Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Sudan as an expatriate today is not a “classic” expatriation. The country combines a fascinating history, a population renowned for its hospitality, immense natural resources… and a major security crisis since 2023, with open warfare, partial collapse of public services, and a fragile economy. In other words, it is a destination that can still attract professionals (humanitarians, diplomats, consultants, NGO or corporate staff), but one that requires a far more rigorous preparation than most African countries.
This guide provides an honest, factual overview of the essential aspects of life in Sudan, particularly in Khartoum. It covers the cost of living, security, administrative procedures, housing, health, international schools, expatriate networks, and the banking system.
Understanding the Country and Context Before Departure
Before opening a bank account, looking for an apartment or a school, you need to understand where you are setting foot. Sudan, the third-largest country in Africa with an area of approximately 1.88 million km², stretches between desert in the north, plains and mountains in the center, and more humid areas in the south. The Nile runs through it, splitting the territory in two, with the capital, Khartoum, at the confluence of the White Nile and the Blue Nile.
The country’s total population is estimated between 45 and 50 million inhabitants.
Politically, the country has experienced decades of civil war, a conflict that had already claimed more than two million lives even before the secession of South Sudan in 2011. Since April 2023, a new war has pitted the Sudanese Armed Forces against the paramilitary RSF force, with particularly intense fighting in the Khartoum region, Kordofan, and Darfur. The result: more than 11 million displaced people, destroyed infrastructure, and a depleted health system.
The country presents fragile socio-economic indicators, with a GDP per capita estimated between $1,000 and $2,000 annually and a life expectancy of around 66 years. It is also characterized by a low Human Freedom Index (around 4.05). Paradoxically, it possesses significant natural wealth (gold, minerals, fertile land, energy potential) that remains underutilized due to structural factors: persistent conflicts, endemic corruption (reflected in poor international rankings), and weak state institutions.
For an expatriate, this means Sudan must be approached as a high-risk destination, not one you come to for a comfortable “lifestyle,” but for a specific mission, with a solidly structured employer or project and a planned evacuation capability.
Khartoum, a Tense Capital but the Nerve Center
Khartoum nonetheless remains the heart of the country: the political, economic, and academic capital. Founded in 1821, the city displays a blend of Sudanese, Turkish, British colonial, and modern architecture. The metropolis spans about 1,010 km² at an altitude of just under 400 meters.
Population estimates vary greatly depending on the source, from under one million to over five million, but all confirm it is the largest city in Sudan. The perceived density is high, with average space estimated at about 144 m² per inhabitant: Khartoum is a city that feels full, sometimes saturated, particularly in transport and markets.
On paper, the Sudanese capital has several interesting assets for people considering expatriation.
The cost of living in Khartoum is generally lower than in many other capitals, allowing for a certain purchasing power.
The city offers immersion in a rich culture and fascinating history, at the crossroads of Africa and the Arab world.
Presence of a small international community, facilitating a certain support and exchange network.
– It is home to the country’s best universities, including the University of Khartoum.
– It has the majority of still-functional infrastructure: private hospitals, specialized clinics, international schools, shopping centers.
– Khartoum International Airport is located a few kilometers from the center, although, in practice, Port Sudan Airport is often the only one operational for international flights.
But the city’s quality of life index remains low (around 25 to 36 depending on calculation methods), security is considered poor, and the city is described as congested, unsafe for women, hostile to LGBTQ+ individuals, and overall not well-suited for foreign families.
Climate, Environment, and Daily Constraints
The first constraint felt by every newcomer is the climate. Khartoum has a hot desert climate: it is hot practically year-round, with a short rainy season around August.
Climate data shows perceived temperatures ranging from 24 °C in January to 40 °C in June, with peaks that can reach 47 °C during the summer. Humidity is generally very low (feeling of overly dry air) except between June and September, when it becomes more “pleasant.” Precipitation is limited, with a maximum of about 22 to 26 mm in July and August. The sun is intense, with a consistently high UV index, often between 8 and 12, necessitating strict sun protection and adjusted exposure hours.
For daily life, this has several concrete consequences:
The extreme heat makes air conditioning essential in homes and offices, and walking dangerous. It increases the risk of dehydration, requiring the purchase of bottled water, and encourages the emergence of diseases (diarrheal, meningitis…), demanding constant health vigilance.
On a national scale, the north also experiences violent sandstorms (“haboobs”) between May and August, which can reduce visibility and disrupt transportation. The rainy season (June to October), depending on the region, increases the risk of sudden flooding, especially in wadis (dry riverbeds).
Security, Law, and Freedom: A High-Risk Framework
Moving to Sudan means accepting to live in an environment where security cannot be taken for granted. Many Western governments classify the country as “advised against” or even “strongly advised against” for all travel, due to the armed conflict, terrorist threat, and crime.
On the ground, the facts are clear:
Intense fighting continues in several regions, notably in Khartoum, Omdurman, Darfur, and Kordofan. Movement is made dangerous by numerous checkpoints, often manned by armed groups with uncertain intentions. Since 2023, there has been a sharp increase in criminal risks: looting, burglaries, assaults, muggings, and carjackings. Kidnappings, including targeting foreigners and humanitarian workers, constitute a real threat, even in previously stable areas. Finally, the risk of arbitrary detention is present, particularly for journalists, activists, and humanitarian staff.
The legal framework, largely based on Sharia law, also imposes strict social rules:
In this country, alcohol consumption and sexual relations outside of marriage, including cohabitation of unmarried couples, are illegal. Homosexuality is severely repressed in a hostile social context. Freedom of expression is very restrictive: criticizing the authorities carries serious risks. Any depiction of the Prophet Muhammad is strictly forbidden and can lead to blasphemy incidents.
For an expatriate, this implies not only strict behavioral adaptation (especially for unmarried couples, LGBTQ+ individuals, or highly visible social media profiles), but also the need to have legal support and solid insurance in case of disputes.
Cost of Living: An “Affordable” City but Very Low Local Salaries
Raw figures show that Khartoum is, on paper, an inexpensive city compared to the global average. It ranks in the bottom third of the least expensive cities in the world for cost of living. But this observation must be put into perspective: the level of local salaries is so low that the cost of living becomes, for a Sudanese, very high.
For an expatriate paid in foreign currency (dollars, euros, riyals, etc.), the situation is quite different: daily life can seem very affordable, even cheap, provided you account for the additional costs related to security, health, or potential evacuation.
Overview of Monthly Costs
Available estimates for Khartoum converge around the following orders of magnitude (US dollars):
| Profile | Monthly Cost with Rent | Monthly Cost without Rent |
|---|---|---|
| Single Person – Average | $850 to $1,050 | $460 to $900 |
| Single Person – Minimum Budget | ≈ $456 | – |
| Single Person – “Comfortable” Level | up to $2,350 | – |
| Family of Four – Average | $1,670 to $2,040 | $1,350 to $1,360 |
| Very Frugal “Nomadic” Lifestyle | ≈ $345 | – |
Overall, the cost of living is about 1.25 times lower than the global average. But for an employee paid in local currency, it’s a different story.
Salaries and Purchasing Power
Average net salaries in Khartoum, according to several sources, generally range between $130 and $200 per month, with some estimates reaching $550. At the national level, the average salary is close to $156. A composite indicator highlights that the average cost of living in Khartoum represents about 6.9 times this average local salary, and 5.8 times the national average.
A standard local salary cannot sustainably cover basic expenses, which explains the growing dependence of families on diaspora remittances. For an expatriate, it is therefore essential to be paid in a hard currency or via an international package, not based on local salary scales.
Housing: Very Varied Rents and a High Premium for “Expatriate” Neighborhoods
Housing is one of the most sensitive expense items, with a very wide range depending on the neighborhood, standard, and security. Khartoum has both modern apartments, villas with gardens, and much simpler accommodations.
The compiled data give the following ranges for monthly rents:
| Type of Housing | Khartoum City Center (Monthly Rent) | Outskirts/Outside Center (Monthly Rent) |
|---|---|---|
| 1-Bedroom Apartment – Range | $185 to $900 | $80 to $550 |
| 1-Bedroom Apartment – Common Average | $490 to $710 | $170 to $350 |
| 3-Bedroom Apartment – Range | $370 to $1,850 | $164 to $1,000 |
| 3-Bedroom Apartment – Common Average | $980 to $1,430 | $280 to $630 |
Alongside these figures based on global platforms, sources more focused on local real estate mention 1‑2 bedroom apartments in “sought-after” neighborhoods (like Alryad, Al Manshia, Al Amarat) at prices ranging from $800 to $1,500 per month. These areas concentrate a good portion of the foreign community, as they offer secure buildings, generators, decent air conditioning, and easier access to schools and private clinics.
Independent villas and houses (often in Riyadh, Tayif, Garden City, or Manshiya) can offer 3 to 9 bedrooms, sometimes with enclosed parking and a garden. Their value-for-money is interesting for families or expatriate shared housing, despite a high total cost. Some constructions also offer 24/7 security guard service, a non-negligible point in a conflict context.
The median housing price is estimated around $33,000.
Note: 20-year mortgage interest rates hover between 21 and 30 % per year, making mortgage loans unattractive.
Utilities, Water, Energy, and Internet
Basic utilities (electricity, water, waste collection, air conditioning) for an average apartment are around $50 per month, with a range of $33 to $80 depending on the size of the accommodation, air conditioning use, and supplier policy.
The weak point remains connectivity. Despite the theoretical availability of unlimited internet offers (advertised 50 to 60 Mbps), reality shows an average speed of about 0.5 Mbps, deemed “unusable” for intensive use. Plans can cost from $25 to $150 per month. For mobile phones, a plan with calls and at least 10 GB of data is around $10 per month.
Given the frequent power and internet outages linked to the conflict, many expatriates and organizations invest in backup solutions: generators, solar panels, satellite connections if possible.
Food and Restaurants: Modest Prices, Limited Choice
Regarding food, Khartoum offers a mix of local cuisine, Middle Eastern influences, and a few international spots. The offering remains limited compared to other African capitals, but sufficient to eat well, especially if cooking at home.
Some price benchmarks:
| Product / Service | Typical Price Range (USD) |
|---|---|
| Simple Meal at a Restaurant | $2.4 to $12 (average ~$5–6) |
| Meal for 2 at a Mid-Range Restaurant | $14 to $61 (average ~$30–35) |
| Fast-Food Meal | $2.3 to $10 (average ~$6–8) |
| Cappuccino | $0.7 to $5.6 (average ~$2.5) |
| Liter of Milk | $1 to $2.5 (average ~$1.5) |
| White Bread (500 g) | $0.45 to $1.65 (average ~$1.1) |
| Rice (1 kg) | $0.5 to $5 (average ~$1.5–2.5) |
| Eggs (12) | $2.1 to $3.6 (average ~$2.5–3) |
| Chicken (1 kg) | $3.3 to $12 (average ~$6–8.5) |
| Beef (1 kg) | $5 to $13.4 (average ~$7–8) |
| Common Fruits & Vegetables (kg) | Banana: ~$1.2; Apple: ~$4.5–6; Tomato: ~$1.5–2.3 |
In the absence of legal alcohol, beverages are often limited to water (bottled, approx. $0.4 for 0.33 L), soft drinks, juices, and non-alcoholic beers and wines.
Preparing meals at home is more economical than eating out. A basic basket including cereals, vegetables, fruit, eggs, and meat allows for comfortable living at a moderate cost, particularly with a foreign currency income.
Transport and Mobility: Low Cost but Risky
Urban public transport remains very cheap, but often outdated and overcrowded. A bus ticket can cost less than a dollar ($0.5 to $0.7 on average), and a monthly pass exists at very low rates ($7 to $25), although in practice, the conflict, lack of maintenance, and fuel shortages severely disrupt the network.
Taxis, more suitable for expatriates, show reasonable rates: the starting fare varies between $2 and $5, with a price per kilometer around $1. An 8 km trip can cost around $9 to $12. Gasoline, depending on sources, fluctuates between $1.06 and $1.67 per liter, but one must account for black market variations and shortages.
Roads are frequently described as “very dangerous”: damaged pavements, poorly maintained vehicles (often without lights at night), lack of signage, presence of pedestrians, carts, animals, and especially the proliferation of checkpoints since the war. Driving yourself, even with an international license, therefore requires solid experience driving in difficult environments and a good understanding of the local context.
Entry Procedures, Visas, and Registration
Administratively, Sudan stands out for its complex, sometimes opaque visa and residency procedures, and a tangle of requirements: entry visa, registration with the police, travel permit outside Khartoum, specific authorizations for certain regions.
The majority of foreign nationals must obtain a visa before arrival. In some cases, visas on arrival at Khartoum are possible, but often conditional upon a formal invitation from a hotel or tour operator and are not recommended without strong local support.
To work or conduct a humanitarian mission, a business or mission visa is usually required, supported by a letter from the employer or local partner. Processing time is 3 to 6 weeks, with possible delays to anticipate. Obtaining a temporary residence permit almost always requires a local sponsor (company, NGO, embassy, hotel).
Once in the country, registration with the Ministry of the Interior (foreigners’ service) must be done within three days of arrival. Fees are to be expected, as well as for travel permits if you need to leave the Khartoum region or go to sensitive areas like Darfur or Kordofan.
In addition to standard travel documents, entry into certain countries may require specific vaccines (such as yellow fever, with a mandatory certificate if coming from a risk area) and may be denied to travelers whose passport contains an Israeli visa.
In this context, it is strongly advised to:
– rely on an employer, NGO, or embassy that regularly handles Sudan visa procedures;
– avoid non-essential frequent round trips;
– systematically keep copies of your documents and travel authorizations.
Importing Personal Belongings and Settling In Materially
The regulatory framework for importing personal goods is quite detailed. For an expatriate settling with a container of furniture and household items, several points emerge:
– All containers are fully inspected, box by box.
– Inspection taxes and fees are systematic, often around $250 minimum.
– Customs clearance frequently exceeds three weeks, partly due to port congestion.
– Demurrage charges (container storage fees) can accumulate in case of delay.
Diplomats benefit from partial or total customs exemptions but must follow specific procedures, such as having forms validated by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Standard expatriates are subject to duties and taxes on their personal effects, within the limits of authorized values and quantities (e.g., maximum number of appliances like air conditioners or refrigerators).
A long list of items is either prohibited (alcohol, drugs, pornography, gambling equipment, certain weapons, used tires or clothing, etc.), or subject to a special permit (satellite equipment, weapons, medicines, live animals, printing material, powerful generators, antiquities, plants or foodstuffs).
With such a level of control, many expatriates prefer to travel light and buy locally, or use experienced international movers for the destination, capable of anticipating blockages and obtaining necessary permissions.
Health, Medical System, and Insurance: A Vital Point
The Sudanese health system was already fragile before 2023. Despite theoretical coverage by a National Health Insurance Fund for over 80% of the population, the on-the-ground reality was one of an underfunded system, with drug shortages, lack of qualified personnel, and many public hospitals in poor condition.
Figures show a massive exodus of professionals: about 60% of trained doctors work abroad, mainly in Gulf countries, the UK, Ireland, and the United States. Local doctors’ salaries are very low (around $250 per month in the public sector before the war), perpetuating this “brain drain.”
With the conflict that started in 2023, the situation has dramatically worsened:
In war-affected states, approximately 70% of health facilities, public and private, have been forced to close.
For an expatriate, the conclusion is clear: you cannot rely on the public system, and even the private sector is under heavy pressure. The standard recommendation is to:
Before your stay, take out international insurance including medical evacuation to a third country (Egypt, UAE, Europe…). Identify reliable health facilities, notably in Khartoum (Royal Care International Hospital, Fedail Hospital…). Bring your personal medications and chronic treatments, often unavailable locally. Also plan for foreign currency cash to pay for any medical fees in cash.
Health risks are not limited to conflict-related injuries. Sudan is exposed to a long list of diseases: hepatitis A and E, typhoid fever, malaria, dengue, yellow fever, chikungunya, meningitis, schistosomiasis, diarrheal diseases… The recommended vaccines are numerous (hepatitis, typhoid, meningitis, basic boosters, possibly yellow fever) and must be anticipated with a travel medicine doctor several weeks before departure.
In this context, many expatriates or NGOs also rely on the Sudanese medical diaspora network, very active via telemedicine and online platforms. Structured projects have already proven their usefulness, like the Gezira Family Medicine Project, which demonstrated the feasibility of thousands of remote tele-consultations. But this remains complementary, not a substitute for real health infrastructure.
Education and International Schools: A Key Point for Families
For expatriates coming with children, the question of schooling is crucial. The Sudanese public education system is essentially in Arabic, with numerous universities but of uneven quality. For children accustomed to international curricula, Khartoum’s international schools were until recently a major asset.
There are (or were before the war started) several institutions of different profiles:
Overview of the main international and bilingual educational institutions offering American, British, French, and IB programs in the Sudanese capital.
School accredited by American and European bodies. Offers an American program with Advanced Placement (AP) courses, standardized tests (MAP, SAT, TOEFL), and has a high proportion of international students.
Private English-language school and IB World School. Offers the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), British IGCSE, and the International Baccalaureate Diploma.
Include schools like Cambridge International School or Unity High School, following the British educational system.
Institution approved by the French overseas network, offering the French national curriculum.
Like SIGS or Confluence International School. Programs blending British curriculum, Sudanese national content (Arabic, religion), and preparation for international exams.
Historically, KAS hosted around 240 to 250 students from over 40 nationalities, with a 10-acre campus, a swimming pool, laboratories, computer rooms, and a developed sports and arts program. Since the war, the school has relocated its operations to a partner campus in Egypt (Schutz American School in Alexandria), in a satellite mode, to preserve educational continuity for its students.
KICS, for its part, offered a modern campus on the outskirts of Khartoum, with nearly 400 students in the early 2010s, and a full IB program.
For an expatriate considering a family installation in Sudan nonetheless, several factors must be taken into account:
– Check if the targeted international school still operates on-site or has switched to a hybrid/remote mode from abroad.
– Understand that tuition fees are high compared to the local standard of living (several thousand dollars per year per child for recognized international schools).
– Include a specific “international schooling” budget in the expatriation package, often negotiated with the employer.
– Have a plan B: possibility of boarding at an international school in a neighboring country, or distance learning if the security situation deteriorates.
For short missions (six months to a year) in an unstable context, many organizations simply choose not to bring families, which limits the use of international schools and reinforces the “hardship post” nature of the destination.
Culture, Social Codes, and Daily Adaptation
Beyond material aspects, the experience in Sudan is also an immersion into a culture very different from that of a Western expatriate, marked by Islam, strong community solidarity, and precise social rules.
Greetings are very important: people say “Salam alaikum”, sometimes accompanied by a handshake, or even a hug between people of the same sex. Titles of respect (“doctor,” “sheikh,” “ustaz/ustaza”) are widely used. Taking time to ask about family, health, and origins is part of basic politeness, even in a professional context.
The society is conservative and patriarchal, where men dominate public space and women are often responsible for the home. Social events (weddings, meals) are frequently segregated by gender. For expatriate women, modest attire (shoulders and knees covered, non-form-fitting clothes) facilitates interactions. Male expatriates should avoid shorts in public and maintain a certain distance from women.
Religiously, the rhythm of the day is marked by prayers, and during Ramadan, by fasting from sunrise to sunset. Foreigners are not required to fast, but eating or drinking ostentatiously in front of those fasting at noon can be perceived as disrespectful. Economic life slows significantly during this month, which must be taken into account for work hours, meetings, or project planning.
Punctuality is relative in many cultural contexts. Meetings may start late, and family or religious imperatives often come before formal agendas. To successfully integrate, adopt a certain flexibility towards these differences, while knowing how to set clear benchmarks and deadlines when professional requirements demand it.
Expatriate Networks and Diaspora: Valuable Support
Sudan does not have a developed nightlife scene, bars or clubs in the Western sense, notably due to the prohibition of alcohol. However, the presence of a very active Sudanese diaspora and a few organized expatriate networks creates a valuable informal support environment.
The InterNations platform offers an active community in Khartoum, with events (dinners, meetups) and a forum for obtaining practical advice on schools, doctors, or administrative procedures. For a newcomer, this allows quick access to reliable information, in a context where official sources are sometimes incomplete or outdated.
In parallel, the Sudanese diaspora abroad – estimated between 4.5 and over 5 million people – plays a key role in supporting the country, whether through money transfers, sending supplies, or setting up humanitarian projects and telemedicine. Organizations like the Sudanese American Physicians Association, SUDAQ in Qatar, or Sadagaat (an NGO from Sudanese professionals in the United States) intervene directly to support hospitals, fund wells, organize soup kitchens, or offer remote consultations.
For a non-Sudanese expatriate, these structures also sometimes offer points of contact, partnerships, or simply a lens to better understand the country’s internal dynamics.
Banking, Money, and Financial Management On-Site
The Sudanese banking system has also been shaken by sanctions, successive economic crises, and more recently by the war. Even before 2023, it was difficult to use foreign bank cards: most banks and ATMs did not accept Visa or MasterCard issued outside the country. Today, the trend remains to favor cash in hard currency, particularly US dollars.
For long-stay expatriates, opening a local account is feasible, notably with banks like Bank of Khartoum or other Sudanese institutions. Usual conditions include:
– a passport with a valid visa;
– a work and/or residence permit;
– a letter from the employer or a salary certificate;
– ID photos;
– an initial deposit in local currency.
Current accounts can be opened in Sudanese pounds (SDG) and sometimes in dollars, but access to foreign currency is controlled. Institutions strictly apply customer knowledge and anti-money laundering rules (KYC/AML). Opening procedures are generally more complex for non-nationals.
In practice, many expatriates prefer:
– holding cash in dollars or euros, to be kept securely;
– using official exchange bureaus to convert as needed (the local currency is not internationally convertible and its export is in principle prohibited);
– international transfers via alternative systems or via bank accounts in third countries.
Significant fluctuations in the exchange rate and the existence of parallel markets require constant monitoring of the real value of the Sudanese pound and negotiating transfers optimally.
Should You Come Live in Sudan Today?
In conclusion, moving to Sudan as an expatriate, in 2024 and beyond, is not a simple exotic career choice. It is a commitment to an environment where security is never guaranteed, where infrastructure is fragile, where access to health and basic services is compromised in many areas, and where personal room for maneuver is strongly constrained by law and social pressure.
For professionals in humanitarian work, diplomacy, international cooperation, or for technical profiles (energy, telecoms, agriculture, logistics), Sudan remains a major field of action offering concrete impact. Expatriate salaries, if negotiated in hard currency and accompanied by guarantees (international health insurance, evacuation, psychological support, school coverage, regular rotations), can partially compensate for the risks incurred.
Before deciding to move, it is essential to:
For an expatriation to a crisis zone, it is essential to: regularly consult the travel advice from your home country; discuss in detail with your employer the security measures, evacuation protocols, and logistical guarantees; prepare medically (vaccines, first aid kit, insurance) and psychologically to live in a prolonged crisis context; and, for long missions, seriously consider geographical separation from your family, especially children, as long as the situation remains volatile.
Sudan remains a country of undeniable human and cultural richness, whose diaspora keeps alive the idea of a “national unity” based on solidarity and generosity. For the expatriate who chooses to live there with full awareness, with meticulous preparation and the support of a solid structure, the experience can be intense, demanding, sometimes overwhelming – but rarely ordinary.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
