Moving to the Czech Republic means entering a country that drinks more beer than anywhere else in the world, where lunch remains the main meal of the day, and where traditional cuisine, long considered rustic, is making a strong comeback on plates… and in national pride. For an expat, learning to eat “the Czech way” is one of the quickest ways to understand the country, its seasons, social habits, and even its geography.
This guide helps you discover local Prague gastronomy by directing you to cheap canteens, historic breweries, farmers’ markets, and recent creative spots. The goal is to give you concrete landmarks to eat well without blowing your budget, and thus move from the status of tourist to that of a savvy regular.
Understanding the Spirit of Czech Cuisine
Before diving into the details of the dishes, you need to grasp the logic of this cuisine. The Czech tradition was forged long before the arrival of matcha brunches and poke bowls. It grew at the crossroads of several influences – Austrian, German, Hungarian, sometimes Slavic – in a harsh climate, with long cold periods.
Traditionally described as hearty, filling, and comforting, Czech cuisine was historically marked by modest meat consumption, reserved for Sunday meals. Today, democratized, meat plays a more important role, although root vegetables, cabbage, and grains remain essential pillars of this deeply flavored gastronomy.
A typical meal is structured as follows: a soup to whet the appetite, a main course often based on meat, accompanied by potatoes or knedlíky (the famous bread or potato dumplings), and sometimes a dessert or compote to finish. It almost always pairs well with Pilsner beer, a national symbol that permeates all layers of the culinary culture, from medieval monasteries to ultra-modern microbreweries.
Must-Try Dishes to Get Acquainted With
To feel comfortable in a Czech restaurant, it’s useful to know the great classics that appear on all menus. Naming them in Czech, even with an approximate accent, immediately makes things easier with the waitstaff.
The Great “Monuments” of the Table
Here is an overview of these pillars of the local cuisine, with their flavor logic.
Svíčková na smetaně
Often considered the national dish. It consists of beef (usually sirloin or a prime cut) slowly braised in a creamy vegetable sauce (carrot, parsley root, celeriac), thickened with a roux and then smoothed with cream. It is served with slices of bread knedlíky, a little cranberry sauce, a slice of lemon, and a dollop of whipped cream. It’s the festive dish par excellence: weddings, big Sunday lunches, family meals.
Hovězí guláš is a Czech adaptation of Hungarian goulash. It is characterized by a thicker sauce, often slightly tomato-based, where onions play a predominant role. It is flavored with sweet paprika, cumin, and marjoram. This dish is traditionally served with knedlíky (bread dumplings) or rustic bread, accompanied by a mug of Pilsner beer. A Moravian variant incorporates sauerkraut directly into the sauce.
Vepřo-knedlo-zelo
Probably the most typical trio in the country: roast pork, bread dumplings, and cabbage (often sauerkraut). For a long time, this was the Sunday dish in families. It alone condenses the Czech flavor DNA: roasted meat, soft starch to soak up the sauce, and the acidity of fermented cabbage to balance it.
Pečená kachna se zelím – Roast Duck with Cabbage
The leg and thigh are slowly roasted with caraway seeds, until obtaining a crispy skin and melt-in-your-mouth meat. It is served with braised red cabbage and potato dumplings. Once reserved for the wealthy, this dish has become the star of big Sunday meals or celebrations like St. Martin’s Day (where roast goose also plays this starring role).
Řízek – Czech Schnitzel
Thin slice of pork (or chicken) breaded and fried, served with potato salad or plain potatoes. The Czech potato salad is worth a detour: potatoes, carrots, hard-boiled eggs, pickles, onions, mayonnaise, mustard, and a bit of pickle brine.
Some specialized pubs can sell up to 500 portions of smažený sýr per day.
Knedlíky – The Omnipresent Dumplings
This is the base of Czech side dishes. We distinguish:
– houskové knedlíky, based on a yeast dough with pieces of bread, shaped into logs and boiled then sliced
– bramborové knedlíky, made with potatoes, sometimes stuffed with smoked meat.
They serve as a sauce sponge for all roasts, goulash, and saucy dishes. Leftovers are sometimes pan-fried with eggs.
Soups: The First Gateway
In the Czech Republic, soup is not a simple appetizer, it’s an identity pillar. Lunch almost always starts with a hot bowl, even in summer. A few to know:
Discover five emblematic soups of Czech cuisine, combining comfort, tradition, and unique flavors.
Potato cream soup with mushrooms and dill, seasoned with vinegar and topped with a poached egg. Originating from South Bohemia, it offers a subtle balance between acidity, herbs, and creaminess.
Clear garlic soup with potatoes and marjoram, often served with croutons, cheese, or ham. Reputed as a remedy for colds and hangovers.
A comforting potato soup with root vegetables and mushrooms, flavored with cumin and marjoram. Ideal for cold winters.
A robust soup based on sauerkraut, potatoes, sausage, and sour cream, evoking mountain stews.
Clear beef broth served with small liver dumplings and egg noodles. A classic on festive menus.
“Everyday” Dishes to Look For
For a weekday lunch or a casual dinner, other preparations often appear:
– Rajská omáčka: a sweet-and-sour tomato sauce, thickened and creamed, served with beef and knedlíky.
– Koprová omáčka (koprovka): a dill sauce, rich in cream, served with beef or a poached egg and potatoes. This is one of the few traditional dishes that is naturally vegetarian when served only with eggs.
– Sekaná: a beef-pork meatloaf, flavored with garlic and marjoram, oven-roasted, often served with potatoes and mustard.
– Bramboráky: pancakes made from grated raw potatoes, garlic, and marjoram, fried in lard. They can be found both as a side dish and as street food.
Discovering Beer and Brewery Culture
It’s difficult to talk about local gastronomy without addressing beer. The Czech Republic is the birthplace of Pilsner, has more than 400 breweries (most of which are craft microbreweries), and holds the world record for per capita consumption. Beer is both a drink, a social marker, and a vehicle for conviviality.
The Major References to Know
Even though this guide focuses on food, understanding a few names helps you get your bearings:
Discover some of the most emblematic beers of the Czech Republic, a country renowned for its great brewing tradition.
The world’s first Pilsner, brewed in Plzeň since the 19th century. It gave its name to an international beer style.
The “original Budweiser” from České Budějovice, famous for its characteristic-tasting blonde lager.
A major historic Prague brewery, producing widely distributed and appreciated beers.
The landscape is completed by numerous brands like Bernard, Zichovec, Zlatá Kráva, or monastery beers (Břevnov, Strahov).
In pubs, you’ll often be offered a “desítka” (a 10° Plato beer, about 4–4.5% alcohol) or a “dvanáctka” (12°, a bit fuller-bodied).
Where to Drink While Eating: Breweries and Hospody
Prague is full of brewery-restaurants where beer pairs with traditional cuisine.
Notable examples include:
U Fleků is one of the oldest brewing establishments in Eastern Europe, brewing on-site for over 500 years and serving classic Czech fare in a historic inn setting. Pivovar U Medvídku is both a brewery and a hotel, offering a menu entirely dedicated to beer (even desserts like beer ice cream) and a souvenir shop. U Kunstatu is a pub specializing in craft beer tasting, offering many drafts accompanied by charcuterie boards. Finally, Lokál (like Lokál Dlouhá) is a chain of pubs renowned for the quality of its ‘tanková’ (unpasteurized) Pilsner Urquell draft and its short but effective menu of Czech classics.
In most breweries, a pint costs much less than in Western Europe, often under $3. The beer–food pairing is an integral part of the experience, to the point that some pubs offer only a limited choice of wines.
Eating Local Without Breaking the Bank: Canteens, Daily Menus, and Budget Tips
For an expat, one of the great advantages of the Czech Republic – and Prague in particular – remains the relatively moderate cost of eating out, especially if you adopt local customs.
The jídelna: The People’s Canteen
Jídelna or lidová jídelna are popular canteens, in a self-service mode, that serve very traditional home-style food at tight prices. You serve yourself on a tray, with some dishes charged by weight. They operate mainly on weekdays, at lunchtime, and clearly target locals and office workers.
A few on-the-ground figures to keep in mind:
| Type of Establishment | Typical Price Range |
|---|---|
| Jídelna (canteen) | 130–180 CZK for a complete meal |
| Daily special (restaurant) | Up to about €5 for a main course |
| Soup as part of a lunch special | Below €2 |
| Fried food stand / street hot dog | About 100–130 CZK depending on the stand and neighborhood |
Some of these canteens only display the menu in Czech, which can be intimidating at first. But by observing the counter and pointing, you can manage just fine. Havelská Koruna, for example, near Havel Market in Prague, works with a ticket system: you choose your dish on a screen, receive a paper to give to the server, then pay at the cashier on the way out.
Lunch Menus: The Habit to Adopt
Most Czech restaurants offer a lunch menu (denní menu) on weekdays, usually between 11:30 AM and 2 PM. These are daily specials sold at a reduced price, sometimes including soup. For an expat, this is the best way to taste the classics (goulash, svíčková, schnitzel, roasts) at good places without blowing your budget.
Czech employees often use meal vouchers provided by their employer to buy daily specials, which typically cost between 150 and 200 CZK depending on the neighborhood, significantly cheaper than the same dish served in the evening.
Avoiding Tourist Traps
Even though the overall quality has improved a lot, some places around Old Town Square in Prague sell very mediocre cuisine at high prices. A few warning signs:
– a large sign in English touting “original” or “traditional” Czech cuisine without a word of Czech,
– staff hailing passersby in several languages,
– the presence of touts with laminated menus.
To discover real local cuisine at honest prices, it’s better to move away from the main square, aim for side streets or change neighborhoods: Vinohrady, Karlín, Holešovice, Smíchov, Letná, or Žižkov are full of good restaurants frequented by locals.
Gourmet Map of Prague for Expats
Even though Czech gastronomy is not limited to Prague, the capital concentrates an impressive density of restaurants, breweries, markets, and grocery stores. Here are a few landmarks to guide your first weeks.
The Temples of Traditional Cuisine
Several places have become true references for tasting the great classics in a mastered version.
| Signature Dish | Recommended Addresses (Prague) |
|---|---|
| Svíčková | Café Louvre, Lokál, Čestr, U Kroka, Na Pekárně (nearby village) |
| Goulash (beef) | Mincovna (Old Town Square), KATR, U Červeného Páva |
| Roast Duck | U Bansethů (Nusle), Ossegg (Vinohrady), Next Door |
| Fried Cheese | Lokál (especially Dlouhá), U Houmra |
| Schnitzel | Café Savoy, Kantýna, U Parlamentu |
| Kulajda | Café Imperial, Vinohradský Parlament, Spices restaurant (hotel) |
Some iconic places deserve special attention for a gourmet expat.
Café Louvre
A historic institution open since 1902, once frequented by Kafka or Einstein. They serve svíčková, goulash, schnitzel, and pastries in a Belle Époque setting. An ideal place to feel the continuity between the old Austro-Hungarian Empire and the modern Republic.
Mincovna
On Old Town Square, this restaurant proves you can eat traditional food right in the tourist center without getting ripped off. Polished plates, quality ingredients, goulash, sausages, and Wiener schnitzel (fried in butter) are among the specialties.
U Kroka
In the Vyšehrad neighborhood, this neighborhood restaurant wins you over with its soups (corn, roasted garlic), its generous svíčková, its venison in red wine sauce. Prices remain very reasonable for the quality offered: a haunt for regulars, perfect for an expat settling in.
Kantýna is a hybrid establishment, both a butcher shop and a large dining hall. The unique feature is that everything is charged by weight: customers choose their cuts of meat at the counter, get served on a tray, and pay on the way out. Specialties include aged beef, aged meat burgers, hearty soups, and pork neck schnitzel. Expect to pay around $40 for lunch for two people when ordering ‘by eye’.
Lokál
The Lokál pub chain (notably Lokál Dlouhá) is an excellent school for beer-local cuisine culture. Perfectly pulled tank beer, a short menu of classics (goulash, fried cheese, tartare, sausages), noisy but warm atmosphere. Ideal for a first immersion in the Czech “hospoda”.
Street Food and Small Bites
Czech street food has its own codes, revolving around sausage, bread, and unapologetic fat.
Among the popular street food specialties in Prague is the **Párek v rohlíku**, a local hot dog where the sausage is inserted into a perforated bun. The stand **Parek v rohlíku – Ladislav Cerveny** near Náměstí Míru is a good authentic example. The **Klobása** is a large smoked sausage served with bread, mustard, and horseradish, typical of markets and festivals. Finally, the **Trdelník**, a cake cooked on a spit and rolled in sugar and cinnamon, of Hungarian origin but very widespread. The versions stuffed with ice cream or Nutella are modern adaptations.
For a more elaborate version of street food between hot dog and burger, Mr. HotDoG in the Holešovice neighborhood serves creative sandwiches, like a cheese and sauerkraut hot dog for around 129 CZK or bacon-cheese sliders for a bit less.
Chlebíčky, Pastries, and Sweet Treats
It’s impossible to become a “local” without incorporating certain sweet-and-savory rituals.
Chlebíčky, those sophisticated open-faced sandwiches
These are ultra-garnished open-faced sandwiches, a base of elongated white bread (veka) topped with salads (often a base of potato salad), cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, pickles, and colorful decorations. They are eaten as a snack, at buffets, for appetizers, or even for lunch.
A few key addresses:
– Bistro Sisters (Dlouhá): modernized versions, with refined ingredients (beet–goat cheese, roast beef, mozzarella…).
– Lahůdky Zlatý kříž (Jungmannova): an institution for the classic tartine, highly prized by locals.
– Chlebíčky Letná and Príma chlebíček (Vinohrady): good neighborhood addresses for generous chlebíčky.
Some counters like Libeřské lahůdky offer tartines at an accessible price, around 39 CZK.
Koláče, buchty, štrůdl: The Sweet Part of the Czech Soul
Czech pastries revolve a lot around yeast dough, poppy seeds, fresh cheese like tvaroh, and fruit.
– Koláče: small round brioches filled in the center with plum jam, fresh cheese, poppy seeds, etc. You can find them in specialized shops like Moravské koláčky Doležal (Vršovice), Cukrárna Skála, Eska (Karlín), or Kus Koláče (Vinohrady).
– Buchty: small brioche buns filled with jam, poppy seeds, or tvaroh. Served as dessert with melted butter or ice cream, or simply with coffee. Emma Espresso Bar, Café Lounge, Alf & Bet, or Eska are known for their modern versions.
– Apple strudel (jablečný štrůdl): omnipresent and often very well executed, especially at Café Savoy or in restaurants inspired by Austro-Hungarian tradition.
– Dukátové buchtičky: small cubes of yeast dough served with vanilla sauce, which can constitute a sweet main course.
At Café Savoy, for example, an emblematic dessert is the větrník, a caramelized choux pastry filled with cream, which has been the subject of comparative tastings among Prague pastry shops – the café often comes out among the favorites.
Markets, Short Supply Chains, and “Green” Trends
The Czech Republic is experiencing a surge in interest for local, organic, and plant-based foods. Prague, in particular, has seen farmers’ markets proliferate since 2009. These markets constitute an ideal observation point for an expat to witness this shift.
The Rise of Farmers’ Markets
Farmers’ markets (farmářské trhy) prioritize Czech producers and local food artisanship. Labels remain mainly in Czech, but younger vendors quite often speak English, especially at the more central markets.
Payment is mostly in cash (Czech crowns), although card use is increasing. Bringing your own bags or baskets is encouraged, some markets like Heřmaňák in Prague 7 having been pioneers of the “zero plastic bag” initiative.
Among the most interesting for an expat:
| Market | Neighborhood / Main Feature |
|---|---|
| Náplavka | Vltava riverbank, castle view, great social atmosphere |
| Jiřího z Poděbrad (Na Jiráku) | Vinohrady, young neighborhood vibe, independent cafes nearby |
| Anděl | Prague 5, large market with seasonal themes |
| Karlín Market | Karlín, in front of the church, koláče, strudel, grilled meats and good coffee |
| Heřmaňák | Prague 7, small market engaged in reducing packaging |
| Dejvice (Kulaták) | Prague 6, oriented towards new producers, with a children’s area |
Náplavka, for example, lines up to a hundred stalls on Saturday mornings, between sourdough breads, farm cheeses, freshly fried bramboráky, craft beers, and ciders. Ideal after a walk towards Vyšehrad or for an improvised outdoor brunch.
Organic, Short Supply Chains, and Labels
The country has seen an explosion in the number of organic farms since the mid-1990s, going from about 200 farms to over 4,600 farms on more than half a million hectares. The “Bio” and “Eko” labels are regulated by law, and the Biozebra (official logo) indicates certified products.
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– at markets,
– in bio-potraviny (organic grocery stores),
– in chains like Country Life, which combine stores and vegetarian restaurants selling by weight (about 33 CZK per 100 grams in some buffets).
The plant-based trend is also reflected in the proliferation of vegan or veggie restaurants, and the country is now ranked among the most welcoming in Europe for meat-free diets.
Cooking Czech at Home: Supermarkets, Small Grocery Stores, and Tips
For an expat, everyday cooking won’t only happen in restaurants. Understanding how supermarkets and food shops work helps you adopt a local lifestyle.
The Major Chains and Their Profile
The main supermarkets present everywhere in the country are:
– Albert: very entrenched in the local market, wide choice of Czech products.
– Billa: reputed to be slightly higher quality, with a fresh section often well maintained.
– Tesco: perceived as the most “expat-friendly”, with more international references.
In addition, there are hypermarkets like Kaufland or Tesco Extra, and discount chains like Lidl or Penny. Lidl, in particular, enjoys an excellent reputation for price-to-quality ratio, with a rich bakery section, themed weeks (Italian, Asian, American cuisine…), and low prices.
A few peculiarities to know:
In supermarkets, shopping carts generally work with a deposit system (5 or 10 CZK). For fruits and vegetables, it is necessary to weigh them yourself in the section and attach the price label before going to the checkout. Plastic bags are chargeable, so it is recommended to bring your own reusable bags. Finally, cashiers scan items very quickly, so you need to pack your purchases yourself at a brisk pace.
Supermarkets usually have a massive choice of yogurts, beers, and candies, but relatively few refrigerated ready-made meals compared to Western Europe.
Potraviny, večerka, and ovoce-zelenina
Alongside the big stores, there remain many small grocery stores:
For your daily shopping, several types of stores exist: **potraviny** are mini neighborhood grocery stores, ideal for bread, cheese, fruit, and quick stops. **Večerka** are potraviny open late (sometimes 24/7), handy for last-minute shopping but often more expensive. Finally, **ovoce a zelenina** shops and sidewalk stands are dedicated to fruits and vegetables.
Expats often notice that products contain fewer preservatives than elsewhere, keep for less time, and require more frequent shopping. In return, freshness is better and the use of ultra-processed products is less massive.
Playing with Promotions and Seasonality
The cost of living is increasingly expensive in the Czech Republic, but the population remains very attentive to prices. Many apps and loyalty programs address this concern for savings:
– Tesco Clubcard, Můj Albert, Billa Bonus Club: loyalty cards giving access to targeted discounts.
– Promo comparison apps like Kupi.cz, Akčníleták, or Mojeletáky.
For an expat, buying seasonal products (for example beets, cabbage, leeks in winter; strawberries and cherries in spring; plums at the end of summer) allows for balancing budget and quality.
Cooking Classes and Immersive Experiences
If the best school for understanding Czech flavors is the daily table, some expats prefer guided learning. Prague offers a whole range of cooking classes and culinary experiences that allow you to get your hands dirty.
Iconic Cooking Schools
Several organizations have built a solid reputation:
Discover a selection of schools, workshops, and platforms to learn Czech and international cuisine during your stay in Prague.
School active since 2007 offering more than 50 types of classes (Czech and world cuisine). 3-hour workshops (4 hours with market tour). Also: corporate events, private parties, ingredient shop, and some farm stays.
Workshop run by Aida and Bret in a historic Karlín space (up to 20 people). Immersive classes like ‘Taste, Cook and Dine Traditional Czech’ that blend family recipes, stories, and convivial tasting.
Cozymeal or Cocina Rivero list independent chefs offering various experiences: Czech menu, Prague Jewish cuisine, market tours followed by a class, or private dinners at the chef’s home.
Formats range from 3 to 8 hours, sometimes with a morning visit to the Holešovice market or farmers’ markets, ingredient selection, preparation of several dishes (often soup, main course, dessert), then tasting at the table with beer or wine.
What You Learn in These Classes
Beyond recipes, these workshops are a window into the culinary history of the country:
Czech cuisine uses root vegetables (parsley root, celeriac, carrot) abundantly as a base for sauces. Sauerkraut and sweet cabbage also play an important role. For desserts, poppy seeds, fresh cheese (tvaroh), and summer fruits are essential. Knedlíky (dumplings) are made artisanally. Finally, country soups range from clear broth to thick versions that constitute a full meal.
You also discover how this cuisine adapts to modernity: vegetarian versions of meat dishes, creative use of vegetables (cauliflower with beet and brown sugar, potato with buttermilk and dill, cucumber with mint and juniper berry…), integration of Czech wines or homemade sodas (sea buckthorn–mint, for example) into meals.
Behaving Well at the Table: Local Codes and Etiquette
Appropriating the gastronomy also means integrating the implicit rules surrounding the meal.
At the Restaurant: Some Useful Reflexes
In the Czech Republic, you often choose your own table when entering. It is common to share the same table with strangers when the place is full. In that case, at least say “Dobrý den” when sitting down.
A few points to remember:
– lunch willingly starts with a soup, even with a daily special;
– service is rarely pressuring: you can stay at the table for a long time without being rushed out;
– to ask for the bill, say “Zaplatíme, prosím” or “Účet, prosím”; the server may ask if you’re paying together (“dohromady?”) or separately (“zvlášť?”).
In restaurants and bars, it is customary to leave a tip of about 10% of the bill. Unlike some customs, you don’t simply leave the change on the table. Instead, you should tell the server the total amount you wish to pay (the bill plus the tip) or, when leaving the change, say “to je dobrý”, which means “that’s fine” and indicates the rest is for the service.
The Toast, a Sacred Moment
Raising your glass is an integral part of socializing. The standard phrase is “Na zdraví!” (to your health). The code dictates that you clink your glass with each of your companions, looking them in the eye at the moment of the clink, then taking a sip. Avoid crossing arms over others’ glasses, and never mix the end of a beer with a new one: that would be rude.
To politely refuse a refill, simply leave your glass still half full.
Opening Up Beyond Goulash: Diversity and Influences
Once you’ve mastered the great classics, the culinary scene in the Czech Republic offers much more than a catalogue of saucy dishes.
Weight of the Vietnamese Community
The presence of one of the largest Vietnamese communities in Europe strongly imprints eating habits, especially in Prague. You’ll find many restaurants serving phở, bún chả, and bánh mì:
– Bun Bo Nam Bo and Banh mi ba (Rybná street) offer Vietnamese soups, stir-fried noodles, and sandwiches at low prices,
– chains like Pho Bar, or specialized stalls in the large Vietnamese market complex SAPA Praha.
In Prague’s SAPA district, you can enjoy a banh mi with a coffee for about 120 CZK. This example illustrates how this neighborhood functions as a genuine Vietnamese gastronomic hub, very popular not only with the Vietnamese community but also with Czechs themselves.
Affordable World Cuisines
The international offering, driven by the growing curiosity of younger generations and the desire to eat lighter, is constantly expanding:
– Paprika (Anděl, Vinohrady): Mediterranean bistro offering falafel, hummus, and vegetarian plates around 135–189 CZK,
– Pizza Nuova: all-you-can-eat Neapolitan pizzas and pastas (“Degustazione Napoletana”) for 385 CZK on weekday lunchtimes,
– Le Pizze di Frankie: Neapolitan pizzas starting at 165 CZK for a margherita,
– Lasagneria (Vinohrady): homemade lasagna around 169 CZK.
For an expat, this diversity allows easy alternation between “very Czech” meals and lighter or more familiar options, without necessarily spending more.
Initiation Itinerary for a New Expat
To make all this concrete, you can imagine a little route over a few days in Prague, to adapt according to your pace.
First lunch: The Czech canteen
Head to a jídelna like Havelská Koruna or Lidová jídelna Těšnov. Have a soup (bramboračka or goulash), a saucy meat dish with knedlíky, and observe the ballet of regulars. Probable amount: 150–180 CZK.
First evening: Beer and goulash immersion
Head to Lokál Dlouhááá. Order a small beer (malé pivo) to start, taste fried cheese or a goulash with dumplings. Note the texture, the role of onion, the aroma of paprika and caraway.
On the second day, a morning could start with a walk through one of Prague’s lively markets, like Náplavka (on Saturday) or Jiřího z Poděbrad. You can buy a koláč, observe the vegetable stands, farm cheeses, or bramboráky sizzling on the grill. The morning continues with a break in a café like EMA Espresso Bar, to enjoy a coffee accompanied by a buchta with plum jam.
More refined dinner: Revisited svíčková
Book a table at Café Louvre, Mincovna, or Na Pekárně (if you’re ready to leave Prague). Order a svíčková, compare it to the one tasted in the canteen: textures, balance between cream and vegetables, side dishes.
To illustrate a day of culinary discovery in Prague, we can cite a lunch composed of an assortment of chlebíčky (open-faced canapés) bought at Sisters or Lahůdky Zlatý kříž, followed by a sweet snack with a větrník (cream puff) or štrůdl (strudel) enjoyed at Café Savoy or at Myšák.
And then…
Let yourself be guided by your cravings:
– an evening at U Kroka for soups and venison;
– a more modern experience at The Eatery or Výčep to see how the new generation reinterprets the classics (pork tongue in dill sauce, marinated carp tapas-style, etc.);
– a cooking class at Chefparade or Good Food Atelier to learn to roll your own knedlíky and prepare a kulajda from A to Z.
Becoming “From Here” Through Your Plate
Learning the language takes time; learning to order a beer, a soup, and a daily special takes a day. Yet, after lining up canteen lunches, brewery evenings, afternoon café-pastries, and market visits, you surprise yourself by integrating profoundly Czech reflexes: organizing so that lunch is a real hot meal, finding it normal that beer is cheaper than water, rejoicing in a steaming soup in the middle of May, or distinguishing by taste a good svíčková from a botched version.
For an expat, this is probably one of the quickest paths to authentic integration: accepting to embrace a cuisine sometimes very different from your own, while enjoying the immense diversity offered by the culinary scene in the Czech Republic today – from canteen goulash to artisanal koláče, from centuries-old beers to vegetarian brunches, from farmers’ markets to cooking classes in historic houses.
Advice for an Expat in the Czech Republic
When settling in, you discover that “eating local” doesn’t reduce to checking off three tourist dishes in a weekend, but to making Czech cuisine a normal – and often joyful – element of your daily life. Dobrou chuť!
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