Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Settling in Latvia means accepting two inseparable realities: a very green country focused on nature, and a climate that can surprise even Northern Europeans. Bitter cold, humidity, winds from the sea, long winter nights, but also endless summer days… The climate shock is real for many expats. Yet, with a bit of foresight and a good dose of pragmatism, this climate becomes less of an obstacle and more of a living environment to tame.
This article provides a guide for adapting to the local climate. It explains how to understand the seasons, choose your gear, protect your health, organize your daily life, and above all, enjoy the specific advantages this climate offers.
Understanding Latvia’s Climate to Better Prepare
Latvia experiences a humid continental climate, with strong maritime influences along the coast. Concretely, this means four very distinct seasons, year-round humidity, and noticeable variations between the Baltic coastline and the interior.
The first key to adaptation for an expat is to understand that the “Latvian cold” is not just about degrees, but also about duration, humidity, wind, and light.
Winter: The Real Test for Expats
Latvian winter effectively runs from November to March, even early April. Average temperatures from December to February often range between -5 °C and -2 °C, but this average masks a harsher reality. Episodes of severe cold with -20 °C, -25 °C, or even -30 °C are not theoretical: they occur regularly, especially inland and in the northeast. Extreme readings down to -34 °C or -35 °C have been reported.
On the coast – in Liepāja, Ventspils, or Cape Kolka, for example – the sea slightly moderates extremes, with February averages around -1 °C to -2 °C. In Riga, the winter average in February is around -2.5 °C. The farther you move from the Gulf of Riga toward the east (Gulbene, Rēzekne, Daugavpils), the winters become frankly continental and sharp.
The cold local wind called “papepēdio,” combined with humidity, strongly amplifies the feeling of cold. On the shores of the Gulf of Riga, a temperature of -5 °C with wind and humidity can feel more aggressive and deceptive than a dry, calm -15 °C, showing that reading a thermometer alone is insufficient to assess the wind chill.
Snow is normally present throughout winter, even if recent years show a trend toward milder winters, later starts, and more irregular snowfall. Roads and sidewalks become slippery; “black ice” – a thin, invisible layer of ice – is a constant threat, especially around 0 °C, in the morning and evening, on bridges, near water areas, and on small rural roads.
Added to this is the issue of light: in December, you get about six to seven hours of daylight per day, with a “solar winter” (less than nine hours of light) from early November to early February. Low clouds, frequent overcast, rare sun: it’s as much a physical challenge as a psychological one.
Spring: Late, Damp, and Sometimes Frustrating
For many expats, Latvian spring is disorienting. While elsewhere March and April are associated with renewal, here the reality is slower. Snow can linger until early April, mud and meltwater dominate the landscape, and temperatures hover around 0 °C, with cool, damp, often windy air.
It’s only from mid-April onward that days become genuinely milder and the sun takes over. May remains a transitional period: the beginning of the month is still cool, sometimes frankly cold, followed by a gradual rise toward highs that finally exceed 20 °C. Spring in Latvia must be “earned”: it requires patience, but the reward is spectacular when nature finally explodes.
Description of spring in Latvia
Summer: Mildness, Light, and Rain
Summer is the prime season to discover the country… and the most pleasant for a newcomer. From June to August, temperatures are generally mild to warm without excess. On the west coast, July-August highs average around 21.5 °C, while inland (Riga, Daugavpils, Cēsis…) they are closer to 23.5 °C on average.
Heat peaks are possible: some years, values near or above 30 °C, or even over 35 °C, have been recorded. One account even mentions a summer with 43 °C, which remains exceptional but shows that heatwaves are not excluded.
Summer is also the rainiest season, especially inland, with afternoon thunderstorms. The coast receives abundant but more spread-out precipitation. On the light side, it’s the opposite of winter: in June, you approach 17 to 18 hours of daylight, with night reduced to a prolonged twilight, especially around the summer solstice.
The water temperature in the Gulf of Riga can drop to 1 °C in February-March.
Autumn: The Transition Season That Prepares for Winter
Between September and November, Latvia cycles through “Indian summer,” rain, gray skies, and the first snowflakes. Early September can still be mild, even warm, with beautiful sunny days, but the temperature drop is rapid. The autumn average is around 9-10 °C, with a value often cited around 49 °F (just under 10 °C).
Rain becomes more frequent, light decreases, the sky clouds over. October already feels cold, especially in the evening and morning, and November often brings the first snowy episodes, sometimes as early as October. High humidity accentuates the feeling of cold: a misty, windy +5 °C in November feels much less bearable than a dry -5 °C in deep winter.
Another essential dimension of autumn: it’s a period of “mental preparation” for winter. Latvians talk about slowing down, valuing peace, soft light, and “mājīgums”—that idea of a warm cocoon reminiscent of Danish “hygge.”
Key Numerical Reference Points
To quickly visualize some climate characteristics, we can summarize as follows:
| Region / City | Winter (February, avg. temp.) | Summer (Jul-Aug, avg. high) | Approx. annual sunshine | Notable features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| West coast (Liepāja) | ~ -1 °C | 17.5–18 °C | ~ 2,000 h | Milder, very windy, rainy autumns |
| Riga (Gulf of Riga) | ~ -2.5 °C | ~ 23 °C | ~ 1,900 h | Gray winters, pleasant summer, cold sea, frequent wind |
| East (Gulbene, Rēzekne) | Up to -5 °C avg. | ~ 23.5 °C | ~ 1,800 h | Harsher winters, more pronounced variations |
Understanding these basics allows you to anticipate your gear, travel habits, heating budget, and even how you organize your leisure time.
Dressing “Latvian Style”: The Layering Strategy
The big rule for surviving the Latvian winter is nothing fancy: it’s layering. Locals and experts alike insist on this simple and terribly effective principle. The idea is not to own a “miracle” coat that handles everything, but to combine several layers that you adjust according to temperature, activity, and wind.
A common guideline: around -15 °C, most people wear 3 to 4 layers, and you roughly add one extra layer for every 5 to 10 degrees below that, depending on your cold tolerance.
The Base Layer: Managing Moisture, Not Just Warmth
In a cold, humid climate, the worst mistake is to insulate with cotton. T-shirts, leggings, or socks made of cotton trap perspiration moisture, cool the skin, and make the cold much more aggressive. The base layer must instead wick away moisture to keep the body dry.
Recommended materials are wool (merino, for example) and technical synthetic fibers. For a Latvian winter, the ideal set includes:
– a long-sleeved technical top or fine wool top,
– thermal leggings or long johns under pants,
– underwear that does not retain water.
This first layer doesn’t need to be thick, but effective for moisture regulation. It is often kept on all day, even in poorly heated interiors.
The Middle Layer: Trapping Heat
Above that come the insulating layers: sweaters, vests, thick shirts. Wool reigns supreme here, whether hand-knitted or from recycled army sweaters, prized for their durability. Modern fleeces also work well, as long as they remain breathable.
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– a wool or fleece sweater,
– possibly a flannel shirt,
– a warm vest if you know you’ll be outside for a long time.
For the legs, some wear ski pants or lined winter pants over jeans or regular trousers. Jeans alone are popular but insufficient: they must be part of a layering system.
The Outer Layer: Blocking Wind, Snow, and Rain
The best thermal insulation is useless if wind gets in or melting snow soaks through the fabric. The outermost layer must therefore be windproof and as waterproof as possible, while allowing water vapor to escape.
The ideal coat for a Latvian winter looks like: a warm, waterproof model that can handle sub-zero temperatures and snow. It is often made of insulating materials like wool or synthetics and may have a hood for extra wind protection. Dark colors are preferred because they absorb more solar heat. Long coats are also popular as they offer better cold protection.
– a thick parka or down jacket, insulated, with hood,
– a water-repellent or waterproof outer fabric,
– a cut long enough to cover the hips,
– enough space inside to add layers without feeling compressed.
Brands specializing in Nordic or alpine outdoor clothing, or some polar equipment, are well-suited, but it’s not essential to buy high-end products if the basic principle (insulation + windproof + waterproof) is respected.
Protecting Extremities: Head, Hands, Feet
In the Latvian cold, extremities are the weak point. You lose a lot of heat through your head, and poorly protected hands or feet can ruin an entire day.
For the head, it’s recommended to wear lined beanies (sometimes with insulators like Thinsulate) or local knitted hats, often decorated with traditional patterns and very effective. In winter, a simple hood is not enough; the combination of beanie + hood becomes necessary to protect against wind, especially along the Daugava or the Gulf of Riga.
For the neck, scarves, snoods, and neck warmers are essential. Scarves inspired by Latvian patterns, such as the so-called “lāču” models, provide both warmth and cultural integration.
For hands, the rule is simple: in extreme cold, mittens retain heat better than gloves because fingers stay together and warm each other. Again, the layering idea applies: a thin inner glove in wool or synthetic, then a large insulated mitten in wool, lined leather, or technical material.
Feet require special attention. A common system mentioned by locals:
– a first pair of thin socks (wool or synthetic, never cotton),
– a pair of thick wool socks over them, often hand-knitted,
– possibly knitted toe warmers, very popular in the countryside.
To be effective, winter boots must have three essential features: good insulation (with a wool or synthetic lining), waterproofing, and a sole with deep treads for traction. It’s recommended to buy them one size larger than usual. This extra space allows air to circulate and prevents compressing the socks, which maintains good blood circulation. For optimal thermal comfort, opt for models with insoles made of wool felt or pure wool, which provide very effective extra insulation.
In case of frequent black ice, some add small crampons or spikes under their shoes. This may seem extreme, but it often makes the difference between a simple walk and a painful fall on a frozen sidewalk.
Children’s Clothing: Warm but Mobile
For expats with children, the rule is the same: layer up. A child should be able to run, climb, fall in the snow, and get back up without looking like a Michelin Man unable to move. The typical stack:
– a thermal T-shirt or top,
– a light sweater or fleece,
– a snowsuit over it,
– hat, scarf, mittens mandatory.
Outdoor time is adjusted based on signs of cold: red nose, runny nose, numb hands. Kids adapt quickly, but don’t underestimate the combined effect of wind and humidity.
A Simplified Overview of Gear by Season
| Season | Upper Body | Lower Body | Key Accessories |
|---|---|---|---|
| Winter | Wool/synthetic base + sweater + insulated parka | Thermal leggings + lined pants | Hat, scarf, mittens, insulated boots |
| Spring | Light base + sweater or softshell | Pants + possibly leggings | Windbreaker, waterproof shoes |
| Summer | T-shirt + light or waterproof jacket | Light pants or jeans | Rain jacket, closed shoes |
| Autumn | Base + sweater + mid-season coat | Pants + sometimes thin leggings | Scarf, light hat, waterproof boots |
One important detail: Latvians place importance on changing clothes indoors. In schools or cafeterias, it’s frowned upon to keep coats and big boots on. Cloakrooms, slippers, and indoor clothes are part of daily life – a practical detail that newcomers eventually adopt.
Protecting Your Health: Vitamin D, Skin, Mood, and Safety
The Latvian climate impacts health in several ways: lack of light, dry or damp cold, heated indoor air, slippery surfaces… Adapting also means taking care of yourself more proactively than in a milder climate.
The Crucial Issue of Vitamin D and Mood
Between November and February, days are short, and the sun makes rare appearances. This light shortage often comes with a drop in vitamin D. For expats, this translates into repeated infections, persistent fatigue, and even what many describe as “seasonal blues.”
Local doctors frequently recommend vitamin D supplementation during winter. However, it’s best to consult a general practitioner before starting, to adjust doses and check if a deficiency is actually present. Some also choose to take a short trip to a sunnier region during winter, a way to both replenish vitamin D reserves and take a mental break.
Beyond vitamin D alone, symptoms of actual Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) can overlap: drowsiness, increased appetite, weight gain, social withdrawal, lack of motivation… In Nordic regions, this phenomenon is documented, though the scientific community still debates its exact extent. Solutions mentioned range from light therapy (10,000 lux lamps used each morning) to cognitive behavioral therapy, along with lifestyle adjustments: daily outdoor time during daylight, regular physical activity, stable sleep routine, nutrient-rich diet.
Skin, Lips, Eyes: Effects of Dry Cold
The Latvian cold, combined with indoor heating, quickly dries out skin and mucous membranes. Without precautions, hands, face, and feet become rough, irritated, sometimes painful.
Common recommendations include:
– regular hydration of hands and feet with thick creams,
– application of rich lip balms, preferably with SPF for very bright days, as snow reflects sunlight,
– wearing sunglasses even in winter, to protect against glare on snow or ice.
Expats from milder countries are often surprised by the aggressiveness of the cold wind on the face. Barrier creams, scarves pulled up to the nose, and snug hoods quickly become reflexes.
Staying Active to Counter Winter Inertia
The cold easily invites you to hole up at home. Yet, to preserve both physical fitness and mental health, it’s crucial to maintain at least some activity. In Latvia, many solutions exist:
– walk daily, even in cold weather, with proper gear,
– frequent gyms,
– try winter sports (downhill skiing at small local stations, cross-country skiing, ice skating) or hikes on snowy trails,
– use large parks and nearby forests for short outings.
Isolation worsens winter melancholy. To better endure the long gray months, it’s essential to build a circle of friends, both Latvian and expat. Meetings can happen in various settings: cafes, parties, language classes, or sports and hobby clubs.
Adapting Your Home: Light, Warmth, and “Mājīgums”
Latvians respond to outdoor grayness by making their interiors warm and welcoming. The concept of “mājīgums” refers to a blend of comfort, soft light, and serenity. For an expat, creating this cocoon is a real adaptation strategy.
This involves:
– warm light bulbs, sometimes paired with accent lighting,
– candles (or LED candles if you’re wary of fire),
– throws, rugs, and cozy textiles,
– houseplants to compensate for the lack of visible nature in the city,
– good insulation and controlled heating.
In some houses, insulation is particularly well done (for example, using sheep’s wool), and heating systems combine wood stoves, fireplaces, and hot water circuits circulating through walls. For an expat, asking about the type of heating and insulation quality before renting a home is crucial, as a significant part of the winter budget goes to heating.
Safety: Black Ice, Ice, and Legal Obligations
Adapting your lifestyle to the climate also means incorporating a safety component. One of the most underestimated dangers is black ice, especially black ice on sidewalks. Sidewalks, roads, and stairs then become traps for pedestrians and motorists alike.
To walk on ice, adopt a cautious gait with small steps and a low center of gravity, while wearing shoes with grooved soles or crampons. Simultaneously watch the ground for balance and above for falling icicles.
In traffic, winter also dictates obligations: winter tires mandatory for vehicles up to 3.5 tons from December 1 to March 1, studded tires allowed from October to May, headlights on day and night. Those who plan to drive must also get familiar with driving on snow or ice: longer safety distances, gradual braking, no abrupt movements.
For expat drivers, a winter kit in the car is highly recommended: snow shovel, ice scraper, flashlight, jumper cables, warm clothes, reflective vest, and some long-lasting snacks. Keeping the tank at least half full protects the fuel system from freezing, especially for diesel engines that often require a specific “winter” fuel.
Finally, safety also involves an important local rule: from November, the law requires wearing a reflector (helkur) on clothing or bags during dark hours. It’s a small, inexpensive accessory, but mandatory, and fines can be issued if you’re not visible.
Living with the Seasons: Leisure, Food, and Culture
Adapting to the Latvian climate doesn’t just mean “surviving winter.” It also means entering a logic of very marked seasons, found in leisure, cuisine, festivals, and even language.
Embrace Winter Rather Than Endure It
Many expats report that their relationship with winter changed when they stopped seeing it as a period to endure. In Latvia, the cold season is also a time for specific leisure activities: sledding in parks, walks in snowy forests, downhill skiing at small resorts (like Žagarkalns, Milzkalns, or Baiļi), cross-country skiing on groomed trails, ice skating on urban rinks or, when conditions allow, on frozen lakes.
There is even a culture of winter beach walks. The seaside resort of Jūrmala is appreciated for long strolls on frozen sand under clear skies. Another typical activity: ice fishing, very common, but requiring real caution. Never walk on a frozen body of water without checking ice thickness, the duration of recent sub-zero temperatures, the absence of currents, and ideally, the presence of other fishermen.
The Jelgava International Ice Sculpture Festival turns winter into an open-air gallery. Christmas markets in Riga, illuminations in Ogre, and impromptu sledding hills in city parks illustrate how the cold season becomes a cultural and recreational highlight, far from a dreary period.
To warm up, gastronomy offers its own repertoire: thick soups, meat broths, braised sauerkraut, potato and barley stews, dark rye bread… and hot drinks. A classic winter combination is hot blackcurrant juice mixed with Riga Black Balsam, a herbal liqueur once considered a remedy. This drink warms both the body and the atmosphere during friendly gatherings.
Eating with the Seasons: An Unexpected Ally for Climate Adaptation
Latvian cuisine is deeply seasonal. You don’t eat the same way in February as in July, and it’s precisely this dietary adaptation that helps you follow the rhythm of the climate.
In spring, as the body emerges from winter, meals become lighter. People consume more fresh herbs and young shoots: sorrel soup enriched with dill and hard-boiled eggs, nettle soup or sautéed nettles, slices of rye bread topped with radishes and green onions. It’s also the season for birch sap (bērzu sula), a naturally sweet drink tapped directly from the tree, and rhubarb used in pies and compotes.
Summer is the peak of garden fruits and vegetables: strawberries, currants, raspberries, blueberries, cucumbers, tomatoes, peas… Meals are fresher: cold soups like aukstā zupa made with beets and kefir, cucumber and tomato salads with sour cream, new potatoes accompanying fish or grilled items.
Autumn marks the mushroom season (chanterelles and many others), used in creamy sauces or preserved, and root vegetables (carrots, parsnips, beets). People forage, store, and process: kitchens become true canning workshops. Cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, and fruits are fermented, salted, smoked. These reserves form the core of winter eating.
In winter, the plate adapts to the harshness of the climate: hearty dishes based on potatoes, grains, pork, fermented cabbage, dried peas. Fermented and smoked foods provide not only nutrients but also support for the digestive and immune systems, useful when the body is under strain. Eating “like Latvians” by following this seasonal logic also means adopting a rhythm aligned with climatic constraints.
Ritualizing the Cold Season: Light, Festivities, and Traditions
Latvian culture is built around solar cycles. Two major poles structure the year: the summer solstice (Līgo and Jāņi) and the winter solstice (Ziemassvētki). These celebrations are not only religious or folkloric: they are also collective mechanisms for adapting to the climate.
Around the winter solstice, various traditions like lights, the log that is dragged and then burned, and straw ornaments (puzuri) meant to trap negative energies, give meaning to this dark period. Christmas markets, vigils, and songs provide moments of conviviality that break the monotony of long nights.
For an expat, participating in these rituals – even as a simple observer at first – is a way to transform the relationship with winter. Learning a few vocabulary words related to this atmosphere (“svece” for candle, “mājīgums” for coziness, “silta tēja” for hot tea) helps enter the language of the seasons as it is lived locally.
Health Through Heat and Cold: Sauna and Ice Baths
Another way to use the climate to your advantage is to adopt certain local wellness practices. The Latvian sauna, or pirts, is not just a hot cabin: it’s a ritual where intense heat (up to 90 °C) alternates with extreme cold, often in the form of plunges into a lake, river, or hole cut in the ice.
This hot-cold alternation is seen as a way to boost circulation, stimulate the immune system, and “cleanse” the body. It certainly requires some courage – especially the first time in icy water – but many expats later find it a powerful antidote to the weight of winter. Regular ice bath enthusiasts are sometimes called “seals,” and claim a noticeable improvement in their overall well-being.
Adapting Your Daily Life and Travel to the Climate
Adapting to the local climate is not just about dressing differently: it’s also about redefining how you travel, plan your shopping, organize your vacations, or adjust your schedule.
Mobility and Weather: An Equation to Integrate
The road network is generally well-maintained, especially around major cities. In winter, main roads are regularly plowed, salted, or even treated with technical salt mixtures. Despite these efforts, conditions can remain treacherous: packed snow, ice patches, freezing fog.
For expats who drive, caution is therefore essential: check forecasts from the national road authority, prefer daytime trips, avoid sudden lane changes, and slow down systematically when approaching bridges, areas near the sea or rivers, where ice forms more quickly.
Without a personal car, public transport in Riga operates year-round. Affordable monthly passes and apps like MOBILLY make it easy to buy tickets for trams, buses, and trolleybuses. Ride-hailing and car-sharing services (Bolt, Carguru, Citybee) offer complementary alternatives. It’s advisable to anticipate longer travel times in winter and allow a safety margin for your trips.
Preparing Your Home for Winter
The heating bill in Latvia can represent a significant portion of the budget between November and March. Before signing a lease, it’s useful to inquire:
– about the type of heating (centralized, gas, electric, wood stove),
– about the level of insulation (double or triple-glazed windows, insulated walls),
– about historical heating and hot water bills.
In an apartment, utility costs for an 85 m² can reach several hundred euros per month in winter, when hot water and electricity are added. Some expats therefore invest in complementary solutions: thick curtains, window seals, rugs, even small space heaters for specific rooms.
Stockpiling firewood and food supplies, a common practice in rural areas, is a sensible measure to prepare for outages, snowstorms, or transport problems. It’s recommended to store enough to last several days.
Organizing Your Leisure and Holidays Around the Climate
To get the most out of Latvia, it can be helpful to align certain activities with the seasons:
– plan major nature explorations, hikes, and seaside weekends in summer,
– schedule urban escapes, museum visits, opera, or cinema outings during the darkest periods,
– take advantage of spring or autumn long weekends and holidays for short trips out of the city, when the forests change color,
– plan a “sun” trip in the heart of winter if you feel your mood really dipping.
The Latvian calendar features many public holidays and seasonal festivals that enable precisely these breathers. Knowing how to spot them and using them as anchors rather than moments of withdrawal helps transform your perception of the climate.
Conclusion: From Thermal Shock to Seasonal Anchoring
Expatriating to Latvia inevitably means confronting a demanding climate, especially for those coming from milder regions. The long, dark and sometimes extreme winters challenge both body and mind. Humidity, snow, black ice, cold sea, coastal winds are part of daily life.
Latvia’s harsh climate, with its luminous summers, dense forests, frozen seas, and snowy winters, shapes a unique backdrop. Its inhabitants have developed a culture of quiet resilience, based on appropriate clothing, warm interiors, robust seasonal cuisine, and rituals centered on light. Special attention is paid to safety details to live in harmony with these conditions.
For an expat, the key is not to “act as if nothing is different,” but to accept changing your mindset: learn to dress in layers, anticipate the effects of light on your mood, rethink your relationship with the seasons, integrate weather into your daily logistics, and allow yourself to find pleasure in activities you never imagined doing.
With this shift in perspective, the Latvian climate gradually ceases to be an enemy. It becomes a framework, sometimes harsh, but rich, around which you can build a fulfilling expat life, grounded and surprisingly in harmony with the rhythm of the seasons.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
