Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Expatriating to Togo means entering a highly structured, warm, and deeply communal social universe. For a newcomer, the culture shock isn’t just about climate or economy, but above all about cultural codes: how to greet, relationship to time, place of family, role of religion, status of women, body language, workplace hierarchy, etc. Understanding these differences isn’t a luxury—it’s a condition for integrating, avoiding misunderstandings, and, along the way, fully enjoying local life.
Understanding the General Cultural Framework
Togolese society rests on a few pillars that are very visible to an expat: the importance of family, the patriarchal nature of social organization, the strength of religious traditions (Christianity, Islam, but also animism and Vodun), and a highly communal daily life.
Good to know:
Family often includes close relatives, neighbors, or clan members, with an average household size of eight people. Nearly a third of male-headed households exceed ten members, highlighting the importance of mutual aid and networks.
The country is also very patriarchal. Historically, men have held family authority, control over property and land, while women have shouldered domestic chores (water, firewood, cooking, laundry, child rearing) and began learning these tasks from childhood, around age seven. Recent legal reforms have strengthened women’s rights, but in everyday practice, patriarchal norms remain strong: women are still largely perceived as wives and mothers first, and the division of roles in the household reflects this.
Example:
In Togo, Christianity and Islam coexist with traditional beliefs like Vodun and animism. These spiritualities influence social life, festivals, rites of passage, as well as perceptions of health, illness, and misfortune.
Finally, society operates in a highly communal mode. People live in family compounds, share meals from common dishes, greet each other at length, and regularly borrow money among close acquaintances to “get by” day to day. This dense social fabric is a tremendous resource, but it also means the expat must be relationally available—something not to be underestimated.
The Relationship with Time: Between Official Punctuality and “African Time”
For many Europeans or North Americans, the first surprise comes from the relationship with time. Officially, in the professional world, punctuality is valued. In practice, daily organization remains very flexible.
Several realities coexist. In structured companies, government offices, or job interviews, arriving on time is seen as a sign of respect. Standard working hours are typically from 8 a.m. to noon, then from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., with a real break between noon and 2 p.m. Here, it’s best to respect the schedule, even if meetings often start a few minutes—sometimes more—late.
In many other situations, what is often called “African time” prevails. A meeting scheduled for 10 a.m. can turn into a general arrival between 11 a.m. and noon, without any drama. Many Togolese themselves criticize this laxness as a “scourge” that hurts productivity, to the point that awareness campaigns against time-related nonchalance have been conducted in some neighboring countries. But in daily life, the idea that a human interaction deserves more time than a schedule remains deeply ingrained.
Observation on cultural habits in Togo
For an expat, this sometimes creates inner tension. The key is to distinguish contexts: strictly observe time for formal appointments (interviews, meetings with authorities, administrative procedures) while accepting a certain elasticity for invitations, family celebrations, and social events. The common mistake is to take offense or judge the society as “disorganized,” whereas from the local perspective, prioritizing the continuity of a conversation or exchange can be seen as more important than an abstract schedule.
Comparative Table: Visual Duality
This table highlights the two contrasting aspects of a concept, allowing for a clear and concise comparison.
Description of the first aspect of the duality, with its main characteristics and influence.
Description of the second aspect of the duality, highlighting its specificities and complementary role.
| Context | Main Local Expectation | What a “Monochronic” Expat Expects |
|---|---|---|
| Business meeting | Arrive on time, accept late start | Strict start at planned time |
| Personal appointment | Significant flexibility | Respect the time slot |
| Party, ceremony, celebration | Staggered arrivals, long duration | Invitation with clearly defined start/end |
| Official procedures | Punctuality better viewed, long processing times | Speed and sequence of steps |
Accepting that Togolese culture is largely “polychronic”—multiple simultaneous activities, priority given to relationships over schedules—helps reduce frustration and approach this difference with humor rather than irritation.
In Togo, greeting is not a formality but a true social ritual. Failing to respect it is perhaps the most detrimental cultural mistake a newcomer can make.
You don’t walk past someone without looking at them and saying at least “Good morning” or “Good evening.” In neighborhoods, villages, and markets, Togolese place great importance on these exchanges of a few sentences that confirm the existence of a relationship. A simple hand gesture without a word can be perceived as cold, even rude.
Good to know:
In local culture, greetings are extended with a series of questions (family, work, weekend…). Brief and positive answers are expected; the goal is not to inform but to show mutual regard.
The languages used vary by region. French remains the official language and the safest bet for an expat, but in the south you’ll often hear greetings in Ewe or Mina, in the north in Kabiye or other Gur languages. Saying “Ewe-wɔ” in the early morning in Ewe country, or “Afɔ-dzo” in Kabiye areas, demonstrates strong respect for the local culture.
Good to know:
The handshake is the dominant greeting form, firm but not excessive, exclusively with the right hand. To show respect to an older or higher-ranking person, one slightly bows the upper body, places the left hand on the right forearm, and uses terms like Papa, Mama, Monsieur, or Madame.
In families and rural areas, it’s common for children to call all adults in the compound “Uncle,” “Aunt,” “Tonton,” “Tata.” A married woman is often referred to by her husband’s or first child’s name: “Mama Hadassah,” “Madame Ryan,” etc. The idea of an identity tied to parenthood and marriage is clearly visible in these usages.
For an expat, taking the time for these greetings, even if it seems to slow down the day, is crucial. Relationships come first: that’s the key to trust, both in the neighborhood and at the office.
Body, Gestures, and Modesty: What Non-Verbal Communication Says About You
In Togo, body language is loaded with meaning. Some gestures that are harmless in Europe can surprise, while others are very common yet would astonish an uninformed visitor.
The first rule is the right hand. You eat with your right hand when not using utensils; you give and receive objects or gifts with this hand. The left hand, considered “unclean,” is not extended for a greeting or to take food from a shared dish. In a shared meal, you take food directly in front of you without “crossing” the dish in front of another diner.
Tip:
In Japan, married or romantic couples avoid kissing or touching in public, as these gestures are considered private and inappropriate. However, it is common to see two adult men walking hand in hand or with an arm around the shoulder, which simply expresses camaraderie and friendship, with no romantic connotation.
Codes of dress modesty are also very present. Women very often wear long skirts or dresses that cover the knees, especially in rural areas and during religious events. Married women frequently cover their heads. Both men and women place great importance on appearance: being “well-dressed” doesn’t mean wearing expensive clothes, but clean, neat, well-ironed ones. An expat with unkempt hair, wearing flip-flops and short shorts, can easily give an impression of disrespect, even unintentionally.
Attention:
An aesthetic sense is evident in traditional styles (loincloths, matching outfits, families in the same fabric), while in the city, young people blend these codes with Western influences while still respecting formal decency.
Finally, the invasion of intimate space, as conceived in Europe, is less marked here. People are more tolerant of crowding, noise, and movement. Family compounds are lively from morning to night, and absolute silence or prolonged solitude can seem strange to neighbors. This must be accepted as part of the local way of life.
The Togolese Table: Eating is Sharing
The way of eating in Togo sums up several fundamental traits of the culture: the communal dimension, the relationship to the body, hierarchy, and generosity.
In most households, meals are prepared by women, often over wood or charcoal fires, in pots that blacken with use. The main dishes are starches—corn paste (pâté, akume), cassava or yam fufu, rice—accompanied by spicy sauces based on vegetables, palm oil, dried fish, meat, or chicken when the budget allows. In the local imagination, a meal without meat is not really a meal, and if you haven’t eaten paste, you’re considered not to have eaten at all.
Good to know:
Meals are shared from a common dish, often separated by gender. You eat with your right hand after washing your hands. Inquiring about ingredients or sniffing the food is considered an insult to the cook.
The relationship to satiety is also codified: a slight burp at the end of the meal is interpreted as a sign of polite satisfaction. Waste and abundant leftovers, on the other hand, are frowned upon, especially for meat, whose marrow is willingly sucked after breaking the bones. The idea of not wasting anything prevails.
Tip:
In Togo, flatly refusing what the host offers to drink or eat is perceived as a rejection of the relationship. Even without much appetite, it is customary to accept a small portion, taste the dish, and thank warmly.
Communal, the meal is also a time of intense sociability. People talk, laugh, comment on neighborhood news, family events, and projects, often long after finishing eating. The hurried European who wolfs down their plate to get back to work risks missing this dimension, which is essential for “becoming part of the landscape.”
A summary table helps anticipate table etiquette codes:
| Aspect | Common Practice in Togo | What Might Surprise an Expat |
|---|---|---|
| Service | Shared dish, host serves, women cook | Sharing the dish, separation of men/women |
| Way of eating | Right hand, piece by piece, few utensils | Prohibition of the left hand |
| Guest attitude | Accept, even a little, don’t sniff or dissect in advance | Flat refusal or “smelling” the dish seen as offensive |
| Signs of satisfaction | Discreet burp, plate with few leftovers | Burp as a mark of politeness |
| Place and posture | Sitting on the floor or stools, proximity | Less personal distance |
For an expat who does not eat meat or fish, or follows a strict diet, the constraint is real. It is often necessary to cook for yourself to stay true to your habits while occasionally adapting to the local setting during important invitations.
The Place of Women: Between Economic Dynamism and Social Constraints
The situation of women in Togo is a sensitive point for many expats, especially those from societies where gender equality has been institutionalized for a long time. It is essential to distinguish between legal advances, which are rather notable, and social realities, still deeply marked by patriarchy.
Economically, women are omnipresent. They represent just over half the population and form the backbone of the informal economy, which concentrates about 90% of the country’s jobs. Markets, retail trade, tontines (rotating savings), solidarity economies: women run the majority of shops, stalls, and savings associations. In agriculture, they provide more than half of the declared farm labor force. Historically, many already earned a living as traders, artisans, and street vendors, sometimes wealthier than their husbands.
10%
Fewer than 10% of women have recognized access to land due to customary land transmission through men.
The division of household tasks remains highly unequal. Women combine days at the market or in the fields with managing the household, often “without a break.” The weight of social norms is such that more than two-thirds of the population still believe that a woman’s natural place is in the home, and that in times of job scarcity, men should be prioritized for employment.
Good to know:
The Constitution and Labor Code prohibit discrimination. Reforms in 2012 and 2014 removed the requirement for marital authorization to work, choose residence, or be head of household. The new Land Code guarantees equal tenure rights. Recent reforms strengthen protection against dismissal and equal inheritance rights for widows and divorced women.
For an expat, especially if working in development, social work, or human rights, this situation sometimes produces a sense of contradiction: relatively progressive laws on one side, conservative attitudes on the other. In neighborhood life, you encounter female entrepreneurs, group leaders, and civil servants, but also polygamous marriages, very young brides in rural areas, and marginalized widows.
The challenge for a newcomer is not to judge, but to understand this gap and position oneself with tact. Supporting women-led initiatives, respecting age and rank hierarchies, avoiding a “lecturing” stance while embodying equality in daily interactions through one’s behavior, is often the most constructive path.
Languages and Communication: French, National Languages, and the Unspoken
Togo is a deeply multilingual country. Between thirty and forty local languages are spoken, in addition to French, the official language since independence. Two national languages, Ewe and Kabiye, have a special status and serve as regional lingua francas: Ewe and Mina predominate in the south, Kabiye and other Gur languages in the north.
For a French-speaking expat, this situation has an obvious advantage: French is the language of administration, schools, print media, and most formal exchanges. It allows communication with a large part of the urban population, especially those with at least some schooling. However, many Togolese feel more comfortable in their mother tongue, and on the street, in markets, and in compounds, it’s mainly local languages that dominate. Younger people constantly juggle between several languages, switching mid-sentence.
Attention:
French is perceived both as an essential tool for success in formal jobs and higher education, and as a colonial legacy—difficult to master, widening the gap between educated elites and rural populations—while local languages remain marginalized.
For you, as an expat, this means two things. First, you would do well to have solid conversational French: few Togolese speak fluent English, especially outside business circles or tourist areas, even though English has gained importance since the country joined the Commonwealth. Second, learning a few expressions in Ewe, Mina, or Kabiye, depending on your region, is a highly appreciated sign of openness that facilitates emotional integration.
Good to know:
In Togo, communication favors indirection: disagreement is rarely expressed with a blunt ‘no,’ but rather through phrases like ‘I’ll see.’ Expats should not interpret these responses as firm commitments. To preserve the valued harmony, it is advisable to adopt sustained politeness, a measured tone, and avoid public criticism or raised voices.
Finally, non-verbal communication matters enormously. Overly intense eye contact can be interpreted as a lack of respect, especially toward a much older person. Conversely, completely avoiding eye contact gives an impression of distance or unease. Here again, observation and cautious imitation of local behaviors are your best allies.
Professional Life: Hierarchy, Networks, and Negotiation
The working world in Togo remains heavily marked by hierarchy and personal relationships. This applies as much to government administration as to many local private companies.
The structure is often pyramidal: decisions flow up and down rather than being built horizontally. Superiors, by virtue of age, status, or position, command real deference. They are greeted first; you avoid contradicting them in public and do not openly put them in a difficult position. Criticism is voiced behind the scenes or through intermediaries.
Tip:
In such an environment, meetings and negotiations take time. The first appointment is often used to “get acquainted”: you exchange about family, country of origin, professional experience, before detailing the project. Concluding an agreement at this first meeting is rare. Several sessions are usually needed, punctuated by small gestures (lunch invitations, modest gifts during holidays, regular greetings) to cement trust.
Networks play a crucial role. Recommendations, mutual acquaintances, belonging to the same region or ethnic group, ties to the diaspora or professional associations—all of this carries weight. All else being equal, someone “introduced” by a respected person has a clear advantage. This dynamic sometimes fosters nepotism and favoritism, but for the foreigner unaware of it, it often leads to confusion: “Why isn’t my file moving forward?” The answer rarely lies solely in objective criteria.
Tip:
To integrate well, pay attention to formalities (greetings, attire, language), respect deadlines while following up with tact, accept response delays, and invest in human relationships through breaks, lunches, weddings, or company ceremonies to become a reliable partner.
Religion, Vodun, and Syncretism: A Complex Spiritual Landscape
For many expats, the religious dimension of Togo is fascinating, sometimes disconcerting. The country is not officially confessional, and the Constitution guarantees freedom of religion, but spiritual life is intense and very visible.
Statistics vary slightly by source, but we can note that a significant portion of the population practices so-called “traditional” religions (animism, ancestor worship, Vodun), a little over 40% identify as Christian (Catholicism, Protestantism, Evangelical churches), and a substantial minority is Muslim, especially in the center and north. Daily reality, however, is less compartmentalized than these numbers suggest.
The Vodun tradition, in particular, is very present, especially in the south. It is a complex system of beliefs where a supreme god coexists with a multitude of specialized deities (lightning, earth, sea, fertility, health, war, etc.), nature spirits, and powerful ancestors. Rituals, dances, animal sacrifices, and “fetish” objects (statues, skulls, concoctions) are used to connect with this invisible world. Certain priests and healers officiate in temples or at specialized markets where bones, dried animal heads, horns, and medicinal plants are displayed.
Good to know:
For expats, Vodun is a living tradition, not folklore, often intertwined with Christianity or Islam. It is crucial to speak about it with respect, as any mockery is perceived as a religious and identity insult.
Attending a traditional festival—for example, a Vodun festival or a mask ceremony—is a strong cultural experience, provided you scrupulously follow the rules: do not photograph without permission, do not touch dancers in trance, follow the locals’ instructions. The expat who observes curiously, asks questions humbly, but also knows when to be silent is generally well accepted.
Daily Life: Community, Money, and Security
Daily life in Togo is based on a series of practices that may seem surprising but make sense once placed in the economic and social context.
Good to know:
The majority of Togolese live on irregular income from small trade, agriculture, or informal jobs. Formal savings are low, bank cards are little used, and transactions are in cash. Loans between close acquaintances are common to finance education, healthcare, or funerals, forming an informal social protection system based on mutual aid.
For an expat, this logic can be confusing. You may sometimes be asked, directly or indirectly, to finance a family emergency, a project, or medical care. Saying yes all the time is unsustainable; saying no all the time can damage relationships. Most organizations recommend not giving money to begging children to avoid reinforcing this practice, and instead directing support toward proven local structures (associations, schools, health centers).
Attention:
In the capital and major cities, pickpocketing, bag snatching, and burglaries occur. Since expats are perceived as wealthier, it is advisable to avoid flashing valuables, keep your home well-secured, inquire about risky neighborhoods, and limit nighttime walking in isolated areas—without living in fear.
Social life, on the other hand, is very rich. Between neighborhood parties, wedding ceremonies, funerals (often very long and well-attended), cultural festivals, and religious celebrations, there are many occasions to go out. Systematically refusing invitations is interpreted as distance or even disdain. Conversely, accepting to attend a celebration, even without staying until the end, is a powerful marker of integration.
Integrating Without Losing Yourself: Posture and Boundaries
Faced with the intensity of collective life, pervasive religiosity, strongly marked gender roles, time flexibility, and the warmth of interactions, the question for an expat is not only “what should I do?” but also “how far should I adapt?“
Tip:
Immersing yourself in Togolese society involves accepting certain constraints: responding to repeated greetings about family, tolerating more noise, adapting your clothing, approaching sensitive topics like religion, politics, or recent history with caution, limiting public displays of affection with your partner, and giving time to social relationships even when in a hurry.
At the same time, it is neither necessary nor desirable to renounce your core values. You can respect local beliefs without adopting a particular ritual yourself; defend gender equality through your attitude and team management style, without humiliating more conservative interlocutors; decline advances or financial requests without breaking the bond, by calmly explaining your limits. Respect is not about accepting everything, but about expressing your positions clearly without contempt.
Good to know:
Togolese value loyalty, honesty, and keeping commitments. To be well received as an expat, it is essential to keep your word, admit mistakes, apologize, learn a few words of the local language, and dress appropriately. Conversely, neglecting politeness codes because of your background can lead to resistance or exclusion.
A Provisional Conclusion
Living in Togo is not just about changing climate or time zone; it is entering a complete system of values: respect for elders, primacy of the extended family, importance of the spiritual, centrality of greetings, requirement of good presentation, flexibility of time, strength of networks, and the ambivalent role of women between invisibility and economic engine. These differences, if ignored, become sources of misunderstanding. If understood, they turn into keys for reading that give meaning and enrich the expatriation experience.
The goal is not to master everything before leaving, but to arrive with a spirit of curiosity, patience, and humility. The rest is built through encounters, shared meals in a compound, conversations with a market neighbor, an exchange of morning greetings at the doorstep. In Togo, the time spent together is perhaps the first language to learn.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
