Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to the Solomon Islands means landing on nearly a thousand islands surrounded by an ocean of an almost unreal blue, in a country where the sea feeds both plates and the collective imagination. For an expatriate, the local cuisine is one of the most direct gateways to the culture, the way of life, and human relationships. Here, eating isn’t just about nourishment: it’s participating in kastom, the foundation of customs that structures society, and in the wantok solidarity system, where what is fished and cultivated is shared.
This comprehensive guide is designed for expatriates settling long-term. It covers discovering local products, explaining traditional dishes, cultural table manners, recommendations for good places to eat, and advice for healthy and economical eating.
Understanding the Solomon Islands Culinary Landscape
The archipelago is located in Melanesia, east of Papua New Guinea, with over 900 inhabited or uninhabited islands. This fragmented geography largely explains the culinary diversity: nearly every province, lagoon, or village has its own recipe variations, staple products, and fishing or farming techniques.
Over 80% of Solomon Islanders practice small-scale fishing or agriculture.
Over more than 5,000 years of human occupation, this Melanesian base has absorbed other influences. The Spanish introduced livestock; Asian and Indian merchants and laborers brought spices, new varieties of vegetables and fruit; and then British colonization left its mark on certain habits (tea, pastries, dishes based on flour and rice). The result: a deeply local cuisine that doesn’t hesitate to marry marinated raw fish with coconut milk curry, or traditional taro with imported rice.
The Ingredients that Structure the Solomon Islander Plate
To get to know the local gastronomy, you first need to understand the main landmarks of the “ingredient map.” Very quickly, you’ll notice that almost all meals revolve around a few product families.
The Sea as a Daily Pantry
Fish constitutes the main source of protein and the everyday “meat.” Species vary by area and season, but some are constantly seen on market stalls.
| Product Category | Common Examples |
|---|---|
| Tuna & Pelagics | Yellowfin tuna, skipjack (bonito/Island bonito), dogtooth tuna, wahoo |
| Reef Fish | Coral trout, red bass, giant trevally, rosy jobfish |
| Other Fish | Spanish mackerel, mahi-mahi, marlin, sailfish |
| Seafood | Lobster, prawns, crabs (including coconut crab), giant clams, various shellfish |
In coastal areas, subsistence fishing remains central. Fish is smoked with coconut shells, sun-dried, or cooked over coals or steamed in banana leaves. In towns, fresh fish arrives daily at the central market or in small neighborhood markets, often kept in simple ice boxes or thanks to the market’s “ice house.”
For an expatriate, the richness of marine resources implies a responsibility. Pressure on stocks is increasing with population growth and climate change. A responsible culinary gesture involves prioritizing well-utilized local fish and avoiding supporting illegal fishing or destructive methods like using dynamite or certain nets.
Roots, the Backbone of the Meal
In the Solomon Islands, the “starch” doesn’t first rhyme with rice, but with tubers and starchy fruits. They are filling, provide long-lasting energy, and structure every meal.
| Family | Main Products |
|---|---|
| Tubers | Taro, Xanthosoma taro, sweet potato (kumara), cassava, yam |
| Starchy Fruits | Ulu (breadfruit), plantain and cooking bananas |
| Others | Giant swamp taro, sometimes called puraka or kape depending on the area |
These roots are boiled, mashed, grated, sometimes fermented. They are used in iconic dishes like poi (fermented paste of taro or cassava) or cassava puddings cooked in banana leaves.
An Abundance of Tropical Fruits
In this tropical country, the list of fruits seems endless: papaya (called pawpaw), bananas of many varieties, mangoes, pineapples, guavas, watermelons, rambutans, citrus (oranges, mandarins, bush limes, Tahitian limes), soursop, mangosteen, jackfruit, not forgetting the ubiquitous coconut.
An interesting specificity for the waste-conscious expatriate: almost everything is used, at all stages of ripeness. Green papaya thus becomes the star of a fragrant curry, while ripe papaya is eaten for dessert or turned into juice. This “zero waste” food logic, very much linked to kastom, is a good guideline for adopting new habits.
The Mark of the Coconut Palm
It’s impossible to discuss the local cuisine without mentioning the coconut palm, the true “tree of life” of the archipelago. Its grated flesh yields coconut milk and cream, the base for most curries, soups, and stews. Its water, drunk fresh from the green nut, refreshes and is a great substitute for industrial drinks. Its oil, sometimes produced as “virgin coconut oil” by small village cooperatives, is used for cooking and also for cosmetics.
Leafy Greens and “Garden” Produce
A significant part of the plate consists of “greens”: sweet potato leaves, taro leaves, local cabbages, watercress, young pumpkin shoots, edible ferns, and the famous “slippery cabbage,” a very common leafy vegetable. At the Honiara market, many of these greens are simply grouped under the generic name “cabbage.”
In the Solomon Islands, nuts like ngali nuts (canarium) and cutnuts are harvested, often from existing trees rather than cultivated. They are traditionally eaten roasted or incorporated into various culinary preparations, illustrating a sustainable use of indigenous forest resources.
Finally, spices like chili, ginger, turmeric, or pepper, often historically brought by Asian and Indian influences, pair wonderfully with the mild and rich profile of coconut milk.
Must-Try Dishes: What to Taste to Understand the Country
For an expatriate, a few recipes serve as the culinary “basic vocabulary.” Knowing them not only helps you read menus better but also engage in conversation with colleagues or village neighbors.
Poi, Cassava Pudding, Laplap: The Starchy Heart of the Table
Poi is often presented as the unofficial national dish. Unlike the very liquid fermented taro-based Polynesian poi, the Solomon Islands version is a thicker paste, made from taro or cassava, sometimes lightly fermented, giving it a tangy note. It is often served with coconut cream, as an accompaniment to fish or meat dishes.
Cassava pudding is a preparation on the border of savory and sweet. It is made by grating cassava and often sweet potato, then mixing them with coconut milk and sometimes sugar. The whole thing is cooked wrapped in banana leaves. Depending on proportions and additions (like sugar or fruit), it can be served as a hearty main dish or as a dessert. An anti-waste variant, kara, reuses leftover grated cassava by adding corned-beef before steaming in leaves.
Laplap (or lap lap) is another Melanesian classic: a kind of “gratin” of grated roots (taro, yam, cassava), mixed with coconut milk, sometimes with fish or chicken, then cooked for a long time, wrapped in banana leaves, often in an earth oven.
Kokoda and Fish in Coconut Milk: The Sea on the Plate
It’s hard to live in the Solomon Islands without quickly adopting kokoda, the local ceviche made with raw fish (often tuna or reef fish), marinated in lime juice then bound with a generous amount of coconut milk. Tomatoes, onions, and sometimes chili are added. Served very cold, it’s probably one of the most appreciated dishes by visitors and locals alike.
Around this flagship dish, a myriad of coconut milk fish curry variants mark daily life: tuna curry, green papaya curry, or simple grilled fillets served with a coconut-lime sauce.
Palusami, Raro, Faikakai: The Strength of Leaves
Taro leaves aren’t just for wrapping dishes. They also form the base of recipes with a strong identity. Palusami is a good example: packets of taro leaves enclosing coconut cream, onions, garlic, sometimes fish or meat, then gently steamed or cooked in an earth oven. The final texture is melt-in-the-mouth, the coconut sauce very fragrant.
Discover two emblematic culinary specialties of the archipelago, based on local products like taro and coconut milk.
A dish made from taro leaves cooked in coconut milk with onions, garlic, and sometimes accompanied by meat or fish.
Steamed dumplings or ravioli, filled with fish or meat, often served during festive meals.
Snacks, Sides, and Sweets
Alongside main dishes, Solomon Islands cuisine is full of small snacks you’ll encounter at the market or street barbecues: taro chips, fried plantains, cassava fritters, small sweet cassava cakes with coconut milk. Desserts generally remain simple: tuluk (mashed ripe banana with coconut milk and sugar), loli (sticky dessert made from cassava and coconut), or simple plates of fresh fruit.
To get your bearings, it can be useful to keep a few key preparations and their dominant ingredients in mind.
| Dish / Preparation | Key Ingredients | Main Cooking Method |
|---|---|---|
| Poi | Taro or cassava, water, sometimes fermentation, coconut milk | Boiled then pounded, slightly fermented |
| Cassava pudding | Grated cassava, sweet potato, coconut milk, sugar (optional) | Cooked in banana leaves |
| Laplap | Grated taro/cassava/yam, coconut milk, meat or fish | Cooked in leaves, earth oven |
| Kokoda | Raw fish, lime, coconut milk, raw vegetables | Cold marinade |
| Palusami | Taro leaves, coconut cream, onion, garlic, fish/meat | Steamed or earth oven |
| Kara | Grated cassava (leftovers), corned-beef, banana leaves | Steamed |
How and Where to Eat: From Market to Restaurants
As an expatriate, your daily food landscape will be shaped as much by your personal habits (home cooking, regular outings) as by where you live (Honiara, Gizo, a more isolated village, a resort).
Honiara Central Market: The Beating Heart of Supply
The central market in Honiara, often described as the “heart” of the capital, is the country’s largest fresh produce market. It is located on Mendana Avenue, by the water, with its own sea access. You’ll find fish, mangrove crabs, fruit, vegetables, nuts, coconuts, but also a few stalls selling cooked dishes at low prices.
The figures show its importance: about 1,000 vendors, nearly 83% of whom are women, and a large majority sell their own produce. Products come from east and west Guadalcanal, but also from Malaita, Savo, or nearby islands. For capital residents, the market feeds up to 90% of the local population.
As an expatriate, going there early in the morning lets you enjoy the freshest products and avoid crowds and heat. On Friday and especially Saturday, the place turns into a hive: forests of colorful stalls, still-shiny fish, piles of coconuts, papayas, bundles of local “cabbage,” but also handicrafts and cut flowers.
A few habits to adopt quickly:
– Come with small bills, as vendors rarely have much change;
– Bring your own bags;
– Choose the busiest stalls, an indicator of freshness and quick product turnover;
– Avoid touching products without the vendor’s consent, especially fish.
Prices are generally considered fair and aggressive bargaining is frowned upon. This is not a tourist market, but a nerve center of the urban economy.
Other Markets and “Kai Bars”
Outside Honiara, more modestly sized markets also structure local supply, in Gizo, Auki, or Noro, for example. The same logic applies: local production, strong presence of women, abundance of roots, fruit, and fish.
Besides markets, “kai bars” — small local eateries — offer simple, cheap meals: fried fish with rice, chicken curry, vegetable stew with coconut. They don’t always have strict hours, which can surprise an expatriate used to highly structured dining. It’s often wise to check opening hours, especially outside major towns.
Along roadsides and beaches in Polynesia, it’s common to find improvised barbecues grilling fish or meat skewers. These dishes are often accompanied by cassava or taro, and a fresh coconut opened on the spot for customers.
Restaurants, Cafés, and Hotels
In more touristy areas or the capital, the range widens. Hotels and resorts often offer very hearty morning buffets, which can easily cover breakfast and sometimes even lunch. Upscale restaurants, often attached to hotel complexes, serve fusion cuisine mixing local products (tuna, lobster, coconut) and international techniques (Japanese, French, Chinese, European).
There are also more modest cafés and restaurants, some in Honiara’s Chinatown, where Asian influences are very present: fried rice, noodles, curries, fish in sauce, etc. Many of these establishments nevertheless highlight fresh Solomon Islands ingredients, and a “farm-to-table” or “sea-to-table” trend, with seasonal products from local fisheries or gardens, is developing.
It’s useful to remember that tipping is not a local custom. Staff do not expect tips, although a small gesture can be appreciated in very touristy places. On the other hand, politeness, patience, and modest dress (especially outside complexes frequented by foreigners) are the norm.
Cooking at Home: Healthy, Local, and Economical
For most expatriates, cooking at home quickly becomes the best option to both control your budget, better manage the nutritional quality of meals, and immerse yourself in the local food system.
In cities, many expatriate accommodations have a private or shared kitchen. Open markets provide for the purchase of fresh produce, while supermarkets sell rice, flour, canned goods, oils, imported products (including many ultra-processed products: instant noodles, sweet snacks, etc.).
For a diet adapted to the local environment, structure your meals around three elements: a local starch (taro, cassava, sweet potato, or breadfruit), vegetables (especially leafy greens), and a source of local protein (fish, eggs, or local chicken). Enhance the whole with local products like coconut milk, lime, herbs, and spices to boost flavors.
Cost, Budget, and Trade-offs
Studies on local markets show that urban residents spend a very large share of their income on food, especially on imported grains (rice, flour). For an expatriate, the temptation may be strong to reproduce a very “Western” diet based on bread, pasta, and rice, but that is expensive and isn’t aligned with the sustainability logic increasingly promoted by local authorities and NGOs.
The cost of a typical local meal in the Solomon Islands, including a coconut, a grilled fish, and cooked roots, can be less than 30 SBD.
A simple table allows you to visualize the difference between the main categories of dining options.
| Meal Option | Main Characteristics | Budget Impact |
|---|---|---|
| Street food / kai bar | Fried fish, curries, rice, roots. Simple, hearty. | Very affordable |
| Market meal (cooked food stalls) | Menus based on fish/roots, local drinks (coconut, juice) | Very affordable |
| “International” restaurants | European or Asian-inspired cuisine, imported ingredients | Significantly more expensive |
| Home cooking with local products | Market purchases, personal preparation | Most economical in the medium term |
| Hotel or resort buffet | Great variety, breakfast often very rich | Included or relatively expensive, depending on contract |
For a long-term expatriate, the ideal is often a mix: daily home cooking with market products, complemented by regular visits to kai bars, and occasionally a more sophisticated restaurant for special occasions.
Drinks: Between Tradition, Freshness, and Caution
The world of drinks also reflects the contrasts between ancestral practices, imported industrial products, and contemporary creations.
The healthiest and simplest drink remains fresh coconut water, drunk straight from the green nut, ubiquitous in markets. Fruit juices made from mango, pineapple, passion fruit, soursop complement the range of local non-alcoholic drinks, to which are added coconut milks and creams used in homemade smoothies.
The essential local beer is Solbrew, available in several variants like Lager, Pacific Ale, and Island Lager. It is found in bars, restaurants, and hotels.
Two traditional drinks, however, deserve particular attention from expatriates: kava, an infusion of roots from a plant with relaxing properties, and kwaso, a homemade alcohol often very strong and poorly regulated. Authorities and health professionals recommend being particularly careful with these drinks, due to their potency and potential risks for the liver or safety (rapid intoxication).
At the Table: Codes, Rituals, and Cultural Etiquette
In the Solomon Islands, the meal is much more than a simple nutritional act. It is part of social bonding, hierarchy, and spirituality. For an expatriate, respecting these codes is essential to avoid unintentionally offending your hosts.
Accepting and tasting a dish offered to you is a sign of respect and appreciation for hospitality. Refusing can be perceived as an offense. It’s advisable to try at least a small portion and express your gratitude, even in case of a surprising flavor.
Before sitting down to eat, it is customary to wash your hands; in some contexts, a bowl of water is offered during or after the meal. In many rural areas, people still eat with their fingers rather than utensils, especially for traditional dishes. It is good manners to use only the right hand, the left historically being associated with intimate hygiene. Watching other diners and imitating their gestures remains the best way to proceed.
Meals often begin with a prayer. It is polite to wait until everyone is served and the host gives the signal to start. In some families, men are served first and women do the serving, a local practice that is best understood and respected as an expatriate, choosing your interventions with discernment.
Finally, modest dress is important, especially in villages or religious contexts: covered shoulders and knees are a good basic rule. Public displays of affection remain unusual.
Health, Diet, and “Returning to Roots” with Local Products
The Solomon Islands, like many Pacific countries, are going through a health crisis linked to the rapid increase in consumption of imported ultra-processed foods: refined rice, white flour, instant noodles, sugary drinks. These dietary changes are associated with a sharp rise in non-communicable diseases: obesity, diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, but also childhood malnutrition.
Given the prevalence of diet-related diseases, it is recommended to adopt a more traditional diet, centered on local products like fish, fruit, leafy greens, and roots. This advice is particularly important for expatriates, who often have a higher budget but might, for convenience, turn to a more expensive and less healthy Western diet. Organizations like the Kastom Gaden Association, international NGOs, and health authorities support this approach.
Integrating more local products into your daily diet isn’t just “eating local,” it’s also contributing to the sustainability of the food system. The agricultural sector supports over 85% of the rural economy, and sales of fish, food crops, and handicrafts represent over 40% of many households’ income. Every plate composed of local fish, tubers, and seasonal vegetables supports this economic fabric.
Some Concrete Steps for a Healthier Daily Life
Without making lists, a balanced approach can be summarized in a few principles: prioritize fresh fish and leafy greens over cheap imported meats, limit sugary drinks in favor of water and coconut water, make local roots the energy base instead of rice, and take advantage of the abundance of fruit for desserts rather than industrial biscuits and cakes.
Urban markets are dominated 80–90% by female vendors, who are crucial for access to fresh produce and women’s economic empowerment.
Immersive Experiences: Cooking, Villages, and Fishing
For an expatriate, local gastronomy is discovered not only on the plate or in the kitchen, but also at production sites and in daily gestures.
In the Seghe region, operators organize immersive “foodie” adventures. Participants go to fetch fresh fish and local garden produce, then learn to prepare contemporary Solomon Islander fusion recipes. This type of homestay allows sharing life with a family, participating in meal preparation, and discovering traditional techniques like earth ovens (umu) or smoking fish with coconut shells.
Recreational fishing is also a privileged gateway: in places like Seghe, Suavanao, Ramata, Munda, or Kagau, it’s possible to go out to sea, then cook your catch the same day with a local family or a cook. You then grasp the deep connection between communities and their lagoon, but also the concerns related to declining fish stocks on some reefs, due to human pressure and climate change.
Safety, Hygiene, and Some Realities to Keep in Mind
As everywhere, eating in a country you don’t know implies some precautions. At markets or street stalls, it’s better to favor very busy stalls, where food doesn’t sit at room temperature for long. Seafood should be well cooked if you have doubts about the cold chain; the delicious coconut milk ceviche kokoda should be reserved for trusted places where fish turnover is visible.
The market atmosphere can be chaotic, noisy, and sometimes dirty (lack of public toilets, organic waste, slippery floors stained with betel nut juice). It’s advisable to keep personal belongings close, move with purpose without lingering, and adopt discreet attire.
Finally, the issue of drinking water remains important. Many travelers and expatriates choose to use filtering water bottles rather than buying bottled water, to limit plastic waste. In any case, to avoid digestive infections, it’s sensible to drink water you know is treated, wash your hands well, and prefer fruit you can peel yourself.
Gastronomy and “Kastom”: Beyond Taste
Over the weeks and months, what first appears as a set of exotic flavors reveals itself to be a true cultural grammar. The way poi or laplap is prepared, participation in big feasts with mountains of taro, roasted pigs, whole fish, the creative reuse of leftovers (cassava kara, papaya at all stages): all this tells of a worldview where the connection to the land, the sea, and the group takes precedence over the individual.
Participating in a festival like a fish festival or an event focused on traditional gardens (Kastom Gaden) reveals the symbolic importance of food in celebrations of Solomon Islander identity. Ceremonies, speeches, and food distributions there are as significant as the act of eating itself.
For an expatriate, gastronomy thus becomes less a folklore to consume than a language to learn. Learning a few words of Pijin to ask for a product at the market, sharing a plate of smoked fish with colleagues, accepting a tender coconut in a village, attempting to prepare a green papaya curry or a kokoda yourself using a neighbor’s advice: these are all small scenes that, put together, weave a form of belonging.
Prioritizing local seasonal products, frequenting markets, and taking an interest in the stories behind dishes allows the expatriate to support local economies, preserve a threatened culinary heritage, and experience a more authentic cultural immersion than through classic tourism.
In the Solomon Islands, gastronomy isn’t a backdrop: it’s a direct pathway to the real country, its challenges, its strengths, and its creativity. Those who take the time to discover it gain much more than a notebook of good addresses: they gain another way of inhabiting the archipelago.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
