Geography of Greenland

Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias

Wedged between the Arctic Ocean and the North Atlantic, Greenland fascinates as much by its immense size as by the apparent extreme simplicity of its map: a vast white mass amid cold seas. Yet behind this image lies a geography of rare complexity, where a gigantic ice sheet, some of the world’s most spectacular fjords, seas with contrasting currents, one of the planet’s oldest bedrock foundations, and coastal margins that harbor virtually all of the country’s life all intermingle.

An Arctic Giant: General Framework and Dimensions

Greenland is the largest island on Earth, with a total area of approximately 2.16 million square kilometers. It stretches nearly 2,670 kilometers from north to south and over 650 kilometers from east to west at its widest point. More than two-thirds of its territory lies north of the Arctic Circle, making it the most northerly country on the planet. Its northern tip, around Kaffeklubben Island, ranks among the closest permanent landmasses to the North Pole.

44,000

Greenland’s coastline, carved by numerous fjords and bays, stretches more than 44,000 kilometers.

A Surface Almost Entirely Under Ice

The country’s dominant geographic feature is the Greenland ice sheet, the second largest in volume on the planet after Antarctica. It covers about 1.71 million square kilometers, roughly 79 to 84% of the territory depending on estimates. In practical terms, only about 410,000 square kilometers of land are currently ice‑free, roughly equivalent to the area of Sweden.

Good to know:

This ice sheet has an average thickness of 1.5 to 1.7 km, exceeding 3 km in places. Its volume is estimated at between 2.85 and 2.9 million km³ of ice, representing about 7 to 10% of the planet’s frozen freshwater reserves. Its weight is so great that it depresses the bedrock below sea level; if it were to melt entirely, much of the interior would become a marine basin or an immense lake.

The table below summarizes some key orders of magnitude for Greenland’s ice sheet.

Indicator Approximate Value
Ice sheet area 1.71 million km²
Portion of territory covered by ice 79–84%
Average thickness 1.5–1.7 km
Maximum thickness > 3 km
Volume of ice ~2.85–2.9 million km³
Share of global frozen freshwater ~7–10%
Sea level rise if fully melted ~7.2–7.4 m (≈ 24 ft)

Relief, Extremes, and Territorial Structure

Beneath this shell of ice, Greenland is not a uniform plateau, but a puzzle of mountains, canyons, and basins. The ice‑free relief is concentrated in a narrow, highly indented coastal fringe, while the interior is dominated by the ice dome.

Mountains, Canyons, and Extremities

The country’s highest point is Gunnbjørn Fjeld, in the Watkins Range to the east, reaching an altitude of 3,694 to 3,700 meters—the highest summit in the entire Arctic. The ice sheet surface itself rises to about 3,200 meters in the east‑central part of the island before descending toward the coastal margins, where the ice escapes through powerful outlet glaciers.

Around the white mantle, the coasts display a typical glacial profile: steep mountains above the fjords, bare or sparsely vegetated rocky slopes, deep valleys invaded by the sea. Beneath the ice, geophysical research has revealed the existence of a giant canyon, sometimes called the “Grand Canyon of Greenland,” which may have once guided a large river flowing westward before the last glaciation.

Geographic description of Greenland

The country’s extreme points delineate the extent of this Arctic territory:

Extreme Point Location / Approximate Coordinates
Northernmost point (land) Kaffeklubben Island (~83°40’ N)
Northernmost point (mainland) Cape Morris Jesup (~83°39’ N)
Southernmost point (islet) Islet south of Cape Farewell (~59°44’ N)
Westernmost point Nordvestø, Carey Islands (~73°10’ W)
Easternmost point Nordostrundingen (~11°19’ W)

One of the World’s Oldest Crusts

The country’s geological foundation belongs to the North American craton and contains some of the oldest known rocks on Earth. In the Isua Greenstone Belt, in the southwest, geologists have identified rocks dating back 3.7 to 3.8 billion years. Around Nuuk and Qeqertarsuatsiaat, crystalline gneisses—such as the Amitsoq gneiss or the Nuuk gneiss—date to about 3.6 billion years ago.

Example:

Further south, the Ketilidian orogenic belt bears witness to ancient plate collisions. On the east coast, the Skaergaard layered intrusion, formed about 55 million years ago, illustrates major volcanic episodes linked to the opening of the North Atlantic. The country also bears traces of a mantle plume, now located beneath Iceland, which helped uplift the ocean floor in the Denmark Strait.

This deep architecture, combined with a long history of glaciations, has shaped a complex coastal relief and basins conducive to storing sediments, minerals, and potentially hydrocarbons.

Climate: From Ice‑Sheet Desert to Fjords Tempered by the Gulf Stream

Despite its image of a uniform frozen block, Greenland displays a climatic palette ranging from polar ice‑sheet climate to coastal tundra climate, with strong differences between the hyper‑arctic north and the more temperate southwest under Atlantic influence.

A Multifaceted Arctic Climate

Across the entire island, the climate is classified as Arctic to subarctic, with short, cool summers and long, cold winters. The ice‑covered interior experiences an ice‑cap climate, where temperatures remain almost permanently below freezing. On the coast, a tundra climate prevails: winter temperatures are less extreme but still well below freezing, and summer brings only moderate warming.

-9

Average winter temperature in Nuuk, Greenland’s capital, moderated by the influence of the Gulf Stream.

The extremes recorded on the territory give a sense of the contrasts:

Temperature Record Value and Location
Lowest temperature (NH) –69.6 °C at Klinck Station (1991)
National heat record 30.1 °C at Ivittuut (June 1915)
Heat record at Summit (ice sheet) 2.2 °C at the summit of the ice sheet

Further north and east, especially in Peary Land and the Lincoln Sea, the dryness is such that one speaks of “Arctic deserts”: annual precipitation drops to a few tens of millimeters, mainly as snow, while temperatures remain largely negative for most of the year.

A Concrete Expression of Arctic Warming

The Arctic is warming faster than the rest of the globe, and Greenland offers an open‑air laboratory. In the north, warming since the mid‑20th century has already reached 2.7 to 3.6 °F, and over some measurement periods, winter temperatures have risen by nearly 5.6 °C at stations such as Swiss Camp on the ice sheet.

Attention:

The most visible effects of climate change in the Arctic concern snow, ice, and seas. The period of sea‑ice cover has shortened, summer sea ice has virtually disappeared in the southeast since the 2000s, and the ice sheet melt season now extends from April to November. Extreme melt events have been observed, such as in 2012 when 97% of the ice sheet surface showed signs of thaw in summer.

In 2021, a symbolic milestone was reached: rain was observed for the first time at Summit Station, at the heart of the ice sheet—a place previously dominated by solid precipitation. Such episodes illustrate the gradual shift in the country’s climatic geography.

The Ice Sheet: Physical Core and Global Stakes

Imposing on the map, the Greenland ice sheet is even more so by its role in the global climate system. Its geography, mass fluxes, and interactions with the ocean are reshaping both the territory and coastlines far beyond the Arctic.

Dimensions, Dynamics, and Glacial History

The ice sheet stretches nearly 2,900 kilometers from north to south, with a maximum width of about 1,100 kilometers near the 77th parallel. Its annual mass cycle is often analyzed from September to the end of August: it gains mass mainly in winter through snowfall, and loses mass in spring and summer through surface melt and iceberg calving.

Tip:

Geological reconstructions indicate that Greenland has been covered by large glaciers for at least 18 million years, with a coherent ice sheet covering most of the island for about 2.6 million years. Its recent history is marked by significant fluctuations. During the Eemian (130,000 to 115,000 years ago), the ice sheet was reduced to the highest peaks in the south. Ice cores, such as those from Camp Century or the Prudhoe Dome, reveal that entire sectors of ice have disappeared at least once over the past 1.4 million years.

During the early Holocene, about 7,000 years ago, temperatures were 3 to 5 °C higher than today, and some peripheral ice masses like the Prudhoe Dome completely melted before reforming. Conversely, during the Little Ice Age in historical times, the ice sheet gained mass and advanced sometimes more than 100 kilometers beyond its current front.

Calving, Melt, and Contribution to Sea Level

Since the late 1990s, the mass balance of the ice sheet has been clearly negative. The last year of net gain is thought to be 1996. Over the period 2003‑2024, the GRACE and GRACE‑FO satellites estimate the average annual loss at about 219 gigatons, with high‑loss years such as 2012 (464 Gt) and 2019 (586 Gt). Over the long term, Greenland is estimated to have already contributed about 13.5 millimeters to sea‑level rise since 1972 and 10 millimeters between 1992 and 2015.

Good to know:

Surface melting is primarily controlled by weather, sunlight, and snow conditions. The transformation of snow into “dark ice” (due to dust or ash) reduces albedo, increasing the absorption of solar energy. This leads to the formation of melt lakes, whose water can infiltrate via “moulins” to the base of glaciers, lubricating them or weakening ice shelves through hydrofracturing.

On the other hand, calving and melting at the base of marine‑terminating glacier fronts are driven by warmer ocean waters. Major glaciers such as Jakobshavn Isbræ (Sermeq Kujalleq) on the west coast, Helheim and Kangerdlugssuaq in the east, and Petermann in the north discharge entire sections of ice into the fjords. Spectacular events have been documented: in 2008, a massive block of ice broke off from Jakobshavn in 75 minutes; in 2010, a 260 km² iceberg calved from Petermann Glacier, followed by another of 120 km² in 2012.

The following table summarizes some figures on recent ice loss and its marine impact.

Period / Year Estimated Net Ice Loss Annual Contribution to Sea Level
1992–2001 Reference (low loss) –
2000–2008 ~1,500 Gt cumulative –
2003–2024 (average) –219 ± 16 Gt/yr ~0.6–0.7 mm/yr
2012 464 Gt ~1.3 mm
2019 586 Gt ~1.6 mm
2012–2017 (annual average) – 0.68 mm/yr
1972–present (cumulative) – ~13.7 mm

A System Approaching a Threshold

Climate projections suggest that even if the goal of the Paris Agreement—keeping warming well below 2 °C—were met, Greenland melt would still add about 6 centimeters to sea level by the end of the century. Without emission reductions, this contribution would rise to around 13 centimeters, with extreme scenarios exceeding 30 centimeters.

3.3

Percentage of the ice sheet already committed to disappear due to the observed climate between 2000 and 2019, equivalent to about 27 centimeters of future sea‑level rise.

Melting is not limited to raising the oceans. Greenland redistributes freshwater and nutrients into the North Atlantic, modifies deep‑ocean circulation—the famous AMOC—by diluting the salinity of surface waters, and triggers isostatic rebound of the bedrock, which slowly rises as the weight of ice decreases. These adjustments also alter Earth’s gravity field and regional sea‑level distribution.

Seas, Currents, and Fjords: Greenland’s Maritime Geography

Around the continent of ice, the seas play a central role in physical, ecological, and human geography. Greenland’s margins are a laboratory where polar waters, warmer Atlantic waters, drifting sea ice, fjord ice, and gigantic icebergs meet.

Contrasting and Strategic Seas

To the north, the Lincoln Sea directly borders the Arctic pack ice, long covered by perennial ice. To the east, the Greenland Sea spans more than 1.2 million square kilometers, connecting the Arctic basin to the Atlantic via the Fram Strait. There, in winter, cooled Atlantic waters sink into the depths, contributing to the global thermohaline circulation machinery.

800,000

More than 800,000 square kilometers of sea ice are transported each year by a vast drift current from the Fram Strait along Greenland’s eastern coast.

Offshore, several currents intersect: the East Greenland Current, which carries cold, fresh polar waters southward over the eastern continental shelf; the East Greenland Coastal Current, pressed along the shoreline; and on the western side, the West Greenland Current, which pushes northward warmer, saltier Atlantic‑origin waters along the shelf. This configuration partly explains why the southwest enjoys a milder maritime climate and why many large fjords there remain free of sea ice in winter.

Fjords: Submerged Canyons with High Productivity

Greenland’s coastline is laced with hundreds of fjords, sometimes more than a kilometer deep, stretching tens or even hundreds of kilometers in length but only a few kilometers wide in places. Major systems like Nuup Kangerlua (Godthåbsfjord), about 190 kilometers long, or the gigantic Kangertittivaq (Scoresby Sund) in the east, which extends 350 kilometers and covers nearly 10,000 km², rank among the world’s largest fjords.

Fjord Systems of Southeast Greenland

Overview of the distinctive characteristics of fjords in the region between 60° and 70°N, including their topography and connections to glaciers.

Number and Diversity

The region contains at least 52 fjord systems, each with its own topography and submarine sills.

Marine‑Terminating Glacier Fjords

Some fjords, like Nuup Kangerlua, are directly fed by glaciers that terminate in the sea.

Land‑Terminating Glacier Fjords

Others, such as Ameralik south of Nuuk, receive input only from land‑terminating glaciers.

This distinction has profound ecological consequences. Where glaciers terminate in the water, subglacial discharges inject freshwater at the base of the water column, forcing deep, nutrient‑rich waters upward. This natural “pump” extends the phytoplankton growing season and enhances carbon fixation efficiency. Conversely, in fjords fed only by land‑terminating glaciers, lacking this sub‑marine forcing, primary production is lower and dominated by smaller microorganisms.

A comparative study quantified these contrasts:

Fjord Type Marine‑Terminating Glaciers Land‑Terminating Glaciers Only
Annual primary production ~90 g C/m²/yr ~30 g C/m²/yr
CO₂ uptake ~42 g C/m² ~24 g C/m²
Biological dominance (surface) Diatoms & large mesozooplankton Bacteria, picophytoplankton, small zooplankton

These fjords harbor remarkably rich ecosystems and concentrate a large share of human activity: Inuit villages, fishing grounds, shipping routes, and scientific research sites.

Sea Ice, Polynyas, and Coastal Ice

The sea ice around Greenland follows a pronounced seasonal cycle. In Baffin Bay, ice first forms in the north and west around December, then gradually spreads southward, reaching its maximum extent around March. On the east coast, the combination of the East Greenland Current and winds pushes drifting ice southward.

Good to know:

Along the shores and inside fjords, so‑called “coastal ice” or “land‑fast ice” forms. It remains attached to the coastline and nearly stationary, except when broken by storms or seasonal melting. Between this fixed ice and the drifting pack ice farther offshore, a highly dynamic shear zone often appears, characterized by fractures and open‑water channels called “leads.”

Some regions, however, maintain open‑water areas even in the depths of winter: the polynyas. The North Water polynya, between Greenland and Canada, is one of the most productive in the world; others, such as Northeast Water off the northeast coast or the polynya off Scoresby Sund, play a critical role for birds, marine mammals, and the human communities that depend on them for hunting.

Lively Coasts: Ecosystems, Resources, and Communities

While Greenland’s icy interior is nearly deserted, its maritime margins are teeming with life. All of the country’s human geography is backed against these narrow coastal strips, where biological resources, infrastructure, and villages are concentrated.

A Sparse Coastal Population

With about 56,000 to 58,000 inhabitants over more than 2.16 million square kilometers, Greenland has the lowest population density in the world, roughly 0.03 people per square kilometer. The vast ice‑covered interior has no permanent settlements; all towns and localities lie along the coast, mainly on the western side and in the milder south. The north and east are home to only about 10% of the population.

The capital Nuuk concentrates nearly a quarter of the population, around 18,000 to 19,000 people, on the shores of a fjord some 190 kilometers deep. Other major settlements, such as Sisimiut, Ilulissat, Qaqortoq, and Aasiaat, remain modest in size, rarely exceeding 5,000 inhabitants. In total, there are 17 towns with more than 500 residents and about fifty smaller villages.

Example:

The lack of a continental road network in Greenland makes travel between towns entirely dependent on air or sea routes, and sometimes dog sleds in winter. For instance, to get from Nuuk to Ilulissat, about 300 km apart as the crow flies, one must take a plane or a boat that follows the winding course of the fjords, because the longest drivable road in the country does not exceed about thirty kilometers.

Seas That Nourish the Country

Greenland’s economy is intimately linked to the sea. The waters surrounding the island harbor about 250 species of fish, along with a multitude of invertebrates, marine mammals, and seabirds. Fishing is by far the main economic activity, accounting for more than 90% of exports. Northern shrimp (Pandalus borealis) long provided the most lucrative catch, while Greenland halibut—found in deep waters both east and west—is now a pillar of exports.

500,000

Atlantic cod catches reached half a million tons per year in the late 1960s before the stocks collapsed.

This biogeographic upheaval is one of the most visible manifestations of climate change on the country’s ecological geography: Arctic species such as polar cod or certain ice‑dependent cetaceans see their habitat shrink, while humpback whales, fin whales, orcas, and dolphins expand their ranges northward and increasingly frequent, for example, the fjords of the southeast.

Tundra, Wooded Valleys, and a Single Forest

On land, vegetation is generally sparse, dominated by tundra of grasses, sedges, mosses, lichens, and a few dwarf shrubs. More than 500 vascular plant species have been recorded, compared to about 310 at the start of the 20th century, a sign that the flora is enriching as the climate warms. Diversity is greatest in the southwest, where sheltered fjords benefit from a relatively mild microclimate.

The Qinngua Valley, near Nanortalik, stands as a geographic exception: over 15 kilometers in length, this narrow, sheltered valley flanked by mountains over 1,500 meters high hosts the only true natural forest in the country. Downy birches, willows, rowans, and junipers form a tree canopy that contrasts sharply with the surrounding barren landscapes. Elsewhere in the south, a few groves of birch, alder, or willow create sporadic patches of greenery, notably in the Kujataa fjords, a UNESCO World Heritage site for its agro‑pastoral landscape blending Inuit and Norse heritage.

In these same regions, the geography is mild enough to allow limited agriculture: sheep farming, fodder production, experimental cultivation of vegetables (cabbage, carrots, potatoes), and even fruits like apples and strawberries, confined to the most favorable pockets.

The Coast as a Moving Frontier: Climate Change and Spatial Recomposition

Beyond the mass balance of the ice sheet, warming is profoundly altering the geography of coastal margins, where human activities and the richest ecosystems unfold.

Atlantification and Water Stratification

Along the northeast coast, oceanographers have observed for about twenty years a phenomenon termed “Atlantification”: warmer, saltier Atlantic waters penetrate deeper into fjords and onto the continental shelf. This intrusion has warmed local marine temperatures by more than a degree in recent decades, sometimes over 2 °C in portions of the East Greenland Current south of 73.5°N since 1980.

Good to know:

The warming of ocean waters accelerates the melting of glacier tongues from below, causing their thinning and the retreat of their fronts. Meanwhile, the excessive input of freshwater from surface melt and calving alters water stratification. This can strengthen the surface layer, limit vertical mixing, and thus reduce the upwelling of nutrients essential to phytoplankton, affecting the base of the marine food web.

Projections indicate that, until the end of the century, sea surface temperatures around Greenland could increase by an average of 0.3 °C per decade, with a continued decline in sea ice, particularly pronounced in the Greenland Sea (–9% ice area per decade) and Baffin Bay (–4% per decade since 1979).

Glacial Retreat, New Landscapes, and Ecological Disruptions

Glacial retreat is progressively exposing new surfaces, both terrestrial and marine. Where a glacier tongue once terminated in the water, bays and fjords are now opening, sometimes revealing islands previously fused to the land by ice. Uunartoq Qeqertaq (“warming island” or “warm island”), unveiled in the mid‑2000s off the east coast, is one of the most publicized examples of these melt‑induced geographic discoveries.

Attention:

Permafrost thaw and increased coastal erosion are weakening infrastructure, altering natural habitats, and forcing communities to adapt to higher risks of flooding and to a redistribution of subsistence activities such as fishing and hunting.

Ecologically, projections indicate a decrease in primary production in the southern seas, where stronger stratification could limit nutrient inputs to the surface. Conversely, in Baffin Bay or the eastern part of the Greenland Sea, reduced sea ice could extend the growing season and stimulate phytoplankton production. Zooplankton biomass is expected to decline in the west and south, while that of some fish may increase northward, particularly in Baffin Bay.

Human Geography Under Pressure

For the inhabitants, many of whom still depend on the sea for subsistence and employment, these changes translate into a reconfiguration of the “mental maps” of the territory. Traditional hunting routes on sea ice disappear earlier in the season or no longer form in some places, forcing adjustments to hunting periods and techniques. Species once abundant—such as the narwhal or certain polar cod populations—are declining, while new ecological players, such as large bowhead whales, various cetaceans, and more temperate fish, are making incursions into southeastern and western fjords.

Good to know:

Climate warming is drastically reducing the summer habitats of ice‑dependent species (beluga, narwhal, bowhead whale). This transformation of the coastline forces local communities and the geography of the territory to adapt simultaneously.

Resources, Subsoil, and Energy: The Geography of Wealth

Beneath the ice and surface rocks, Greenland harbors an impressive array of mineral and energy resources. Their geographic distribution, often in remote regions, influences debates on economic development and land use.

Minerals, Critical Metals, and Potential Hydrocarbons

Greenland’s subsoil contains deposits of zinc, lead, iron, coal, molybdenum, gold, platinum, uranium, niobium, tantalum, as well as vast resources of rare earth elements (REEs). Projects such as Kvanefjeld (Kuannersuit) in the south or Kringlerne attract interest for their potential in rare earths and uranium, even though environmental and social concerns are highly sensitive.

25

Number of critical raw materials out of 34 identified by the EU whose presence is suggested in the country, with rare earth reserves comparable to those of the United States.

These resources, however, remain difficult to access: remoteness, extreme climate, lack of road and port infrastructure, and mobilization of a civil society attentive to climate impacts currently limit their exploitation. The territory has only a handful of active mines and several dozen exploration or exploitation permits.

Water in Motion: Hydrology, Hydropower, and Future Potential

In a territory so dominated by ice, hydrology follows very particular lines. Large classic rivers do not flow across the interior surface; instead, meltwater carves paths beneath the ice or emerges at glacier outlets, plunging directly into deep fjords. Models suggest that without the ice sheet, Greenland’s interior could host a large network of rivers converging westward, or even an immense lake or internal marine basin connected to the sea via passages such as Ilulissat Icefjord or Nordostrundingen.

70

Percentage of electricity already produced from renewable sources, mainly hydropower, in Greenland.

A Geography Shaped by Research and Exploration

If Greenland occupies such a central place in contemporary debates, it is also because it lies at the heart of international scientific programs that scrutinize its glaciers, its bedrock, and its seas.

Good to know:

Drilling at polar stations (Summit Camp, Camp Century, etc.) allows reconstruction of past climate over hundreds of thousands of years. Satellites (GRACE‑FO, ICESat‑2) measure detailed changes in ice thickness and ground movements. Furthermore, GNSS station networks reveal that the Earth’s mantle retains a long memory of glacial loads and is still adjusting to the disappearance of the former Laurentide ice sheet that covered North America.

On the coasts, projects such as PROMICE, operated by the Geological Survey of Greenland and Denmark, or interdisciplinary initiatives on the fjords of Tasiilaq (Ammassalik) and Qaanaaq document the evolution of ice, ecosystems, and societies. Greenland is thus both a geographic object and a planetary laboratory, where the geography of a warmer world is being invented in real time.

Conclusion: A Country of Ice in Motion

The geography of the country Greenland is neither a vast white expanse on a map nor the frozen image of an inhospitable territory. On the contrary, it is a collection of deeply contrasting spaces: a massive ice sheet sensitive to degrees of warming, deep fjords where nutrients rise from the bottom, entangled seas where polar and Atlantic waters meet, tundra margins where a few tree silhouettes persist, and narrow coastal strips where cities, villages, and infrastructure are concentrated.

Good to know:

Greenland’s geography, shaped by currents, glaciers, polynyas, plateaus, and valleys, is undergoing profound transformation. The ice sheet is losing hundreds of billions of tons each year, sea ice is retreating, and Atlantic waters are penetrating the fjords. It is no longer a fixed datum but a dynamic process that scientists, residents, and policymakers are trying to understand and manage.

In the coming decades, the country’s physical contours—its coastlines, seas, glaciers—will continue to evolve. But it is the permanence of certain structures—the archaic bedrock of Isua, the giant fjords of Scoresby or Disko, the silhouette of Gunnbjørn Fjeld—that will remind us that, beneath the moving ice, Greenland remains first and foremost a territory, with its own logic, its extremes, and its deep geographic coherence.

About the author
Cyril Jarnias

Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.

On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.

Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.

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