Religious Practices and Daily Life: A Guide for Expatriates in Cuba

Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias

Moving to Cuba means entering a universe where music, politics, and faith constantly intersect. Religion here is neither entirely private nor entirely public: it intertwines with revolutionary history, African heritage, Spanish culture, and the realities of an ever-present communist state. For an expatriate, understanding this religious ecosystem is essential to avoid missteps, build genuine relationships, and correctly interpret what is happening in the public sphere.

Good to know:

This guide explores Cuba’s religious landscape and provides essential practical markers: how to behave in a church or during a Santería ritual, conversation topics to avoid, appropriate dress codes, the main religious holidays on the calendar, as well as the limits set by local authorities.

A Multiple Religious Landscape: Between Catholicism, Afro-Cuban Identity, and Non-Religion

The first surprise for many expatriates is the gap between “official” figures and actual practices. On paper, the country remains majority Christian, but daily life mixes beliefs, skepticism, African rites, and cultural Catholicism.

The situation can be roughly summarized as follows (data from various recent surveys and estimates):

Category / Religious CurrentApproximate Share of Population
Christians (broad sense)~60 %
— culturally Catholic~54–60 %
— Protestant / Evangelical~3–5 %
No declared religion / Non-religious~40–45 %
Agnostics~17–18 %
Atheists~4–5 %
Afro-Cuban practices (Santería, Palo, Vodú…)70% practice at least one rite
Regular consultations with a santero/paleroup to 80% according to some sources
Jehovah’s Witnesses~0.8–0.9 %
Muslims~0.1 %
Hindus~0.2 %
Jewsless than 0.1% (≈ 1,500 people in 2007)

Two useful observations for an expatriate:

Example:

In Cuba, declaring oneself Catholic does not necessarily mean practicing diligently; only a minority (about 1.5 to 5% of the population) regularly attends mass. Religious practice is often characterized by syncretism where individuals combine different elements: attending Christmas mass, consulting a Santería priest for a health problem, participating in a spiritist vigil, all while maintaining a critical discourse towards religious institutions.

In practice, you can find in the same family:

a grandmother deeply devoted to La Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre;

– an uncle who is a practicing “santero”;

– an evangelical cousin;

– a young adult who says they are atheist but wears Afro-Cuban protective necklaces.

Understanding this overlap of registers is key to avoiding snap judgments and awkward questions.

A State Officially Secular… but Politically Very Present

Since 1992, the Constitution defines Cuba as a secular state and prohibits discrimination based on religious beliefs. On paper, believers can join the Communist Party, which was impossible during the decades of official atheism.

Reality, however, remains regulated:

Attention:

All religious groups must legally register with the Office of Religious Affairs (ORA), under penalty of breaking the law. The state distinguishes between “tolerated” major churches and more monitored minority groups. Independent reports cite persistent practices of surveillance, pressure, intimidation, refusal of building permits, fines for “unauthorized” activities, and limitations on public processions or visits to prisoners.

For an expatriate, this means several concrete things:

– Ordinary religious practice (attending mass, participating in an Afro-Cuban celebration, visiting a synagogue or mosque) is possible and widespread.

– Religious activities that become “politicized” or carry a challenge to the system can be targeted by the authorities. As a foreigner, it is prudent never to be on the front line of these tensions.

– Major Catholic or popular celebrations (Marian processions, pilgrimages, saints’ feast days) coexist with purely political holidays (Triumph of the Revolution, National Rebellion Day), often given much more prominence in the public sphere.

Catholicism in Cuba: Massive Presence, Minority Practice

Historically established since Spanish colonization, the Catholic Church remains the most visible religious reference: monumental cathedrals, Marian processions, Christmas celebrations reinstated as holidays in the late 1990s, highly publicized papal visits.

A Still Highly Structured Church

It is estimated there are over six million Catholics, about 60% of the population, although regular practitioners are far fewer. The Church is organized into 11 dioceses (including 3 archdioceses: Havana, Camagüey, Santiago de Cuba), with:

Catholic Infrastructure and PersonnelApproximate Figures
Parishes304
Other pastoral centers2,210
Bishops17
Priests361
Religious brothers & sisters656
Major seminarians78
Minor seminarians13
Catechists4,133

The Church also manages social works (clinics, homes for the elderly, orphanages…) and some specialized educational centers, although denominational schools were nationalized in the 1960s and no longer function as they did before the Revolution.

What This Means for an Expatriate

In daily life, you will encounter: friends, family, colleagues, neighbors, strangers. Each brings their share of interactions and experiences.

cathedrals open daily, free to enter, with well-attended Sunday mass;

– small neighborhood chapels, often full on Sunday mornings;

images of the Virgin of Caridad del Cobre in buses, taxis, barbershops, and living rooms.

Practical points of attention:

Tip:

For a respectful visit to the island’s churches, modest attire is expected: cover shoulders and knees. Men should avoid caps and shorts for mass, opting for a light shirt and linen pants. Women should choose a dress, skirt, or light pants with a modest blouse. Be discreet: maintain silence, avoid walking around during communion, and do not photograph worshippers without permission. During mass in Spanish, follow the congregation’s movements to sit and stand; simply remain seated if you do not take communion.

For expatriate believers, parishes are a good place for socialization: catechism, young adult groups, charitable works, choirs. But it is advisable to observe first, understand local political sensitivities, and avoid getting into the heart of highly polarizing topics (embargo, political prisoner situation, internal Church debates).

Santería and Afro-Cuban Religions: A Universe Everyone Encounters

It is impossible to understand religious life in Cuba without looking at Santería and other Afro-Cuban currents (Palo Monte, Abakuá, Cuban Vodú). Even if you do not seek to participate, you will see their manifestations everywhere: colorful necklaces, domestic altars, public rituals, drum music.

Where Does Santería Come From?

Santería, often called Regla de Ocha or religión lucumí, was born from the forced encounter between:

Yoruba traditions from West Africa (mainly from present-day Nigeria and Benin), imported with the slave trade between the 16th and 19th centuries;

the Catholicism imposed by Spanish colonizers;

– elements of spiritism and indigenous beliefs.

Yoruba slaves covered their deities (orichas or orishas) with images of Catholic saints to continue practicing under the guise of Catholicism. This is where the name “Santería“, literally “religion of the saints,” comes from.

Today, even though Santería is more accepted, it retains an element of discretion: no central hierarchy, worship organized around house-temples (ilé or casa de santo), primarily oral transmission.

Some Markers to Decode What You’ll See

Cubans readily talk about: music, dance, culture, and daily life. They often share experiences about hospitality and food, as well as topics like politics and the history of their country.

Orichas: intermediary deities, linked to forces of nature and character traits. Some common correspondences:

Oricha (Santería)Domain / Main SymbolCommon ColorsAssociated Catholic Saint
EleguáCrossroads, beginnings, luck, messengerBlack and redNiño de Atocha
ChangóLightning, fire, virility, warRed and whiteSaint Barbara
YemayáSea, motherhood, fertilityBlue and whiteVirgin of Regla
OchúnRivers, love, sensuality, wealthYellowVirgin of Caridad del Cobre
ObataláCreation, justice, peaceWhiteVirgin of la Merced
Babalú AyéSickness, epidemics, healingBrown, violetSaint Lazarus
OyáWinds, cemeteries, transformationMulticoloredVarious figures, sometimes Saint Teresa

Aché: spiritual force that flows through the world, in sacred objects, the blood of sacrifices, offerings.

Misas espirituales: spiritism sessions, often at home, where one communicates with the dead (egun).

Toque de santo: ceremony of sacred drums (batá), songs, and dances, which can lead to states of trance and possession.

How This Manifests in Daily Life

For an expatriate, several elements frequently recur:

Example:

In private and public spaces, several elements testify to the practice of Santería. One can observe domestic altars mixing images of saints, candles, flowers, glasses of water, and colorful oricha statues. Initiates are recognizable by their necklaces of beads in specific colors or, for new initiates (iyawó), by wearing entirely white clothes for a year. Finally, offerings (ebbó) like small bundles, bottles of rum, fruit, or cigars are often left at the foot of a tree, at a crossroads, or on the shore for the deities or spirits.

Even if you stay outside these practices, you will regularly be invited to “respect the saints”: avoid sitting on an altar, do not touch ritual objects, do not laugh during a trance, do not photograph a ceremony without explicit consent.

To Participate or Not: How to Make the Right Moves

As an expatriate, you may be invited to:

Example:

In Santería, spiritual practices include participating in a misa espiritual (spiritual session) at friends’ homes, experiencing a toque de santo (ritual possession by a deity), and consulting a babalawo (high priest of Ifá) or a santero to resolve health, love, or work problems.

Some basic principles:

– Ask clearly if you are invited as an observer or as a full participant.

– Adopt modest attire, avoid anything too tight or too short; white is generally well-regarded, black can be negatively connoted depending on the rite.

– Do not enter the central ritual space without being invited, and let the officiants guide you (where to sit, when to stand, what you can or cannot do).

– Never photograph without explicit permission; some rituals are considered strictly private, others accept photos at specific times.

Even if you are invited to participate in an animal sacrifice (matanza), you can politely decline, explaining that you prefer to observe from the outside. Cubans are generally accustomed to foreigners’ sensitivities on this point.

Protestant Churches and Other Minorities: Discretion and Vitality

Beyond Catholicism and Afro-Cuban religions, Cuba is home to a mosaic of smaller communities: Baptist, Pentecostal, Adventist, Presbyterian, Methodist, Anglican churches, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Jews, Muslims, Hindus, spiritism practitioners, etc.

Protestantism: Growth Under Surveillance

Protestant churches represent approximately 3 to 5% of the population according to estimates, but they are often dynamic, especially evangelical and Pentecostal currents. One finds:

official temples in cities;

– a large network of “houses of prayer” (house churches) where believers meet in small numbers.

These communities can be excellent places for integration for a Christian expatriate: warm welcome, strong cohesion, material support.

Practical side:

Good to know:

Attire for services is generally more conservative than in Catholicism; avoid flip-flops, tank tops, and very short clothing. Services are participatory, including spontaneous songs and prayers. Some groups strictly forbid alcohol, tobacco, and sometimes dancing; observe practices before inviting a member to a festive outing.

Jehovah’s Witnesses, Adventists, Orthodox, LDS…

Other Christian groups are present:

Jehovah’s Witnesses: approximately 96,000 active “publishers” according to recent data; they were banned in the 1970s then tolerated again from the 1990s. They practice discreetly and can be subject to discrimination.

Seventh-day Adventists: several tens of thousands of members, an active seminary, a significant presence in some provinces.

Greek and Russian Orthodox Churches: visible mainly in Havana, with beautiful churches inaugurated in the early 2000s.

Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormons): small presence, not officially recognized as an autonomous denomination.

Good to know:

For expatriates belonging to minority religious traditions, it is generally possible to find a community, especially in the capital. However, this often involves adapting to a more state-regulated framework and sometimes reduced visibility.

Judaism, Islam, Hinduism: Small Communities, Often Open Welcome

Cuba had more than 24,000 Jews in the 1920s; the majority emigrated after the Revolution. There would be around 1,500 Jews left, mostly in Havana, with synagogues like Beth Shalom. The Jewish community is known for its hospitality: some synagogues open their doors to visitors, provided basic rules are respected (appropriate attire, no photos during services without agreement, respect for Shabbat).

Islam is represented by a few thousand people, often converts, and by foreign students. A Muslim prayer room opened in Havana in 2015, and a first mosque is under construction with support from Turkey. Here too, modest attire, removing shoes in the prayer room, and respecting the separation of men/women are mandatory.

Hinduism and Buddhism remain very numerically minor but illustrate the island’s progressive opening to greater religious diversity.

Dress Codes and Attitudes: What Is Expected of an Expatriate

The heat and humidity naturally push towards shorts and flip-flops; yet, Cuban culture retains a conservative foundation, especially in religious contexts.

For Churches and Christian Ceremonies

Generally:

Men: long pants (khaki, linen, “safari”), collared shirt (polo, traditional guayabera). T-shirts, shorts, and caps are to be avoided during a service. Closed-toe shoes are recommended.

Women: dresses or skirts above the knees are discouraged, better to have length at knee-level or below; tops covering shoulders, no plunging necklines. Clean sandals are acceptable, but avoid beach flip-flops.

Good to know:

Cubans place great importance on proper attire for going to church, even with modest means. Therefore, arriving in beachwear is perceived as a lack of respect.

For Afro-Cuban Rituals

The codes vary by rite, but some customs are frequent:

Tip:

To participate in a ritual, it is advisable to avoid black clothing, unless its use is explicitly requested for the occasion. Opt for simple, solid-colored outfits, with white often appreciated for its symbolism of purity and protection. Inside ritual spaces, remove hats, caps, and sunglasses, unless instructed otherwise. Finally, refrain from touching other participants’ necklaces, bracelets, or personal objects without being invited to do so.

Visiting Believing Families

When you are invited to the homes of Church or Santería house members:

bring a small gift (chocolates, coffee, something simple from your country);

accept with gratitude any offered drinks or snacks, even if it’s just very sweet coffee or a piece of bread—abruptly refusing can be perceived as an offense;

– in many families, the TV stays on, children pass through, neighbors come in: don’t be bothered, it’s the local mode of sociability.

Talking (or Not) About Religion: A Sensitive Conversation

Another essential point for expatriates: religion is both very present and often sensitive. The advice of many intercultural guides for Cuba is clear: it is better to avoid spontaneously bringing up religious or political topics in casual conversation.

Why?

Attention:

Cuba’s recent history shows a close link between faith and political contestation, with priests engaged against Batista and then in post-revolutionary dialogue. Today, evangelical churches are at the center of sensitive societal debates (family, LGBT+ rights, abortion). Meanwhile, Afro-Cuban religions, long criminalized and stigmatized as “witchcraft,” mean many practitioners remain wary.

To navigate without offending:

– start with cultural questions: “What does this procession mean for you?”, “How is September 8th celebrated here?” rather than “Do you really believe in orichas?”;

– avoid any tone of judgment or comparison with “back home”;

– accept that some may not wish to discuss their religious practice, even if they otherwise happily take you to see a procession.

If a bond of trust forms, you will often be told very personal stories: healings attributed to Babalú Ayé, dreams interpreted by a santero, evangelical conversions, disillusionment towards the Party or the Church.

Major Religious Dates and How They Affect You

The official Cuban calendar emphasizes revolutionary commemorations, but several religious holidays structure social life and may interest expatriates.

Here are some useful markers:

Holiday / PeriodTypeWhat You’ll See / Impact for an Expatriate
Christmas (December 25)ChristianPublic holiday since 1998, church services, fairly sober atmosphere.
Holy Week and Good FridayChristianLocal processions, parish celebrations; some parades are sometimes limited by authorities.
September 8 – Virgin of CaridadCatholic & SanteríaMajor national holiday for Cuba’s patroness / Ochún; masses, offerings, pilgrimages.
December 17 – San Lázaro / Babalú AyéPopular & SanteríaMassive pilgrimage to the El Rincón sanctuary, promises, penances.
July Carnivals (Santiago…)Traditional, Afro-CubanParades, music, dance, strong Afro-Cuban references.

Some dates have a strong syncretic dimension: September 8, for example, is both the feast of the Virgin of Caridad del Cobre (Catholic) and that of the goddess Ochún (Santería). You will see women in yellow, processions with statues of the Virgin, offerings of honey, flowers, necklaces.

Example:

For an expatriate, local or national holidays are good times to discover the host country’s culture, meet locals and other expatriates, and thus facilitate integration. For example, participating in celebrations like Christmas, New Year’s, or specific traditional festivals allows for building connections and better understanding customs.

observe religious diversity: Catholics, santeros, the curious, tourists mingle;

practice caution: some parades may be canceled or scaled back by authorities, especially if they take a turn deemed too confrontational;

avoid blunders: do not mock penances (pilgrims walking on their knees, carrying heavy crosses, etc.), do not interrupt prayers.

Religious Freedom and Red Lines: What an Expatriate Must Keep in Mind

Recent international reports describe an ambivalent situation: compared to the 1960s-1980s, religious freedom has clearly improved, but numerous restrictions remain.

Some useful realities to know:

– Religious leaders of all faiths still report regular pressure: summons by police, threats, close surveillance, defamation campaigns on official social media, blocking of social or charitable projects.

– Groups that refuse to comply with the registration system, like the Free Yoruba Association of Cuba, report arbitrary arrests and intimidation.

– The creation of religious associations completely independent of the state is virtually impossible legally; current law on associations effectively excludes autonomous religious organizations.

As a foreigner:

Attention:

You are not operating in a neutral environment: religion can be instrumentalized for political purposes. It is therefore crucial to maintain distance from faith-based activist initiatives and avoid any intermediary role (financial or logistical) for religious activities that could be perceived as political interference.

This does not prevent you from:

participating in celebrations;

joining a parish or community to pray;

volunteering in social works linked to a Church, with clear agreement from local leaders and in compliance with Cuban rules.

Practical Advice for Integrating Without Missteps

Everything above can be condensed into a few concrete reflexes for an expatriate concerned with respecting local religious practices.

Observe Before Speaking

Whether in a cathedral, an evangelical temple, a Santería ilé, or a synagogue:

– take time to watch what the faithful do;

– imitate “neutral” gestures (standing, sitting, removing headwear) and refrain from specific ritual gestures you don’t understand;

– keep your phone silent and put away; a simple camera click at the wrong time can be perceived as very intrusive.

Asking Questions… But at the Right Time

After the ceremony, many Cubans will be delighted to explain what you saw. The right tone:

Good to know:

Prefer open-ended questions (e.g., ‘How did you learn these songs?’). Avoid judgmental questions (‘Why do you do that? It’s irrational…’). Accept that some answers will refer to ‘mysteries’ or ‘family traditions’ without detailed theological justification.

Managing Your Own Religious Identity

If you are a believer yourself:

Tip:

Before your departure, research the presence of your religious community in Cuba (parishes, synagogues, mosques, specific churches). Develop a realistic plan to maintain your practices, such as personal prayer, reading, or online participation in celebrations in your home country. Finally, be prepared to briefly explain your beliefs without aggressive proselytism and to accept that they may be unknown or misunderstood.

If you are non-believing:

– you have no need to “pretend,” but maintain respect for places and people: do not joke about saints, orichas, rites, even if they seem exotic or folkloric to you;

– if you are offered a blessing, a sign of the cross, protection from a santero, you can accept it as a gesture of goodwill, or decline tactfully (“thank you, but I prefer not to do a ritual, I greatly respect your faith”).

Religion, Social Life, and Cuban Identity: What You Will Eventually See

Over time, you will notice that religion in Cuba is neither reducible to dogma nor to institutions. It permeates:

lyrics of songs mentioning saints, orichas, miracles;

clothing colors chosen on a particular day “for protection”;

everyday expressions: “Si Dios quiere”, “Con la bendición de la Virgen”, “Eso fue Changó”.

In popular neighborhoods, it is not uncommon for the same person to:

go to mass for a Marian feast;

consult a santero when a child falls ill inexplicably;

listen attentively to an evangelical pastor preaching in the square.

Good to know:

For an expatriate, it is advisable to accept the fluidity of local practices and beliefs without trying to classify them according to strict Western categories (like Catholic/practicing or believer/non-believer). This approach is often the key to a finer understanding of the country.

Ultimately, respecting local religious practices in Cuba does not require theological erudition nor adherence to a belief system. It rather assumes:

an attentive sense of observation;

appropriate attire for sacred contexts;

– humble curiosity, without judgment;

– and the awareness that, on this island where the Revolution remains a major reference, faith can be at once a private refuge, a cultural heritage, a tool of resistance, and a vector of identity pride.

This nuanced perspective will help you not only avoid missteps, but above all to enter, with delicacy, into the complexity of a society where the “sacred” plays out as much on altars as in street conversations.

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About the author
Cyril Jarnias

Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.

On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.

Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.

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