Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Saudi Arabia means entering a country where you are first welcomed with a cup of coffee and a handful of dates… followed by an immense platter of rice and meat placed in the center of the rug. For an expatriate, understanding this cuisine, its codes, and its link to the culture is one of the best ways to integrate.
This guide provides a practical overview of Saudi cuisine, covering its principles, iconic dishes, markets, coffee traditions, and seasonality. It also addresses the reality of ‘all halal’. The goal is to provide essential reference points to feel comfortable, order without stress, and fully enjoy the culinary experience.
Understanding Saudi Cuisine: Simplicity, Hospitality, and Halal
Saudi cuisine is first and foremost the expression of a way of life. It is born from the desert and the oases, from merchant caravans and pilgrimages, from the Muslim faith and Bedouin heritage. The recipes remain generally simple – often two to four main ingredients – but the flavors are rich, carried by spices and slow cooking.
The traditional diet of Saudi Arabia is based on historical local products like wheat, barley, dates, ghee, meats of lamb, camel, goat, and chicken, as well as fish on the coasts and seasonal vegetables. This base is enriched by a mix of iconic spices, inherited from ancient trade routes with India, Persia, and the Mediterranean, including cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, cloves, saffron, dried black lemons, bay leaves, and nutmeg.
In daily life, the focus is not on technical sophistication, but on the quality of the product and sharing. The meal is very often communal, served on large platters where everyone helps themselves with the right hand. Many iconic dishes – Kabsa, Mandi, Saleeg, Jareesh – are designed to feed an extended family, or even an entire village during a celebration.
In Saudi Arabia, halal is a legal requirement, not just a religious one. All ingredients, animal slaughter, additives, and manufacturing processes are strictly regulated. Virtually all food served is halal by default (no pork, no alcohol, meat slaughtered according to Islamic rites). The ‘halal’ label on a product or a storefront is controlled by the Saudi Food and Drug Authority (SFDA) and the Saudi Halal Center, and is not merely a marketing claim.
To keep the essentials in mind, we can summarize the fundamentals of Saudi culinary culture in a concise table.
| Dimension | What an Expatriate Should Remember |
|---|---|
| Key Ingredients | Rice, wheat, dates, ghee, lamb, chicken, milk, yogurt, seasonal vegetables, fish on the coasts |
| Major Spices | Cardamom, saffron, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, cloves, dried black lemon (loomi) |
| Cooking Style | Family-style dishes, generous portions, slow cooking, few ingredients but very aromatic |
| Meal Culture | Sharing, central platter, right hand, strong dimension of hospitality |
| Religion & Food | 100% halal: pork prohibited, alcohol prohibited, ritual slaughter mandatory |
| Role of Cuisine | Expression of generosity, tradition, religious festivals (Ramadan, Eid, Hajj) |
Within this framework, eating is never a simple functional act: sharing a Kabsa or having coffee with dates is part of the Saudi way of building connections.
Eating Well in a Local Context: Codes, Gestures, and Faux Pas to Avoid
Before diving into the dishes, it’s useful to correctly read the “scene” around the table. Table culture in Saudi Arabia is highly codified, but much of it boils down to two principles: respect and modesty.
In a traditional setting, guests sometimes sit on rugs, around a cloth laid on the floor (sufrah) where an immense platter of rice and meat is placed. In major cities like Riyadh or Jeddah, most restaurants serve at tables, but many maintain separate sections: family section (mixed), and a section for single men. Even in a trendy burger joint, a certain restraint is expected: clothing covering shoulders and knees, no public displays of affection.
Eating with the right hand is the norm for shared dishes, avoiding passing the left hand over the food. It is appropriate to wait for the host or the eldest person to begin. Refusing dishes, leaving one’s plate full, or criticizing them is considered disrespectful to the host’s generosity, according to the implicit adage “the guest is the guest of God.”
In a more contemporary setting – fine dining restaurants, designer cafés – utensils are omnipresent, the bill can resemble that of a European capital, but these markers of respect continue to matter. Punctuality for an invitation, warmly thanking the host, and saying a few words of appreciation about the meal (“Allah y3atik el 3afya” – May God give you health) are noticed.
In a professional context, the meal is a crucial relational tool. A business lunch or dinner serves to assess the quality of the connection and the relevance of a project. For an expatriate guest, it is expected to adopt formal attire, avoid sensitive topics (politics, religion), and favor appreciated conversation themes like family, health, or mutual success. Gestures like eating Kabsa comfortably with the right hand or tasting a very sweet dessert are often perceived as signs of openness and adaptation.
The Kingdom on a Plate: Regions, Specialties, and Must-Try Dishes
The creation, in 2024, of an official list of regional dishes for the 13 provinces by the Culinary Arts Commission is not trivial. It is a way of asserting that Saudi cuisine is not monolithic: between the central Najd, the mountains of Asir, the Red Sea coast, and the oases of the East, the plates tell different stories.
Rice and Meat: The Grand Repertoire of Celebration Dishes
For many expatriates, the discovery begins with a plate of rice crowned with a whole chicken or a leg of lamb.
Kabsa, often presented as the national dish, is long-grain basmati rice cooked in a spiced broth (cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, dried black lemon, bay leaf) with chicken, lamb, beef, or even camel. The meat is stewed in the broth, then the rice is cooked in that same juice, resulting in a complete, fragrant dish, garnished with raisins, almonds, or pine nuts. During major occasions – weddings, Eid – it is served on huge platters placed on the floor, with several diners eating together.
Mandi, of Yemeni inspiration, is based on the same rice + meat duo, but the cooking method is different: the meat (often lamb) is cooked in an underground pit oven, above the rice. The smoke infuses the grains, giving a slightly smoky flavor. In Riyadh as in Jeddah, specialized restaurants – often called “Mandi House” or “Hadramout” – have made it their menu centerpiece.
Saleeg is an emblematic dish from the Mecca region. It is white rice cooked for a long time in a mixture of broth and milk until it reaches a creamy texture, similar to a risotto. It is traditionally served with roasted chicken or meat pieces. It is a dish particularly enjoyed in the evening, often accompanied by a light soup and a salad.
In the East, Hassawi Rice Kabsa uses a short red rice typical of Al-Ahsa, with a more pronounced flavor, cultivated in the region’s oases. Bukhari rice, meanwhile, has established itself across the country, with its rice garnished with chickpeas, carrots, caramelized onions, and meat.
To get a quick overview of this rice landscape, just look at the regional specialties designated as iconic.
| Region / Province | Iconic Rice or Grain Dish |
|---|---|
| Riyadh (Najd) | Margaouq (wheat pasta in a meat-vegetable broth) |
| Makkah (Hijaz) | Saleeg (rice with milk and broth, with meat) |
| Al-Madinah | Madini Rice (steamed white rice, meat in red sauce) |
| Eastern Province | Hassawi Rice Kabsa (kabsa with Al-Ahsa red rice) |
| Qassim | Kleja (pastry), Jareesh very present as a grain dish |
| Hail | Keubaibat Hail (stuffed vine leaves) |
| Tabuk | Sayadiah (brown rice with onions, served with fish) |
| Jazan | Maghsh (meat in a stone pot) |
| Aseer | Haneeth (pit-cooked lamb, served on rice) |
For an expatriate, one of the pleasures is tasting these regional variations: a Kabsa in Riyadh, a Saleeg in a Hijaz restaurant, a Sayadiah in the northwest by the sea.
Wheat and Bread Dishes: The Other Nutritional Pillar
If rice dominates celebrations, wheat and barley play a central role in daily life, especially in the central and southern parts of the country. “Porridge” or “wheat stew” type dishes are hearty, very popular in winter and during Ramadan.
Number of regions studied in the analysis of dietary habits in Saudi Arabia, including Hail, Jazan, Al-Ahsa, Jeddah, and Riyadh.
Harees follows a similar logic, with wheat (or bulgur) and meat reduced to a very fine puree, seasoned with ghee, cinnamon, and black pepper. It is an emblematic dish of Ramadan evenings: found on family tables as well as in hotel buffets.
Matazeez and Margoog, typical of Najd, mix whole wheat dough and a stew of vegetables and meat: the dough is cut into small discs or strips and cooked directly in a broth of tomatoes, squash, eggplant, zucchini. The whole forms a rustic, very filling dish, well illustrating the sparing but clever use of vegetables in a semi-desert environment.
Qursan consists of large, very thin bread sheets that are then torn and dipped into a meat and vegetable broth. You eat the soup along with the softened bread, in a perfect economy of means.
Alongside these preparations, everyday bread – classic khubz, tamees baked in a tandoor oven, mifa bread or muqana bread on a hot stone – accompanies most meals, especially breakfast and dinner.
Mountains, Desert, Sea: When Geography Enters the Plate
The country’s geographic diversity is reflected in the available ingredients.
On the coasts of the Red Sea and the Gulf, fish holds an important place. Sayadiah, a dish from Tabuk, involves sautéing rice with caramelized onions until it turns brown, before adding fish and spices. In the East, recipes with dried shrimp are found, like Aish al-Jazar, where carrots are cooked with these preserved seafood.
Saudi Coastal Cuisines
In the mountainous south, notably in Asir and Jazan, whole grains, honey, and local coffee mark the table. Areekah, for example, is a kind of thick wheat pancake, crushed and mixed with ghee and honey, topped with dates. It is as much a dessert as a main dish. Haneeth, lamb cooked in pits lined with herbs (like markh), yields extremely tender meat, served on rice.
Oasis regions like Al-Ahsa are distinguished by their dates and their cereals. Hassawi (red rice), lentil dishes like Maadous, or sweets based on local flour and dates (Bukayla in the far north, for example) illustrate this cuisine rooted in irrigated agriculture.
For an expatriate, visiting these regions allows one to move beyond the idea of a uniform Saudi cuisine: a weekend in Abha in the south does not have the same gustatory signature as a stay in Riyadh or Dammam.
Street Food, Souqs, and Markets: The Sidewalk Side of Gastronomy
Beyond the grand dishes served at home or in restaurants, Saudi Arabia has a real culture of snacking and street food, especially during Ramadan and in old quarters.
In the souqs – those traditional markets with winding alleys – people often eat on the go: crispy sambousas stuffed with meat or cheese, hot falafel sandwiches, kebab skewers, shawarma sliced vertically. Desserts like luqaimat, small fried dough balls drizzled with date syrup or honey, are bought from ephemeral stalls particularly active in the evening.
This traditional market in Abha is an example where buying local products (spices, honey, dates, traditional clothing) combines with tasting. You find homemade preparations based on ghee, mountain honey, aromatic plants, and dates, often produced by local women. Its authentic atmosphere, less touristy than Gulf markets, allows expatriates to practice gentle bargaining and engage in conversation about the origin of products or their culinary use.
In major cities, street food has also taken a more urban turn. Riyadh is home to dozens of small specialized spots: foul (stewed fava beans) stalls in the early morning, liver sandwich stands (grilled camel or lamb liver with vegetables), legendary falafel shops, shawarma outlets that have become true institutions. In Jeddah, the old Al-Balad district, a UNESCO World Heritage site, hosts fresh fruit juice vendors, mutabbaq (savory or sweet) stalls, and small eateries serving a fish platter based on the day’s catch.
Prices generally remain affordable compared to European standards, as can be seen by looking at some usual price benchmarks.
| Street Food / Dessert Item | Common Price Range (SAR) |
|---|---|
| Shawarma (sandwich) | 8 – 12 |
| Shawarma saj | 10 – 15 |
| Falafel (one sandwich) | 7 – 10 |
| Sambousa (piece) | 2 – 3 |
| Mutabbaq (individual portion) | 12 – 15 |
| Luqaimat (portion) | 10 – 15 |
| Konafa (piece) | 25 – 35 |
| Umm Ali (individual dessert) | 20 – 30 |
| Baklava (per kilo) | 80 – 120 |
| Ma’amoul (per kilo) | 50 – 70 |
In a market or popular stall, paying in cash makes things easier, although bank cards are increasingly accepted. Carrying a small bottle of hand sanitizer and observing the cleanliness of the stand are useful reflexes. If you have dietary restrictions (allergies, vegetarianism), do not hesitate to ask about the ingredients, even if it means showing the question translated into Arabic on your phone.
Experiencing Saudi Coffee: A Ritual More Than a Drink
No culinary guide on Saudi Arabia would be complete without a chapter on coffee, or rather qahwa. Here, coffee is not a quick “shot” to stay awake: it is a ceremony that structures hospitality, marks the opening of a meeting, seals an agreement, or softens a conflict.
Saudi coffee is very different from an Italian espresso. The arabica beans, sometimes grown in the mountains of Jazan, Al Baha, or Abha (Khawlani variety), are lightly roasted, almost blonde. They are then simmered for a long time with water and especially cardamom, sometimes complemented with saffron, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, or a few drops of rose water. The result is a pale, golden-yellow drink, lightly caffeinated, very fragrant, and unsweetened.
Traditionally prepared in a dallah coffee pot, Arabic coffee is served in small handleless cups called finjan. The server, often the youngest man present, stands to serve the seated guests, starting with the eldest or most honored person. The cup is never filled to the brim (only one-third to half full), allowing for multiple servings and keeping the coffee hot. Refusing a cup without a clear reason can be perceived as disrespectful. To indicate you do not wish to be served more, simply return the cup while making a slight shaking motion with the hand.
Dates always accompany this ritual. They soften the coffee’s bitterness and, in religious imagery, recall the Prophet’s gesture. Varieties like Sukkari (very sweet, melting), Ajwa (black, dense, with strong symbolic value), Medjool (large, caramelized), or Sagai are frequently offered. They are sometimes served stuffed with nuts, almonds, or drizzled with ghee.
The traditional Saudi coffee ritual now extends beyond private settings, entering new social spaces and reinventing itself in modern establishments.
The ritual is moving from homes and majlis to cafés, hotels, and airport lounges, becoming a public and accessible experience.
The growth is spectacular, with several hundred specialized brands in Jeddah and numerous cafés in Riyadh.
New establishments blend traditional qahwa with specialty espresso, creating a modern hybrid.
They serve ‘mocktails’ based on Saudi coffee and desserts flavored with cardamom, renewing the experience.
For an expatriate, learning the few basic rules – accepting the first cup, holding the cup with the right hand, knowing the gesture to say “that’s enough, thank you” – is enough to navigate this ritual without a faux pas. It also gains you access to a more relaxed conversation: around a finjan and a date, tongues loosen.
Halal in Daily Life: What It Concretely Changes for an Expatriate
Because the population is overwhelmingly Muslim and the Saudi state is based on Islamic law (Sharia), halal food is the norm. Everything related to animal products – meat, gelatin, enzymes, fats – is governed by precise regulatory texts, enforced by the SFDA and the Saudi Halal Center.
For imported products, halal certification is mandatory for meat, poultry, their derivatives (gelatin, collagen, enzymes), and foodstuffs containing an animal ingredient or displaying a halal logo. Slaughter must follow Islamic rites, any contamination with non-halal substances is prohibited, and labeling must be clear. Certificates are issued by accredited bodies, controlled by the Saudi Accreditation Center (SAAC) and the Gulf Accreditation Centre (GAC).
For an expatriate, the concrete impact is twofold. On one hand, most restaurants, snacks, hotels, cafés serve exclusively halal products. You won’t have to look for a specific label to avoid pork: it is completely absent from menus. Alcohol is also prohibited, even in fine dining restaurants. On the other hand, if you cook at home with imported products bought from international supermarkets, it’s useful to spot the “halal” label on Western meat products (cheeses with animal rennet, gelatin candies, beef or poultry cold cuts).
Non-Muslim expatriates can technically consume pork or alcohol at home according to local rules, but access is very limited and regulated. It is crucial to note that serving it to Saudi guests would be extremely awkward. A good practice is to consider that any meal including local guests must be exclusively halal.
This omnipresence of halal also structures the international restaurant scene. The steakhouses, Italian, sophisticated Japanese restaurants in Riyadh all work with certified supply chains. This influences the menus: wine-based dishes are revisited, cold cuts are often made from beef or poultry, some desserts avoid liqueurs. But the quality does not suffer: the capital’s high-end restaurants rival world-class establishments in technique, products, and service, all while respecting this framework.
Experiencing Gastronomy in Riyadh: From Traditional Najd to International Fusion
Riyadh, the political and economic capital, has also become a culinary laboratory. Increased openness to foreign investors, the goals of Vision 2030, and the rise of an urban middle class have transformed the city into an eclectic culinary scene.
The culinary offering in Saudi Arabia illustrates the transition between tradition and modernity. On one side, restaurants like Najd Village offer a traditional immersion with typical dishes (Kabsa, Mandi, Jareesh, Qursan) served in a décor recreating a Najd house, accompanied by desserts like Hanini or Ma’soub. On the other, modern establishments like Suhail or Suale reinterpret these same recipes in a ‘fine dining’ version, with refined presentations, revisited ingredients (Al Baha honey-glazed lamb shoulder, camel kefta), and a sophisticated non-alcoholic beverage menu.
Around this Saudi base, the entire culinary planet is invited: contemporary Japanese at Myazu or Roka, chic Mediterranean in Italian and Greek restaurants, modern Indian, French bistros, American steakhouses, premium fast-food. In one week, you can go from a breakfast of foul medames and tamees to a dinner of aged wagyu or sushi.
Prices follow this diversity. A typical day for an expatriate can cover the whole spectrum, as summarized in the following table.
| Type of Meal in Riyadh | Cost Range for 1 Person (SAR) | Example Setting |
|---|---|---|
| Simple breakfast (foul, bread, tea) | 10 – 25 | Neighborhood stall (Fawal, Tameesa…) |
| Street food (shawarma, falafel, liver…) | 15 – 30 | Popular snack like Mama Noura |
| Mid-range Saudi restaurant | 40 – 100 | Chain like Al Romansiah, Najd Village |
| Hotel buffet / brunch | 120 – 250 | Major international hotel |
| International fine dining restaurant | 200 – 500+ | Steakhouse, luxury Japanese |
For an expatriate, the challenge is not to multiply the most expensive tables, but to vary the experiences. A lunch at a camel liver specialty restaurant, a dinner at a Saudi-modern restaurant, a shawarma run after work, a coffee in a trendy concept store allow you to feel the city evolving.
Ramadan, Eid, and Other Key Moments: Eating to the Rhythm of the Religious Calendar
Saudi gastronomy also varies throughout the year. The month of Ramadan is its most visible moment. From dawn to sunset, Muslims fast: no food, drink, or cigarettes. This directly impacts meal times and outings.
For an expatriate, the first visible difference is the daytime closure of most restaurants, except for some delivery services for non-fasters or industrial kitchens. As maghreb (sunset prayer) approaches, the atmosphere changes: tables are covered with dates, light soups (lentils, local harira, chorba), sambousa, luqaimat, fruit juices (tamarind, jallab, sobia), foul, and salads. Iftar, the meal to break the fast, is often taken with family or in restaurants offering gigantic buffets.
At night, markets and streets come alive like rarely during the rest of the year. For an expatriate, it’s a unique opportunity to taste seasonal treats: Harees, Jareesh, all kinds of samboosa, luqaimat served piping hot, traditional drinks like tamr hindi or sobia. It is important, however, to refrain from eating and drinking in public during the day, out of respect for those who are fasting.
The Muslim holidays of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are associated with specific dishes. For Eid al-Fitr, marking the end of Ramadan, you find Mecca’s Debyaza (a dense compote of dried fruits and dates), ma’amoul (date-filled pastries), as well as coffee and various sweets. For Eid al-Adha, linked to the Hajj ritual sacrifice, lamb is honored, notably in preparations like Mahshoosh (lamb ribs fried and flavored with cinnamon) or the grand Mufattah (whole roasted lamb on rice).
These moments offer the expatriate a concentrated dive into the country’s culinary symbolism: relationship between sacrifice and sharing meat, importance of food charity, circulation of dishes from house to house.
Seasonality and Terroir: Dates Year-Round, But So Much More
If Saudi Arabia spontaneously evokes dates – with self-sufficiency exceeding 100% – the country actually produces a wide range of fruits and vegetables thanks to sophisticated irrigation systems and accelerated development of greenhouse agriculture.
Organization of crops around two main annual cycles, winter and summer, with their planting and harvest periods.
Planting in November-December and harvests around March. Vegetables: onions, garlic, carrots, peas, cauliflower, radish, spinach, lettuce, coriander, fava beans, and chickpeas.
Sowing in spring and harvests in late summer. Crops: watermelons, melons, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, peppers, and zucchini.
Fruits follow a similar logic. You find dates of course, but also watermelons and melons, mangoes, pomegranates, lemons, grapes, olives, apples, strawberries, bananas, oranges, figs, papayas, guavas, prickly pears, apricots, peaches, and plums depending on the region and season. Asir, for example, is renowned for its pomegranates and figs, while Al-Jouf combines wheat and olive trees.
For expatriates, fresh seasonal produce is available in markets and highlighted by government campaigns like ‘It’s Time’ or ‘Harvest Season,’ which promote their nutritional benefits. The development of greenhouse and hydroponic agriculture aims to increase local vegetable production and strengthen food security.
The increase in annual fruit and vegetable consumption, rising from about 180 kg to 220 kg per capita in a few years, also reflects an evolution in dietary habits and nutritional awareness.
Practical Tips for Expatriates: From the Plate to Integration
Discovering the local cuisine is not just about checking dishes off a list, but using it as a cultural bridge. A few reference points can help turn these discoveries into lasting experiences.
First, learn how to order. The words Kabsa, Mandi, Saleeg, Jareesh, Harees, Mutabbaq, Luqaimat, Ma’amoul, Kunafa, are keys to reading a menu. Understanding that “foul” refers to fava beans, “tamees” to bread, “qahwa” to coffee, “laban” to fermented milk, avoids misunderstandings. Asking the server one or two simple questions – “spicy or not?”, “lamb or chicken meat?” – creates a connection and informs you about local tastes.
In social contexts, especially during Ramadan or at the souq, it is common to be offered food, like luqaimat, dates, honey, or coffee. Refusing out of shyness or fear of being a bother can be perceived as impolite. It is better to accept a small portion with gratitude, thank warmly, then politely decline any additional offer if necessary.
Finally, avoid some classic pitfalls. Asking for “a good wine” at a restaurant creates definite awkwardness. Accidentally ordering pork is almost impossible, but offering to cook it for local guests would be a faux pas. Conspicuously eating in the street during the Ramadan fast is to be avoided. Photographing people without their consent, especially women and children, remains frowned upon.
To build deeper connections in Saudi Arabia, simple gestures like trying to pronounce polite words in Arabic or showing interest in the local cuisine are highly appreciated. For example, asking a colleague for their Kabsa recipe or listening to a colleague explain the difference between Jazan coffee and Najdi coffee can open the door to genuine friendships. These exchanges around dishes and regional culinary traditions foster authentic connection.
Within a few months, the expatriate who, upon arrival, struggled to distinguish a Mandi from a Machbous, finds themselves having very specific preferences: that Riyadh restaurant for Haneeth, that Jeddah market for mutabbaq, that café for perfectly balanced qahwa, that region for the most melting dates. Saudi gastronomy then ceases to be an exotic backdrop: it becomes a language one speaks, a memory in which one participates.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
