of dishes becomes accessible.

You can think in circles. A first circle of five essentials: ganjang (soy sauce), gochujang (chili paste), gochugaru (chili flakes), sesame oil, and sesame seeds. With these five products, some rice, and a few vegetables, you can already improvise marinades, quick stir-fries, and seasoned salads.

Powders, Seaweed, and Dried Products

Gochugaru, dried and ground Korean red chili pepper, is central to many recipes – from kimchi to stews. It comes in fine texture (more for color and pastes) and coarser (for everyday cooking). Ideally, store it in the refrigerator, especially in the humidity of the Korean summer, to avoid mold and rancidity.

Toasted sesame seeds (bokkeun chamggae) are used as a finishing touch on stir-fried vegetables (namul), sauces, or rice dishes. Their role is as much aromatic as textural, adding crunch and warmth.

Seaweed holds a central place in Korean cuisine and nutrition. Dried miyeok (wakame) is the basis for the famous seaweed soup (miyeok-guk), considered very nutritious, especially for pregnant women or after childbirth, to the point of being traditionally served on one’s birthday. Rehydrate it for about twenty minutes before using. Gim (nori), thinner, comes in sheets:

– the jaerae gim version, roasted, oiled, salted, ready to be crunched with rice or as a snack;

– the thicker, unseasoned version for gimbap.

Dashima (kombu/kelp) is simmered for a long time to produce broths rich in minerals and umami, allowing you to reduce salt, flavor enhancers, or meat broths. Large dried anchovies often complete this base broth, while small ones are cooked stir-fried as a crunchy, slightly sweet side dish.

On the mushroom side, dried shiitake are ubiquitous. Once rehydrated, they have a meaty texture and such an intense flavor that they can sometimes replace meat in vegetarian dishes. The soaking water serves as a vegetable stock.

Liquid Sauces and Oils

Korean soy sauce (ganjang) is more nuanced than it seems. Notable distinctions include:

– yangjo ganjang, naturally fermented soy sauce, for stir-fries and braises;

– guk ganjang, lighter and saltier, intended for soups and stews, where it can replace salt while giving additional depth;

– jin ganjang, often a less expensive blend.

For barbecue dishes, a rice cooking wine (mirim) is often added to marinades to tenderize the meat and neutralize certain odors. Korean fish sauces (aekjeot) – often made from anchovies or a small species of herring (sand lance) – structure the flavor of many kimchi and side dishes.

For the shiny crunch of fried foods and glazed sauces, syrups like mulyeot (corn syrup) or oligodang (oligosaccharide) are common: small amounts, but decisive effect on texture and color.

Fermented Pastes: The Soul of Flavors

Three pastes structure most dishes:

– gochujang, a mix of finely ground chili, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans, and salt, spicy but slightly sweet, omnipresent in marinades, bibimbap sauces, tteokbokki, stews;

– doenjang, fermented soybean paste, more rustic and powerful than Japanese miso, which gives character to doenjang jjigae and a host of sauces;

– ssamjang, a ready-to-use or homemade mix of gochujang, doenjang, garlic, onion, sesame oil… served with barbecue to fill lettuce leaves (ssam).

Another black paste, chunjang, is the base for jajangmyeon, noodles in a black bean sauce that has become emblematic of Korean-Chinese restaurants.

Grains, Noodles, and Starches

Korean rice is a short-grain rice (ssal), sticky when cooked, both slightly sweet and shiny. It differs markedly from drier long-grain rice. Brands grown in California like Kokuho Rose are very popular, as are microwaveable rice packets like Hetban for rushed meals. Many Koreans use an automatic rice cooker (Cuckoo, Zojirushi…) that can also prepare porridges and scorched rice (nurungji).

Vegetables, Meat, Seafood

Baechu (napa cabbage) is the base of the most common kimchi, but also of simple soups or wraps. Mu (Korean radish), stockier than daikon, is found in cubed kimchi (kkakdugi), soups, and pickles.

Perilla leaves (gganip), with their fragrance between basil, mint, and anise, serve as herbs, wraps, or pickled vegetables. Garlic (manul) is omnipresent, to the point that the average Korean supposedly consumes over 6 kg per year. Ginger, green onions (pa), bean sprouts (kongnamul), cucumbers, zucchini, and mushrooms are also ubiquitous.

On the seafood side, eomuk (fish cakes), gim seaweed, anchovies, squid, and octopus play roles as both garnish and broth base. For meat, pork belly (samgyeopsal) and beef (sirloin, tenderloin) dominate barbecues and iconic dishes like bulgogi.

Markers of Modernity: Ready-to-Use Products

South Korea has no qualms about using pre-made preparations when they save time without sacrificing taste. Pancake mixes (buchimgaru) – wheat flour, rice, starch, leavening – are considered pantry basics for cooking jeon and pajeon. Same for instant broths dashida, bulgogi marinades, and ready-to-use bibimbap pastes.

Supermarkets and grocery stores are full of industrial snacks that have become cult: Orion twist chips, Lotte choco pie, HBAF flavored almonds or Gilim Tom’s… Add to that instant porridges (Dongwon) and ready-to-heat soups (CJ).

For the expatriate, gradually adopting these products allows for anchoring local habits while remaining pragmatic.

At the Restaurant: Deciphering the Codes Without Getting Lost

Eating out is central to Korean social life. But for a newcomer, walking through the door of a small neighborhood sikdang can be intimidating: menu only in Hangeul, staff with little English, different ordering system…

Types of Restaurants and How They Work

In big cities like Seoul or Busan, many small diners and fast restaurants operate with self-ordering kiosks. You choose your dish (often illustrated with photos), pay directly, then sit down with your ticket waiting for your number to be called or displayed.

Old-fashioned family restaurants, often tiny, still rely on oral orders: you sit down, announce your choice to the person cooking, who is often also the cashier. In more classic restaurants, a server welcomes you at the entrance, though it’s common to simply choose a table after indicating the number of people.

Water is almost always self-service. Glasses, chopsticks, and spoons are often found in a drawer built into the table. In some very simple establishments, the rice itself is self-serve.

A Few Phrases That Change Everything

Mastering a few expressions makes life much easier. For example:

– 이거 주세요 (igeo juseyo): “This, please,” very useful when pointing at a dish on a menu or a photo.

– 이게 뭐예요? (ige mwoyeyo?): “What is this?”

– 이거 맵나요? (igeo maemnayo?): “Is this spicy?”

– 덜 맵게 해 주세요 (deol maepge hae juseyo): “Less spicy, please.”

– 물 좀 주세요 (mul jom juseyo): “Some water, please.”

– 계산할게요 (gyesan halgeyo): “We’ll pay.”

For special diets:

– 전 채식주의자에요 (jeon chaeshikjuijaeyo): “I am vegetarian.”

– 저는 돼지고기를 못 먹어요 (jeoneun dwaejigogireul mot meogeoyo): “I cannot eat pork.”

– 채식메뉴 있으세요? (chaeshik menyu isseuseyo?): “Do you have vegetarian dishes?”

And to ask for a recommendation:

– 오늘 추천 메뉴는 뭐예요? (oneul chucheon menyuneun mwoyeyo?): “What is the recommended dish today?“

– 여기 뭐가 맛있어요? (yeogi mwoga masisseoyo?): “What’s good here?”

Reading a Korean Menu Without Panic

Even without reading Korean fluently, a few keywords allow you to spot the essentials.

– 밥 (bap): rice / dish with rice (bibimbap, gukbap, bokkeumbap…)

– 국 (guk), 탕 (tang): soups

– 찌개 (jjigae): thicker stews, often served boiling hot in a ttukbaegi (earthenware pot)

– 면 (myeon): noodles (naengmyeon, jajangmyeon…)

– 구이 (gui): grilled (samgyeopsal gui, saengseon gui…)

– 볶음 (bokkeum): stir-fried (dak bokkeum, kimchi bokkeum…)

– 전 (jeon) / 부침개 (buchimgae): savory pancakes

– 전골 (jeongol): hot pot dishes served in a casserole to share

– 찜 (jjim): steamed or braised (galbijjim, andong jjimdak…)

– 조림 (jorim): braised in a reduced sauce (fish, potatoes…)

Others indicate ingredients and intensity:

– 소고기 (sogogi): beef; 돼지고기 (dwaejigogi): pork; 닭고기 (dakgogi): chicken.

– 해물 (haemul): seafood.

– 매운 (maeun): spicy; 고추 (gochu): chili pepper; 양념 (yangnyeom): seasoned, often in a spicy sauce.

Always check if the dish includes rice: it’s not systematic in barbecue or specialized restaurants.

Payment and Tipping

When leaving, you usually take the check to the counter rather than paying at the table. If no bill has been provided, it’s often enough to go to the counter; the staff remembers what was ordered.

Bank cards are widely accepted. When paying, hand the card or money directly to the person; placing bills on the counter is considered nonchalant.

A crucial point for many expatriates: tipping is not customary. Leaving extra money can make people uncomfortable, even be perceived as inappropriate. A smile and a “감사합니다 (gamsahamnida)” are enough.

Table Manners: Appearing Local in a Few Meals

Sitting at a Korean table also means adopting certain gestures. Nothing insurmountable, but these details are closely observed.

First, you wait for the oldest person to start eating. Before the first spoonful, everyone says “잘 먹겠습니다 (jal meokgetseumnida)”, literally “I will eat well,” a form of thanks to the person who offered the meal or cooked. At the end of the meal, “잘 먹었습니다 (jal meogeotseumnida)” marks appreciation.

Another notable difference from other Asian cuisines: you do not lift your bowl of rice or soup to eat. The bowl stays on the table; you bring the food to your mouth with the spoon.

In a shared dish configuration, avoid “digging” in a communal dish with your personal chopsticks. Serve yourself what you can eat in a few bites, possibly with a clean spoon if provided, then come back later. Eating very little banchan can be interpreted as a lack of interest in the meal, but leaving a little in each small dish is normal.

Drinking with Others: Unspoken Rules

With alcohol – soju, makgeolli, beer – the codes become a bit more complex. The main idea: you do not pour for yourself. Be attentive to others’ glasses, especially those of elders or superiors, refilling them as soon as the level drops. When someone pours for you, hold your glass with both hands, or with one hand while the other supports your wrist or forearm, as a sign of respect. When clinking glasses, the younger person discreetly places their glass slightly lower than that of the elder.

Going Further: Learning by Cooking with Locals

For an expatriate, cooking classes are a fantastic shortcut to understanding local gastronomy. Many organizations, especially in Busan and Seoul, offer workshops designed for foreigners, sometimes combined with a market visit.

Companies like I LOVE HANSIK or Experience Busan have made transmitting Korean cuisine a veritable tourist product: small group classes (often 7 to 12 people), multilingual interpreters, explanation of the historical context (e.g., the origin of budae jjigae, the “army stew” born from American surplus after the war), eating together around a bapsang (traditional table set with numerous dishes).

Workshops almost always offer a recipe booklet to take home, sometimes a certificate, and the possibility of taking leftovers. For an expatriate, it’s also an opportunity to ask very practical questions: how to choose your gochugaru, which local brands to favor for soy sauce or sesame oil, how to read an aekjeot label…

Conclusion: From Foreigner to Neighborhood ‘Regular’

Appropriating Korean gastronomy as an expatriate is a progressive journey. You often start with the big markets like Gwangjang or Myeongdong, where food is very visible, very mediatized. Then you discover neighborhood markets like Mangwon, diners without bilingual signs, the pojangmacha (street tents) where you drink soju and eat anjus (dishes to accompany alcohol) among office workers after hours.

Korean gastronomy is often described as “rich, nutritious, easy to prepare, and delicious.” What strikes you most is its coherence: from markets to restaurants, from birthday soup to night street food dishes, everything is connected by the same logic of sharing, seasonality, and fermented flavors. For the expatriate who agrees to learn the codes – at the table, in the market, in the kitchen – South Korea offers an infinite field of exploration, where every meal becomes an opportunity to better understand the country.