Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Settling in Ecuador means gaining a new country and, very quickly, a new plate. Between the Andes, the Amazon, the Pacific coast, and the Galápagos, the local gastronomy changes from one climate to another, from one market to another, sometimes from one valley to the next. For an expat, understanding what you eat is one of the fastest ways to decode the culture, make friends, and feel “from here.”
This guide is designed for residents and offers concrete tips: places to visit, dishes to try, how to choose a cooking class, which markets to go to, as well as advice for enjoying street food while staying healthy.
Understanding Ecuadorian cuisine when you settle in
Living in Ecuador means eating at the crossroads of several culinary worlds. The cuisine blends indigenous ingredients, Spanish colonial heritage, and Afro-Ecuadorian influences, all reinvented by a new generation of chefs and neighborhood cooks.
Ecuador is divided into four distinct culinary regions. On the coast, the cuisine centers on seafood, rice, coconut, and plantain. In the Andean highlands, dishes highlight potatoes in all their forms, corn, quinoa, pork, sometimes cuy (grilled guinea pig), and many hearty soups. In the Amazon, the staples are yuca, river fish, plantains, and more unusual proteins like chontacuro palm larvae. Finally, the Galápagos archipelago stands out for its ultra-fresh fish and renowned coffee.
Despite these differences, some pillars appear everywhere: potatoes, corn and hominy (mote), rice, yuca (cassava), plantains, beans, as well as an abundance of tropical fruits. Protein varies by region: chicken, beef, pork, goat, seafood, and also cuy in the highlands.
For an expat, the first habit to adopt is to mentally invert meals: here, lunch (almuerzo) is the focal point of the day, served between noon and 4 p.m. Many small eateries (huecas) only open in the morning and close in the late afternoon. In the evening, people eat lighter snacks.
The lunch special, the best entry point
The best way to understand local cuisine without blowing your budget is to frequent huecas and their daily lunch specials. For $2 to $5, you usually get:
– a soup,
– a main dish (meat or fish with rice, potatoes, plantain, salad, mote),
– a fruit juice,
– sometimes a small dessert.
Even in big cities like Quito, Cuenca, or Guayaquil, the typical dish formula remains the norm. This culinary approach lets you taste an impressive number of specialties in just a few weeks, such as locro de papa, menestras, encebollado, seco de pollo or seco de chivo, fritada, hornado, and bolón de verde.
Another important cultural detail: Ecuadorian cuisine is not naturally very spicy. Heat is “on the side,” in a small bowl of sauce called ají, placed on the table. It’s often made with local chili, tree tomato (tomate de árbol), cilantro, lime, and sometimes peanut or passion fruit. This sauce is how you adjust the heat in your dish.
Quito: Andean capital, culinary laboratory
The capital, perched at 2,850 meters in the highlands, is a real playground for a food-loving expat. Its high altitude extends the cooking time for soups and stews, but above all it concentrates all the regions of the country in a single city.
Eating Quito: from the market to the gastronomic table
The range is wide. In the historic center, markets like Mercado Central, San Francisco, Santa Clara, or San Roque overflow with stalls serving typical dishes for a few dollars: hornado, llapingachos, caldo de gallina, ceviche in its popular version, or steaming locro de papa. A few streets away, historic cafés like Cafetería Modelo or Fabiolita keep the classic snacks alive – humitas, quimbolitos, empanadas – that Quiteños have for breakfast or an afternoon snack.
In modern neighborhoods like La Mariscal, La Floresta, La Carolina, or Cumbayá, contemporary restaurants revisit these same recipes with organic products, careful plating, and wine and craft beer lists. Several places listed in guides – Urko, Zazu, Somos, Nuema, Quitu – even build their tasting menus around ingredients from the Amazon, the coast, and the highlands, with a strong focus on local terroir.
For an expat, this allows a double learning experience: eat like locals in the huecas at noon, then observe, in the evening, how the capital’s chefs reinterpret the same base of products.
Neighborhoods to know for good eating
The historic center (Centro Histórico) is ideal for starting out: you’ll find the oldest markets, dulcerías, and a host of very affordable small establishments, often more authentic than in tourist areas. In La Mariscal, more tourist-oriented, options expand to international cuisines, modern breweries, and restaurants serving “modern Ecuadorian” food. La Floresta, more bohemian, combines specialty coffee shops, small vegetarian spots, organic stores, and author restaurants.
In the Metropolitan District, covered markets are ubiquitous in every neighborhood. They are open from morning until mid-afternoon, often equipped with good refrigeration and a dedicated area for food stalls, making them essential points of sale for produce.
Cooking classes in Quito: learning by doing
For an expat, taking a cooking class is a fantastic shortcut to understanding local gastronomy. Just in the city and its surroundings, the offering is surprisingly rich and very structured around the cultural experience.
Several formats come up repeatedly: guided market tour, explanation of products (plantain, corn, many potato varieties, quinoa, fresh cheeses, medicinal herbs), then a hands-on workshop and shared meal. Most classes welcome both beginners and good amateurs and take place in small groups, often even private settings.
Among the experiences mentioned in research, you’ll find:
Detailed description of the first research experience mentioned.
Detailed description of the second research experience mentioned.
– complete workshops with a chef and market tour, resulting in a three-course menu around dishes like Locro Quiteño, fish encocado, and chocolate desserts,
– a “premium” class including a traditional cocktail, the canelazo, plus local empanadas, Ecuadorian ceviche, and figs in caramel syrup,
– interactive experiences with chefs like Edwin or Andres, closely tied to the markets (the former is even nicknamed “Samurai” by vendors), who guide participants in choosing ingredients and then lead a fully participatory cooking session.
The recipes highlighted speak for themselves: ceviches from different regions, locro de papa, llapingachos, empanadas, fish or shrimp encocado, quinoa soups, steamed desserts like quimbolitos or humitas corn cakes, not to mention the chocolate presentation – with as much importance given to cacao as to the savory dish.
These classes, taught in English or Spanish, offer a hands-on and social experience. They provide dietary options (vegetarian, vegan, lactose-free, gluten-free), often include hotel transfer, and let you make contacts in a friendly atmosphere centered around preparing and sharing a meal.
Between gastronomy and drinks: coffee, chocolate, and craft beer
Quito also offers the ideal context to understand two pillars of local food culture: chocolate and coffee. Ecuador produces a significant share of the world’s fine-flavor cacao, notably through varieties like Nacional. In the historic center, “cacao experiences” let you follow the entire process, from bean to hot chocolate, including tastings of beans, fondue, cacao beers, or liqueurs.
Premium brands – Pacari, Yumbos, República del Cacao, Hoja Verde, To’ak – offer comparative tastings of single-origin chocolates from different regions, an ideal playground for any dark-chocolate-loving expat. On the coffee side, bean-to-cup workshops let you understand the difference between arabica and robusta, the origins of Salango, Zaruma, Paute, or Loja, and the most popular brewing methods in the city.
Finally, the capital has seen a boom in microbreweries, with craft beer tastings where you sample several varieties before choosing your pint, often accompanied by local snacks.
Cuenca, Guayaquil, the coast, and the Amazon: expanding the playground
Settling in Ecuador doesn’t necessarily mean living in Quito. Many expats choose Cuenca, quieter and more cultural, or Guayaquil and the coast for the warm climate, or even the Amazon for a very different experience. Gastronomically, these choices have a direct impact on daily life.
Cuenca: the Andes on your plate, gently
In Cuenca, markets like “10 de Agosto” play a central role. You’ll find entire floors dedicated to inexpensive dining, as well as fruits, vegetables, spices, and dairy products. It’s the perfect place to taste hornado accompanied by llapingachos, or local soups like locro de papas.
Cuenca has also positioned itself on the cooking class front. Several “Andean cooking” workshops offer:
– market tour to select organic products,
– cooking session in a private home,
– learning recipes such as locro de papas, empanadas de viento, mountain ceviche (ceviche serrano), fig desserts (dulce de higo with cheese) and contemporary variations of canelazo.
Some classes go up to eight recipes in a single session, with a tasting of selected chocolate at the end of the menu. For an expat living there, these workshops are an excellent gateway into Cuenca culture, known for its serene pace and strong Andean identity.
Guayaquil and the coast: kingdom of fish and cacao
On the coast and in the large port city of Guayaquil, the mood changes. The cuisine is more briny, more citrusy, more generous with plantains and coconut. Ceviche comes in endless variations, fish is made encocado, and soups like encebollado or fish/shellfish viche serve as both brunch and hangover remedies.
Several excursions from Guayaquil combine agricultural discovery with culinary experience. They include visiting cacao farms to observe the harvest, learning how beans are transformed into chocolate bars, and sharing a homemade lunch using garden and orchard produce. Some tours extend to the cloud forest, combining hiking, visits to sugarcane plantations with a traditional press (trapiche) demonstration, and a typical meal often ending with a chocolate dessert.
Other excursions pair a half-day historical tour of Guayaquil (colonial center, cacao museums) with a cooking workshop, or a mangrove trip with canoe navigation, a visit to a cacao finca, and a fish or seafood meal.
For an expat settled on the coast, these activities are an opportunity to connect with small producers, better understand the cacao industry – very important to the local economy – and learn to cook what you find at the market: encocados, shrimp or fish ceviches, green plantains in bolón, fritters, or patties.
Amazon and Galápagos: cuisines at the edge of the world
In the Ecuadorian Amazon, gastronomy is first and foremost about context. Some indigenous communities welcome visitors to taste dishes like maito (fish or chicken wrapped in leaves and grilled), yuca bread, river fish soups, or, for those who like to push their limits, grilled palm larvae (chontacurros).
The traditional drink remains at the heart of community life. Long prepared by chewing yuca before fermentation, today it’s more often made by maceration, but it still holds ritual status.
Yuca or corn chicha
In the Galápagos, the food scene is mainly centered on the main islands like Santa Cruz or San Cristóbal. Again, the approach is simple and very focused on freshness: whole or filleted fish grilled on the docks, ceviches made with tuna or shellfish, seafood soups, local coffee. Multi-day culinary tours combine cooking classes, market strolls, seafood tastings, and, of course, marine wildlife observation.
Getting into street food while staying safe
Street food is an integral part of daily life in Ecuador. Festivals, weekly markets, weekend plazas, bus stops, beaches: everywhere you find stalls offering empanadas, salchipapas, huevitos chilenos, fruit juices, artisanal ice cream, cevichocho, grilled plantains, helado de paila, fried cakes, corn-based drinks, and more.
The authorities have a national agency in charge of health surveillance, but in practice, the rigor of controls varies a lot from place to place and vendor to vendor. For an expat, especially at first, a few habits help you enjoy this culture without ending up in bed for days.
It’s recommended to favor busy stalls where food is replenished quickly, check general hygiene (utensils, food covering, hand washing), and choose dishes served very hot and freshly prepared. Conversely, avoid raw salads, suspiciously cheap meat, and mayonnaise-based products left at room temperature for hours.
Fruits and vegetables should be washed thoroughly, even when from supermarkets, and the rule “peel it, cook it, boil it, or forget it” still applies for those with sensitive stomachs. Tap water is not considered potable: it’s advisable to drink only bottled or filtered water, and to ensure ice cubes are made with treated water, especially outside major cities.
Experiences vary by person: some never get sick, while others can have issues, often related to water or pre-cut fruit. Your constitution and habits matter. It’s wise to pack basic medication like anti-diarrheals, rehydration salts, and probiotics.
Markets: the heart of culinary life
Whether it’s the covered markets of Quito, the market halls of Cuenca, or the great indigenous markets like Otavalo or Guamote, these places concentrate everything that matters in the country’s food: raw products, prepared dishes, remedies, sociability, bargaining.
Quito: an archipelago of markets
In the capital, almost every neighborhood has its market, most open six days a week, often from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. If you get into the habit of always visiting the same stalls, the relationship quickly changes: vendors set aside the best mangoes, discreetly slip you a “yapa” – a little extra given for customer loyalty – and sometimes give cooking tips.
Discover the iconic markets of Quito, where authentic flavors, fresh produce, and local crafts come together.
Between Esmeraldas and Manabí streets. Famous for its cheap local dishes, especially on the lower level with its counters of ceviche, soups, and stews.
The oldest. Combines food stalls, traditional herbalism, and artisans, offering a unique cultural experience.
Santa Clara, Iñaquito, La Floresta, Calderón, and Cotocollao. So many landmarks to find fruits, vegetables, meat, spices, fresh cheeses, and prepared dishes.
Some municipalities also organize weekly organic markets in parks like La Carolina, La Floresta, Parque Bicentenario, or in the La Mariscal neighborhood (Mercado Saludable). For an expat concerned with nutritional quality, these farmers’ markets are a goldmine: you’ll find pesticide-free produce, bulk grains, rare herbs, and sometimes even imported products that are harder to find elsewhere.
Andean markets, coastal markets, Amazon markets
Outside the capital, every major city has at least one reference market. Cuenca relies on “10 de Agosto”, where people come as much for groceries as for lunch. Guayaquil, meanwhile, has modernized part of its offering with a large food hall type mercado gastronómico on the Malecón, where more than 500 food options coexist, from the most traditional to the most fusion.
Beyond traditional crafts (ponchos, instruments, hats), Ecuador’s indigenous markets like Otavalo, Saquisili, Zumbahua, or Guamote offer a rich culinary experience. You’ll find local specialties such as sweet fritters (chilenos) and grilled cuy, as well as everyday items like guinea pigs, cheeses, medicinal plants, and takeaway dishes.
On the coast, fish markets like the one in Puerto Ayora (Galápagos) have their own atmosphere: fishermen unloading the day’s catch, sea lions and pelicans lying in ambush, cutting stands, and impromptu ceviche bars. That’s where you truly measure how seafood is omnipresent in the local diet.
Bargaining, observing, learning
For an expat, markets are also places of social learning. In produce markets, bargaining remains moderate, unless you buy in bulk. It’s better to ask for a yapa than to aggressively haggle down prices. In craft markets, on the other hand, haggling is part of the game, with the idea of landing often around 50 to 75% of the initial asking price.
An unwritten rule: stay respectful. Most vendors are modest families; getting a few cents off by being sharp doesn’t make much sense. It’s better to use these spaces to practice your Spanish, ask questions about products, and jot down local names for fruits, potato varieties, or herbs.
Cooking classes: an integration tool
For an expat, especially at the beginning, it’s easy to stick to a few reassuring dishes – ceviche, potato soups, grilled chicken, empanadas – and stay away from lesser-known recipes. Cooking classes help you cross that barrier.
What typical classes look like
Whether in Quito, Cuenca, or on the coast, most workshops follow a similar pattern:
The typical example starts with a morning meeting, followed by a walk to a local market (like Central, Santa Clara, or 10 de Agosto). It includes a guided tour of the stalls with explanations about seasonal products, their culinary uses, and traditional remedies. The group then returns to a kitchen (in a restaurant, school, home, or rooftop terrace) to collectively prepare a full menu: appetizer, main course, dessert, and sometimes a traditional drink like canelazo. The activity ends with a shared meal and a discussion about the recipes, their regional variations, and how to reproduce them at home.
The organizations running these experiences emphasize the “handmade” aspect and the transmission of authentic recipes. Some, like Traveling Spoon, specialize in home-cooked meals and classes, after carefully selecting their hosts. Others rely on certified chefs, partner restaurants, or local agencies.
What an expat gains from them
Beyond technique, these classes offer a concrete understanding of Ecuadorian cuisine. You discover how to transform fresh corn into humitas, which potato varieties work for locro, why coastal ceviches differ from highland ones, how to use herbs – cilantro, hierba luisa, cedrón – or which fruits are best for juices, desserts, or sauces.
Many cooking workshops provide a recipe booklet, an apron, and a chef’s hat. They also offer advice on adapting dishes for allergies or personal beliefs, such as vegetarian or vegan versions, replacing cow’s milk with plant-based milks, or managing gluten. These elements are valuable for expats wanting to keep their dietary habits while discovering local cuisine.
Finally, these moments often become social bubbles: you meet other foreigners, but also curious locals, exchange tips on daily life, market finds, or restaurants, and even on festivals and culinary events (Fanesca soups at Easter, colada morada and guaguas de pan for All Saints’ Day, roast pork for New Year’s).
Comparing a few formats
Even though each class has its own personality, we can distinguish a few broad categories useful for choosing as an expat:
| Type of experience | Main content | Which expat profile? |
|---|---|---|
| Market + restaurant cooking class | Full menu, professional chef, tour of a major urban market | New arrivals, curious, English speakers |
| Home-cooking workshop (e.g., with Maria in Sangolquí) | Family recipes, garden, welcome drink | Authenticity seekers, Spanish speakers |
| Rooftop or “surprise” venue with a view | Buffet of specialties, traditional cocktail, ambiance | Groups of friends, long-term expats |
| Day trip (cacao farm, rose farm, etc.) | Agriculture + cooking workshop + walk | Terroir lovers, families with kids |
| Multi-day stays (Galápagos, private tours) | Cooking + nature visits + producer meetups | Expats on internal vacations, passionate foodies |
Managing your diet on a daily basis
Living in Ecuador long-term raises different questions than a short tourist trip. How to put together balanced meals when the menus are very heavy on starches? Where to find “health” products or ones close to those from your home country? How to balance culinary curiosity with digestive tolerance?
Too much rice, too much bread? Adapting the plate
The standard almuerzo easily piles up rice, potatoes, plantains, and sometimes corn, all accompanied by a piece of meat. For some expats, this repeated combination eventually weighs heavy, literally and symbolically.
You can adjust gently: ask for a smaller portion of rice, favor dishes based on vegetable soups or quinoa, seek out restaurants that offer more vegetables (plenty in Quito and Cuenca, including vegetarian or vegan spots), or simply vary your eating venues to alternate between traditional cuisine and lighter options.
To reintroduce healthy foods like whole grains, plant-based milks, seeds, dried fruits, or specific products (gluten-free, organic), favor supermarkets and specialty stores. In Quito, visit Supermaxi, Megamaxi, Yuniq, Superfoods, or Bhumi. In Cuenca, go to Supermercados El Olivo or certain delicatessens. For fresh fruits and vegetables, local markets offer a wide variety to incorporate into your salads, soups, and juices.
Between local and imported products
One thing that often surprises expats in the food aisle: some things are extraordinarily cheap and fresh – fruits, vegetables, eggs, herbs, coffee, chocolate – while others become luxury items – imported peanut butter, aged cheeses, maple syrup, “American-style” breakfast cereals, very specific sauces.
Specialty shops in Quito (Pacari Store, Hoja Verde, gourmet grocery stores) and Cuenca (Cuenca Shop, La Yunta Deli, Italdeli, etc.) target exactly this clientele by offering a selection of imported goods (oils, condiments, cereals, sauces, chocolates, specialty coffees). Prices remain higher than in the country of origin, but allow for practical compromises.
To optimize your budget and dietary well-being abroad, base most of your diet on fresh local produce, which is often very affordable and high quality. Then supplement with a small selection of imported products that are dear or familiar to you, such as a good olive oil, a hard cheese, muesli, specific tea or coffee, or a few spices you can’t find locally.
Health, vaccines, and first-aid kit
On the medical front, general recommendations for Ecuador are clear: only bottled or filtered water, fruits you peel yourself, well-cooked foods. Health authorities from several countries recommend being up-to-date on vaccinations for tetanus, diphtheria, typhoid, and hepatitis A, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for certain nationalities who have visited other tropical neighboring countries.
For the Amazon, a yellow fever vaccine is recommended, along with mosquito precautions (repellent, mosquito net) due to the presence of malaria or Zika virus in some areas. Having travel or health insurance covering Ecuador is strongly advised, even when residing there.
Finally, keeping a small first-aid kit dedicated to digestive issues (anti-diarrheals, prescription antibiotics, probiotics, rehydration salts, activated charcoal, acetaminophen) saves you from urgently searching for a pharmacy in the middle of the night after a questionable ceviche.
Drinks to understand the country
You can’t discover Ecuadorian gastronomy without paying attention to what you drink. Beyond the ubiquitous fruit juices, several drinks structure the calendar and daily life.
Non-alcoholic drinks
From the morning, jugos naturales – freshly squeezed naranjilla, maracuyá, guava, tree tomato, pineapple, babaco, mora – often accompany breakfast. You can ask for con leche (milkshake version) or con agua (simple juice).
In the highlands, you often come across: breathtaking landscapes, wild animals, and passionate hikers.
– morocho, a thick drink made from cracked white corn cooked in milk with sugar, cinnamon, and sometimes raisins,
– colada de avena, a blend of oats, panela, cinnamon, and naranjilla, served hot or cold,
– horchata lojana, an infusion of dozens of flowers and medicinal herbs, traditionally from Loja, drunk hot or iced.
In the evening, in some Andean cities, it’s common to have a cup of leche con morocho (similar to a liquid rice pudding), herbal infusions (chamomile, lemon verbena, toronjil, mint), or more elaborate tisanes called aguas de remedio or agua de pitimas, often prepared by cloistered nuns in Quito.
Festive and seasonal drinks
Some drinks are inseparable from specific celebrations. Colada morada, a thick purple drink made from black corn, berries, spices, and panela, is drunk with guaguas de pan around the Day of the Dead in early November, at home, on the street, or at the cemetery. Fanesca, a rich grain and cod soup, also has its season at Easter, sometimes accompanied by specific fruit juices.
At Christmas, rompope, a drink similar to eggnog, is traditionally served. For the Quito festival or major events in the highlands, canelazo is popular: a warm mix of aguardiente (sugarcane alcohol), water, panela, cinnamon, and naranjilla, served in cups at counters and night stalls to warm up the streets and terraces.
Local alcohol: consume knowledgeably
Aguardiente – often sold under the brand Zhumir or in artisanal form – forms the base of many cocktails. Its strength varies but can reach 60 proof, hence the need to consume it in moderation. Flavored versions, with lime or passion fruit, also exist. In some villages, alcohols are still made from agave sap (mishke) or sugarcane (chaguarmishqui, guarapo), sometimes slightly fermented.
Beer remains the most common alcoholic drink, with national brands like Pilsener or Club, but a growing number of microbreweries are exploring amber styles, IPAs, stouts, etc. For wine lovers, most of the offering comes from Argentina or Chile.
Cultural cues at the table
Understanding local gastronomy also means absorbing a few social codes. Ecuador remains a rather conservative country, attached to politeness and family values.
You always greet before speaking – buenos días, buenas tardes, buenas noches – and it’s well regarded to say or reply to a buen provecho when entering or leaving a restaurant. At the table, service usually begins with soup; refusing it may surprise. Meals are social moments where people linger after eating, especially at lunch.
In formal or professional situations, using ‘usted’ and titles (Señor, Señora, Doctor, etc.) is still customary. Regarding punctuality, it’s common to arrive about thirty minutes late in a social setting (like a dinner among friends), while punctuality is more expected for professional appointments.
Also, the use of knife and fork extends to many foods that might be eaten with fingers elsewhere. As for splitting bills, it’s less automatic than in some countries: the person who invites often intends to pay.
What cooking classes change for an expat
Over the months, many expats notice the same thing: what they’ll remember most from Ecuador isn’t just the volcanoes or the forest, but that locro de papa eaten on a misty morning at the market, that first cuy bravely tried, that ceviche grabbed at a counter on the dock, or that canelazo shared on a rooftop overlooking old Quito.
Participating in cooking classes in Ecuador turns an appreciation for a dish like encebollado into a concrete skill: knowing how to choose fish, balance the lime, and simmer the yuca. Similarly, the simple impression left by the San Francisco market becomes practical knowledge: recognizing potato varieties, identifying the best vendors, and knowing the quietest days to shop.
Cooking then becomes much more than a series of dishes: it’s a language. An expat who learns to speak it – even with an accent – integrates faster, understands the country’s rhythms, implicit hierarchies, celebrations, mourning, and joys shared around a pot or a kettle.
And Ecuador, small in size but immense in culinary diversity, offers an almost inexhaustible learning ground. Between markets, cooking classes, neighborhood huecas, innovative restaurants, cacao farms, specialty coffee shops, and street food stalls, there’s enough to fill years of expat life – plate after plate.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
