Relocating to Sierra Leone as an expatriate is no ordinary endeavor. The country remains one of the poorest in the world, emerging from civil war and epidemics, and grapples with sometimes deficient infrastructure. Yet it also offers a unique living environment: a spectacular coastline, postcard-perfect beaches around Freetown, a warm and community-oriented society, and a dynamic professional market in mining, NGOs, and international organizations. This guide provides a concrete, data-driven, and unvarnished overview to prepare for a successful relocation.
Understanding the Country and Freetown Before You Go
Sierra Leone is a small West African country wedged between Guinea, Liberia, and the Atlantic Ocean. Its capital, Freetown, is built around a massive natural harbor, one of the largest in the world, which remains the country’s economic, political, and cultural heart.
The city has close to a million inhabitants and concentrates almost all expatriate life. This is where the main ministries, headquarters of major mining companies, international NGOs, universities, and most international schools are located.
The climate is tropical, hot, and humid year-round with an average temperature of 27°C (81°F). The rainy season runs from May to November and the dry season from December to April. The most pleasant time to visit or relocate is generally between November and February.
Linguistically, English is the official language and remains very present in administration, schools, and international professional circles. But the daily language, the one that truly enables integration, is Krio, an English-based creole understood by over 95% of the population. Other major languages like Mende or Temne are also spoken. Regarding religion, Islam dominates, but coexistence with Christian communities is generally peaceful and religious culture is very visible in public spaces.
A Poor Country, But Not Without Opportunities
Macroeconomic indicators set the tone: GDP per capita below $1,000, average post-tax salaries around $200 to $280, life expectancy just over 60 years, very low ranking on the Human Development Index. The country relies mainly on subsistence agriculture and mining rents (diamonds, gold, iron ore, bauxite, titanium), supplemented by fishing and some light industries. The economy remains heavily dependent on international aid, with a central role played by the IMF and the World Bank.
For an expatriate, the local landscape has two main aspects. On one hand, public services and infrastructure are fragile. On the other hand, qualified foreign professionals easily find their place in various growing sectors, notably mining companies, international organizations, NGOs, energy, and in emerging sectors like digital or renewable energy.
Visa, Work, and Residence: The Legal Framework to Master
Even before thinking about housing or schools, you must secure your legal status. The competent authorities are mainly the Directorate of Immigration, the Ministry of Labour and Social Security, as well as Sierra Leonean embassies and consulates abroad.
Who Needs a Visa?
Citizens of ECOWAS (West African) countries are exempt from visas for stays of 90 days. For the vast majority of other nationalities, a visa is required, even for a simple tourist visit.
Several solutions exist:
– Tourist or visit visa
– Business visa for short-term assignments (meetings, prospecting, contract signing) without the right to local salaried employment
– Short-term investor visa to explore an economic opportunity
– Student visa
– Temporary residence permit for extended stays
– Visa associated with a work permit (the most common case for salaried expatriates)
Although an e-visa system exists via an official portal and a visa on arrival is theoretically possible for some countries, authorities and practitioners on the ground strongly recommend obtaining your visa before departure when possible. This preventive step helps avoid bad surprises and potential complications at the arrival airport.
In all cases, a yellow fever vaccination certificate (yellow card) is mandatory for entry, regardless of origin.
Work Permit and Residence Permit
Working legally in Sierra Leone requires two separate but linked authorizations: a work permit (managed by the Ministry of Labour) and a residence permit (managed by Immigration). For a typical expatriate, the process follows these general steps:
For a foreigner to work legally in Sierra Leone, the local employer (mining company, NGO, UN agency, service company, etc.) must first justify to the Ministry of Labour that the position cannot be filled by a qualified Sierra Leonean. The candidate must then gather a complete dossier including a passport, CV, diplomas, employment contract, police clearance certificate, and medical certificate. This dossier is submitted by the employer. Once the work permit is obtained, an application for a residence permit is filed with immigration services. These two procedures can be conducted in parallel, but resident status remains conditional on the declared employment. The residence permit, typically valid for one year and renewable annually, is tied to the employer: changing employers requires restarting the entire process.
Permit fees vary by nationality and status (employee, self-employed, ECOWAS member or not), but remain significant. For a non-ECOWAS individual, residence permit amounts are in the millions of Leones per year (several hundred dollars). The employer often covers these costs in standard expatriation contracts.
Family and Dependents
An expatriate in good standing can bring their spouse and dependent children via “dependent” residence permits. These permits remain entirely tied to the status of the primary holder: job loss or non-renewal of the work permit can therefore jeopardize the entire family’s right to stay. Spouses arriving as “dependents” do not automatically have the right to work and must, if applicable, go through a specific permit procedure.
Finding Housing: Neighborhoods, Prices, and On-the-Ground Realities
The housing question is central to relocating to Sierra Leone, and even more so in Freetown where rents for “expatriate” standards can skyrocket quickly.
Where Do Expatriates Live?
The vast majority of foreigners are concentrated on the Freetown Peninsula, more specifically in the western neighborhoods and at higher elevations, prized for their relative safety, proximity to beaches, and easier access to shops and services:
– Wilkinson Road and its adjacent streets, a major commercial artery
– Aberdeen and Lumley, lively coastal neighborhoods, lined with hotels and bars along the beach
– Hill Station, Wilberforce, Spur Road, Signal Hill, Juba Hill, elevated residential areas
– Murray Town, Congo Cross, and some pockets around embassies and major institutions (US Embassy, British High Commission, UN, etc.)
The further west and south you go on the peninsula, the more you find houses with sea views and beachfront villas (e.g., Sussex, Lakka, Hamilton, Goderich, Tokeh). However, these areas are characterized by significant travel times and sometimes challenging roads.
Rent Levels and Local Practices
Rents vary dramatically depending on the neighborhood, security level, view, presence or absence of a generator and water tank, and the degree of amenities (furnished or not, equipped kitchen, air conditioning, etc.).
Some approximate ranges:
| Type of Accommodation (Freetown) | Indicative Monthly Range (USD) |
|---|---|
| Studio/1 simple bedroom in city center | ~ 200–250 (modest local version) |
| 1 furnished bedroom, standard expatriate | 800–1,300 |
| 3 bedrooms in city center, expatriate standard | 1,500–3,500 |
| Large high-end villas (sea view, pool…) | 5,000–20,000 |
| Furnished Airbnb (monthly median) | ≈ 2,000–2,100 |
| Hotels (monthly median) | ≈ 2,000–3,000 |
A specific feature to anticipate: many landlords require payment of several months’ rent in advance, sometimes up to a year, without a formal security deposit. This represents a considerable cash flow shock for a newcomer. In standard expatriate contracts, the employer often pays the annual rent directly.
Security, Water, Electricity: The Three Key Criteria
When searching for housing, three elements carry more weight than interior decor:
Traffic jams in Freetown are very significant. A distance of 10 km between home and the office can lead to over an hour of commuting in the morning and evening. It is therefore advisable to prioritize proximity to the workplace over the rent criterion alone when choosing your neighborhood.
2. Security Houses intended for expatriates are usually surrounded by high walls or iron gates, with a 24/7 guard. Apartments in newer buildings may include security in the service charges. Violent intrusions are rare, but opportunistic theft is common: you must lock doors and windows, secure valuables, and avoid displaying overly conspicuous signs of wealth.
Approximate purchase cost in dollars of a large private generator to compensate for frequent power outages.
Landlords often delegate routine repairs: it falls to the tenant to organize and finance interventions by plumbers, electricians, or masons.
How to Find Housing?
The real estate market in Freetown remains very informal. Some recommended channels:
– Specialized agencies and websites (Visit Sierra Leone, VSL Property, Sierra Leone Property Solutions)
– Announcement groups and classifieds (Freetown Announce Yahoo Group)
– Expatriate networks (InterNations, Facebook groups like “Freetowners“, “Freetown Expats“)
– Furnished rental platforms like Airbnb or alternatives dedicated to nomads and colivers (offers of villas, apartments, coliving with workspaces)
A recurring piece of advice from residents: visit a property at different times of the day (and at night if possible) to gauge the noise level (motorcycles, bars, places of worship with loudspeakers), check water pressure, street lighting, and the quality of access.
Cost of Living: Realistic, But Not “Cheap” for an Expatriate
On paper, Sierra Leone remains one of the least wealthy countries in the world. But the cost of living for an expatriate has nothing in common with that of a local resident. The figures show a massive gap between local average salaries and the typical expenses of a foreigner.
Some Numerical Benchmarks
At the country level, estimates summarize average monthly budgets (including housing) as follows:
| Profile | Average Monthly Cost Including Rent (USD) |
|---|---|
| Single expatriate | ≈ 1,310 |
| Couple | ≈ 1,800 |
| Family of 4 | ≈ 2,500 |
| Average local (without “expat” requirements) | ≈ 230 |
In Freetown, the numbers are even more telling:
| Freetown – Monthly Expenses | 1 Person (USD) | Family of 4 (USD) |
|---|---|---|
| Total with rent | ≈ 1,347 | ≈ 1,705 |
| Excluding rent | ≈ 373 | ≈ 1,053 |
| Rent + utilities | ≈ 974 | ≈ 652 |
| Food | ≈ 260 | ≈ 671 |
| Transportation | ≈ 69 | ≈ 194 |
| Local median net salary | ≈ 120 | — |
In other words, the cost of living in Freetown represents about 11 times the local average salary. Inevitably, the expatriate lifestyle (secure housing, private healthcare, international schooling, outings in places frequented by foreigners) shifts into another dimension.
Food, Restaurants, and Supermarkets
Street food and local markets remain very affordable. A simple meal in a small local restaurant runs between $3 and $4. A pint of local beer can drop below $1 in places frequented by locals. But as soon as you turn to supermarkets run by the Lebanese community, with imported products, the bill rises and sometimes exceeds European prices.
A few examples of common prices to help you budget your stay in an urban environment.
A metro or bus ticket generally costs between €1.50 and €2.50. Daily passes are available for around €5 to €8.
Lunch at a standard restaurant: about €15-25. Dinner at a mid-range establishment: €25-40 per person.
An espresso at a café counter: between €1 and €2.50 depending on the establishment and location.
A 1.5L bottle of water in a supermarket: about €0.50 to €1. In a small shop or kiosk: €1 to €2.
| Product / Service | Average Price (USD) |
|---|---|
| Cheap meal | 3–4.5 |
| Meal for 2 in a “decent” restaurant | ≈ 26.5 (can go much higher) |
| Fast-food combo | ≈ 7.3 |
| Bread (500 g) | ≈ 0.5–0.6 |
| 1 kg of rice | ≈ 1 |
| 1 kg of tomatoes | ≈ 3.5–3.7 |
| 12 eggs | 1.7–2 |
| 1 L of milk | ≈ 1.9–2 |
| 500 g of chicken | ≈ 3–4 |
| Bottle of water 1.5 L | 1.2–1.4 |
| Cappuccino | 1.7–2.1 |
| Local beer (neighborhood bar) | ≈ 1.2–1.5 |
Expatriates accustomed to cooking imported products (cheeses, specific cereals, wines, European canned goods…) should therefore budget a significant amount for food, while adopting a more local diet (rice, cassava, seasonal vegetables, fresh fish, chicken) noticeably lowers the bill.
Transportation, Communications, Leisure
Local transportation appears very cheap: a few cents for a minibus or shared taxi ride. But for an expatriate concerned about safety and comfort, the choice quickly turns to private taxis or renting a car with a driver, which changes the equation.
| Expense Item | Average Price (USD) |
|---|---|
| Bus/local taxi ticket (one way) | 0.15–0.50 |
| 1 L of gasoline | ≈ 1 |
| Private taxi (1 hour) | ≈ 5–10 depending on negotiation |
| Car rental with driver / day | 55–75 |
| Home internet subscription | ≈ 30–75 depending on speed |
| Mobile plan 10 GB | ≈ 10–20 |
| Satellite TV subscription (full package) | ≈ 16 / month |
| Cinema | ≈ 1.7 |
| Gym membership | 40–100 / month (depending on standard) |
Internet remains expensive and relatively slow (2–3 Mbit/s on average), with few real coworking spaces. Tech hubs and some hotel cafés (Radisson Blu, for example) serve as drop-in points for many nomads or remote workers.
Health: A Limited System, Private Insurance Essential
For an expatriate, Sierra Leone is not a country to move to without serious medical coverage. The public health system is fragile, hospitals are under-resourced, and qualified personnel are insufficient in number.
System Structure and Quality of Care
The country has more than 50 hospitals and nearly 1,500 primary care units, but quality varies enormously. The flagship public facilities in Freetown are Connaught Hospital (general reference hospital), Princess Christian Maternity Hospital, and Ola During Children’s Hospital. Alongside these, a few private and NGO facilities have better technical equipment, notably:
– Choithram Memorial Hospital, often cited as the best private general clinic
– Emergency, a surgical hospital supported by an Italian NGO
– other private or faith-based clinics in more limited numbers
Major specialized hospitals are concentrated in Freetown. In the provinces, the offer is limited to basic local facilities. Shortages of medicine, equipment, and staff are frequent, diagnoses can be approximate, and adherence to recommended medical protocols is low.
There is also a public ambulance system (National Emergency Medical Service) recently deployed, but its reliability is still under construction. In practice, in an emergency, many turn to taxis or private vehicles.
Insurance and Medical Evacuation
For an expatriate, two recommendations are systematic:
– Take out international health insurance covering care in the private sector and medical evacuation to another country (Ghana, Europe, South Africa, etc.)
– Have quick payment methods (international card, foreign currency reserve) to cover fees that sometimes must be paid in advance, even for an air evacuation
Free care only applies to certain categories (pregnant women, young children, treatment of some major infectious diseases like HIV, tuberculosis, or malaria) in public facilities. For everything else, you pay.
Daily Health Precautions
The tropical environment requires strict preventive measures:
For travel to a tropical zone, it is crucial to consult a doctor for preventive malaria treatment and to sleep under a mosquito net. Protect yourself from mosquitoes using repellents and covering clothing from late afternoon onward. Before departure, ensure you are vaccinated against yellow fever (mandatory) and, depending on your vaccination status, against typhoid and hepatitis A and B. To avoid waterborne or foodborne diseases, never drink tap water: opt for bottled, filtered, or boiled water, even for brushing your teeth. Be cautious with ice, raw vegetables, and undercooked food, and avoid consuming “bushmeat” (wild animal meat) like bat or monkey. Finally, protect yourself from the sun with hats, sunscreen, and appropriate clothing, especially by the sea.
The city of Freetown also experiences periods of high air pollution, particularly during the dry season, due to fires, dust, and automobile traffic.
Getting Around: Risky Roads, Informal Transport
Getting around is one of the biggest “shocks” for many new arrivals.
To Drive or Be Driven?
Driving is on the right. An international driver’s license can be used at the beginning of the stay, but you must quickly obtain a local license to stay within the rules. The main roads linking Freetown to Bo, Kenema, Makeni, or Lungi are paved, but secondary roads and tracks are often in very poor condition, especially during the rainy season, with potholes, mud, and landslides.
Driving conditions can be difficult due to frequent accidents, poorly maintained vehicles, the presence of many pedestrians and animals on the roadway, and rare public lighting. For these reasons, many expatriates choose to forego driving themselves and opt instead for a car with a driver, via their employer or a rental agency.
Public Transport and Taxis
Public transport relies on a myriad of shared taxis, minibus “poda-podas,” motorized tricycles “kekes,” and motorcycle taxis “okadas.” Fares are minimal, but safety leaves much to be desired: chronic overcrowding, lack of seat belts, excessive speed, unpredictable behavior. Pickpocketing in these vehicles also exists.
For getting around the city, expatriates are generally advised against regularly using local transport, especially motorcycles. Opt for private taxis where the fare is negotiated before the ride. For trips between Lungi Airport and Freetown, the most common option is the water taxi operated by recognized companies. The estuary crossing takes 30 to 45 minutes, with a bus transfer included to the arrival terminal.
Night travel, both on foot and by car, is considered riskier, both for accidents and crime. Many adopt the unwritten rule of limiting night travel to short trips, in a known taxi, between home and a few identified places.
Safety and Daily Life: Vigilance Without Paranoia
Opinions on safety in Sierra Leone are sometimes contradictory. Most guides highlight the kindness of the inhabitants and the low level of political violence, while reminding of the importance of staying vigilant.
Crime and Recommended Behavior
Violent crimes directly targeting foreigners remain limited but exist (armed robberies, burglaries, car-jacking). Street crime (pickpocketing, bag snatching, scams) is much more frequent, notably:
– in very dense markets
– on beaches and around bars, especially at night
– in some neighborhoods in eastern Freetown
Some basic principles significantly reduce risks:
For your safety, it is advisable to avoid displaying valuables like jewelry or high-end phones and large amounts of cash. Do not walk alone at night on beaches or in poorly lit areas. Use recommended taxis rather than hailing random vehicles. In a car, always lock the doors and windows, even in traffic jams. Finally, keep your original identity documents in a safe place and carry copies with you.
Female expatriates face increased constraints: experience reports point to a higher sense of insecurity, risks of harassment, and low institutional protection in cases of domestic or sexual violence. Great caution is also recommended for LGBT+ individuals, as society is very conservative and the law criminalizes relations between men.
Police, Justice, and Specific Rules
The police are present in major cities, with numerous road checkpoints. Corruption is an issue, but authorities are trying to curb it; any official payment (e.g., for a police report after a theft) should be made through formal banking channels, not directly to an officer.
It is strictly forbidden to photograph official buildings, military installations, prisons, courts, or any other sensitive infrastructure. Arrests have occurred for photos deemed “inappropriate.” In case of doubt, it is strongly recommended to ask for prior permission, including for taking portraits of people.
The consumption and trafficking of narcotics are severely punished, as is the smuggling of diamonds and gold. Prison is far from a trivial experience in the country.
Working in Sierra Leone: Growing Sectors and Cultural Codes
Professionally, opportunities for foreigners are concentrated around a few key sectors.
Where Are the Jobs for Expatriates?
The main sources of skilled employment are:
Main economic and development areas offering investment and collaboration opportunities.
Extraction of diamonds, gold, iron ore, bauxite, and titanium, with many international companies.
Oil projects, development of marine energy, and major public works.
Plantation farming, agri-food processing, and export (coffee, cocoa, palm oil, cashew nuts).
Development projects in health, education, and governance, with a strong presence of the United Nations and major NGOs.
Nascent but growing sector, focused on beaches and nature reserves.
In many of these structures, expatriate contracts include a comprehensive package: salary in foreign currency, housing, vehicle with driver, health insurance, annual plane tickets. Positions are most often negotiated from abroad.
Work Culture and Professional Relationships
Sierra Leonean society is strongly community-oriented and hierarchical. In the workplace, this translates to:
Business is based on established personal relationships and trust. Respect for elders and authority is paramount, with the systematic use of titles. Communication, while frank, avoids direct ‘no’s and prefers indirect approaches for delicate subjects. Decisions can take time, as they often involve multiple consultations and approvals.
For an expatriate, adapting to these codes means investing time in relationships (lunches, informal visits, participation in community events), remaining patient with administrative slowness, and balancing professional demands with respect for local customs.
Schooling Your Children: The International Schools of Freetown
For families, the question of schooling very often conditions the choice to relocate or not. The Sierra Leonean public system suffers from limited resources and generally poor results. Expatriates almost always turn to private international education.
Among the key institutions in Freetown:
– American International School of Freetown (AISF) A small school focused on an American curriculum (Common Core, online programs for high school, Advanced Placement options). Classes are small, with an emphasis on individualized instruction, labs, a library, and arts and sports activities.
– British International School and Montessori Education (BIS) An English-language institution following the British program, from nursery to secondary, with preparation for IGCSEs and A-Levels. The school promotes a Montessori approach in the younger grades, a multicultural environment, and weekly clubs.
– Lebanese International School (LIS) A school blending systems, integrating Lebanese, French, and international programs. Students often graduate French-English bilingual, with Arabic as an option, and have access to Cambridge exams (IGCSE, AS, A Level) and the IELTS.
Other schools, like Ayoub International School or Choithram International School, complement the offer, often with mixed programs (American/British) and small class sizes.
Tuition fees are not always published but are at levels comparable to other African capitals, at least for the better-equipped schools. Expatriate contracts sometimes include a “schooling allowance”: a point to negotiate carefully if coming with a family.
Social Life, Culture, and Leisure: A Capital Turned Towards the Ocean
Despite its constraints, Freetown has much to offer in terms of quality of life, especially for those who appreciate nature and the sea.
Beaches, Nature, and Heritage
The great pride of residents remains the peninsula and its white sand beaches: Lumley (more urban and lively), Lakka, John Obey, Bureh, River No.2, Tokeh… You can enjoy surfing, diving, boat trips, or simply the ocean. Inland, the Gola rainforest or islands like Banana Island and Turtle Islands attract lovers of still-under-the-radar ecotourism.
Historically and culturally, some notable sites: the old Cotton Tree (Freetown’s symbolic tree), St. George’s Cathedral, the National Museum, the Railway Museum, and Bunce Island, a former hub of the slave trade.
Outings, Restaurants, and Nightlife
Local cuisine is based on rice, spicy stews, and fresh fish or seafood. The custom of eating from a shared platter with the right hand remains widespread. In neighborhoods frequented by expatriates, you find restaurants blending local and international influences: Alex’s, Lagoonda (at Mamba Point), Oasis Juice Bar & Guesthouse, Chicken Town, Crown Bakery… Cafés like Gigibonta or spaces like Impact Hub (with a café open 24/7) also serve as meeting points for the international community.
Nightlife is concentrated along Lumley Beach Road, with numerous establishments like Baw Baw Bar, Papaya Bar, Warehouse Nightclub, Twenty Twenty, and Scarlett Lounge. The atmosphere is very festive on weekends, mixing locals and expatriates. It’s important to keep in mind the safety precautions mentioned earlier.
Integrating: Clubs, Networks, and Mutual Support
The expatriate community in Freetown is known to be tight-knit. Newcomers can rely on:
Discover the main online platforms and communities that facilitate the integration and daily life of expatriates in Sierra Leone.
Join communities like InterNations to participate in dinners, cultural outings, and weekend excursions.
Exchange recommendations, classifieds, and practical advice on groups dedicated to your city.
Use platforms like Expat.com or Yahoo Groups to find a nanny, housing, a sports partner, or a trusted doctor.
Numerous testimonials highlight how advice from NGO colleagues, expatriate neighbors, or local friends was crucial for navigating formalities, housing searches, or managing daily life.
Money, Banking, and Financial Management
The country operates mainly in cash, in the local currency, the Leone. A recent monetary reform removed three zeros, but the use of old and new notes still sometimes coexists in habits.
Opening an Account and Managing Payments
Several commercial banks (Sierra Leone Commercial Bank, United Bank for Africa, Sky Bank, Vista Bank, subsidiaries of regional or international banks) offer current accounts, savings accounts, foreign currency accounts (dollar, euro, British pound), and online or mobile banking services.
To open an account, you generally need:
– a valid passport or ID
– proof of address (water or electricity bill; failing that, an employer’s attestation or a visit report)
– passport photos
– sometimes bank reference letters and, for a company account, the company registration documents
Foreign currency accounts (domiciliation/forex) are useful for expatriates paid in dollars or euros, facilitating the holding of funds in hard currency and international transfers. However, regulations require the use of local currency for domestic payments and limit the holding of foreign cash outside the banking system.
ATMs are concentrated in Freetown and remain unreliable: frequent breakdowns, low withdrawal limits. An international bank card therefore does not replace prudent management of your cash in Leones.
Cost of Living / Local Salary Ratio
One striking fact: the cost of living is over four times higher than the local average salary. This results in a very unequal society, where the expatriate with a salary indexed to international standards finds themselves in an economic “bubble.” This reality demands ethical vigilance in relationships with domestic employees, drivers, guards, and more broadly in consumption and remuneration practices.
Should You Relocate to Sierra Leone?
Deciding to relocate to Sierra Leone as an expatriate means weighing significant constraints – security that can be improved, fragile healthcare, deficient infrastructure, high expatriate cost of living – against strong motivations: impactful work, a taste for adventure, a desire to live by the ocean in an environment still untouched by mass tourism, or the prospect of participating in the reconstruction of a country marked by history.
What emerges from on-the-ground experiences is that those who thrive there have in common:
For a smooth relocation to Sierra Leone, it is crucial: to be well-prepared administratively (legal status, housing, health insurance, finances); to accept giving up some modern comforts to gain others, like more space, proximity to nature, or a different perception of time; to embed oneself in local life, beyond the expatriate community, by learning a few phrases of Krio, building relationships with colleagues and neighbors, and participating in community life; and finally, to have a plan B regarding medical and security aspects, while avoiding living in constant fear.
With meticulous preparation, a well-structured employment contract, comprehensive insurance, and a support network, Sierra Leone can become much more than a “difficult” posting on a CV: an intense, demanding, but profoundly impactful life experience.
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