Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to São Tomé and Príncipe is a dream: lush nature, a “leve-leve” (take it easy) pace of life, and a cost of living well below Europe or North America. But behind the postcard, this small archipelago imposes very specific constraints. Poorly prepared, an expatriation can quickly turn into an administrative, financial, or medical headache.
This factual guide identifies key risks: limited healthcare system, visa and residence procedures, real estate scams and rents, banking and currency management, work constraints and taxation, as well as cultural codes to know. The goal is to arrive clear-eyed with a realistic plan.
Underestimating the Cost of Living and Setup Budget
At first glance, São Tomé and Príncipe seems very cheap. And that’s true… up to a point. Rent and some local food are significantly more affordable than in Europe or North America, but anything related to a “Western standard” can cause expenses to skyrocket.
A single expat can live comfortably on 750 to 950 euros per month, including housing, groceries, leisure, and health insurance.
One of the main traps is underestimating departure and setup costs. Besides the security deposit for housing (often 1 to 3 months’ rent, usually in cash), you need to budget for furniture and appliances if the property is sparsely equipped, which can amount to $2,000 to $5,000. Many houses or apartments also require a backup power system (generator or UPS) to handle outages, adding $500 to $1,500.
Another often overlooked point is the need for a cash cushion upon arrival: $2,000 to $3,000 in liquid funds gives you real breathing room for the first month while you get settled (housing, local bank account, understanding prices).
To give you an idea, here’s a general range of monthly rents observed locally, converted to euros:
| Type of Housing | Average Monthly Rent | Low Range | High Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1-bedroom apartment (city center) | €233 | €100 | €300 |
| 1-bedroom apartment (outside center) | €163 | €90 | €200 |
| 3-bedroom apartment (city center) | €575 | €400 | €750 |
| 3-bedroom apartment (outside center) | €450 | €300 | €600 |
And for monthly expenses, also in euros:
| Expense Item | Average Price | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Meal at a small local restaurant | €25 | Per person |
| Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant (3 courses) | €33.7 | Huge price variation |
| Fixed internet (about 60 Mbps) | €62 | Unlimited, cable/ADSL |
| Mobile plan (10 GB or more) | €24.5 | €19 to €30 depending on carrier |
| Utilities for 85 m² (electricity, water, garbage, etc.) | ~$332 | The bill can be surprising |
The real mistake isn’t so much being off by a few hundred euros in your estimates, but building your entire project on a budget that’s too tight, without accounting for specific extra costs: importing European products, medical evacuations abroad, backup electricity, distance learning, etc.
Putting Yourself at Risk by Underestimating the Healthcare System
The medical aspect is arguably the most critical and most underestimated by those considering expatriation. São Tomé and Príncipe has a universal public healthcare system, but it’s rudimentary, primarily focused on primary care and prevention. For a cold, simple infections, or common ailments, the archipelago manages. But when it comes to serious emergencies, heart conditions, cancer, high-risk pregnancies, or intensive care, local capacity is overwhelmed.
The country has around 50 health facilities: a few health centers, community health posts, and only two hospitals. The central hospital in São Tomé, Hospital Dr. Ayres de Menezes, concentrates most resources and has between 50 and 70 doctors, but it remains very limited for anything requiring advanced technology and specialists. On Príncipe, Hospital de Padrão only handles basic cases.
Medicine shortages affect more than half of households, and equipment is often outdated or missing. There is no complete private hospital with an operating room and ICU; private clinics mainly provide consultations and minor procedures.
In practice, any somewhat serious condition requires evacuation to Libreville, Lisbon, Luanda, Accra, or other regional centers, with costs that can reach $50,000 to $150,000 for a full medical repatriation. Without international insurance that includes evacuation, a major medical issue can financially ruin a household.
Start malaria prophylaxis two weeks before departure, follow advice from a travel medicine specialist, and only consume boiled or treated water (as well as pasteurized milk) because tap water is not potable in this malaria-endemic area.
Medical preparation should therefore be considered a central component of the project, not as a formality:
– Up-to-date vaccinations, checking requirements or recommendations (especially yellow fever if transiting through a risk area).
– Consultation in tropical medicine before departure.
– Solid international health insurance, including medical evacuation and high coverage limits.
– Putting together a “personal pharmacy” for several months: chronic medications, common antibiotics, painkillers, antihistamines, digestive aids, first-aid supplies.
Failing to anticipate this means risking dependence on a system described as “limited, but not broken,” which handles malaria and minor infections reasonably well but cannot handle a heart attack, serious accident, or chemotherapy.
Overlooking Visas, E-Visa, and Residency
Another classic mistake: thinking that the visa exemption regime for short stays is enough to settle there. Many European, North American, or Lusophone nationals can enter without a visa for tourist or business stays of up to 15 days. But this grants no right to work, stay long-term, or turn a discovery trip into an improvised expatriation.
For a relocation project, it’s essential to distinguish several things: entry into the territory, short-stay visa, e-visa, work visa, residence permit, renewal of documents.
The country offers an online e-visa (eVisaST) for most nationalities. Entry authorization is obtained before departure, then the visa is affixed at the airport upon payment of €20 (in cash, in euros, dollars, or local currency). The e-visa application is free but non-extendable, and requires having booked flights and accommodation. Upon arrival, you must prove a financial capacity of about €100 per day in cash.
The most frequent mistakes found in applications are bafflingly common: passport not sufficiently valid (generally must exceed stay duration by 6 months to a year depending on the case), incomplete documents (missing tickets, hotel reservations), inconsistent information between the form, attachments, and travel dates. A simple “tourist” application presented as the basis for a long-term stay is also seen as a red flag.
For a work or extended stay, you need a work visa or residence permit with an employment contract, proof of income, accommodation, sometimes family ties, diplomas, and a criminal record check; a poorly categorized application—like a tourist invitation letter for a professional relocation—risks being rejected.
The lesson to remember: clarify the purpose of your stay, check your obligations precisely with the competent diplomatic mission or immigration authority, put together a file consistent with the reality of your project, and start at least three to four weeks before departure.
Expecting to Work on a Simple Tourist Visa
On the work front, São Tomé and Príncipe works like most countries: a foreigner is not allowed to engage in paid activity without the proper permit. Leaving to “see on the ground” with the idea of finding a job through chance encounters and then switching to legal status is very risky.
A local employer wishing to hire a foreign employee must follow key steps to obtain a work authorization.
The employer proves they need a foreign employee for a specific position, with a description of duties and compensation level.
Submit a work authorization or residence-work permit application to the competent authorities.
Provide business registration, tax ID, and any sector-specific licenses.
On your end, you need to put together a personal file: passport, CV, diplomas, professional certificates, criminal record check, and possibly medical documents. Once the pre-approval is obtained, you then apply for an entry visa for employment, and then finalize the registration and issuance of the residence-work card on the ground. The process can take four to six weeks.
Rejections are often due to incomplete or expired documents, inconsistencies between the contract, CV, and form (dates, roles, employer), wrong permit category choice, missed deadlines, or a sloppy file that undermines the project’s credibility.
Actually working on a simple tourist visa, hoping to “regularize later,” exposes you to penalties and seriously compromises your chances of obtaining a proper permit afterward.
Neglecting Taxation and Resident Status
Another less visible trap is imagining that moving to São Tomé and Príncipe would allow you to completely escape taxes. The country mainly operates on a territorial system: income generated abroad is generally not taxed locally for non-residents, while income from São Tomé (salaries, business activities, rents, etc.) is taxed in the archipelago. But this does not erase obligations to your home country: a U.S. citizen remains subject to worldwide taxation by the U.S.; a Canadian tax resident must still declare all income, etc.
A São Tomé passport does not make you a tax resident if you don’t live in the country. On the other hand, a foreigner present more than 180 to 183 days per year or having their center of economic interests in São Tomé may be considered a tax resident and taxed on worldwide income, with progressive rates up to 25%.
Non-residents, for their part, are mainly taxed through a withholding tax of about 15% on most income sourced from the country. Added to this are social security contributions, which can represent nearly 12% of payroll, split between employer and employee. Finally, VAT (recently introduced, around 15% with some reduced rates) increases the effective cost of many goods and services.
Before moving to São Tomé and Príncipe, it is advisable to consult a specialist in local tax law and your home country’s tax law to analyze annual length of stay, nature of income (salaries, freelancing, dividends, rents), double taxation agreements, and risks of dual residency. This is crucial because most filing obligations are in Portuguese and require a mandatory local tax ID (NIF).
Getting Trapped by the Rental Market and Fake Leases
Real estate is another minefield for new arrivals. The land structure of São Tomé and Príncipe is very particular: about 93% of land belongs to the state, in the form of long-term concessions, while only 7% is conventional private property. In short, most houses you’ll see for rent are on land concessioned by the state to an individual or company. The owner often only has a limited-time usage right that can be contested or may not be properly registered.
Never sign a lease without thorough legal verification: if the underlying state concession is expired, invalid, or disputed, your rental contract loses all value. This is especially relevant for former agricultural estates (roças) where families have occupied land without clear title for decades, and where land registries are incomplete.
Before committing, several levels of verification are essential:
Identify whether the land is private or state-owned, demand an up-to-date Certidão de Registo Predial (including owner, mortgages, disputes, concession duration), keep in mind that the manual registry is slow and unreliable, and do a field check with repeated visits, conversations with neighbors, and observation of informal occupations.
It is highly recommended to hire a local lawyer or “solicitador” to examine titles, verify the concession’s validity, draft or review the lease, have it properly registered, and include conflict resolution clauses. This is an additional cost for your move, but one that can save you from a sudden eviction or loss of deposit.
Falling for Rental and Payment Scams
Beyond land-specific issues, São Tomé and Príncipe is not immune to classic real estate scams that primarily target foreigners: listings too good to be true, unreachable owners, requests for upfront payment through untraceable methods, fake agents, etc.
The red flags overlap with what is seen elsewhere in the world:
Rent is abnormally low (30% below market), photos are too perfect or from stock image banks, the contact person pushes for a booking without a viewing and claims to be abroad, and payment is demanded via unsecured methods (Western Union, cryptocurrencies) without a contract.
The basic rule remains universal: never send money for a property you haven’t seen or had checked by a trusted person on the ground, never use anonymous payment methods, always verify the identity of the person renting to you (copy of ID, proof of ownership or property tax notice, verifiable contact info).
Payments (deposit, first month’s rent, agency fees) should be made by check or bank transfer in the name of the owner or agency, never by irrevocable international transfer before the lease is signed. It is advisable to keep all written communications to build a case in the event of a dispute.
In case of serious doubt or suspicion of a scam, it’s best to cut off all contact, alert the listing platform, and—if money has already been transferred—immediately notify your bank and file a complaint.
Arriving Without Cash or a Monetary Strategy
Financially, one of the biggest surprises for newcomers comes from banking infrastructure and local currency. The official currency is the dobra (STN), subdivided into cêntimos. It is pegged to the euro at a fixed rate of about €1 to 24.5 STN, although a parallel exchange market exists in the capital with slightly better rates.
Problem: for a long time, ATMs were not connected to international networks. Even though some machines now accept Visa cards, the situation remains fragile: no systematic acceptance, no Mastercard, no American Express, a network limited to a few banks (BISTP, Afriland), machines that quickly run out of cash when international flights arrive, and sometimes remain out of service for several hours or days.
The country operates essentially on cash; cards are only accepted at very few high-end hotels and supermarkets. It is vital to arrive with enough euros or dollars in bills to cover your first few weeks, especially on Príncipe, where ATMs and exchange offices are very limited.
The euro is the most sought-after foreign currency and the most advantageous for exchange. Banks and hotels apply the official rate, issuing receipts. Street money changers, very present in some neighborhoods of central São Tomé, offer better rates, but with the risk of errors (rarely in your favor) or minor manipulations that are hard to contest. The ideal is to exchange only small amounts outside the banking system and keep the bulk of reserves in euros or dollars until use.
Even though restaurants and service providers often accept euros, the conversion rate may be unfavorable, especially outside tourist areas. Favor payment in local currency, and reserve euros for hotels, excursions, or visitor-oriented services.
Finally, keep in mind the possible confusion between “new” and “old” dobra, following the monetary redenomination a few years ago (1 new dobra for 1,000 old). Some merchants still think in old units mentally, which can give the impression of extravagant prices. Again, taking the time to calculate and confirm amounts before paying avoids misunderstandings.
Ignoring the Question of a Local Bank Account
For a stay of a few months, living solely on euros and dobras in cash can work, at the cost of some inconvenience. For a longer-term move, opening a local account is almost essential, if only to pay rent, an internet subscription, or a mobile phone contract more easily.
This process is done only after arrival, by going to a branch in person and presenting documents such as a passport, proof of residence, and local tax ID. Some banks offer special packages for foreign residents, with English interfaces and reduced fees.
The frequent mistake is imaging this will be set up in a few days. Between restricted bank hours (often mornings only), administrative delays, power outages, and language barriers, actually activating an account can take longer than expected. Hence the importance of having enough cash on hand before arrival to last at least a week, or more, without relying on an ATM.
Underestimating Infrastructure and Service Problems
In terms of material comfort, many new expats stumble on the same issue: assuming a level of infrastructure similar to that of other more developed island destinations. São Tomé and Príncipe remains both poor and developing, where electricity cuts out regularly, water isn’t always available from the tap, and the internet, even if present, is temperamental.
Power outages are frequent, but some hotels and establishments have diesel generators. For remote workers or digital entrepreneurs dependent on a stable connection, it is advisable to invest in a UPS, power bank, or personal generator, and choose housing based on network reliability (neighborhood, building type, presence of backup).
The administration still operates largely on paper. Procedures require physical visits to offices in São Tomé, often during limited hours. Delays of several weeks, even months, are not uncommon, due to understaffing, internet outages, or various disruptions. You cannot count on responsive, digitalized government services as in a European country.
An expatriation project that relies on an assumption of administrative efficiency or permanent connectivity is doomed to frustration. To make it long-term, you must integrate from the start this notion of structural slowness and “leve-leve,” not to accept everything passively, but to calibrate your expectations and build backup solutions.
Moving with Family Without a Realistic School Plan
For families with children, schooling is a major friction point. The archipelago has no international school in the classic sense: no accredited French high school, no IB program, no official British or American system. Public and private education follows Portuguese standards and is entirely in Portuguese, with French as the main foreign language.
For young children (under 8), immersion in Portuguese is possible after a few months of intense adjustment, but for middle and high school students without a Lusophone foundation, it’s very difficult. The quality of secondary education varies by region and social background, and although enrollment has improved since 2005, poor families still pull their children out of school for financial reasons.
In this context, most expats with school-age children opt for hybrid solutions:
Three strategies to ensure continuity of children’s education in São Tomé, combining local immersion with international programs.
Enroll in a local or private school in São Tomé for social and linguistic aspects, supplemented by a distance learning program (British, American, Canadian, or French) to ensure curriculum continuity.
Fully online education with a parent heavily involved in supervision; from a certain level, boarding school abroad may be an option.
Return to the home country for critical secondary school stages, to benefit from a suitable educational environment during this key period.
The mistake here is arriving without a plan, thinking “the kids will adapt.” Without preparation, the language barrier and differences in curriculum level can seriously compromise academic progress and create lasting distress.
Ignoring Cultural and Social Codes
Another type of misunderstanding, less spectacular but just as corrosive, arises from a deep disconnect with local social customs. São Tomé and Príncipe rarely lacks human warmth, but society has its codes, and unwittingly violating them quickly creates distance.
Greeting by saying “Bom dia,” “Boa tarde,” or “Boa noite” upon entering a shop, taxi, or office is essential and seen as basic politeness, often more important than saying thank you. Avoid brusque attitudes, public anger, or gestures of frustration, as the culture values calm and “no stress”; such behaviors will close doors.
Physical distance in conversation is closer than in Northern Europe; don’t be surprised if someone stands nearer than you’re used to. Greetings can be prolonged, handshakes longer, and sarcastic humor doesn’t always go over well.
Walking around shirtless or in swimwear outside of beaches and pools is frowned upon; cover shoulders and knees in places of worship. Do not photograph people without permission, especially women, children, and vendors, and avoid taking photos of religious sites, government buildings, military infrastructure, and the airport.
For LGBTI+ individuals, discretion is advised: public displays of affection may attract negative reactions. Generally, Catholicism and political issues are topics best approached with reserve, especially at first.
Failing at Linguistic Integration
The most common illusion among English speakers is thinking that English, a global language, will suffice. In reality, São Tomé and Príncipe is an almost entirely Lusophone country: about 98% of the population speaks Portuguese, which is the language of schools, administration, media, and daily business.
English is only really heard in a few high-end hotels and tourism-oriented establishments. In the city, at banks, phone carriers, or government offices, Portuguese dominates, sometimes French among some staff, but rarely English.
Without Portuguese, opening an account, getting a receipt, clarifying a contract, or discussing a bill can take 2 to 3 times longer and cause misunderstandings. In the long run, the language is essential for social integration, understanding cultural nuances, and making friends beyond the expat circle.
Not planning to learn, whether through online courses, a private tutor, or an intensive language stay before departure, amounts to condemning yourself to a semi-expat bubble, dependent on intermediaries for every somewhat complex task.
Dreaming of Príncipe Without Assessing the Constraints
The island of Príncipe inspires dreams with its almost untouched landscapes, low population density, and image of a preserved Eden. But for a permanent resident, it also brings extreme constraints, especially medically and logistically.
The local hospital only handles simple conditions; for any emergency requiring a specialist, a 45-minute flight to São Tomé is essential. Non-daily rotations, quick flight fill-ups, and weather hazards make these delays potentially fatal in the event of chest pain, serious accident, or obstetric complications.
Even once in São Tomé, the central hospital may deem a further evacuation to another country necessary for adequate treatment. And each step of this process requires available money, proper insurance, and support networks. Living on Príncipe with fragile health, advanced age, or young children without a solid Plan B (insurance, emergency fund, evacuation procedure) is a calculated risk, not simply a search for tranquility.
Conclusion: Expatriation Is Possible, But Only with Open Eyes
São Tomé and Príncipe can offer an exceptional living environment for certain profiles: nature lovers, researchers, volunteers, Lusophones seeking a calmer setting, remote workers able to handle connectivity hiccups, families ready to organize alternative schooling. The cost of housing, the absence of urban pressure, and the relative daily safety are real assets.
Moving to Mauritius without preparation exposes you to serious setbacks: visa refusal, health issues with no local solution, administrative deadlock, financial losses from a shaky lease, cultural isolation due to language barriers, and chaotic schooling for children, because the advantages do not outweigh the structural weaknesses of the island state.
The best protection is to turn all these “traps” into a preparation checklist: thoroughly research visas and residence permits that actually match your project, take out international health insurance with evacuation, build a realistic setup budget including a cash reserve, backup electrical equipment, and potential school fees, legally check every rental contract, arrive with enough euros in cash, and start learning Portuguese before you even leave.
With this clarity and these safeguards, a move to São Tomé and Príncipe ceases to be a leap into the unknown and becomes an informed life choice, embracing its constraints as much as its promises.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
