Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Peru is attracting a growing number of expatriates: affordable cost of living, spectacular landscapes, celebrated gastronomy, warm population. But behind this postcard image, reality is more nuanced. Urban crime, scams targeting foreigners, risks related to transportation or the healthcare system… all of this very much exists.
Most expatriates live in Peru without major incident, provided they know the concrete risks and adapt their habits. Pragmatic preparation, including an overview of security, a focus on expat life, key cities, and common scams, allows for a more peaceful relocation.
Understanding the Security Context in Peru
Peru is often presented as “safer” than some of its Andean neighbors, notably Colombia. This is true for some indicators, but misleading if one deduces it is a country “without problems”. Major Western countries (United States, Canada, United Kingdom, Spain, Italy, Sweden) recommend exercising increased caution due to crime, social tensions, and, in some areas, the risk of kidnapping.
Peru ranks 104th on the 2023 Global Peace Index. In large cities like Lima or Cusco, the main risks are theft, assaults, and scams. In some isolated valleys, such as the VRAEM, risks related to drug trafficking and the presence of armed groups are added.
The Peruvian government has, however, strengthened police patrols in major tourist areas in recent years, increased controls at Machu Picchu and in the Sacred Valley, and declared occasional states of emergency in Lima and Callao to combat violence. Result: the latest data indicates a 12% decrease in street theft in major tourist hubs and a 15% decrease in theft specifically targeting visitors since 2023.
Where to Live Safely: Overview of Cities and Neighborhoods
For a peaceful expatriation, the choice of city – and especially neighborhood – is decisive. The majority of expats are concentrated in Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa, with smaller pockets in Trujillo, Iquitos, or the Sacred Valley.
Lima: A Capital of Two Faces
Lima is both the economic heart of the country and the city with the most problematic crime rates. With nearly 10 million inhabitants spread across 43 districts, the safety gaps between neighborhoods are extreme. Some areas are to be avoided, others are among the safest in the country.
Expatriates are primarily concentrated in the following coastal and central districts, generally considered the safest:
– Miraflores
– San Isidro
– Barranco
– La Molina
– Santiago de Surco (Surco)
– Magdalena del Mar
– San Borja
– San Miguel
– Pueblo Libre
– Jesús María
Conversely, districts like Callao (around the port and airport), San Juan de Lurigancho, Rímac, La Victoria, Comas, Los Olivos, or Villa El Salvador are clearly to be avoided, especially at night.
Synthetic table cross-referencing safety and housing costs for an expatriate, with indicative rents for furnished apartments.
Cities offering a high level of security but with some of the highest rents for a furnished apartment.
Destinations combining good security with more affordable housing costs for the expatriate.
Cities where housing costs remain high despite a security level that may have some nuances.
A balance between acceptable security and reasonable rents, a category often sought after.
Economical destinations for housing, where security can vary greatly by neighborhood.
| District | Perceived Security Level | Recent Crime Trend | Monthly Rent Range (1-2 BR) | Typical Profile |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Miraflores | High | -12% property crimes (2025) | ~700–1,200 USD | Expats, tourists, digital nomads |
| San Isidro | Very High | Lowest violence rate in Lima | ~800–1,500 USD | Executives, embassies |
| Barranco | High | Rather calm neighborhood, especially towards the ocean | ~500–1,000 USD | Artists, creatives |
| Surco (Chacarilla…) | High | -15% burglaries in 2025 | ~600–1,200 USD (2 BR) | Families, middle/upper classes |
| La Molina | High | Low delinquency, gated communities | ~1,000–2,000 USD (3 BR houses) | Families with children |
| Magdalena del Mar | High | Safest district in Lima (INEI data) | ~500–900 USD | Middle classes |
| San Miguel | Medium to High | -18% street theft (2025) | ~450–850 USD | Students, young professionals |
| Pueblo Libre | High | 2nd safest district in Lima | ~450–800 USD | Families, seniors |
| Jesús María | Adequate | 14th rank in metropolitan safety | ~450–850 USD | Locals, some expats |
Local data shows how much some districts have invested in security: Miraflores has implemented a dense network of cameras with 24/7 surveillance in areas like Larcomar, the Malecón, or Kennedy Park, with an average response time under 5 minutes. San Isidro has developed a “secure quadrants” strategy with dedicated patrols, and 92% of its residents report feeling safe there. Magdalena del Mar even doubled its security budget, deploying drones and electric patrols, with a 22% drop in crimes on certain thoroughfares.
In these neighborhoods, the most frequent problems are pickpocketing or phone snatching, especially near main avenues and bus stops. Violent assaults remain rare in expat areas, but not nonexistent, particularly after dark.
Cusco, Arequipa, and Other Cities
Cusco, the former Inca capital and major tourist hub, attracts many expatriates, often working in tourism, teaching, or services for foreigners. Crime is present there – theft, pickpockets, scams – but in a proportion considered manageable with good cautionary habits. The city and the Sacred Valley (Urubamba, Pisac, Ollantaytambo) are not part of the very high-risk VRAEM zone, which reassures expats.
Arequipa, nicknamed the “White City,” offers a more peaceful and cheaper living environment than Lima, combining modern amenities and good quality of life. However, as elsewhere, foreign visitors are advised to remain vigilant, particularly against pickpockets in crowded places.
Other destinations host smaller communities: Trujillo on the north coast, Iquitos in the heart of the Amazon, Huaraz for mountain enthusiasts. The security level varies greatly from one neighborhood to another, and it is essential to exchange with residents, expat groups, or services like iPerú before settling there.
Crime: Realities to Know Before Moving
American and Canadian authorities speak of “widespread” crime in Peru. The range goes from opportunistic pickpocketing to intercity bus holdups, including “express kidnapping.” For an expatriate, the challenge is not to panic, but to understand frequent scenarios to adapt one’s behavior.
Theft, Pickpockets, and Assaults
In large cities like Lima, Cusco, or Arequipa, the most common offenses are:
– Pickpocketing on buses, metros, markets, stations, crowded parks
– Snatching bags or phones from a scooter or car, at traffic lights or on sidewalks
– Theft of purses or backpacks in cafes, hotel lobbies, restaurants
– Theft of luggage on intercity buses or in luggage compartments
A study by the Lima municipality indicates that 68% of thefts occur near major monuments during peak hours, when crowds are dense and tourists more distracted. Violent thefts (carjackings, armed assaults) exist, even during the day, but most are concentrated in disadvantaged districts or on certain peripheral roads.
“Express kidnapping”, a form of short-term kidnapping to force ATM withdrawals, is documented, notably via fake taxis. These cases remain a minority, but the risk is considered serious enough for embassies to mention it systematically in their advice.
Frequent Scams: How Foreigners Are Targeted
Peru is not immune to scammers’ creativity, and a minority of the population considers scamming tourists as a “minor offense” without a victim, imagining that insurance or “gringo money” will cover the loss. Expatriates, often perceived as wealthy, become prime targets, especially in their first months.
Here are some very common scenarios that deserve particular attention.
Taxis: A Major Source of Problems
Taxis are, by far, one of the most sensitive links in the everyday security chain:
When exiting airports and bus stations, be wary of unofficial drivers posing as authorized taxis. They use various scams: quoting an exorbitant fixed fare, changing an agreed price in soles to dollars multiplied by five, claiming the meter is broken to justify an abusive price, or claiming your accommodation is closed or dangerous to redirect you to an establishment that pays them a commission. Thefts, sometimes with violence, can also occur, notably around Jorge Chávez Airport and certain bus stations.
There are also more subtle small scams, like bill switching: you give a 50-sol bill, the driver discreetly replaces it with a 10-sol bill and claims you made a mistake. Hence the importance of always clearly stating the bill’s value when handing it over and keeping small bills.
Using apps like Uber, Cabify, or reputable companies (TaxiDatum, Taxi Satelital, Taxi Green at Lima airport, Taxi Green Cusco…) significantly reduces the risk: price fixed in advance, GPS tracking, written record of the trip. Even there, there are isolated cases of drivers demanding extra money claiming “the app made a mistake.” In that case, simply be firm and refuse.
“Emotional” and Street Scams
Some swindles rely on the visitor’s compassion or surprise:
Several scams target tourists in Peru. In Lima, the “baby formula” scam in parks involves an adult with a child asking you to buy very expensive formula at a pharmacy only to resell it; the children are often used as props. In Cusco, women offer photos with alpacas or llamas for 10-20 soles, but may exert strong pressure to get more money, and the animals are sometimes mistreated. Other scams include fake charity collections for orphanages and ‘free’ city tours that lead to aggressive timeshare presentations with predatory contracts.
Money, Currency Exchange, and Counterfeit Bills
Peru is one of the world’s main producers of counterfeit currency, in soles as well as dollars. Approximately 60% of counterfeit dollars in global circulation are believed to be manufactured in the country. In Cusco, street money changers sometimes use old currency (intis) to trick visitors.
Typical scenarios:
– A stranger offers to “help you out” by exchanging a 100-sol bill for smaller bills: in return, some of them are fake.
– An unofficial exchange bureau gives you questionable bills in exchange for foreign currency.
– Merchants give you change while slipping one or several counterfeit bills into the lot.
The Central Bank recommends the “touch, look, tilt” method to verify bills. The main defense remains to exchange your money at banks or official exchange bureaus, be careful with high-value bills, and demand another bill if you have any doubt about one you received.
Fake Police, Fake Guides, Fake Agencies
More concerning, individuals pose as police officers to check passports or tickets, either to steal or to extort “fines.” In Lima as in Cusco, cases of legitimate officers overstepping their authority and demanding money have also been reported. The golden rule is to never hand over money or original documents without verification, and to ask to go to the nearest police station if in doubt.
Nearly 80% of tour providers in Cusco operate without a license or insurance. This major risk can lead to canceled excursions without refunds, incompetent guides, dangerous equipment, and a total lack of coverage in case of an accident.
The same pattern occurs with unscrupulous travel agencies, notably in Lima, which collect large sums for tours or train tickets, then fail to provide the promised services. One specific agency has been reported repeatedly since 2023 for abusive practices.
Online Targeting and Harassment in Expat Groups
The digital sphere is not spared: fake profiles on dating sites, non-existent rental listings, pet adoption scams (like the “Andina Pets Peru” operation, widely followed on TikTok and Facebook, which delivered sick animals or no animals at all after collecting fees).
More surprising for some newcomers is the occasional virulence observed in some Facebook expat groups. Foreigners asking innocuous questions – where to find a certain cheese, a bar showing something other than soccer, hair products for non-local hair – sometimes become the target of hateful comments, even threats, from trolls or locals irritated by what they perceive as arrogance. This does not represent the general attitude of Peruvians, but serves as a reminder that a certain cultural tact online as well as offline makes things easier.
Areas to Absolutely Avoid: VRAEM, Borders, and High-Risk Roads
Peru’s risk map is not uniform. Beyond the cities, several regions are subject to maximum-level warnings from many governments, due to an explosive cocktail: coca cultivation, drug trafficking, presence of armed groups (notably remnants of the Shining Path), weak infrastructure, and near-absence of the state.
The main areas advised against, even classified as “do not travel to”:
Regions identified as having specific security risks, notably related to drug trafficking and crime.
Affects parts of the departments of Ayacucho, Cusco, Huancavelica and Junín.
Covers sectors of Huánuco, San Martín and Ucayali.
20 km band along the border.
20 km band along the border (excluding the Pan-American Highway and Tumbes crossing).
Isolated areas where boats have been attacked by armed bandits.
Embassies of several countries emphasize they have very limited intervention capacity in these zones. For an expatriate, unless for a very specific professional reason, it is strongly advised not to travel there.
Transportation: The Weak Link in Security
Whether driving, taking the bus or a taxi, road safety is one of the country’s weak points. Serious accidents, especially bus crashes, are frequent, particularly at night, on mountain roads, or with cheap companies.
The main problems are well identified:
– Aggressive driving, dangerous overtaking, widespread disregard for traffic rules.
– Narrow roads, poorly maintained, poorly lit, sometimes without safety barriers.
– Exhausted bus drivers, strong economic pressure to drive fast.
– Crowded micro-buses and urban combis, without real safety oversight.
American authorities strongly advise their personnel against driving at night outside major cities. For travelers, it is recommended to avoid night bus journeys, favor reputable companies (Cruz del Sur, Oltursa, Movil Tours, TEPSA, Civa), preferably sit on the lower level of double-decker buses, and always wear a seatbelt.
In cities, transport systems like Lima’s Metropolitano are practical but are prime ground for pickpockets. Informal taxis represent a structural risk, both in terms of scams and physical safety. Apps (Uber, Cabify, etc.) or taxis called by the hotel or reserved at the airport should be systematically favored.
Healthcare and the Healthcare System: A Major Issue for Expats
Security also means access to reliable care in case of trouble. Peru has a two-tier healthcare system, with a public sector largely under pressure and a private sector of good quality in major cities.
Public vs. Private: The Reality for Residents
The Ministry of Health (MINSA) manages the bulk of public services via hospitals and the Seguro Integral de Salud (SIS), intended for low-income populations. EsSalud, the social security system attached to the Ministry of Labor, covers formal employees and their families, representing about 30% of the population.
In theory, nearly 83% of Peruvians would have some form of health coverage. In practice, the reality is more nuanced:
– Overcrowded public hospitals, lack of resources, medicine shortages.
– Very long wait times: nearly 40 days for a medical appointment, up to 60 days for scheduled surgery.
– Equipment and hygiene very uneven outside Lima; some rural clinics are under-equipped, with limited staff.
– Strong geographic imbalance: nearly half of EsSalud centers are in Lima.
Expatriates generally favor the private sector for their healthcare. In large cities like Lima, Cusco, or Arequipa, several private clinics (Clínica Anglo Americana, Clínica Internacional, Clínica Peruano Japonesa, Clínica el Golf, Clínica Santa María) offer standards close to those in the West, with staff often bilingual and modern equipment. Resorting to the public system is often considered a last resort.
Costs remain well below those in North America, but can still climb quickly without insurance. Some order-of-magnitude costs in the private sector:
| Medical Procedure (Private) | Estimated Price Range |
|---|---|
| General practitioner consultation | 20–50 USD |
| Specialist consultation | 30–100 USD |
| Day of hospitalization | 50–200 USD |
| CT Scan | 150–300 USD |
| MRI | 250–500 USD |
| Minor outpatient surgery | 300–1,000 USD |
| Emergency room visit | 50–150 USD |
| Simple X-ray | 10–30 USD |
An example from a study on the cost of COVID treatments illustrates the gaps between systems: 15 days in the ICU cost about 5,700 USD via SIS, 12,000 USD via EsSalud, and up to 26,250 USD in the private sector.
Health Insurance: Essential for a Peaceful Expatriation
Given these figures, the vast majority of expatriates opt for private local or international insurance, even when their employer affiliates them to EsSalud. The motivations are clear:
– Direct access to the best clinics in Lima and major cities.
– Possibility of medical evacuation to the capital or abroad, crucial in rural or Amazonian areas.
– Coverage of high costs for serious care (ICU, major surgery).
Estimated average annual cost of an international health insurance policy for an individual in Peru.
For a relocation project, including a good health insurance in your budget is not a luxury, but a key element of your overall security.
Specific Health Risks: Altitude, Water, Mosquitoes, Psychoactive Substances
Beyond access to the healthcare system, some risks are specific to the Peruvian context:
In Peru, several specific risks require particular vigilance. Above 2500m altitude, acute mountain sickness (headaches, nausea) is common; gradual acclimatization and hydration are essential. Tap water is not potable: favor bottled or filtered water. In tropical areas (Amazon), diseases like dengue or malaria are present; use repellents and check your vaccinations. Beware of adulterated alcohol (methanol risk) and spiked drinks (scopolamine) in certain bars. Finally, spiritual ceremonies (Ayahuasca, San Pedro) are advised against by authorities due to serious health and safety risks (death, assault, psychological issues), in an unregulated setting.
Culture, Social Codes, and Daily Safety
Safety is not just about crime statistics. Good cultural integration drastically reduces tense situations. Peru is a hierarchical society, attached to polite forms, respect for elders, and family.
Some useful benchmarks to avoid misunderstandings and unnecessary tensions.
Language and Communication
Castilian Spanish is the dominant language (about 82% of the population), ahead of Quechua and Aymara in some regions. English is very rarely spoken outside tourist and business circles. Learning at least basic Spanish (greetings, politeness, price negotiation, handling simple conflicts) is a safety measure in itself: you can manage taxis better, explain yourself more easily with the police, understand announcements during protests or natural disasters.
In Peru, communication is often indirect to preserve harmony and avoid open confrontation. Criticizing bluntly, raising your voice, or making a scene in public can cause your interlocutor to lose face and permanently damage the relationship, even in a consumer-merchant dispute. For an expatriate, the best posture to defuse tensions, for example with a pushy taxi driver or dishonest merchant, is to remain calm, polite, but firm.
Dress, Behavior, and Perception of Wealth
In large cities, dress is generally more formal than in Southern Europe, especially in professional settings. Outside beach areas, walking around in flip-flops, very short shorts, or low-cut tank tops quickly gives the image of the carefree tourist – therefore the ideal prey. The expression “gringo/gringa” is frequently used to refer to foreigners; most of the time, without insulting intent, but it reminds you that you are immediately spotted as non-local.
Adopting a “neutral” attire (pants or jeans, closed shoes, simple t-shirt), avoiding flashy jewelry, luxury watches, or the latest smartphone held out at arm’s length on the street, very concretely contributes to your safety. Ostentatiously displaying your wealth is culturally frowned upon, and in practical terms, it’s an invitation to theft.
Money and Payment Practices
The local currency is the Peruvian sol. Cards are accepted in supermarkets, urban restaurants, and hotels, but not systematically elsewhere. Keeping some cash in small bills on you is fundamental for paying taxis, small shops, or markets.
To limit risks, it is essential to identify and evaluate potential dangers, then implement appropriate preventive measures. This can include diversifying activities, establishing security procedures, training staff, and regularly monitoring processes. A proactive approach reduces the likelihood and impact of negative incidents.
– Use ATMs inside banks or shopping centers, ideally during opening hours. Statistics show an 83% decrease in fraud for withdrawals made inside monitored establishments.
– Always cover the keypad with your hand when entering your PIN, check card readers (to avoid skimmers), and verify the amount before confirming (some merchants have tried to add an extra “0”).
– Split cash and cards into several hiding places, never carry everything on you.
In case of fraudulent withdrawal, it is recommended to carefully document the transactions, keep tickets and receipts, report the problem to your bank as soon as possible, and file a complaint with the authorities or INDECOPI (consumer protection agency).
Digital Security, Rentals, and Online Life
For an expatriate, life also happens largely online: housing search, transportation bookings, networking. However, the field is fertile for scams.
Fake housing listings or seasonal rentals abound: enticing ads, photos stolen from other sites, untraceable owner, payment requested in advance via international wire transfer or unsecured platform, then radio silence. To limit this risk, it’s better to:
To book reliable accommodation, favor established platforms like Airbnb, Booking, or VRBO, which have a good history of verified reviews. Before finalizing, carefully examine the property’s comments: ensure they are numerous, recent, and consistent with each other. Be systematically wary of offers that seem too good to be true, and especially if the owner tries to get you to make the payment outside the official platform.
On social networks, a number of groups for expats in Peru (notably Facebook) are very useful for sharing experiences, finding work, or housing. They are not free of tensions, misinformation, or harassment, but remain a valuable tool if you exercise a minimum of critical thinking.
Protests, Politics, and Crises: How to Prepare
Demonstrations and strikes are a recurring fact of Peruvian life, particularly around political, mining, or social issues. They can erupt quickly, sometimes without notice, block roads, stations, airports, even access to sites like Machu Picchu. Some degenerate into violent clashes, with the use of tear gas.
Key takeaways for an expatriate:
The law prohibits foreign participation in political activities, under penalty of arrest or expulsion. States of emergency, frequent, extend police powers (checks, searches). Expect transportation disruptions, have some wiggle room, cash on hand, and a contingency plan.
To follow the situation, expats are well-advised to monitor local media, municipal social networks, embassy notifications, and services like iPerú. Registering for a program like STEP (for Americans) or equivalent allows you to receive targeted alerts.
Concrete Scenarios and Best Practices for a Peaceful Expatriation
Considering all these elements, living safely in Peru does not rely on a lucky charm or a miracle trick, but on an accumulation of simple reflexes.
In the daily life of an expatriate in Lima, Cusco, or Arequipa, it can look like this:
For a peaceful stay in Peru, favor safe neighborhoods like Miraflores, San Isidro, Barranco, Surco, La Molina, Magdalena, or Pueblo Libre in Lima, as well as the central and tourist areas of Cusco and Arequipa. For your transportation, mainly use taxi apps or recommended taxis, especially in the evening, and at the airport, book a transfer or use official counters. When going out, take only the essentials: a card, some cash in small bills, a photocopy or digital version of your passport, and keep your phone discreetly stored. Avoid using your smartphone at the edge of the road or at traffic lights; prefer to step away into a building lobby, cafe, or shop to check your messages. Beware of “too good to be true” deals: dirt-cheap tours, unlicensed taxis, street money changers, or quick “investment opportunities.” Adapt to the local rhythm by having lunch around 1–3 PM, being extra vigilant at night, and respecting “Peruvian time” for social meetings, while remaining punctual for business appointments. Finally, knowing a few useful phrases in Spanish, like “No, gracias”, “Está bien así”, or “No necesito ayuda”, allows you to refuse firmly but politely.
On the administrative and medical front, a prepared expatriation includes:
For a stay in Peru, it is imperative to have a valid visa or residence permit obtained from Migraciones. Comprehensive health insurance covering hospitalization and evacuation is essential. Vaccinations (hepatitis, typhoid, tetanus) should be up-to-date several weeks before departure. Also prepare a basic medical kit with prescriptions, checking the compatibility of medications with local regulations.
Finally, integration into the local community and the expat network plays a major role. The many Facebook groups (Living in Lima – Expat Support, Traveling and Living in Peru, Expats Cusco, Expats Arequipa…), networks like InterNations, hiking or gastronomy clubs are all places where safety tips, addresses for lawyers, doctors, or schools, feedback on agencies or neighborhoods are shared.
Conclusion: A Fascinating Country, to be Approached with Lucidity
Security in Peru is neither catastrophic nor idyllic. It is contrasting, dependent on neighborhoods, individual behaviors, current political events. Many indicators show real improvements in tourist areas and certain urban districts, with more patrols, cameras, controls.
Thousands of expatriates live for years without major problems, sometimes experiencing only minor theft. However, some encounter difficulties, often due to overestimating the level of security, underestimating scam risks, or poor choice of interlocutors.
Preparing your expatriation to Peru means accepting this complexity: acknowledging the risks, equipping yourself with the right tools (insurance, network, language, information), adopting a discreet lifestyle respectful of local codes, and staying alert to the evolving situation. In return, the country offers what few places can: staggering cultural and natural diversity, a reasonable cost of living, strong conviviality, and the possibility, for those who play the game, to build a rich and peaceful life, with full awareness.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
