Expat’s Culinary Guide to Bali: Local Discovery

Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias

Welcome to the culinary paradise that is Bali! For expats newly arrived on the Island of the Gods, discovering local gastronomy is an exciting adventure that promises to awaken all your senses. Balinese cuisine, rich in flavors and traditions, is much more than just a meal—it’s a true cultural experience. In this guide, we’ll take you on a journey to uncover Bali’s culinary treasures, from colorful markets to iconic restaurants, and explore the contemporary food trends that are making the island buzz.

The Unique Flavors of Balinese Cuisine

Balinese cuisine is a feast for the taste buds, skillfully blending spices, fresh herbs, and local ingredients to create dishes of unparalleled complexity and richness. At the heart of this cuisine lies the concept of “rwa bhineda”, the balance between opposites, reflected in the harmony of sweet, salty, sour, and spicy flavors within a single dish.

Among the must-tries of Balinese gastronomy is nasi goreng, this fragrant fried rice often served with a fried egg and satay (grilled meat skewers). Babi guling, a spit-roasted suckling pig stuffed with aromatic herbs, is a true delicacy reserved for special occasions. For seafood lovers, ikan bakar, grilled fish marinated in a spicy sauce, is an absolute must-try.

Vegetarians are not left out with dishes like gado-gado, a salad of cooked vegetables served with a creamy peanut sauce, or sayur urab, a mix of steamed vegetables seasoned with grated coconut and spices.

Balinese cuisine is also renowned for its unique sauces and condiments. Sambal, a paste of crushed chilies mixed with various ingredients, is ubiquitous and varies by region and dish. Sambal matah, typical of Bali, is a raw preparation made with shallots, chilies, lemongrass, and coconut, adding an incomparable freshness to dishes.

Good to know:

Balinese cuisine is characterized by the abundant use of spices and fresh herbs like turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves. These ingredients are not only delicious but also have recognized medicinal properties in Balinese tradition.

Traditional Markets: A Total Immersion

To truly understand and appreciate Balinese cuisine, nothing beats a visit to the island’s traditional markets. These vibrant, colorful places are the beating heart of local culinary life, where Balinese people come daily to stock up on fresh produce.

The Badung Market in Denpasar is one of the largest and busiest in Bali. From dawn, this market buzzes with activity, offering an impressive variety of tropical fruits and vegetables, fragrant spices, fresh meats, and just-caught fish. It’s the perfect place to discover unique local ingredients like durian (that fruit with such a distinctive smell), snake fruit (or salak) with its crunchy texture, or mangosteen, nicknamed “the queen of fruits” for its delicate flavor.

For a more intimate experience, the Ubud Market offers a more relaxed atmosphere and is particularly renowned for its medicinal herb stalls and traditional preparations like jamu, a tonic drink made from turmeric and ginger.

Visiting these markets is an excellent way to immerse yourself in Balinese culinary culture. Don’t hesitate to strike up conversations with the vendors, who will be happy to explain the use of different ingredients and maybe even share some family recipes.

A few tips to make the most of your market visit:

  • Arrive early in the morning to see the market come alive and get the freshest products
  • Don’t hesitate to taste fruits and vegetables you don’t know
  • Bring small bills to make your purchases easier
  • Practice your basic Indonesian—a simple “terima kasih” (thank you) will always make vendors smile

Good to know:

Balinese markets are often divided into specific sections. The fruit and vegetable area is usually separate from the meat and fish section. There are also sections dedicated to religious offerings, essential in Balinese culture.

Iconic Restaurants: Between Tradition and Innovation

Bali is full of restaurants that celebrate local cuisine while adding a modern touch. These establishments offer an excellent opportunity to discover Balinese gastronomy in a comfortable and often spectacular setting.

In Ubud, Bali’s cultural heart, the restaurant Locavore has made a name for itself by offering inventive cuisine based exclusively on local, seasonal products. Their tasting menu is a true culinary odyssey that highlights the richness of Indonesian ingredients.

For a more traditional experience in an enchanting setting, Warung Tugu in Canggu offers a journey back in time with its ancestral recipes served amidst Indonesian antiques. Their bebek betutu, duck stuffed with spices and slow-cooked in banana leaves, is an absolute must-try.

In Seminyak, the restaurant Merah Putih impresses as much with its spectacular architecture as with its cuisine that reimagines Indonesian classics with a contemporary twist. Their rendang, a beef stew simmered in coconut milk and spices, is particularly remarkable.

For seafood lovers, Ikan in Jimbaran offers a selection of ultra-fresh fish and shellfish that you can choose yourself before they are grilled to perfection. Dining on the beach at sunset there is an unforgettable experience.

These restaurants are just the tip of the iceberg of Bali’s culinary scene. Don’t hesitate to explore the small warungs (family-run restaurants) in your neighborhood for authentic and often delicious experiences at very affordable prices.

Good to know:

Many upscale restaurants in Bali offer cooking classes. It’s an excellent way to learn the secrets of Balinese cuisine and bring a bit of that culinary magic home with you.

Table Etiquette: Navigating Cultural Subtleties

Understanding Balinese table etiquette is essential for integrating and showing respect for local culture. Whether in a family, professional, or formal setting, certain basic rules apply:

  • Wait for the host to invite you to start the meal
  • It is common to eat with the right hand, as the left is considered impure
  • Try all the dishes offered, even in small amounts, to show your appreciation
  • Always leave a little food on your plate at the end of the meal to show you are full
  • Business meals are often more formal. Use utensils if available
  • Avoid sensitive conversation topics like politics or religion
  • It is common for the host to insist on paying the bill. Accept graciously, but offer to pay next time
  • Dress appropriately, often in traditional clothing
  • Wait to be served and don’t start eating until everyone has been served
  • Dishes are often served buffet-style. Serve yourself reasonably so everyone can taste
  • Never point your finger at food or people
  • Avoid blowing on your food to cool it down
  • Never serve yourself directly from the communal dish with your personal utensils
  • Always thank for the meal by saying “terima kasih” (thank you)

Good to know:

In Balinese culture, sharing food is considered a sacred act. Meals are often preceded by a small offering to the gods. Respect this moment of reflection even if you don’t share these beliefs.

Contemporary Culinary Trends in Bali

Although deeply rooted in its traditions, Bali’s culinary scene is constantly evolving, influenced by global trends and the influx of international visitors. Here are some trends currently shaping the island’s gastronomic landscape:

1. The “farm-to-table” movement More and more restaurants in Bali are adopting a locavore approach, sourcing directly from local farmers. The restaurant Moksa in Ubud takes this concept even further by growing most of its ingredients in its own permaculture garden.

2. Fusion cuisine Balinese chefs are not afraid to blend traditional techniques and ingredients with international influences. The restaurant Kaum in Seminyak, for example, offers Indonesian cuisine reimagined with a contemporary touch, like their “Balinese-style ceviche.”

3. Vegetarianism and veganism With the increasing demand for vegetarian and vegan options, many restaurants have specialized in this niche. Zest in Ubud offers creative vegan cuisine that will appeal even to the most committed carnivores.

4. Trendy cafes Coffee culture has exploded in Bali in recent years. Establishments like Revolver Espresso in Seminyak or Seniman Coffee in Ubud offer specialty coffees and brunches worthy of the best addresses in Melbourne or New York.

5. Creative mixology Bali’s cocktail bars are competing in inventiveness, incorporating local ingredients into their creations. Night Rooster in Ubud, for example, offers cocktails based on arak (local rice alcohol) and Balinese spices.

These trends testify to the vitality and creativity of Bali’s culinary scene. Don’t hesitate to venture off the beaten path to discover these gastronomic innovations that make Bali a top culinary destination.

Good to know:

Bali hosts several gastronomic festivals each year that highlight these culinary trends. The Ubud Food Festival, for example, is an excellent way to discover the latest innovations in the local culinary scene.

Finding International Ingredients in Bali

Although local cuisine is delicious, it’s natural for expats to sometimes crave cooking dishes from their home country. Fortunately, with the increase in the number of expats and tourists, it’s becoming easier to find international ingredients in Bali.

  • Pepito Market: Present in several locations in Bali, Pepito offers a wide range of imported products, including European and American ones.
  • Bintang Supermarket: With several branches in tourist areas, Bintang offers an interesting selection of international products.
  • Carrefour: The French giant has several stores in Bali, offering a good balance between local and imported products.
  • Deli Cat & Co in Canggu: Specializing in European products, it’s the ideal place to find quality cheeses, cold cuts, and wines.
  • Sage in Ubud: An organic grocery store offering many health products and vegan alternatives that are hard to find elsewhere.
  • Grocer & Grind in Seminyak: In addition to being an excellent café, they offer a selection of imported gourmet products.
  • Samadi Sunday Market in Canggu: This weekly market is an excellent source of organic and artisanal products, including locally made cheeses and breads.
  • Ubud Organic Market: Held twice a week, this market is a goldmine for organic, local, and imported products.

Online ordering: Several grocery delivery services have developed in Bali in recent years. Platforms like Bali Direct or Toko Organik allow you to order a wide range of international products directly from home.

  • Join expat Facebook groups in Bali. They are often an excellent source of information on where to find specific products.
  • Don’t hesitate to ask restaurant owners from your home country. They often have good contacts for importing specific ingredients.
  • Learn to use local substitutes. For example, kaffir lime can often replace lemon zest in many recipes.

Good to know:

Prices for imported products can be significantly higher than in Europe or the United States. This is the perfect opportunity to explore local cuisine and learn to cook with the ingredients available on site!

Conclusion: Embracing Bali’s Culinary Richness

Discovering Balinese gastronomy is a fascinating journey that goes far beyond simple tasting. It’s an immersion into a rich culture, a millennia-old history, and a unique philosophy of life. As an expat in Bali, you have the chance to explore this culinary richness daily, from traditional markets to innovative restaurants and small neighborhood warungs.

Don’t be afraid to experiment, try new dishes, and learn to cook with local ingredients. Balinese cuisine, with its complex flavors and unique techniques, has much to offer, even to the most discerning palates. At the same time, Bali’s contemporary culinary scene, influenced by global trends and driven by creative chefs, offers a gastronomic diversity that will satisfy all your cravings.

Remember that food in Bali is much more than just a means of sustenance. It’s a vector of sharing, conviviality, and spirituality. By understanding and respecting local culinary traditions, you will not only make wonderful taste discoveries but also integrate more easily into your new community.

So, whether you’re savoring a succulent babi guling in a local warung, sipping an innovative cocktail in a trendy Seminyak bar, or preparing your own version of nasi goreng in your kitchen, savor every moment of your culinary adventure in Bali. Because it’s through these taste experiences that you will truly get to know and love this extraordinary island.

Good to know:

Balinese cuisine is constantly evolving, influenced by global trends while remaining true to its roots. Stay curious and open-minded, because every meal in Bali can be a new discovery!

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About the author
Cyril Jarnias

Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.

On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.

Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.

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