Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Turkmenistan is neither like relocating to another Muslim country nor a simple assignment in a former Soviet republic. It means entering a highly conservative society, deeply marked by its nomadic heritage, Islam, tribal structure… and one of the world’s most authoritarian regimes. For an expatriate, the main difficulty is not so much the language or climate, but understanding these codes, these “unwritten rules” that govern appearance, gender relations, professional life, religion, and even mundane daily gestures.
This article is based on documented research to offer a practical guide on cultural differences. It details what to expect, what is advisable to do, and, most importantly, which behaviors are best avoided.
A Highly Controlled Country, a Heavily Codified Society
Turkmenistan is described by many sources as one of the world’s most corrupt and authoritarian states. The political system is based on an extremely centralized presidential regime, marked by omnipresent leadership figures and a press entirely under public control. Almost all television channels and newspapers are state-owned, and the few private media outlets must obtain a public license and broadcast a positive image of the authorities.
This strong verticality is felt even in the most ordinary aspects of life: physical appearance, manner of getting around, internet usage, social relations. Criticizing the authorities in public is unthinkable for most residents. Known opponents end up in prison or psychiatric hospitals. Political humor circulates mainly in the form of unofficial jokes.
For an expatriate, it is crucial to understand that freedom of expression as understood in Europe or North America does not exist in all contexts. It is strongly discouraged to comment on local politics, even if your local counterparts sometimes allow themselves veiled criticisms. A single word deemed inappropriate can be enough to create serious problems for your local contacts.
An Authoritarianism That Extends to Appearance
Social control targets not only ideas but also the body. The authorities multiply informal directives, relayed by public institutions, not always based on written law:
– directives require unmarried women in Ashgabat to wear a yellow headscarf at work;
– married women must, in certain services, wear a yellow dress;
– non-compliance with these color codes can lead to outright dismissal.
In the past, other aesthetic rules have been imposed, mainly targeting women: prohibition of certain makeup, hair dyed blonde, dresses considered too tight. More recently, several sources report:
A de facto ban on “too tight” women’s clothing, prohibition of hair coloring, fake nails and eyelashes, as well as a ban on certain surgeries and aesthetic procedures like breast implants, lip injections, and eyebrow microblading.
These measures are not mere “recommendations”: police raids have taken place in beauty salons, dozens of women have been dismissed (flight attendants, railway employees…) because they allegedly underwent these procedures. Fines can reach the equivalent of half an average monthly salary.
Men are not spared: a near-prohibition of beards exists for young men, a legacy of past decisions where beards were proscribed. Certain gestures perceived as linked to religiosity can be closely monitored.
For an expatriate, this means that the scope for stylistic freedom, especially for women, is very restricted in the public sphere, particularly if one works in the state sector. Even in the private sector, imitating a very Western style (heavy makeup, very fitted clothes) can attract scrutiny or remarks.
Social Norms: Conservatism, Honor, and Hospitality
Behind this political control, Turkmen society itself is very conservative. Three main pillars structure social life: family, honor, and hospitality.
The Family, the Core of Society
The extended family remains the central unit, especially outside major cities. Households often have more than five children, with several generations living under the same roof or in the same cluster of houses around a courtyard. Kinship, clan, and tribal ties continue to play a major role, especially for marriages, particularly in rural areas.
Respecting one’s parents and, more broadly, one’s elders, is not just a saying: it is a moral imperative. Proverbs hammer home the idea that parents are “priceless” and that divine blessing depends on the happiness of the father and mother. Placing parents in a retirement home is almost unthinkable and would be very poorly viewed socially.
For an expatriate, it is important to avoid any criticism of the local family model, not to show loud surprise at intergenerational cohabitation, and to refrain from asking insistent questions about intimate topics like fertility or married life. Conversely, showing respectful interest in your counterpart’s family is very well received.
Honor and Reputation, a Group Affair
The individual is strongly defined by the reputation of their family, clan, and nation. The concept of honor is omnipresent: “My honor is the honor of my family, my nation, my people,” says a proverb. This results in:
– a very clear rejection of behaviors deemed “frivolous” (garulousness, malicious gossip, cowardice);
– a valorization of sincerity, keeping one’s word, and a sense of duty.
In work interactions, it is essential to avoid making a counterpart lose face, for example by directly contradicting them in public. Any direct challenge can be perceived as a humiliation and risk breaking the relationship.
A Codified and Sacred Hospitality
Hospitality is not a tourist cliché; it is a true code of honor. A proverb sums up the idea: “Every guest is sent by Allah.” Historically, in the desert, refusing hospitality could condemn a traveler. Even today, refusing a meal, bread, or tea offered can be perceived as an insult.
When invited:
– remove your shoes when entering the house;
– bring a small gift (sweets, fruits, chocolates, an item from your country);
– accept the tea (çay), served in small bowls, and let the head of the household propose starting the meal;
– praise the quality of the meal, thank profusely.
The tablecloth or fabric on which food is placed is considered sacred: stepping on it is a sin, as is trampling on bread or salt, seen as a harbinger of misfortune.
Gender Roles and the Place of Women: Between Tradition, Law, and Control
Understanding gender norms is essential to avoid misunderstandings, both in private and professional life.
Traditionally Distinct Roles
Historically, the Turkmen family is patriarchal. The man is the head of the family, responsible for heavy labor, herds, fields, and machinery. The woman is associated with the home, child-rearing, but also with highly developed skills: carpet weaving, embroidery, preparation of ritual meals. This does not mean that, contrary to some clichés about Muslim societies, Turkmen women never widely practiced full veiling or strict seclusion in the home.
Although Russian legislation guarantees equal rights between women and men (access to employment, loans, and equal pay), the reality is different. Historically numerous in the health, education, and service sectors since the Soviet era, women today face hiring discrimination, particularly due to employers’ fears about maternity. They also remain underrepresented in senior management positions in large public enterprises.
Control of Appearance and Movement
The recent restrictions affecting women’s appearance go far beyond mere questions of religious modesty. They outline a tolerated femininity: lightly made-up, dressed loosely, without modern bodily transformations, often associated with imposed colors in the public sector. Sanctions (fines, dismissals, police raids in beauty salons) remind us that these are quasi-police rules.
Similarly, women’s mobility opportunities are limited:
In some regions, women face de facto prohibitions, such as not being able to sit in the front of taxis, and obligations for drivers to prove a family relationship under penalty of fine. One province even prohibits picking up female passengers after 8 p.m. Furthermore, administrative obstacles make driving a car very difficult for women, without any law explicitly prohibiting it.
For a female expatriate, this means preparing for a reduction in freedom of movement compared to other countries. In practice, many foreign women circumvent these constraints by traveling with drivers known to their organization, or in groups.
Sexuality, Mixed-Gender Relations, and Taboos
Relations between men and women are strictly regulated:
– public displays of affection beyond holding hands are frowned upon;
– sexuality outside marriage is taboo, and the law explicitly prohibits a Turkmen woman from having a sexual relationship with a foreigner;
– offering gifts or benefits to a local woman in expectation of a relationship can result in a fine and expulsion for the foreigner.
Male homosexuality is criminally penalized, punishable by imprisonment, and generally socially condemned. For LGBTQ+ expatriates, the situation is extremely delicate: it is prudent to strictly compartmentalize private life and local social life.
Appearance, Dress Codes, and the Symbolism of Clothing
In a country where the state decides the color of civil servants’ dresses and where beards can be proscribed, clothing is anything but trivial. But it also reflects a rich culture, inherited from nomadic life.
Turkmenistan, the Most Conservative Country in Central Asia Regarding Dress
Those familiar with the region point out that, compared to cities like Bishkek or Almaty where Western clothing is common, Turkmenistan is noticeably stricter. For foreigners, the unofficial rule is modesty:
– for women: long dresses or skirts, loose trousers, covered shoulders and arms, avoid low necklines;
– for men: long trousers, shirts or polos; shorts are considered inappropriate outside very private or sports contexts.
In mosques and holy places, it is imperative to respect specific attire: women must cover their heads, everyone must have their legs and arms covered, and shoes must be removed.
The Richness of Traditional Costume
Alongside these constraints, Turkmen clothing culture is of great richness:
– women traditionally wear a long dress (koynek) down to the ankles, often made of silk or velvet in burgundy, deep blue, or green, with very fine embroidery; they wear narrow, ankle-embroidered trousers (balak) underneath;
– men in traditional attire wear wide trousers, a white shirt, and especially the tall sheepskin hat, the telpek, whose color can indicate social status; they put on top a ceremonial robe (don or chakmen), known elsewhere as chapan.
Kyrgyz women’s headdresses, like the bride’s high kalpak or the headscarf (yalyk), are social markers. Married women sometimes wore a ring-shaped crown whose height increased with each birth. Jewelry made of silver, adorned with stones and stylized animal or insect motifs, served both as protective amulets and indicators of family status.
This symbolic dimension extends to the color of dresses according to age: dark fabric embroidered with bright flowers for young girls (beauty, fertility), yellow for middle-aged women (sun, autumn, strength, longevity), white for elderly women (transmission, place left for the next generations).
For an expatriate, occasionally adopting traditional clothing elements during ceremonies (a headdress, a locally purchased chapan-style robe) is often very well received, provided it is done with decency and respect, not as a costume.
Table – Some Clothing Elements and Their Meaning
| Clothing Element | Worn by | Meaning / Main Context |
|---|---|---|
| Koynek (long dress) | Woman | Daily/traditional attire, modesty, identity |
| Balak (trousers) | Both | Traditional undergarment, modesty, comfort |
| Telpek (fur hat) | Man | Status, masculinity, nomadic heritage |
| Yalyk / yaglyk (headscarf) | Woman | Sign of respect, sometimes marital status |
| Don / chakmen (robe) | Man | Ceremonies, distinction, former social rank |
| Silver jewelry | Woman | Amulet, protection against the evil eye, family status |
Communication, Gestures, and Language: What Isn’t Said with Words
Turkmenistan belongs to what specialists call a “high-context culture”: many things are conveyed through the unsaid, implications, tone, and gestures. An expatriate used to direct frankness will have to learn to read between the lines.
Saying “No” Without Saying It
Saying no directly is perceived as brutal, even humiliating. People avoid giving a clear “no” in response, especially to a request from a superior or a guest. Instead, vague expressions are used: “It will be difficult,” “We’ll see,” “Perhaps later.” For the foreigner, insisting on getting a clear “yes” can put your counterpart in an impossible position, caught between the desire to please you and the real impossibility of doing so.
It is essential to know how to decode indirect signals by observing body language and context. Conversely, to express your own refusals, favor tact by explaining your reasons at length rather than using a simple, blunt “no.”
Gestures and Distance Management
Certain gestures commonplace elsewhere can be offensive here or in neighboring cultures:
– pointing at someone with your finger is rude: indicate with an open hand;
– showing the sole of your foot towards others is disrespectful;
– standing with hands on hips can seem aggressive;
– in the broader Muslim space, some Western gestures (thumbs up, “OK” sign made with fingers) sometimes have vulgar connotations; it’s better to first observe local gestures.
Interpersonal distance is variable: it is relatively small between friends, but physical contact with a person of the opposite sex outside the family is to be avoided. For greetings, a firm handshake is the rule between men. With a woman, it is appropriate to wait for her to extend her hand first; if she does not, a verbal greeting or the gesture of the hand over the heart are suitable alternatives.
Importance of Language
Turkmen is the official language, but Russian remains widely used in cities, especially in Ashgabat and Türkmenbaşy, among educated circles and in business. In meetings, it is common for Turkmen counterparts to speak among themselves in Russian, while using an interpreter for English.
A few words of Turkmen or Russian are often enough to break the ice. Linguistic efforts, even minimal, are highly appreciated. But it is illusory to think you can work seriously without a competent interpreter if you master neither Turkmen nor Russian.
Religion: A Muslim Majority in a Highly Controlling Secular State
It is estimated that over 90% of the population identifies as Muslim, predominantly Sunni Hanafi. Yet, the state constitutionally defines itself as secular and exercises tight control over all religious activity.
An Islam Tinged with Pre-Islamic Traditions
Turkmen Islam has been largely shaped by Sufism and earlier practices: ancestor worship, belief in the evil eye, pilgrimages to tombs of saints or local figures, fertility rites. The concept of “Turkmen Islam” thus blends prayer, respect for caliphs, but also veneration of “sacred” lineages (övlat), offerings to certain trees or places, rituals around birth, marriage, and death.
Ramadan is observed, as are the major Eid holidays, but practice varies greatly by region, age, and social background. Some urban youth today appear more religious than part of the Soviet generation, also influenced by Turkish television programs and travel to Turkey.
Religious Observance in Post-Soviet Central Asia
A Secular State… But Not Neutral
On paper, freedom of religion is guaranteed. In practice, all religious activity is regulated:
In Turkmenistan, the exercise of worship is strictly regulated. Religious communities must be registered with the Ministry of Justice with a minimum number of adherents. The state appoints and dismisses religious leaders, controls the import and distribution of all religious literature (including the Quran and the Bible), prohibits missionary activities, and makes unregistered worship illegal.
Islam is also used as a tool for legitimization by the authorities: official pilgrimages, grand monumental mosques built by the state, highly publicized prayers by leaders, pardoning of prisoners on sacred nights and holidays. At the same time, any religious expression perceived as autonomous or inspired from abroad is quickly labeled “extremism” and repressed.
For an expatriate, caution is essential: avoid proselytism, do not distribute religious literature, keep your distance from any group perceived as unregistered. If you are a believer, practice discreetly, strictly respecting local legislation.
Table – Religious Landscape (Estimates)
| Religious Group | Estimated Share of Population | Main Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| Muslims (mainly Sunnis) | 89–95% | Practice varies greatly, strong Sufi and local dimension |
| Russian Orthodox | 6–9% | 12 churches, concentrated in cities |
| Other Christians, Baha’is, etc. | < 1% | Small and highly monitored communities |
| Jews | ~200–300 people | Mainly in Ashgabat and Türkmenabat, no synagogue |
Work and Business: Hierarchy, Slowness, and the Importance of Trust
The world of work in Turkmenistan is both state-dominated and relationship-based. Hierarchy is very pronounced, procedures slow, and personal trust often more decisive than the written contract.
Hierarchy and Respect for Authority
Organizations reflect society: pyramidal structure, decisions from the top, little room for challenge. Addressing a superior directly, bypassing the chain of command, can be very poorly perceived.
During meetings:
In a professional or formal setting, it is customary to greet the oldest person or the one with the highest hierarchical rank first. It is preferable to use titles and last names rather than first names. Furthermore, it is advisable to avoid contradicting a supervisor in the presence of their subordinates.
Publicly questioning a decision can be perceived as an affront. It is better to propose adjustments or questions in private.
Slow and Informal Negotiations
The conclusion of a contract, especially with public entities, takes time and repeated visits. Initial meetings often serve to get to know each other, test the reliability and loyalty of the partner more than to discuss figures and clauses. The decisive signature rarely happens without validation at the presidential level for major deals.
During meetings, the absence of note-taking by your Turkmen counterparts does not indicate a lack of attention. It is recommended to leave them a translated business card and provide a written summary afterward. Although the written word is important, the personal relationship established is equally, if not more, crucial.
Dress, Alcohol, and Smoking in the Professional World
Business attire must remain very conservative: dark suits, shirt and tie for men, sober attire covering arms and legs for women. Appearance is judged immediately.
Business meals often include hard alcohol (vodka, cognac). Refusing a toast abruptly can offend the host. A strategy is to accept symbolically, drink very moderately, or invoke health reasons if necessary. Smoking is very common; if you smoke, it is customary to offer a cigarette to others and ask for permission before lighting up.
Table – Professional Benchmarks for Expatriates
| Aspect | Local Norm | Practical Advice for Expatriates |
|---|---|---|
| Punctuality | Flexible on the local side, strict on the foreign side | Arrive on time, anticipate possible delays from others |
| Communication | Indirect, avoids saying “no” | Phrase disagreements diplomatically |
| Decision-making | Very hierarchical | Identify the real decision-maker, be patient |
| Contracts | Important but not everything | Cultivate the relationship as much as the legal text |
| Gifts | Appreciated if modest | Offer pens, chocolates, souvenirs; avoid alcohol |
Daily Life: Poverty, Services, and Material Constraints
Behind the marble façades of Ashgabat or the hotels of the Avaza resort, the material reality is harsh for a large part of the population. The average income is well below that of neighboring Kazakhstan, poverty is marked outside urban showcases, and over 60% of the population is said to lack stable employment. The country is going through a chronic economic crisis: food shortages, inflation, low wages.
For expatriates, certain material advantages exist (accommodation covered, access to strong foreign currency), but daily life remains constrained:
The Turkmen manat is difficult to convert; favor recent, good condition U.S. dollars. Credit card payments are rarely accepted and ATMs are scarce. Electricity and gas are generally free for residents, but outages and malfunctions can occur. Internet connection is slow, expensive, and heavily censored: many websites and social networks are blocked, and VPN use is restricted.
Getting around is not always simple: roads in poor condition, hazardous driving, numerous police checkpoints on roads with risk of arbitrary fines. At night, travel outside cities is not recommended. It is common to employ a local driver, relatively inexpensive, rather than driving yourself.
Festivals, Arts, Carpets, and Horses: The Bright Face of Culture
Beyond the constraints, the expatriate also discovers a country of great cultural richness.
Festivals and Symbolic Days
The year is punctuated by festivals that are national, religious, and thematic:
Discover the main celebrations that shape the cultural and spiritual life of Turkmenistan, a rich blend of historical heritage, nomadic traditions, and national pride.
A Persian and Zoroastrian heritage celebrated with symbolic dishes, family visits, and street carnivals.
Eid al‑Fitr and Eid al‑Adha, marked by prayers, charity, and large community meals.
Celebrates the Akhal‑Teke breed with races, trick riding, and an approximately 60-kilometer horse marathon.
Highlights a millennia-old art where each pattern tells the story of a clan or lineage.
Official tribute to the country’s hundreds of melon varieties, with giant exhibitions, competitions, and prizes for growers.
These celebrations offer a glimpse of what constitutes national pride: horses, carpets, fruit, the proclaimed neutrality, and historical continuity.
Carpets, Poetry, Music
Turkmen carpets, sometimes mistakenly called “Bukhara rugs” in the West, are everywhere: on floors, walls, in yurts as in apartments. The eight-pointed star motifs, which have become a national symbol, distinguish tribes and families.
Poetry holds a unique place: figures such as Magtymguly Pyragy or Mämmetweli Kemine are celebrated as pillars of identity. Official days are even dedicated to them. The oral tradition of songs and recitation remains very much alive at weddings and festivals.
Turkmen music blends instruments like the dutar (two-stringed lute) and the dap (tambourine), with collective dances like Kushtdepti. At large weddings, bards (bakhshi) sing and tell stories, perpetuating an ancient narrative tradition.
For an expatriate, participating in these festivals, listening to poetry recited by locals, visiting carpet workshops or dedicated museums is a powerful way to enter the “narrative” the country produces about itself.
Photography, Security, and Red Lines for Foreigners
One of the most unsettling differences for expatriates is the number of legal gray areas and “sensitive subjects” that are not necessarily clearly announced.
Photography Under Surveillance
It is forbidden to photograph a wide range of infrastructure: airports, military sites, government buildings, police stations, presidential palace. On-site, guards may order you not to take photos, or even force you to delete pictures.
Even with people, caution is required: always ask for permission before photographing, especially women and children. In rural areas, where mistrust is stronger, refusal is frequent.
Alcohol, Drugs, and Public Space
Drinking alcohol in parks, on the beach, in train stations or public buildings is illegal and punishable by fine. Illegal drugs result in heavy prison sentences. Smoking outside designated areas is also penalized, although in practice many men smoke heavily.
As police identity checks are frequent, it is recommended to always carry your passport (or at least a copy) and your visa with you.
Sexuality, Gender, and Criminal Law
Beyond the criminalization of male homosexual relations, the law strictly regulates relations between Turkmen women and foreigners, considering such ties as potentially dishonorable for the woman and her family. The authorities can impose fines, expulsions, or even detentions.
For expatriates, a simple rule applies: avoid entering into romantic relationships with local people without fully measuring the risks for them and for you. And, in any case, never display physical affection in public.
Conclusion: Accepting Opacity, Investing in Human Relationships
Expatriating to Turkmenistan means accepting a strong dose of opacity and contradiction: a country where you are welcomed with hot tea and sacred bread, while your photos and speech are monitored; where poetry and carpets are celebrated, while the internet is censored and color codes are imposed on civil servants’ dresses; where international neutrality is proclaimed, while strictly locking out any foreign influence deemed undesirable.
For an expatriate, three attitudes are decisive:
Three principles are essential for successfully navigating a foreign professional environment. First, caution: avoid testing political limits, scrupulously respect official and unofficial restrictions, and always inquire before any unusual initiative. Second, humility: it is crucial to admit that you do not master all the codes, to observe attentively, and to discreetly ask local colleagues what is appropriate. Third, relational investment: this involves accepting invitations, getting to know families, showing respect for elders, religion, and national symbols, and patiently building bonds of trust.
In return, despite shortages, censorship, and constraints, Turkmenistan offers those who take the time to understand it a dense cultural universe: ritualized hospitality, the art of carpets and horses, plov and melon cuisine, spring festivals and Eid prayers, Sufi poetry and desert music. A universe that does not reveal itself on the surface, but which can make the expatriate experience both demanding and profoundly memorable.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
