Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Monaco means entering a world of yachts, palaces, and casinos. But behind the luxury storefronts, the Principality hides a genuine regional cuisine, shaped by the Mediterranean, Provence, and neighboring Italy. For an expat, understanding this culinary culture, knowing where to eat without blowing the budget, and how to adopt local customs is almost as important as finding an apartment.
This guide covers all of Monegasque gastronomy, from markets and traditional specialties to Michelin-starred restaurants and affordable spots. It includes price ranges and practical advice for making the right choices.
Understanding Monaco’s Culinary DNA
Before choosing a restaurant, you need to grasp what makes Monegasque cuisine unique. We’re talking about a “sun-drenched cuisine“: lots of vegetables, fish, olive oil, aromatic herbs, and a strong Niçoise and Italian influence.
Monaco is tiny – less than 0.8 square miles – but its culinary history is long. The Greeks brought vines and olive trees here over 2,000 years ago, the Romans were already buying olive oil, wine, and lemons, and the peasant cuisine long relied on products from the surrounding countryside: wheat, legumes, fruit, olives, fish.
This is the price in euros for a tasting menu offered by starred chefs like Alain Ducasse in Monaco.
To visualize this mix of local roots and neighboring influences, we can summarize as follows:
| Key Element | Main Influence | Impact on the Plate |
|---|---|---|
| Mediterranean Sea | Fish, Seafood | Bouillabaisse, stocafi, grilled fish |
| Provence / Nice | Provençal and Niçoise cuisine | Ratatouille, socca, pissaladière, daube |
| Northern Italy | Ligurian and Piedmontese tradition | Fresh pasta, Swiss chard pies, pasqualina |
| “Gastronomic” France | Haute cuisine, techniques, table service | Starred menus, meticulous plating, spectacular dining rooms |
For an expat, this dual identity – popular Mediterranean cuisine and highly codified haute gastronomy – is at the heart of daily life: buying vegetables at La Condamine, snacking on socca at lunch, and inviting friends to a trattoria or bistronomic brasserie in the evening.
Must-Know Monegasque Specialties
Discovering Monaco through its food first means learning to recognize its iconic dishes. Some come directly from Monegasque tradition, others are Niçoise or Provençal, but all are omnipresent in restaurants and at market stalls.
Barbajuan, Fougasse, and Stocafi: The Identity Trio
The most emblematic dish is probably the barbajuan (or barbagiuan, depending on sources). It’s a fried beignet or ravioli, usually stuffed with Swiss chard, ricotta, onions, herbs, sometimes rice or pumpkin. It’s eaten hot, often as a starter or snack. It’s considered a true “national dish” and is very present during the National Day celebrations on November 19th.
Unlike the savory Provençal fougasse, the Monegasque version is a sweet brioche, flavored with orange blossom and anise. It’s enriched with almonds, dried fruit, and raisins, and decorated with red and white anise seeds. Traditionally, it is inseparable from Christmas celebrations, where it is shared with family.
Stocafi (or stockfish) is another pillar, less glamorous but very typical: a stew of dried cod or stockfish, soaked for a long time and then simmered in a tomato sauce with garlic, black olives, capers, bay leaf, sometimes white wine. Traditionally, it’s served on Fridays and during certain religious holidays, especially at Christmas.
Socca, Pissaladière, Swiss Chard Pies: The Bridge with Nice
Due to proximity with the French Riviera, several Niçoise dishes are part of the culinary landscape in Monaco.
Socca is a large, thin chickpea flour crepe, cooked on a griddle with plenty of olive oil. Gluten-free, rich in plant-based protein, it’s eaten piping hot, in strips, often from a paper cone.
Pissaladière is a thick tart based on long-cooked onions, traditionally topped with anchovies and black olives. In Monaco, there is sometimes a variant including tomatoes. This dish is a staple at cocktail buffets, where it’s usually served cut into squares.
Swiss chard pies or chard pies (zucchini pie, pasqualina…) combine Swiss chard, eggs, cheese, sometimes rice or pine nuts in an olive oil pastry. They can be found on market stalls as well as in neighborhood brasseries.
A Cuisine of Vegetables, Fish, and Olive Oil
If we had to summarize the local cuisine in a few ingredients, we would first talk about sun-drenched vegetables (zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, bell peppers, artichokes, fennel), fruit (Menton lemons, figs, apricots, melons), Mediterranean fish (sea bass, red mullet, scorpionfish, conger eel, octopus, anchovies) and olive oil.
Bouillabaisse, ratatouille, beef daube, pistou soup, Salade Niçoise, Niçoise stuffed vegetables, zucchini flower fritters… so many dishes you’ll regularly see on menus, sometimes reinterpreted by contemporary chefs.
To better navigate, here is a summary table of the main specialties every expat should try at least once:
| Specialty | Dish Type | Main Ingredients | Where to Find It Easily |
|---|---|---|---|
| Barbajuan | Savory fritter | Swiss chard, ricotta, herbs, fried pastry | La Condamine Market, bakeries, bistros |
| Monegasque Fougasse | Sweet brioche | Brioche, orange blossom, anise, almonds | Local patisseries, holiday periods |
| Stocafi | Fish stew | Dried cod, tomato, olives, garlic, bay leaf | Traditional restaurants, especially on Fridays |
| Socca | Chickpea crepe | Chickpea flour, water, olive oil | Markets, street food stands |
| Pissaladière | Savory tart | Caramelized onions, anchovies, olives, pastry | Bakeries, markets, snack bars |
| Pasqualina / Swiss Chard Pie | Savory pie | Swiss chard, eggs, cheese, sometimes rice | Markets, trattorias, family-style tables |
Markets: The Best Starting Point for Eating Local Without Breaking the Bank
For an expat discovering the Principality, markets are the key to understanding how Monegasques eat – and to enjoying quality meals without succumbing to palace prices.
La Condamine: The Gourmet Heart of the City
The Marché de La Condamine, on Place d’Armes, is the essential address. Inaugurated in 1880, it combines a covered section, outdoor stalls, and a modern gourmet hall. You’ll find:
– Produce vendors offering seasonal fruits and vegetables, often from the surrounding countryside.
– Fishmongers with Mediterranean products.
– Butchers, cheesemongers, bakers.
– And above all, a food hall area where you can eat on-site at very reasonable prices.
In this market, small stalls offer local specialties and daily specials at very competitive prices for Monaco, ranging from €7 to €25. You’ll find, notably, La Maison des Pâtes, official supplier to the princely family since 1977, serving fresh pasta in this price range.
The market is open every day from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Nearby, cafés and brasseries complete the offering, making it a real hub of local life, sometimes with entertainment, concerts, Oktoberfest, and other events organized by the town hall.
Marché de Monte-Carlo: A Favorite with Locals
On Avenue Saint-Charles, the Marché de Monte-Carlo is more intimate but just as interesting. Again, it’s a covered market, open daily from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., more oriented towards “producers”: fruit, vegetables, meat, charcuterie, cheese, bread, regional specialties.
The stalls are full of typical products: tapenades, terrines, olive bread, olive oils, herbes de Provence, artisanal charcuterie. A nearby parking lot offers the first hour free, which is not insignificant if you come by car.
Petit Marché de Monaco-Ville: The Neighborhood Option
More recent, the small market in Monaco-Ville, on the Rock, is still modest – just one stall for now – but it’s part of the city’s plan to bring neighborhood life back to the old town. In time, an area for artisans is to be added, making it a good address for expats living on the Rock or who enjoy strolling there.
Why Markets Are Strategic for Expats
For a foreign resident, these markets are valuable for several reasons:
Discover the advantages of Monegasque markets for an authentic, economical, and tasty experience.
They allow you to eat healthily and locally, without paying restaurant markups.
They provide access to typical cuisine (barbajuans, fougasse, socca, pissaladière) for just a few euros.
They are an excellent place to practice French and meet vendors who quickly become familiar faces.
They make the “picnic mode” possible in gardens (Saint-Martin, Jardin Exotique) or on Larvotto Beach, ideal for saving on meals.
Additionally, a Casino supermarket on Boulevard Albert 1er and a large Carrefour in the Fontvieille shopping center complement the offering for everyday groceries.
Eating on a Low to Mid-Range Budget: Yes, It’s Possible in Monaco
Monaco’s reputation as an ultra-expensive destination is not entirely undeserved, but it masks a more nuanced reality. By moving slightly away from the most expensive areas and targeting certain types of establishments, an expatriate can eat well on a reasonable budget.
Price Ranges for Guidance
We can outline some useful price ranges, based on available information:
| Type of Meal / Place | Indicative Range Per Person |
|---|---|
| Bakery breakfast | €6.50 – €9 (drink + pastry + sandwich combo) |
| Coffee + pastry at the counter | €3 – €5 |
| Snack like panini / wrap / pizza slice | €5 – €10 |
| Main course in a simple brasserie | €12 – €20 |
| Daily special in a neighborhood restaurant | €10 – €15 |
| Full meal in a “recommended budget” restaurant | €12 – €30 |
| Lunch in a good bistronomic brasserie | €20 – €40 |
| Dinner in a good non-starred restaurant | €60 – €100 |
| Tasting menu in a starred restaurant | €150 – €500 depending on stars |
To this, add some useful comparisons: a Big Mac meal around €8, a classic burger at Grubers for €9 (€12 for a truffle version), a dish at Tip Top (Salade Niçoise €12, bouillabaisse €18), or a main course around €12–€18 at Restaurant Saint Nicolas.
The Most Affordable Neighborhoods
Three areas clearly stand out for eating at gentler prices:
– Place d’Armes and La Condamine: market, stalls, small brasseries, wine bars.
– Rue Grimaldi: neighborhood restaurants, pizzerias, less “bling” cafés.
– Around Port Hercule (excluding the flashiest terraces): a few spots with good value for money.
In contrast, the area around the Casino, the Carré d’Or, and some establishments in Larvotto have higher prices, even for simple dishes.
Some Useful Types of Spots for Everyday Life
In an expat’s life, not everything happens in fine dining restaurants. You also need to think “practical”: bakeries for breakfast, snack bars for a quick lunch, cafés to work or meet friends.
Among the interesting options:
– Bakery-patisseries (Riviera, Cova, Gildo in Fontvieille, Maison Mullot) for pastries, sandwiches, salads.
– Sandwich and panini bars (Panino Club on Boulevard des Moulins, WAM at Park Palace) for deals around €10–€18.90.
– Cafés with brunch / breakfast offers, like Espresso Napoletano on Boulevard d’Italie (avocado toast with salmon €10).
– “Healthy” spots like Woo in La Condamine (poke bowls, salads, meals under €25) or Eola on Place d’Armes (toasts, poke, açaí bowls).
These places quickly become go-to spots for residents who work in the area or are looking for an alternative to hotel dining.
Temples of Haute Cuisine: How to Enjoy Them Smartly
It would be a shame to live in Monaco without ever setting foot in one of its prestigious tables. The Principality concentrates an impressive number of Michelin-starred restaurants, considering its size.
Some Big Names
Among the most prominent addresses, we can mention:
Discover a selection of Michelin-starred gourmet restaurants in Monaco, combining culinary excellence and unique experiences.
Three Michelin stars at Hôtel de Paris. Mediterranean cuisine of great finesse. Tasting menus from around €210.
One star at Hôtel Hermitage, led by Yannick Alléno. Technical French cuisine (extractions, fermentations). Menus from €150.
Two stars at Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort. Chef Marcel Ravin fuses Caribbean and Mediterranean flavors. Menus €170–€195.
One star at Rampoldi. A marriage of Italian inspiration and the South of France. Menus from €170.
One-star Japanese restaurant at Hôtel Métropole, led by chef Takeo Yamazaki.
To these tables, add high-end brasseries like the Café de Paris Monte-Carlo (historic brasserie, famous for the crêpe Suzette invented here in the late 19th century) or Le Grill, atop the Hôtel de Paris, one star, panoramic view, and wood-fire cooking.
Take Advantage of Lunch Menus
For an expat who wants to discover these institutions without derailing their monthly budget, one strategy works well: aim for lunch menus. In many fine dining restaurants, lunch service is 30 to 40% cheaper than dinner, for a very similar (if not identical in the kitchen, with slightly less ceremony) experience.
The cost of a gourmet meal can vary considerably, especially between an occasional lunch at a starred restaurant and a full dinner with wine pairing, as adding wines à la carte often significantly increases the final bill.
Dress Code and Reservations: The Codes to Respect
Monaco’s gastronomic scene remains very codified. In palace hotels and high-end restaurants:
– Reservations are essential, often several weeks in advance for the most sought-after tables.
– Dress code is smart: jacket for men, elegant attire for women; shorts, flip-flops, beachwear are prohibited.
– Service follows French etiquette rules: multiple courses, cutlery from the outside in, bread on a side plate, etc.
Even if you come from a more relaxed culture, adopting this rigor is seen as a mark of respect – and facilitates integration.
Bistronomy, Trattorias, and Neighborhood Restaurants: The Residents’ Daily Grind
Between palace dining rooms and market snack bars, a vast mid-range allows you to eat well in pleasant settings without necessarily aiming for the exceptional.
French Bistronomy and Market Cuisine
Several “bistronomic” addresses offer careful cuisine that is less intimidating than starred establishments:
– Chez Pierre, in Monte-Carlo, run by Pierre Baldelli and his family, offers a chic Parisian bistro atmosphere, with signature dishes like sea bass fillet or dark chocolate quenelles. Expect €30–€60 per person.
– Le Petit Bar, on the Rock (Rue Basse), serves hearty French cuisine, like guinea fowl leg, for €30–€60.
– Azzurra Kitchen, at Novotel Monte-Carlo, blends Mediterranean inspirations and a kids’ menu, with a range of €20–€90 depending on choices and drinks.
Addresses like Huit et Demi, offering Franco-Italian fusion with main courses around €15–€20 and desserts at €6–€8, or the Tip Top bistro, serving a Salade Niçoise at €12 and bouillabaisse at €18, illustrate affordable options for weekday lunches.
The Italian Galaxy: A Pillar of Daily Life
The Italian influence is omnipresent: trattorias, pizzerias, pasta bars number in the dozens. Among the most notable:
– Il Terrazzino (Neapolitan bistronomy, €20–€60), very popular for its generous cuisine.
– Graziella in Fontvieille (€20–€70), which plays the homemade card.
– Giacomo, on Boulevard du Larvotto, affiliated with the Big Mamma group, in a bright trattoria style (around €30–€40).
– Pizzeria Monegasque in La Condamine, with dishes around €15–€20.
– Nonna Maria, Nonna Francesca, Amici Miei, La Reginella: so many Italian addresses dotted around the Principality.
For an expat, these restaurants often become comfortable refuges: familiar cuisine, friendly atmosphere, predictable bill.
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Fish, Meat, and Fusion
Fish lovers will find happiness at La Rose des Vents (Larvotto), Les Perles de Monte-Carlo (Fontvieille, with its oysters from an aquaculture farm founded in 2011) or in brasseries like La Marée, overlooking Port Hercule.
Carnivores will turn more to Beefbar Monaco, a Fontvieille steakhouse offering very high-end beef cuts (including Kobe), for €25–€60 depending on the cut.
For world cuisines, Maya Bay (Japanese and Thai), Coya Monte-Carlo (Peruvian), Nobu Monte Carlo (Japanese-Peruvian fusion at the Fairmont) or Buddha-Bar (Asian with DJ sets) testify to the eclecticism of the culinary scene.
Eating Healthy, Sustainable, and “Local”: A Real Groundswell Movement
Despite the Principality’s bling-bling image, the question of sustainability is taken seriously. Several elements converge:
Many restaurants now prioritize seasonal and local products. Monaco has even been commended by the WWF for removing Atlantic bluefin tuna from all its menus as long as stocks remain fragile.
Prince Albert II and his foundation
Restaurants like Elsa (100% organic at Monte-Carlo Beach), or more casual concepts like Woo Monaco, Eola, or Supernature (a wine bar focused on natural wines and light cuisine) embody this green shift. Some establishments obtain certifications like Ecocert to attest to their responsible practices.
For an expat sensitive to these issues, this means it’s possible to combine gastronomic pleasure and ethical choices, provided you read menus carefully and don’t hesitate to ask about product origins.
Adopting the Codes: Table Etiquette, Tipping, and Behavior
Integrating into Monaco isn’t just about knowing the best restaurants; it’s also about mastering the social rules surrounding meals.
At the Table: A Few Implicit Rules
In restaurants as in private homes, it’s generally expected that everyone is served (or that the host gives the signal) before starting to eat. Saying “Bon appétit” is almost mandatory. Avoid putting elbows on the table, talking with your mouth full, or reaching over plates: ask for a dish to be passed instead.
In fine dining restaurants, certain customs are considered markers of good manners: respecting the order of cutlery, tearing your bread (not cutting it with a knife) and, in case of a temporary absence, leaving your napkin on your chair.
Tipping: No Pressure, But an Appreciated Gesture
Most of the time, service (around 15%) is already included in the bill. Leaving an additional tip is therefore optional, but well-regarded if the service was attentive: rounding up to the nearest euro or adding 5–10% in a good restaurant is always appreciated.
For a taxi, rounding up or leaving 5% of the fare is a courteous gesture, not systematically expected.
Behavior and Discretion
Monaco cultivates a real culture of discretion: intrusive photos, phones on speakerphone, loud volume are frowned upon, especially in chic establishments. The law is even strict on certain aspects (paparazzi are forbidden, for example).
In public places, avoid appearing drunk, walking bare-chested outside beaches, or arriving in beachwear at restaurants. The line between “vacation” style and attire considered inappropriate is stricter here than elsewhere on the Côte d’Azur.
Cooking for Yourself and Improving: Classes, Workshops, and Home Cooking
For an expat, the best way to embrace the local gastronomy is often to get hands-on. Several options exist, in Monaco itself and neighboring towns (Nice, Cap d’Ail).
Workshops with Palace Hotel Chefs
Some chefs open their kitchens to the public:
Discover a selection of unique culinary experiences offered by the Principality’s grand hotels, for learning and savoring.
Cooking and pastry classes with chef Marcel Ravin at the Las Brisas restaurant at Monte-Carlo Bay. Available from October to April.
Once a month on Saturdays at Buddha-Bar. Introduction to sushi preparation followed by tasting and a glass of wine.
At Méridien Beach Plaza, with chef Jimmy Desrivières at L’Intempo. Cooking, oenology, and cocktail creation classes.
Program for children (6-10 years) at Hôtel Métropole, supervised by pastry chef Patrick Mesiano. Making cupcakes, personalized chocolate eggs, and more.
These experiences have a cost, but they offer privileged access to the techniques and products used by the grand hotels.
In-Home Classes and Plant-Based Cooking
Platforms like Miummium allow you to book a private chef for an in-home cooking class. Prices average around $60 per person for a group of eight, but can vary widely depending on the chef’s profile.
Monaco Green Gourmet (MGG Monaco) offers entirely plant-based cooking classes, associated with wellness coaching. The organization also provides private chef and catering services for events.
Expanding Your Horizons: Nice, Cap d’Ail, and Beyond
A few minutes away by train or car, Nice is full of cooking schools: Les Petits Farcis (classes focused on Niçoise culture, including a market visit), Cuisine sur Cours (classes for all), L’Atelier Cuisine Niçoise in the old town’s former Senate building, or pastry classes like those at Du Goût & des Autres.
Cap d’Ail hosts a school specialized in pizza, the École Française de Pizzaïolo, which trains both professionals and passionate amateurs.
For an expat based in Monaco, these culinary excursions complement the discovery of local restaurants well, giving you the keys to recreate barbajuans, pies, or ratatouille at home.
Festivals, Gourmet Events, and the Annual Culinary Calendar
Throughout the year, the Principality and the neighboring Riviera organize many events centered on gastronomy and regional products.
Monte-Carlo Gastronomie and Other Shows
The Monte-Carlo Gastronomie show, at Espace Fontvieille, brings together over a hundred exhibitors from France, Italy, and Europe each year-end: wines, champagnes, foie gras, salmon, truffles, caviar, cheeses, charcuterie, confectionery, kitchenware… The entrance ticket remains modest (€5), free for under 12s, and nearby parking lots offer deals (€5 for 3 hours).
The event offers daily demonstrations by chefs from Monaco and the Riviera’s luxury hotels, amateur competitions (Maestro Chef and Maestro Kids), as well as workshops and tastings. For an expat, it’s an ideal opportunity to discover a wide variety of products and identify local artisans.
Cuisine and Yachting, Chocolate, and “Starred” Events
The Superyacht Chef Competition, organized by the Yacht Club de Monaco, showcases chefs from yachts over 40 meters, who must cook under the eye of a professional jury. Spectacular, it also gives an idea of the level of “behind-the-scenes” cuisine in the yachting world.
The Festival des Etoilés Monte-Carlo, for its part, orchestrates “four hands” dinners between starred chefs from the Principality and prestigious guests. These dinners are often booked up long in advance but they punctuate the local gastronomic life.
Chokolashow, a fun event centered on chocolate, launched its first edition with a Formula 1-inspired theme. It combined exhibitions, demonstrations, and tastings for visitors.
Christmas Markets and Seasonality
In December, the Monaco Christmas market almost always has a strong culinary presence: stalls with regional specialties, mulled wine, fougasse, festive products. At La Condamine, you’ll also find Christmas trees, seasonal products (mushrooms, chestnuts, new olive oil), and dishes like barbajuans, socca, brandaminciun, or cardoons in sauce.
Products follow the rhythm of the seasons: asparagus in spring, zucchini and eggplant in summer, squash and mushrooms in autumn, citrus and chestnuts in winter. Adapting your plate to this seasonality is a simple way to eat more flavorful, more sustainable, and often cheaper.
Practical Strategies for an Expat: Eating Well, Often, Without Excess
In summary, a few main guidelines emerge to reconcile pleasure, budget, and local integration.
First, make markets a weekly habit: La Condamine and the Marché de Monte-Carlo allow you to buy high-quality products, but also to eat on-site at a very contained price. Combining these purchases with picnics in gardens or on the beach is an excellent way to enjoy the Monegasque setting without eating at a restaurant every day.
This is the maximum price in euros for a quick bakery combo, still unbeatable compared to more expensive establishments.
For sit-down restaurants, choosing the right neighborhoods (La Condamine, Rue Grimaldi, certain streets in Fontvieille), aiming for daily specials (often between €10 and €15 at lunch), and opting for lunches at slightly higher-end tables allows you to experience the local gastronomy without turning every meal into a special event.
It is advisable to set aside a specific budget for a few exceptional culinary experiences each year, like a starred lunch, a dinner at Café de Paris, or a cooking class with a great chef. These memorable moments often enrich the expat experience more than everyday expenses, and allow you to grasp Monaco’s uniqueness on the global gastronomic scene.
By combining markets, brasseries, trattorias, starred tables, and home cooking, an expat can make Monegasque gastronomy not an occasional luxury, but a true art of daily living, rooted in the Mediterranean, open to the world, and attentive to the seasons and the sea that surrounds the Principality.
A 62-year-old retiree, with financial assets over one million euros well structured in Europe, wishes to transfer his tax residence to Monaco to reduce his tax burden, diversify his investments, and maintain close ties with France. Allocated budget: 10,000 euros for comprehensive support (international tax advice, administrative formalities, relocation, and wealth structuring), without forced asset sales.
After studying several destinations (Greece, Cyprus, Mauritius, other micro-states), the chosen strategy focuses on Monaco, attractive due to no income tax for non-French Monegasque residents, no wealth tax, a high-end banking environment, and great geographical and cultural proximity to France. The mission includes: pre-expatriation tax audit (exit tax, risks of abuse of law), obtaining a Monegasque residency permit with proof of housing and resources, transfer of banking and wealth management relationships, plan for breaking French tax ties (183 days outside France, center of economic interests in Monaco), coordination with local network (lawyers, private banks, family office) and optimization of wealth transfer (gifts, international succession) in a secure framework.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
