Moving to Syria as an Expat: A Practical, No-Nonsense Guide

Published on January 26, 2026 and written by Cyril Jarnias

Moving to Syria today is unlike any other expatriation project. The country is emerging from over a decade of war, remains politically fragile, heavily sanctioned or in transition depending on the actors, with a devastated economy but signs of recovery, especially in major cities like Damascus and Aleppo. Rent and daily life are cheap from a European perspective, but local salaries are derisory, infrastructure is damaged, and security is never fully guaranteed.

Understanding the Syrian context before leaving

Before even discussing housing or salary, one must understand the country. Syria — officially the Syrian Arab Republic — is located in the Middle East, bordered by Lebanon, Turkey, Iraq, Jordan, and Israel. Its population is around 22 to 24 million inhabitants according to sources and years, with significant internal displacement and a massive diaspora.

An authoritarian state weakened by war

The country is described as a dominant-party republic, with an authoritarian functioning, an absence of real democracy, and a lack of freedom of expression. The state apparatus remains heavily security-oriented, political speech is highly controlled, and the law prohibits any activity considered hostile to the regime or de facto authorities.

The consequence for an expat is clear: Syria cannot be considered a “normal” destination. Western governments, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand formally advise against all travel, due to the risk of terrorism, kidnapping, bombings, and also arbitrary detentions.

An ancient country, a conservative society

Damascus and Aleppo are among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Syrian culture is an impressive blend of Sumerian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman heritage. The majority of the population is Sunni Arab, but the mosaic also includes Kurds, Armenians, Assyrians, Circassians, Christians from various Churches, Druze, Alawites, and some residual Jewish communities.

For an expat, this context means two things: daily life can be warm, marked by remarkable hospitality, but individual freedoms are restricted. Syria is not a safe environment for LGBTQ+ individuals, women alone are exposed to risks of harassment or worse, and Western behaviors deemed “liberal” can cause offense.

Security, visas, and legal framework: the foundation to master

Moving to Syria without a nuanced understanding of security risks and residency rules would be irresponsible. Even in cities described as “rather safe” like Damascus, Aleppo, Latakia, or Tartus, there remains a residual threat of attacks, strikes, unexploded ordnance, or crime.

Main risks on the ground

Reports converge on several points:

– no area is considered completely spared from violence;

– the kidnapping of foreigners, particularly Westerners, by jihadist or criminal groups is a documented threat;

– bombings and airstrikes still occur on military targets or infrastructure;

– landmines and explosive remnants of war litter the countryside, former front lines, and destroyed areas.

A restrictive legal framework

Syrian laws strongly regulate certain behaviors that may seem innocuous elsewhere:

– drug consumption and trafficking are heavily punished, up to life imprisonment and the death penalty for the most serious cases;

– marijuana is illegal, without exception;

– restrictions exist on photographing military or government installations;

– possession of specific devices like dedicated radios or GPS can be considered suspicious.

Consensual homosexual relations are penalized. Foreigners involved may risk imprisonment and expulsion, or worse if perceived as activists. Publicly criticizing authorities, publishing certain content online, or speaking about the war and politics are equally dangerous.

Visas and residence permits: a mosaic of rules

The visa regime has evolved significantly since 2011.

Essentially:

One of Syria’s specificities is the combination of several channels: visa on arrival at certain land crossings, e-visa, prior authorization (often via an agency or tour operator), embassy procedures. In practice, many travelers entering by road from Lebanon or Jordan obtain a visa on arrival, paid for in cash in U.S. dollars. Fees vary by nationality: for example, a single-entry visa for an EU citizen costs about $75 USD, versus $150 USD for an Australian, $100 USD for a Canadian. Multiple-entry or longer-duration visas are more expensive.

– a passport valid for at least six months after entry;

– forms in Arabic;

– a declared address in Syria;

– often, an employment contract or a letter from a local organization.

Rules sometimes change without notice, depending on the political climate: it is therefore imperative to check with the competent Syrian embassy and, ideally, through your employer or host organization.

Dual nationality and military service

Syria recognizes dual nationality. However, men over 18 with Syrian nationality, even if born and raised abroad, may be considered eligible for military service. This can block exit from the country or lead to administrative complications. Dual nationals returning to “settle” must absolutely clarify their military status before crossing the border.

Cost of living: low prices, a devastated economy

Seen from Europe or the Gulf, Syria appears very cheap: rents are low, restaurants affordable, services inexpensive. This image masks a brutal paradox: local salaries are among the lowest in the world, and life remains expensive for the population.

General indicators

At the national level, the country ranks towards the bottom of almost all rankings: around 177th out of 197 for cost of living, and 180th in quality of life. GDP per capita oscillates around $800 to $1,200 USD per year according to estimates, with a human freedom index around 3 out of 10.

In practice, the average cost of living, including housing, would be around $544 USD per month for a single person, $1,270 USD for a family of four. These averages hide strong disparities between locals, expats, and remote-working nomads.

In the capital, several estimates give an order of magnitude:

Even more striking, studies show that monthly expenses represent about 8.9 times the average salary at the national level, and over 14 times in Damascus. In other words, only households receiving external income (remittances, NGO salaries, foreign currency income) can live comfortably.

Local salaries

Average net salaries after taxes range from $45 to $60 USD per month, both nationally and in Damascus. In the capital, the median is less than $50 USD. Sample salary grids give, for example:

This income level explains why the population struggles to keep up with inflation, while the expat paid in dollars or euros has an impression of things being “cheap.”

Housing in Damascus: rents and purchase

The capital concentrates most of the remaining organized economic activity. The real estate market there is particularly paradoxical: on one hand, relatively affordable rents compared to the West; on the other, very high purchase prices relative to local salaries, a market frozen by the currency crisis, and a heavy reliance on cash.

Some expats find modest studios for around $160 USD, while a family apartment in a decent neighborhood is closer to $300 to $500 USD. Affluent areas like Abu Rummaneh or Al-Maliki, closer to embassies and organization headquarters, command significantly higher prices.

Added to this are contextual factors: a market described as in “inflationary stagnation” (high nominal prices, but very few transactions), administrative delays for registrations, uncertainty about the real value of the Syrian pound. A foreign buyer must absolutely work with a local lawyer to verify property titles, absence of disputes, and compliance with legislation specific to non-nationals.

Real estate ownership for foreigners

Syria has eased its rules over time: where non-Syrians could practically own nothing, a 2008 law and then Law No. 11 of 2011 opened access to certain forms of ownership. Amendments in 2021 further eased these conditions.

In summary:

In case of inheritance, a foreigner who inherits may lose their rights if there is no reciprocal treatment for Syrians in their country: they must then transfer the property to a Syrian citizen within a defined period, extended to three years by the 2021 reform, or risk the property reverting to the state.

Caution is required: there are other laws, like Law No. 10 of 2018 on redevelopment zones, which can impact entire neighborhoods and weaken certain property rights.

Daily life: housing, bills, transport, food

Beyond rent, other monthly expenses must be calculated to have a realistic idea of an expat’s budget.

Utilities and home services

Syrian energy infrastructure has been heavily damaged. Power cuts are part of daily life. In major cities, buildings rely on private generators, billed as an extra. Before signing a lease, it is crucial to ask how many hours of electricity are guaranteed per day and at what cost.

Some benchmarks for Damascus:

In reality, speeds are often much lower than commercial figures. Damascus is sometimes credited with an average around 0.5 to 1 Mbps, slightly better in Aleppo. To bypass censorship of certain sites or social networks, the use of a VPN is common, even essential for remote work.

Eating in Damascus

Syrian cuisine is one of the great pleasures of the region: mezze, kebbe, shawarma, falafels, mahshi, syrup pastries… Prices remain extremely low for a foreigner.

Some example prices in the capital:

For basic groceries:

If one lives “the Syrian way,” cooking at home and frequenting neighborhood shops, the food budget remains reasonable. Expats working for international institutions or NGOs often import certain products unavailable or expensive locally, which increases the bill.

Getting around the city

The public transport network relies on buses and especially shared minibuses, very cheap but uncomfortable and irregular. In Damascus, a single ticket costs on average around $0.10 USD, a monthly pass between $9 and $17 USD according to estimates.

Gasoline is a sensitive subject. Official prices may seem moderate (≈ $1 USD/liter), but estimates report much higher prices depending on supply channels, up to over $3 USD per liter in some surveys. Occasional shortages are not rare.

Local driving is reputed to be aggressive, roads sometimes dangerous, especially at night or outside major cities. A prudent expat will prioritize local drivers arranged by their employer, particularly for inter-city travel.

Health, leisure, and services

Primary medical care and certain services remain inexpensive on the surface:

– consultation with a general practitioner: around $3 to $4 USD in the public sector or modest clinics;

– private specialist consultation: close to $20 USD according to some sources;

– common medications: a few dollars for a box of cold treatment.

For an expat, the basic rule is to arrive with very solid international health insurance, including medical evacuation to a neighboring country (Lebanon, Jordan, Turkey, or further). Fees are usually payable in advance, even in an emergency.

Regarding leisure, nightlife remains limited, especially in a stricter religious context in some areas. However, there are cafés, terrace restaurants, affordable gyms (around fifteen dollars per month in many clubs), and cinemas where a ticket costs about $3 USD. Brand-name clothing, on the other hand, is expensive relative to local salaries: brand-name jeans often exceed $40 USD, sports sneakers $50 to $70 USD.

Job market: NGOs, United Nations, local companies

Finding a job locally in Syria is far from easy. The war, sanctions, power cuts, and currency collapse have greatly reduced opportunities in the classic private sector. For an expat, two main channels dominate: international/humanitarian organizations and positions seconded by foreign companies.

Present international organizations

A long list of UN agencies and international NGOs work in Syria:

– UNHCR, WFP, UNDP, FAO, UNICEF, UN-Women, UNFPA, UNESCO, OCHA, UNRWA, UN-Habitat, IOM, etc. on the UN side;

– Doctors Without Borders, International Medical Corps, Danish Refugee Council, Norwegian Refugee Council, Oxfam, Action Against Hunger, Save the Children, Solidarités International, IRC, Red Cross / Red Crescent and many other NGOs.

International positions, particularly within the United Nations, offer salaries incomparable to Syrian wages: on the order of $30,000 to over $100,000 USD annually depending on grade and hardship allowances. They generally come with a package including insurance, leave, travel expenses, and sometimes housing.

Local private employment

The economy is reorganizing around a few poles: agriculture (about 20% of GDP), energy, small industry, commerce, services. Private banks, often resulting from partnerships with Lebanese, Jordanian, or Gulf institutions, operate in the country. But most companies suffer from lack of funding, exchange problems, weak purchasing power, and bureaucracy.

Employment contracts are governed by Syrian law (Labor Code and Law No. 17/2010):

– written contract in Arabic mandatory;

– maximum probation period of three months;

– private sector minimum wage set at a very low level in Syrian pounds;

– long working day, with overtime premiums (37.5% on weekdays, 100% on rest days);

– social contributions paid by the employer (about 17%) and the employee (7%).

A work permit is mandatory for any foreign employee. Its issuance generally requires a registered employer, a contract, proof of qualifications, and payment of various fees. Procedures are lengthy, sometimes stretching over several months.

For many expats, the realistic solution is to be employed by a foreign entity (NGO, international company) paying the salary into an account outside Syria, or to work remotely for an employer abroad. In the latter case, however, one faces difficulties accessing the international banking system and very low internet speeds.

Banking, currency exchange, and money management

Managing one’s money in Syria is one of the very first practical challenges for an expat.

A fragile and controlled banking system

The banking sector combines public banks and private institutions. The Central Bank of Syria manages monetary policy, controls exchange, and oversees the whole. Reforms begun in the 2000s allowed the opening of private banks and the entry of foreign partners, often from Lebanon, Qatar, Jordan, or Gulf countries.

For the foreign resident, several points are determinative:

Opening a bank account as an expat is possible, especially in private banks, but requires a complete file: passport, residence permit, proof of address, sometimes an employment contract, minimum deposits in Syrian pounds and/or dollars or euros. International payment cards are rarely usable inside the country, and many online services block transactions originating from Syria.

Cash, black market, and risks

In practice, a large part of daily life relies on cash:

– it is almost impossible to withdraw money with a foreign card from Syrian ATMs;

– major purchases (rent, car, furniture) are paid for in cash;

– the U.S. dollar remains the reference, even where authorities promote the exclusive use of the pound.

An expat must therefore: respect the laws and regulations of the host country, adopt an open attitude toward cultural differences, inform themselves about the local job market, and maintain an appropriate professional network.

– come with a sufficient cash reserve in USD or euros, preferably in recent large bills ($100 USD bills with a blue stripe are best accepted);

– plan regular trips outside the country to replenish this reserve, if their employer does not pay them directly in cash;

– keep tight accounts to limit exchange losses;

– avoid non-essential bank transfers, which are costly, slow, and subject to examination by authorities.

Culture, customs, and integration

The success of an expatriation in Syria depends almost as much on understanding social codes as on salary or material comfort.

Human relations: hospitality and hierarchy

Syrians are generally described as warm, talkative, expressive, and very hospitable. Invitations for coffee or tea, then to share a meal, occur quickly once a relationship begins. Systematically refusing would be perceived as a sign of distance or mistrust.

Society is strongly hierarchical: elders, holders of high positions, religious figures are respected. In the professional world, decisions come from above, oral agreements play an important role, and people prefer to do business with someone they know personally, even slightly, rather than a stranger.

Gestures, clothing, social life

The dress code is based on modesty: legs and arms covered for both sexes, avoidance of tight clothing, cleavage, or shorts in the city. A male expat in long pants and a shirt fits in everywhere, a woman in loose pants or a long skirt and a top covering shoulders and chest does too. The veil is not mandatory for foreign women, except to enter a Muslim place of worship or in some extremely conservative regions, where a headscarf can ease looks.

Sensitive conversation topics are numerous:

– politics and opinions on the regime or armed groups;

– details of the war, the role of security services;

– religion in a polemical tone;

– money and success perceived as linked to authorities.

It is advisable to avoid these themes until solid trust is established. Conversely, talking about food, culture, children, studies abroad, or pride in a hometown almost always opens doors.

Family, education, and life with children

Moving to Syria with children increases the complexity of the project. The country is described as not very “family-friendly” for expats, despite intense Syrian affection for children.

Public and international schools

The national education system is based on a 6-3-3 scheme (primary, intermediate, secondary), mostly public, free, and taught in Arabic. In reality, disparities are strong between cities and countryside, and the war years closed or damaged many schools. While many have reopened, UNICEF and other organizations consider that overall quality remains low.

For expat families, the usual solution is to use international or bilingual schools, where they still exist:

Instruction is generally in English or French, with a more or less developed Arabic component. Classes are smaller than in public schools, infrastructure (libraries, sports fields, laboratories) often better. But fees are high by local standards, and choice remains limited.

Children’s health and family life

From a health perspective, Syria faces the re-emergence of infectious diseases like measles, cholera, polio, leishmaniasis. Vaccination coverage suffered from the war. An expat child must arrive with an up-to-date vaccination record and continue follow-up as much as possible. Parents are advised to keep records carefully, necessary for school enrollment and consultations.

Should you move to Syria? Under what conditions?

In light of these elements, Syria appears as a very atypical expatriation destination, suited to a limited profile:

– NGO and international agency personnel specifically deployed on site, with a solid security and logistical framework;

– highly qualified professionals seconded by companies or institutions, benefiting from a salary in foreign currency, secure housing, and administrative support;

– members of the Syrian diaspora returning to the country, with family networks and external resources;

– very experienced remote workers, aware of the risks and able to cope with fragile infrastructure (slow internet, unstable electricity).

For all, several non-negotiable conditions emerge:

1. Accept the residual risk: even in the city, the possibility of an attack, targeted bombing, or security incident exists. 2. Arrive covered by robust international insurance, including medical evacuation and repatriation in case of crisis. 3. Have sufficient income in foreign currency to live comfortably without depending on local salaries. 4. Prepare documentation matters: visas, residence permits, possible dual nationality, military status, civil status documents for families. 5. Equip yourself culturally: Arabic language (at least basics), social codes, modest dress, caution in public statements.

For those who, in full knowledge of the facts, decide to take the step, meticulous preparation is the best ally: updated information, clear contracts, trusted local network, plan B for every vital aspect (health, finances, security). Syria remains a country of exceptional human and cultural richness, but which demands more than anywhere else not to move there with one’s eyes closed.

Cyril Jarnias

Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.

On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.

Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.

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