Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Saudi Arabia means entering a country where religion is not just a private matter, but the very fabric of daily life, law, work rhythms, and social relations. For an expatriate, understanding local religious practices is not a “cultural bonus”: it is a condition for daily comfort, for respecting the rules, and, very concretely, for ease in work and social life.
This guide offers a concrete view of life in a country officially governed by Islam, characterized by a strict interpretation of Sunnism, but which has also undergone profound social reforms in recent years.
A Country Structured by Islam
Saudi Arabia defines itself as the birthplace of Islam and the “Land of the Two Holy Mosques,” in Mecca and Medina. The king holds the title of “Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques,” which summarizes the close link between political power and religion. The Constitution is the Quran, and Islamic law (Sharia) forms the basis of the legal system, interpreted according to the Hanbali tradition and the Wahhabi school, a very strict form of Salafism.
Number of expatriate workers in the country, forming a massive foreign presence.
Islam is not merely a personal faith: it shapes the social order, family law, dress codes, holidays, the organization of the work week, shop hours, and even city architecture.
The Influence of Wahhabism on Daily Life
Wahhabism, born in the 18th century in Najd (the central region of the peninsula), advocates a strict return to the sources of Islam (Quran and hadiths) and rejects anything perceived as religious innovation (bid‘ah) or a form of superstition (shirk), such as the veneration of saints or tombs. Historically, this movement imposed:
Salafism is characterized by great sobriety in mosques, avoiding any decoration deemed excessive. It also expresses a distrust of religious celebrations that were not practiced by the first generations of Muslims, such as the celebration of the Prophet’s birthday. Finally, it advocates strict discipline regarding prayer, fasting, gender separation, and dress code.
This vision was long enforced vigorously by the “religious police” (mutaween), tasked with ensuring orthopraxy in public spaces. Since 2016–2017, its powers have been drastically reduced: no longer the right to arrest or prosecute, but only the ability to report offenses to the regular police. Nonetheless, social norms remain strong and the expectation of “Islamic” behavior persists.
The Five Daily Prayers: The Backbone of the Day
To understand the Saudi rhythm, one must start with prayer (salat), one of the five pillars of Islam. Every day, Muslims perform five obligatory prayers, the times of which are determined by the sun’s movement:
– Fajr (dawn)
– Dhuhr (noon)
– Asr (afternoon)
– Maghrib (sunset)
– Isha (night)
The exact times vary each day and by city. The country officially uses the “Umm al-Qura” calculation method from Mecca to set these times. In Riyadh, for example, the times on a given day look like this:
| City | Fajr | Dhuhr | Asr | Maghrib | Isha |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Riyadh | 05:16 | 12:06 | 15:13 | 17:35 | 19:05 |
For an expatriate, these times have very concrete consequences. Traditionally, Saudi Arabia was the only Muslim country where the closure of businesses during prayers was legally mandatory: shops, malls, banks would close their shutters at every call to prayer. In recent years, some rules have eased and many stores now stay open, but it is still common that:
– service slows down significantly during prayer
– employees are absent for a few minutes
– lines form just before and just after prayer
It is useful to download a reliable application (like Muslim Muna, IslamicFinder, or Athan) to organize your movements, professional appointments, and outings according to prayer times.
Friday, the Holy Day and the Reorganization of the Week
Friday (Jumu‘ah) is the most important day of the week. The noon prayer is then replaced by a large congregational prayer with a sermon, attended en masse by men and, depending on the location, by women in separate sections. The official weekend is Friday-Saturday, and government offices operate from Sunday to Thursday.
Discover the key moments and practices associated with the Friday prayer (Salat al-Jumu’ah) in the Muslim tradition.
A speech delivered by the imam before the prayer, including spiritual advice and reminders for the community.
The call is made twice: first to announce the start of the prayer time, and a second time just before the sermon.
An obligatory prayer of two units (rak’ahs) performed in a group, marking a central weekly gathering.
A privileged moment to increase personal supplications and reflect on the teachings after the prayer.
It is recommended to renew one’s ablutions and apply perfume before going to the mosque for this prayer.
– traffic becomes difficult near large mosques
– businesses adjust their hours
– a near-general slowdown in activity between late morning and early afternoon
For an expatriate, scheduling an important meeting on Friday at noon is rarely a good idea.
Ramadan: A Month That Transforms the Country
The month of Ramadan is perhaps the time of year when an expatriate most clearly perceives the impact of religion. The ninth month of the Islamic calendar, it is entirely based on fasting (sawm) from dawn to sunset. Healthy adult Muslims abstain from food, drink (including water), smoking, and intimate relations during the day. The objective is not only asceticism but also discipline, compassion for the less fortunate, and the intensification of prayer and charity.
How Daily Life Changes During Ramadan
During Ramadan, the country’s rhythm shifts:
During Ramadan, lifestyles and schedules are profoundly altered. Government offices and many companies reduce working hours, for example by implementing 6-hour days for Muslim employees, often concentrated in the morning. Schools also adopt reduced hours. Commercial and social life adapts: many restaurants remain closed during the day and only open at iftar (the breaking of the fast) to stay open late into the night. Consequently, streets are generally quiet during the day but become very lively in the evening, particularly around iftar time.
For non-Muslim expatriates, there is no obligation to fast. However, eating, drinking, or smoking in public during the day is prohibited and can be penalized. Therefore, it is necessary to organize oneself to:
– consume food and drinks only in private or designated spaces
– plan meals at the office (in a closed room, with absolute discretion)
– show patience and understanding towards tired colleagues at the end of the day
Dress code rules are also applied with a bit more rigor. A respectful attitude—avoiding loud music, jokes about fasting, public displays of affection—is particularly appreciated.
Iftar, Suhoor, and Nightlife
Ramadan is also a month of conviviality. Iftar, the meal that breaks the fast at sunset, traditionally begins with dates and water, followed by a heartier meal (rice, meat, soups, salads). Ramadan tents spring up in hotels and large restaurants offering sometimes sumptuous buffets. Expatriates are welcome, often by reservation.
Later in the night, a second meal (suhoor) is eaten before dawn. In some families, people stay up late, between visits, night prayers (taraweeh), and Quran reading. Mosques are very crowded, especially in the last ten nights, marked by the search for the “Night of Destiny” (Laylat al-Qadr), considered particularly blessed.
Ramadan Practices
Ramadan concludes with Eid al-Fitr, a major religious and national holiday, one of the only two official religious holidays in the country (along with Eid al-Adha, linked to the pilgrimage). Government offices and a large part of the private sector close for several days, families gather, and children receive gifts and new clothes.
Hajj, Umrah, and Access to the Holy Cities
Beyond Ramadan, the other major visible pillar of Saudi Islam is the pilgrimage to Mecca. There are two types of pilgrimage:
– Hajj, the great obligatory pilgrimage that every Muslim who is physically and financially capable must perform once in their lifetime, at specific dates in the month of Dhu al-Hijjah. It generally lasts five to six days, bringing together over two million faithful each year from more than 180 countries.
– Umrah, the “minor” optional pilgrimage, which can be performed almost any time of the year outside the Hajj period, highly encouraged and at the heart of the country’s religious tourism strategy (official goal: 30 million Umrah pilgrims per year by 2030).
The main rites take place in and around the Great Mosque of Mecca: circumambulation (tawaf) around the Kaaba, walking (sa‘i) between the hills of Safa and Marwah, standing at Arafat, night at Muzdalifah, symbolic stoning at Mina. In Medina, the Prophet’s Mosque and prayers at his tomb hold a central place in the pilgrims’ spiritual journey.
Strict Prohibition for Non-Muslims
For a non-Muslim expatriate, this is a fundamental point: access to Mecca is strictly forbidden. This prohibition is based on religious texts (notably a verse from Surah 9 of the Quran) and a very concrete legal and security apparatus. The Saudi state:
– restricts Hajj and Umrah visas to Muslims only
– controls roads leading to Mecca with checkpoints, with explicit signs in Arabic and English
– sometimes verifies declared religion and may request a certificate of conversion for new Muslims
Attempting to enter Mecca as a non-Muslim exposes one to serious penalties: arrest, fine, deportation, ban from the territory. Publicized cases of journalists who circumvented the prohibition have sparked strong reactions in the country.
Medina is more accessible: non-Muslims may enter the city, stay there, use the airport, hotels, and transportation. However, the sacred area around the Prophet’s Mosque, marked by barriers and signs, is off-limits to them. Historical sites like Mount Uhud or some museums are sometimes considered “gray” areas: it is best to inquire locally or scrupulously follow the signage.
Behind the Scenes: Logistics and Public Health
The Hajj and Umrah also represent a public health challenge. Studies show that these mass gatherings increase risks:
Main dangers to anticipate include the transmission of infectious diseases, the worsening of chronic conditions (cardiac, respiratory…), heatstroke and dehydration in a climate often above 40°C, as well as dangerous, sometimes fatal, crowd movements.
Saudi authorities work with the World Health Organization and other institutions to develop protocols (distancing, hygiene, mask-wearing during pandemics, etc.). The COVID‑19 crisis led to unprecedented restrictions: suspension of Umrah, Hajj limited to residents, reduced quotas, and strengthened health measures. These episodes also showed the country’s ability to adjust its religious practices according to health imperatives.
For an expatriate living in Mecca, Medina, or neighboring regions, these pilgrimage seasons involve:
– a very sharp increase in air and road traffic
– higher hotel prices
– increased checks
– sometimes traffic restrictions
It is better to plan travel in advance or, if possible, schedule vacations outside of Hajj peaks.
The Islamic Calendar and Official Holidays
Saudi Arabia uses the Islamic lunar calendar (Hijri) for religious holidays. Twelve months of 29 or 30 days make up a year shorter than the Gregorian year. The dates of major celebrations therefore shift by about ten days each year in the “Western” calendar. Recognized public holidays are limited to:
– Eid al-Fitr: end of Ramadan
– Eid al-Adha: Feast of the Sacrifice, during the Hajj
The country has introduced or reinforced non-religious national holidays (Foundation Day, National Day, Flag Day), which are more about patriotism than religion. For an expatriate, the main thing is to plan professional projects, travel, and bookings anticipating these periods of high traffic and administrative closures.
Gender, Mixing, and Reform: A Sensitive Terrain
For a long time, Saudi Arabia took the separation of genders (ikhtilat) very far. Restaurants divided into “family” and “singles” (single men) sections, segregated universities and hospitals, female professions confined to environments without contact with men, requirement of a male guardian for travel or work… These norms were claimed to be based on Sharia, with the idea of “protecting from corruption.”
Since 2017, a series of significant reforms has profoundly altered the landscape:
In recent years, Saudi Arabia has implemented significant reforms concerning women’s rights and social participation.
Women have gained the right to drive. The requirement for a guardian to travel, obtain a passport, or work has been eased for adult women.
Stadiums, some cultural events, and many restaurants are now mixed, expanding women’s access to social life.
Women are accessing high-level positions in key sectors such as diplomacy, administration, and the military.
Nonetheless, society remains largely conservative and gaps between regions are strong: more flexibility in Jeddah or Riyadh, more strictness in Qassim or certain areas of Medina. As an expatriate, it is prudent:
– to observe how men and women interact in your professional or residential environment
– to avoid any spontaneous physical contact with a person of the opposite sex (handshake included) until you are sure it is welcome
– to respect reserved spaces (lanes, waiting rooms, family sections) when they still exist
Dress Codes: Between Law, Custom, and Prudence
The notion of haya (modesty, shyness) is central in local Islamic ethics. It inspires a whole set of explicit and implicit rules regarding dress, gestures, and even tone of voice.
For Expatriate Women
Strictly legally speaking, since 2019, there is no longer a written requirement mandating the wearing of an abaya (long cloak) or hijab in public for foreign women. The Crown Prince even stated that any modest dress could suffice. But in practice:
Form-fitting, transparent, sleeveless, or above-the-knee clothing is very poorly viewed. In conservative cities or near religious sites, wearing an abaya and a discreet scarf remains the expected norm. To enter a mosque, a covering abaya and a headscarf are mandatory.
Many expatriate women adopt a pragmatic strategy: jeans or loose pants, ample tunic covering the hips, long or three-quarter sleeves, a scarf in the bag to cover the head if necessary. In more liberal places (certain neighborhoods in Riyadh or Jeddah, private compounds, resorts), codes relax; in others, a headscarf is appreciated, even expected.
For Expatriate Men
Expectations are more simple but real:
On the street and in public places (outside private pools), it is prohibited to wear shorts above the knee, tank tops, or to be shirtless. Clothing must be clean, non-form-fitting, and should not contain obscene, racist, drug-glorifying, pornographic, or blasphemous messages or images. Non-compliance with these rules is subject to fines.
Wearing the thobe (long white traditional garment) is not mandatory for foreigners, but some willingly adopt it to integrate.
Possible Sanctions
The “public decency” rules introduced in 2019 provide for fines for:
| Infraction (examples) | 1ˢᵗ infraction (SAR) | Repeat (SAR) |
|---|---|---|
| Attire deemed indecent (too short, transparent, etc.) | 100 | 200 |
| Clothing promoting racism, drugs, pornography, etc. | 500 | 1,000 |
| Underwear or pajamas worn in public space | 100 | 200 |
For an expatriate, it is better to err on the side of caution, especially during the first months, while decoding the local style of your neighborhood or company.
Religious Prohibitions Transformed into Legal Bans
In the Wahhabi mindset, what is religiously illicit (haram) must be so in positive law. Concretely:
Several products and activities are strictly prohibited: alcohol (except in certain diplomatic spaces), pork meat and its derivatives, and all forms of gambling. Proselytizing for a non-Muslim faith is illegal. Blasphemy and apostasy are theoretically punishable by severe penalties.
For non-Muslim expatriates, this implies: a number of challenges and necessary adaptations to live in a different cultural and religious environment.
– to avoid any religious discussion that could be perceived as an attempt at conversion
– to limit the possession of worship items to discreet and private use
– to never criticize Islam, its figures, or the royal family, in public or on social media
Non-Muslim Practices: Private Tolerance, Public Prohibition
Even though millions of Christians, Hindus, Buddhists, or others live and work in the country, they cannot display their religion in public space. No visible church, no temple, no open celebration of Christmas or Diwali, no processions.
In practice, many communities organize:
Different forms of worship and community support in contexts requiring discretion.
Organization of prayer moments in private homes or secured residences (compounds).
Holding discreet celebrations on the occasion of major religious holidays.
Setting up mutual aid networks via social media and informal associations.
Authorities generally turn a blind eye as long as these activities remain strictly private, quiet, and non-proselytizing. For a non-Muslim expatriate, the golden rule is discretion.
Social Relations and Religious Etiquette
In daily life, religion, culture, and politeness blend. A few markers help avoid faux pas.
Greeting, Speaking, Behaving
The classic greeting is “As-salaam alaykum” (peace be upon you), to which one responds “Wa alaykum as-salaam“. Many Saudis appreciate it when a foreigner uses this formula. When offered coffee or tea, systematically refusing can be perceived as an affront; accepting at least a small cup shows respect.
In the Middle East, the right hand is traditionally used for eating, giving, or receiving an object, as the left is considered impure. It is also very impolite to point the sole of your shoe towards someone. Finally, avoid direct questions about one’s wife or female family members; prefer to ask about the family as a whole.
Conversations generally avoid topics considered divisive: the interlocutor’s religion, Saudi politics, the royal family. Faith is an omnipresent topic but is approached within a largely consensual framework.
Hospitality and Generosity
Hospitality is a pillar of the culture. Visiting a Saudi family often means being welcomed with: Arabic coffee, dates, and warm conversations. It is an enriching experience that reflects the values of respect and generosity, essential in Saudi society.
– Arabic coffee (gahwa) flavored with cardamom, served in small cups
– dates, a symbol of prosperity and goodness
– sometimes a full meal, especially if the visit is announced
To politely decline a refill, gently shake your small coffee cup. Regarding gifts, it is not systematic to open them immediately in the presence of the giver; it is sometimes preferable to do so later.
Food, Halal, and Table Manners
Food is entirely subject to halal rules. Animals must be slaughtered according to a specific rite, and alcohol and pork are banned. Emblematic dishes include:
– kabsa or machbous: spiced rice with meat (lamb, chicken)
– khūzī: stuffed lamb, considered a national dish
– shawarma, hummus, tharid, and of course the ever-present dates
When invited, one does not comment negatively on the menu, one tastes what is offered, and avoids discussing sad or controversial topics during the meal.
Working and Doing Business in a Religious Context
For an expatriate on a professional mission, religious practices strongly structure office life.
Work schedules are adjusted according to prayers and shortened during Ramadan. Prayer rooms are available in most companies and shopping malls, and staff are free to perform their prayers. Meetings are planned taking prayer times and Friday into account. Holidays (Eid, National Day, Foundation Day) create breaks of several days, which must be integrated into project planning.
Understanding and integrating these parameters into planning and communication with colleagues and clients is a sign of respect that will be very positively perceived.
Research, Reforms, and Perceptions: An Evolving Landscape
Several recent studies highlight that, in the Arab world in general, a high level of religiosity often goes hand in hand with opposition to gender reforms, but also that the importance of religion in daily life can sometimes strengthen the desire for equality among some women who reinterpret tradition in their own way. Saudi Arabia is not exempt from these tensions.
Since 2017, Saudi Arabia has undertaken major social reforms (lifting the driving ban for women, opening up jobs, access to influential positions, curbing the role of the religious police, promoting entertainment) aiming for a “moderate Islam” and economic modernization (Vision 2030). However, polls indicate that a significant portion of women still support the old male guardianship system or fear that these changes may weaken Islam.
For an expatriate, the main message is twofold:
– not to automatically project Western categories (“secularism,” “separation of church and state”) onto the Saudi reality
– to perceive that the country is in transition and that positions can vary considerably from one generation, social class, or region to another
Practical Tips for Living Well with the Religious Dimension Daily
Without being exhaustive, a few reflexes greatly facilitate integration:
For harmonious interaction, use a prayer app to anticipate closures and slowdowns. Note key periods of the Islamic calendar (Ramadan, Eid, Hajj season) in your professional agenda. Adopt modest attire by default, adjusting it according to the context (compound, international hotel, conservative neighborhood). Avoid eating or drinking in public during Ramadan and near mosques, even outside this month. Respond to Islamic greetings, politely accept an offer of coffee or tea when possible, and thank warmly. Finally, be curious but respectful: asking questions about rites and holidays is often well received, provided it does not resemble a theological debate.
Furthermore, the country is multiplying digital tools (e-government applications, e-visa, information portals) that allow one to follow official announcements about holidays, pilgrimage seasons, or regulatory changes. Using these resources greatly reduces the risk of unpleasant surprises.
Conclusion: Understanding to Feel at Home
Living in Saudi Arabia means evolving in a space where the call to prayer structures the days, where the closure of a store is explained by a religious duty, where the great human migrations to Mecca and Medina remind one each year of the universality of Islam, but also in a country undergoing profound recomposition, seeking to reconcile ultra-religious conservatism, modern nationalism, and openness to foreign visitors.
For an expatriate, the challenge is not to share these beliefs, but to understand them. Grasping the meaning of fasting during Ramadan, the logic of the Hajj, the role of modesty (haya), the strength of family, the links between religious prohibition and civil law, allows one to:
– respect one’s interlocutors without awkwardness
– adjust one’s habits smoothly
– enjoy unique experiences (iftars, Saudi hospitality, culinary discoveries, spiritual landscapes of Medina or Diriyah)
By learning to read the religious codes that structure Saudi Arabia, the expatriate ceases to merely endure this framework and instead makes it a common language with colleagues, neighbors, and hosts. It is under this condition that the stay goes beyond a mere professional contract to become a true life experience.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
