Published on and written by Cyril Jarnias
Moving to Eritrea as an expatriate is not just a change of country; it’s entering a highly unique world: an ultra-controlled state, a close-knit and warm society, a developing economy, limited infrastructure, and a varied cost of living. This guide offers a concrete, no-nonsense overview of life on the ground to help you decide, prepare, and, if you take the plunge, succeed in your move.
Understanding the Country Before You Go
Eritrea, officially the State of Eritrea, is located in the Horn of Africa, on the shores of the Red Sea, between Sudan, Ethiopia, and Djibouti. Its coastline of over 1,300 km is entirely classified as a protected zone, a world first. The country has between 3.5 and 6 million inhabitants depending on sources, divided into nine recognized ethnic groups, predominantly Tigrinya and Tigre, with a mosaic of Afar, Saho, Bilen, Kunama, Nara, Rashaida, and other peoples.
Asmara, the capital (also called Asmera locally), is situated at over 2,300 meters (7,550 feet) above sea level. This city with a mild climate is the political and economic center of the country. It is renowned for its Italian modernist architecture, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It hosts the majority of services, expatriate jobs, international schools, and a relatively active social life.
Politically, the country has been led by the same president and the same single party since independence. The state apparatus tightly controls the media, telecommunications, and public life. National service is mandatory and can extend for many years, pushing part of the population into exile. Press freedom is, according to several organizations, among the most restricted in the world.
Within this highly structured context, society remains remarkably hospitable. The national motto “Hade Hizbi Hade Libi” (“One people, one heart”) reflects a strong collective identity. The sense of family, mutual aid, respect for elders, and welcoming of strangers shape daily life. For an expatriate, this translates into a socially warm atmosphere, but within a rigid political and administrative environment.
Cost of Living: A “Cheap” Country… But Not for Everyone
Available figures show a misleading reality. Officially, the average cost of living in Eritrea is about 2.17 times lower than the global average. The country ranks among the cheapest on the planet (near the bottom of the list out of 197 countries). But this observation does not apply in the same way for an expatriate seeking a certain comfort, a private internet connection, decent housing, and quality healthcare services.
Aggregated data reveals several spending profiles:
| Resident Profile (Global Data) | Estimated Monthly Expenses (USD, with rent) |
|---|---|
| Single person – “tight” budget | ≈ 635 |
| Single person – “comfortable / luxury” level | 2,780 |
| Couple – national average | 2,288.7 |
| Family of 4 – average level | 3,848.2 |
| Family of 4 – “tight” budget | ≈ 1,664.3 |
| Family of 4 – “comfortable / luxury” | 7,456.5 |
For Asmara specifically, other estimates give lower figures, largely weighted by local purchasing power: about $533 per month for a single person including housing, $1,268 for a family of four. But these figures assume a lifestyle close to local standards and modest housing.
The cost of living in France, including rent, is 36% lower than in the United States.
A key indicator to grasp reality: the estimated average net monthly salary after tax is between $112 and $120, which would only cover average expenses for 0.2 months. The cost of living is thus estimated at 4.7 to 4.8 times the average salary. For an expatriate paid by a foreign company, the situation is quite different, but this explains why certain imported goods, private services, or internet connections remain a “luxury” on the ground.
Finding Housing in Asmara: Rents, Purchasing, and the Reality of the Property Market
For an expatriate, Asmara and Massawa concentrate most of the housing options. Asmara, as the capital, remains the most likely base.
Rents vary significantly based on size, neighborhood, and level of comfort.
| Type of Housing (National / Asmara) | Approximate Monthly Rent (USD) |
|---|---|
| Furnished 45 m² Studio – “normal” neighborhood | ≈ 333 |
| Furnished 45 m² Studio – “expensive” neighborhood | ≈ 1,000 |
| 1-bedroom apartment city center (national average) | ≈ 475 |
| 1-bedroom apartment outside center (national average) | ≈ 400 |
| 3-bedroom apartment city center (national average) | ≈ 725 |
| 3-bedroom apartment outside center (national average) | ≈ 650 |
| Asmara – 1 bedroom very cheap | ≈ 148 |
| Asmara – 1 bedroom city center | ≈ 220 |
| Asmara – 3 bedrooms cheap | ≈ 274 |
| Asmara – 3 bedrooms city center | ≈ 400 |
The expatriate housing supply consists of large apartments in old buildings with high ceilings, individual houses in gated residential neighborhoods, and sometimes small cottages behind courtyard walls. Gardens are rare, and nuisances (red dust, noise between adjoining units, leaks during the rainy season) are not uncommon.
If your employer does not provide housing, plan for several months to find a suitable property. A temporary solution (hotel or serviced apartment like the Asmara Palace) is recommended for expatriates upon arrival.
Property purchase is possible but not well-documented. Indicative prices for Asmara:
| Type of Purchase in Asmara | Indicative Price |
|---|---|
| City center apartment – price per m² | ≈ 1,543 USD |
| House on the outskirts – price per m² | ≈ 940 USD |
Real estate transactions are highly regulated, and a foreigner will in any case depend on an employer, an NGO, or a local partner to navigate the procedures.
Utilities, Internet, and Equipment: Hidden Costs
On paper, basic utility costs seem very low, but the reality for a connected and equipped expatriate is more nuanced.
For a standard 85 m² apartment, “official” electricity, water, and gas bills remain modest, especially based on Asmara data:
| Item | Approximate Monthly Cost (Asmara) |
|---|---|
| Electricity / Water / Heating – single person | ≈ 37.7 USD |
| Same item – family | ≈ 58.7 USD |
| Internet plan (advertised 50 Mbps, much less in practice) | ≈ 27 USD |
Other sources, for the whole country, mention higher amounts for premium packages: up to $200 for a fast internet connection (60 Mbps and above), or $67 to $68 for a mobile plan with over 10 GB of data. A major constraint adds to this: telecommunications are monopolized by the public operator EriTel, national infrastructure is very limited, most connections remain at an effective 1 Mbps or less, and access is subject to heavy surveillance.
For an expatriate in Eritrea, home internet is possible but is typically characterized by slow speeds, high cost, and unreliable connectivity. Common alternatives include using cybercafés, which are few in number (about a hundred in the entire country, and less than ten in the capital Asmara), or relying on dedicated professional connections, sometimes via satellite, which remain expensive solutions.
Regarding household equipment, prices for imported appliances illustrate the premium paid for what remains “luxury” goods:
| Equipment / Service | Indicative Price in Nakfa | Approx. USD |
|---|---|---|
| 40-inch flat-screen TV | 10,000 | ≈ 667 |
| 800/900 W Microwave oven | 5,000 | ≈ 333 |
| 3 L Liquid laundry detergent | 100 | ≈ 7 |
| One hour of housekeeping | 200 | ≈ 13 |
It is therefore wise, if your employer allows it, to negotiate for an already furnished and equipped apartment, or even provided equipment (generator, water filters, etc.).
Food: Affordable Local Markets and Restaurants
On the food front, an expatriate is in for some pleasant surprises. Basic goods remain very affordable, and a number of restaurants, cafés, and bars allow for regular outings at reasonable cost.
In the city, distinguish three universes: markets and small neighborhood shops, supermarkets or better-stocked stores, and restaurants/cafés.
For some reference points:
| Food Product / Service | Approximate Price |
|---|---|
| Simple lunch with a drink in a business district | ≈ 165 ERN (≈ $11) |
| Fast-food type combo meal | 150 ERN (≈ $10) or $5.5 depending on source |
| Meal for 2 at a mid-range restaurant | ≈ $20 |
| Dinner for 2 at a “neighborhood pub” | 382 ERN (≈ $25) |
| Dinner for 2 at an Italian restaurant in “expat zone” | 915 ERN (≈ $61) |
| Cappuccino (expat zone) | 25 ERN (≈ $1.70) |
| 0.5 L Local beer at a supermarket | 23 ERN (≈ $1.50) |
| Cocktail at a club | 100 ERN (≈ $7) |
And for basic shopping, often at markets or small grocery stores:
| Product (indicative prices) | Price in Nakfa | Approx. USD |
|---|---|---|
| 1 L of whole milk | 25 | ≈ 1.69 |
| 1 dozen eggs | 72 | ≈ 4.79 |
| 1 kg of tomatoes | 25 | ≈ 1.67 |
| 1 kg of apples | 125 | ≈ 8 |
| 1 kg of potatoes | 30 | ≈ 2 |
| Bread for 2 people (per day) | 17 | ≈ 1.13 |
| 2 L of soda like Coca-Cola | 20 | ≈ 1.33 |
| Bottle of “decent” wine | 275 | ≈ 18 |
Local cuisine relies heavily on injera – a large fermented flatbread – accompanied by spicy stews. Meals are generally shared communally, eaten by hand, using only the right hand. Accepting the food and drink offered to you, even in small quantities, is essential to avoid offense.
The Eritrean capital, Asmara, retains the legacy of Italian colonization through a unique gastronomic offering. You can find many cafés serving espresso, ice cream parlors, pizzerias, and trattorias. These establishments offer a surprising fusion between classic Italian dishes, like pasta, and the use of local spices, creating a characteristic hybrid cuisine unique to the city.
Transportation, Permits, and Travel
Transportation is one of the most sensitive aspects for an expatriate. The only international airport is in Asmara, connected mainly to a few regional cities (Riyadh, Cairo, Jeddah, etc.), and to hubs by airlines like Ethiopian Airlines or KLM depending on the season.
On the ground, Asmara remains a compact city, pleasant to explore on foot or by bicycle. The urban bus network (large red buses, white minibuses) is relatively dense, inexpensive, but often crowded and uncomfortable. Taxis, numerous and recognizable, operate without meters: you must agree on the fare before the ride.
Overview of indicative prices to assess the necessary budget for a stay in Eritrea, particularly in its capital.
Average costs in the country are generally modest, allowing for an economical stay.
Indicative prices in Asmara also suggest reasonable daily expenses.
| Transport Service | Approximate Cost |
|---|---|
| Urban bus ticket (national average) | ≈ $0.21 |
| Monthly bus pass | ≈ $8 |
| Bus ticket Asmara | ≈ $0.33 |
| Monthly pass Asmara | ≈ $12.70 |
| Taxi ride 1 mile | ≈ $0.97 |
| Taxi 8 km in Asmara | ≈ $6 |
| Taxi waiting 1 hour | ≈ $10 |
| Gasoline 1 L | ≈ 30 ERN (≈ $2) |
Gasoline remains much more expensive than in the United States (over 130% more according to some comparisons), making intensive car use costly. Main roads between a few major cities are paved, but most routes outside urban centers are in poor condition, poorly marked, with livestock on the roadway and very little lighting. During the rainy season, some sections become almost impassable.
For any travel over 25 km outside the capital Asmara, foreigners must obtain a travel permit. The application is usually made to the Ministry of Tourism for visitors, or to the relevant authorities for residents (local zoba, Ministry of Defense, etc.). These authorizations are not automatic, can take several days to be issued, and may impose restrictions on the route or modes of transport, such as prohibiting the use of public transport for certain journeys.
Finally, land borders are politically sensitive and often completely closed (notably with Ethiopia and Sudan), and some areas are still mined. For an expatriate, the idea of an impromptu road trip is therefore out of the question.
Telecommunications and Internet: A Very Limited Environment
One of the most disorienting points for an expatriate accustomed to fiber and 4G lies in the extreme weakness of the digital infrastructure.
Holds the monopoly on fixed-line, mobile telephony, and internet access. The mobile network operates essentially on 2G, with 3G and 4G being virtually absent for the general public. The country has no submarine cable connections, relying on expensive microwave and satellite links. The state strictly controls the sector, with very limited access to broadband.
National operator EriTel
Some realities to factor in:
Less than 2% of households in North Korea have home internet access.
Under these conditions, an expatriate who plans to work remotely, have regular video conferences, or manage heavy data flows must be very realistic: without a dedicated and expensive infrastructure set up by the employer (VSAT, leased line), usage will remain basic (email, text messaging, a few simple web pages).
Healthcare: Structure, Limitations, and Strategy for Expatriates
The Eritrean healthcare system is structured at three levels: primary healthcare centers, regional (zoba) hospitals, and national referral hospitals. The network is relatively dense for basic care and prevention, with a particular focus on maternal and child health. Mortality indicators have improved in recent decades.
Care standards, especially outside the capital Asmara, are lower than those in Europe or North America. The system suffers from a lack of specialists, heavy equipment, and medications. Advanced treatments (complex cancers, major cardiac pathologies, cutting-edge neurology, sophisticated dialysis, etc.) are not available locally.
In Asmara, a few public hospitals and private clinics provide a reasonable level of care for common conditions:
– National referral hospitals (Orotta, Halibet…).
– General and specialized hospitals (obstetrics, ophthalmology, etc.).
– A few private clinics and medical centers, quicker and slightly better equipped, but still far from Western standards.
The maximum cost in dollars for a private medical consultation for an expatriate in Vietnam.
For an expatriate, the key is international health insurance, with:
– Coverage for routine medical care in Eritrea.
– Guarantees for medical evacuation to a better-equipped country (Nairobi, Addis Ababa, Europe, Middle East) in case of a serious problem.
– Repatriation insurance.
Without this coverage, a serious incident can quickly become critical, as local options are quickly exhausted.
Finally, prevention is crucial: up-to-date vaccinations (hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus, possibly rabies and meningitis depending on profile), anti-malarial treatment if you must stay in lowland areas at risk of malaria, water hygiene (tap water is not potable), and food caution.
Work, Salaries, and Legal Framework
For a salaried expatriate, opportunities are found mainly in:
– International NGOs and UN agencies.
– Certain foreign companies involved in the mining, agricultural, or infrastructure sectors.
– Diplomatic institutions.
– Teaching at international schools (notably Asmara International Community School).
Eritrean labor legislation (Proclamation 118/2001) establishes a relatively classic framework on paper: 8-hour workday, 48-hour week, overtime paid with a premium, entitlement to progressive annual leave (at least 14 days, up to 35 days based on seniority), sick leave and maternity leave, severance pay under certain conditions.
The average local monthly salary is about 120 dollars, well below Western standards.
From a tax perspective, the country applies a relatively low income tax (a flat rate of around 2% for some profiles mentioned in the texts), but the reality of taxation, notably the famous “2% tax” on diaspora income, is complex and highly political. It is essential to discuss these aspects with your employer before signing a contract and to check the potential impact on your own tax situation (country of origin).
Work and residence permit procedures are mainly managed by the employer with the authorities. The process can be lengthy, and non-compliance with the rules carries risks of detention or expulsion. For self-employed individuals, possibilities are very limited: setting up a business by a foreigner, obtaining a freelance activity or a “digital nomad” status in the Western sense do not correspond to the country’s current practice.
Banking, Money, and Currency Exchange
The Eritrean economy operates essentially on cash. The local currency is the nakfa (ERN). There is no operational ATM network for foreign cards, and international bank cards are practically not accepted. This means an expatriate must:
For your financial transactions in Eritrea, it is advisable to arrive with foreign currency (recent USD or euros) to exchange at authorized Himbol offices, banks, or authorized hotels. It is imperative to carefully keep all exchange receipts and purchase receipts, as they will need to be presented upon departure. Strictly respect the strict regulations: any amount over $10,000 (or equivalent) must be declared upon entry, and it is forbidden to leave with more than 1,000 nakfa. You will also have to justify the use of foreign currency when you depart.
Opening a local bank account is possible for a resident expatriate but requires a visa, passport, and most often a letter of support from a ministry or employer. Loans remain, according to accounts, difficult for foreigners to access.
Education and Family Life
For an expatriate family with school-age children, Asmara offers a major advantage: the Asmara International Community School (AICS). It is a non-profit international school, from kindergarten to high school, following Anglophone curricula (International Primary Curriculum, International Middle Years Curriculum, then the International Baccalaureate in high school). The school welcomes about a hundred students of many nationalities, with a Western pedagogical approach.
Annual tuition fees for elementary and secondary levels exceed $14,000, not including registration fees.
Local nurseries and kindergartens exist, often at negligible cost for an expatriate (a few dozen dollars per month), but with widely varying standards of supervision, safety, and pedagogy.
Regarding pediatric healthcare, facilities in Asmara can manage common illnesses, basic vaccinations, and simple emergencies. For more serious conditions or specialized follow-up, again, evacuation to a better-equipped neighboring country remains the norm for expatriates.
Daily Life, Culture, and Social Codes
Beyond the numbers, living in Eritrea is immersing yourself in a culture where sociability and rituals hold a central place.
Politeness is marked by lengthy greetings, sometimes prolonged handshakes, and honorific titles (Ato for men, Weizero for women) in formal contexts. Elders are greeted first, one listens without interrupting, and displaying impatience or anger is avoided. Direct and confrontational conversations, especially in public, are not valued; communication remains rather indirect to preserve harmony.
Sharing a meal is an important act and systematically refusing an offer can be poorly received. Accepting a piece of food directly from the host’s hand (gursha) is a sign of respect and friendship. The coffee ceremony (jebena buna), with the roasting of beans and three successive rounds of cups, can last over an hour and structures social life. For an expatriate, accepting these invitations and being available for them is essential for integration.
Regarding dress code, modesty is key: shoulders and knees covered, loose clothing, especially outside Asmara and in places of worship. Public displays of affection between men and women are discreet, while signs of friendship between people of the same sex (holding hands, for example) are common and devoid of romantic connotation.
LGBTQ+ identities are not socially or legally accepted. Homosexual relations are penalized by law, potentially leading to prison sentences, and there are no support structures. An expatriate concerned by this should be clearly aware before considering a move.
Safety, Freedom, and Constraints
Asmara is often described as one of the safest capitals in the developing world in terms of street crime. Pickpocketing exists, as everywhere, but the level of assault remains relatively low. Nights are generally calm, and the city can be explored on foot with a sense of safety superior to other major African cities.
Travel outside Asmara requires permits, border areas are militarized, and some rural sectors are mined. The authorities have broad discretionary power for detentions and interrogations, and denials of consular access to foreign nationals have been reported by embassies.
For an expatriate, this means it is essential to:
To avoid any incident in a strict-regime country, it is imperative to stay away from political discussions, especially concerning the regime, human rights, or the military. Strictly avoid photographing official buildings, military personnel, or sensitive installations, as even a simple street photo with a flag or checkpoint in the background can be problematic. Scrupulously respect internal travel permits and their geographical limits. Always carry identification on you, at minimum a copy of your passport. Finally, to understand the unspoken limits and “no-go” areas, consistently refer to your employer, your embassy, or expatriate networks like InterNations.
Limited access to independent information, the absence of a free press, surveillance of communications (internet, phone), and control over NGOs add a layer of constraints. Some people will find this suffocating, others will tolerate it better, but in any case, one must be aware of it.
Networks, Leisure, and the Expat Community
Despite the restrictions, Asmara offers a real social life. The cafés along Independence Avenue, the few bars and restaurants, clubs (diving, art, sports), and the small expatriate community constitute an active relational network.
Networks like InterNations organize regular meetups for expatriates, often in hotels or cafés favored by foreigners. For activities, diving clubs operate around the reefs and wrecks of the Red Sea, notably around the Dahlak Islands or from beach hotels. In the city, architecture enthusiasts can discover a unique heritage, with futuristic-designed gas stations, Art Deco-style cinemas, and modernist cathedrals.
The climate, especially in the highlands, is well-suited for urban walks, cycling, and some guided hikes. One simply must stay in areas recognized as safe, particularly due to mines and border instability.
Should You Move to Eritrea as an Expatriate?
For a development worker, an NGO manager, a diplomat, or a specialist seconded to a well-structured project, Eritrea can offer a unique combination: a welcoming and tight-knit society, a pleasant and safe capital, a moderate cost of living, a rich and singular culture. To these assets is added a strong professional experience, within a country that remains largely unknown to the general public.
In return, you must accept several non-negotiable realities:
The country is characterized by very restricted freedom of expression and omnipresent surveillance. Internet access is rare, slow, and expensive, making it unsuitable for a digital nomad lifestyle. Travel within the country is subject to significant constraints. Healthcare services are limited, requiring the capacity for evacuation in case of serious problems. Finally, the country is relatively isolated in its region, with few air connections and closed land borders.
For those considering Eritrea, the key is to arrive with a solid project, a reliable employer, a suitable package (salary in hard currency, housing, full insurance, children’s schooling), and good mental preparation to live in an environment very different from liberal democracies.
Those who accept these conditions often discover a country where hospitality is not an empty word, where social bonds are strong, where sharing a coffee or a plate of injera quickly becomes a daily ritual, and where you learn as much about yourself as about the reality of a singular state on the shores of the Red Sea.
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Cyril Jarnias is an independent expert in international wealth management with over 20 years of experience. As an expatriate himself, he is dedicated to helping individuals and business leaders build, protect, and pass on their wealth with complete peace of mind.
On his website, cyriljarnias.com, he shares his expertise on international real estate, offshore company formation, and expatriation.
Thanks to his expertise, he offers sound advice to optimize his clients' wealth management. Cyril Jarnias is also recognized for his appearances in many prestigious media outlets such as BFM Business, les Français de l’étranger, Le Figaro, Les Echos, and Mieux vivre votre argent, where he shares his knowledge and know-how in wealth management.
